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Old 02-06-2020, 06:44 PM   #1
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T-2570 just bought, getting ready for Spring

As I said in my "HOWDY" post on the Introduce yourself forum, this is my 2nd Sunline with almost a 25 year gap. My 1st one was a Joint purchase with my parents a 1984 T-2261 that we had for about 10 years. Parents at the time gave up trailering and as I had no tow vehicle we sold it. Now that the kids are grown and gone, and I'm a Widower, my Girlfriend and I decided my 1994 Gulfstream 18ft was too small with my dog along and she wanted something larger. So looked around and decided on a 03 Solaris 25ft T2570. She loves the layout, and as she loves to cook the double doors allow me to go outside and back without getting in her way. (Chauvanist pig that I am....). I've had to pull some stuff off the Gulfstream before I sell it (like the new tires I got for it last fall (same size 205-75-R15 Load Range E x5), recertified FULL Gas bottles, the Dual BAL 30" stabilizer jacks, The spare tire carrier, and the year old battery). These all go on the Sunline, to make my life simpler. As I'm now using a F-350 King Ranch (2004) 6.0L on the Sunline vs. a 2002 S-10 Quad cab(BIG JUMP!) 4.3L on the Gulfstream, I had to get a new mount bar for the Reese EQ Hitch so the Sunline would ride level vs. the Snooty look (Nose high). New Breakaway switch, New Exterior Door Latches with Matching Locks, Fridge Vent Cover, New Shore Power Plug (Old one partially melted the Hot side around the lug from extended use) New bulbs.



I have to remove a few of the interior light to disassemble the switches (corrosion) for cleaning. The roof will need some sealer, although it's leak free. A few of the window crank handles are worn and spin on the shafts (typical). Fridge works quite well (I had a spare DINOSAUR board for the 2611 in the Gulfstream that works with the 2652 Dometic in the T-2570 and installed it prophylactically). Water HAS NOT BEEN tested due to Temps. It got to 65 Saturday so I tested the A/C. Yep, Freeze the B***s off a Brass Monkey. Furnace works Well although it vibrates (gotta figure out if the the fan threw a weight or if there is a dead critter on the wheel).



Brakes work well (they feel like I've got a BIG anchor out dragging, controller set at middle of adjustment (Reese Brakeman set to 3.5)) from the gitgo in Cape May all the way to North of Baltimore, so I doubt there's much if any wrong with them, but have to check them out and fix if necessary BEFORE Md. State Inspection.



Last to do is to move most of the Stuff from the Gulfstream to the Sunline, fuel up and go to a local state park for a test run, then maybe a trip to New England before it gets too hot.



After it got a Bath Tuesday





On way to NEW HOME.
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Old 02-07-2020, 02:32 PM   #2
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Congrats on the new sunny!!

You for sure now have enough truck! That's great!

You have her all cleaned up looking great.

Spring can't get here fast enough. Last week we had high 50's and nice, now we are back to frozen ice yuk and some light snow. This 3 seasons in a week thing is getting old. The body does not adjust as well to full on and off season
as good as it use to.

Have fun with the new camper this season. And we are looking forward to hearing and seeing (think pics) your Sunline adventures.

John
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Old 02-11-2020, 02:29 PM   #3
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Thanks John. Been busier than a long tailed cat in a room full of Rockin Chairs. Finally Warmed up enugh to put the Solaris Decals on the sides. I had the old right side location ok, but nothing on the Left side, so I eyeballed it. Pretty close. Next to get the big decals for the front & Back. Swap tires with the Old trailer (brand new Load "E" rated Goodyears vs. 5 year old Maxxis). Check the brakes while I'm at it. Raining all week so it's on hold until it clears. But I can do all the stuff inside I need to do.



When will the "FUN" stop??................................NEVER!!!!!
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Old 02-13-2020, 01:17 PM   #4
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We bought an 03 2570 last year. Great rig! We're working on fixing it up as well. Good luck with yours!
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Old 02-17-2020, 03:53 AM   #5
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Thanks 2 beagles. Left a window open Thursday night and In Flew Enza. Never felt so helpless in my life (except when the quacks decided I needed a plumbing overhaul and cracked my chest to do it.) 3 days of non stop 24-7 TCM, trying to keep stuff down or IN (believe me "depends are your friend when you have monteczuma's revenge".) Swallow your pride guys and save yourself a lot of grief from SWMBO(She who MUST be obeyed) CinChouse, CinCCivlant, or CinCCivPAC (respectively Commander in Chief HOUSE, CinC Civilian Atlantic & CinC Civ Pacific). (yeah, I'm 4th Gen Navy)


Feeling somewhat better, so I'm putting myself on the the restricted duty list. Window crank handles came in this weekend, so they can go on. Possibly fix the window gasket on the drivers side bedroom window (looks like it came out of track & bunched up inside Will look and see.) Gonna check the weather report and see how "WARM" (above 50*F)it's gonna get. Personnally I seriously doubt it'll hit much past 40, but this is Md. Weather here ain't no more weird the SoCal, just different. Just checked todays weather. High of 49, cloudy. Well, THAT sucks!


Guess I can wait on a couple things that need doing for warmer weather.



Time to lay down for a bit. This typing has drug me out.



Larry
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Old 02-18-2020, 11:22 AM   #6
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Got all the Jalousie windows opened (new handles) and checked the lower surround gaskets. The only one doesn't need replacing due to warpage and pinching is the kitchen window, although it's shrunk lengthwise 1.5", so it'll get replaced too. Now to find the correct Vinyl gasket in about 25'.


What was on SUNLINE's mind when they designed the RIVETED arm pivots on the Rockguard. Plus the 2 1/2's of the arms are longer than needed even to flip it over the top. (I'll maybe remedy this later!)


Applied the LARGE SUNLINE Decal to the RockGuard, but got the Horizontal about 2 " to the Left after carefully marking the upper edge and lower edge of rockguard and the same places on the top layer of the decal assy. But I DIDN'T get any bubbles or lines in the decal. a 3rd arm with a Hairdryer blowing hot air on the rockguard helped as it was about 50*F y'day. (Probably why I have pneumonia now on top of the Flu).



The Solaris Decals on the Sides went better as they were smaller and I had perimeter marks (pencil). Hairdryer worked well in getting aluminimum warmed up.



It's getting there but being sick, SUCKS (your favorite expletive).
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Old 02-24-2020, 08:02 PM   #7
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Finally getting over the Flu. Put new knobs on all the window winders, bottom bar retainers for most all of the horizontal blinds.



One thing I did do a couple weeks ago was to check at my local RV Dealer (ChesacoRV who sold my parents and me the 1984 T-2261) to see if they had any hand grab rails of the type Sunline used in '03. Turns out they didn't carry any in inventory but the parts guy gave me one off a crate that parts came in. Exact same as the original. Told me to come back in a week or so and he'd probably have some more. So today I went down and he gave me 2 more. HOT DAMN!! This is something that anyone who needs a Handrail and wants the original style 1st. Check with your local dealer and see if they get them as handles on pallets or crates. If they throw them away, ask them for a few. They may give them to you or might charge a buck or 3 for them. Either way it's a win-win.



The Made in America decal is on, and I took pics of the rest of the small decals, measured them and sent the pics to the seller who we got the Made in America decals from. Waiting on an estimate.


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Old 02-25-2020, 07:57 AM   #8
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Hi Larry,

The new decal looks great! Thanks for sharing.

You scored on the grab handle. I have heard from Sunline Fan that he had seen this handle on shipping crates to dealers before. Good to know the practice is more wide spread.

Curious, what exactly is the purpose of the grab handle on the shipping create?
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Old 02-25-2020, 09:57 AM   #9
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Just off the top of my head I'd think......Flat bottom pallet or crate with a top. Handles to remove top straight up.
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Old 02-25-2020, 10:54 PM   #10
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Quote:
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Curious, what exactly is the purpose of the grab handle on the shipping create?
Just to be able to lift the crates easier, and move them around. They usually put them on heavy parts. The handles are cheap when bought in bulk (say like 50 cents each), so it's cheap insurance to make sure the parts are handled with more care.
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Old 03-06-2020, 10:02 AM   #11
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replaced the outer locker catches (plastic flip up type), and ordered some SPST rocker switches for the interior lights. Filled the gas bottles, and retested all appliances (except the water htr....too cold to ad wtr). New electric tongue jack ordered (5000# size). still waiting on the sign shop to give me an estimate on the various small decals (gas bottles, wheel lug warning, Aux.-SHWR, Rear bumper loading, and replacement RVIA sticker) plus a 1/3 size front rockguard style decal for spare tire cover. Battery charged and put on rig. The P.O. replaced the awning and installed the pull strap on the same side of the roller as the Awning itself. Got to fix that. And seal the top. It had a couple small holes/tears(<1/4"), I filled with silicone caulk and spread it 2" around the split's. Still have to swap the New goodyear's from the Innsbruck to the sunline. When it gets warmer..... and get all done, it goes for Md. Safety inspection, then tags.
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Old 03-08-2020, 09:13 PM   #12
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Got the Electric Tongue jack on after some surgery to the lower cross piece hole that was ALMOST the same size as the jack post. Made some 1/4" radial cuts and then cut out a circle connecting the cuts. Got the clearance I needed.



Battery was almost dead. Put it on the charger with the battery disconnected. Meanwhile I checked the frame grounds, pulled all 4(separate grounds on the frame), wire brushed, dremeled the frame around all the screws, and put in new stainless screws. Bonded all the grounds together with 6 ga solid. No Change in condition at the converter or battery charging condition.



Converter is shot. With shore power off and the battery connected the CO detector beeps once then craps out. Turn on one light and it blinks 3-4 times and dies out.

Plug in shore power and I get lights and other 12V stuff. Battery voltage from charger section is 12.2V. LED starts RED for a second, then goes green when I turn on the breaker.

As it's a CS6000 it's a 60A so a new converter is in the works. Probably a
Boondocker 4 Stage Power Center 60 Amp (BD 1260PC) from Bestconverter.com

Does anyone know if the breakers are interchangeable? Hate to have to buy breakers if the originals are workable in the new converter.





Larry
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Old 03-10-2020, 07:34 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Torskdoc423 View Post

Plug in shore power and I get lights and other 12V stuff. Battery voltage from charger section is 12.2V. LED starts RED for a second, then goes green when I turn on the breaker.

As it's a CS6000 it's a 60A so a new converter is in the works. Probably a
Boondocker 4 Stage Power Center 60 Amp (BD 1260PC) from Bestconverter.com

Does anyone know if the breakers are interchangeable? Hate to have to buy breakers if the originals are workable in the new converter.
I had the CS6000 in my T310SR. The converter itself died but the fuse panel and the AC breakers were all good. I gutted the converter and added a Progressive Dynamics converter, still made in the USA and a very good 3 stage converter with desulfate mode.

Here is a post on it. https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...rade-8888.html

At that time back in 2009, PD did not make a drop in replacement converter, only standalone units. Since then, they now sell replacements converters (4600 series) for when other brands die. See here on the Best Converter site
http://www.bestconverter.com/PD4655V...ant_p_352.html

On the PD site https://www.progressivedyn.com/rv/po...specifications

You just need to check the dimensions that it fits and can get good airflow. We had a member change his American Enterprise converter with the PD 4600 series not long ago, I'll see if I can hunt it down.

On the breakers and your boondocker, I am not totally sure. The American I had used Cutler Hammer breakers.

Not trying to talk you out of the Boondocker, just listing options.

If you buy a Progressive Dynamics converter, I would recommend getting it from Best Convertor. There are a lot of fake PD converters now being sold out of china. It's a scam and PD here in the states will not warrant the knock off units. Whoever you buy it from, has to be an authorized PD dealer to get the warranty.
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Old 03-10-2020, 07:46 AM   #14
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I found the post I was looking for. Right club member, but wrong memory that he had an American Enterprize converter. His was a WFCO that he replaced with the Progressive Dynamics.

Here is it if interested. He had furnace issue on the same post. https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...tml#post136762
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Old 03-10-2020, 08:18 PM   #15
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John;
Spent 3 hours today doing hand over hand tracing of battery wiring. Grounds were mostly corroded and dirty. Wire brushes, DeOxit contact cleaner, and a Dremel wheel on the frame, cleaned them up. Consolidated 4 grounds to 2 and bonded them together with a piece of 8ga Romex. Now Zero ohms.

Voltage at the battery 12.7vdc. Then at the upside of the 30A circuit breaker 12.7VDC. Down side of breaker ZERO Volts (a few millivolts indicated) with the battery fuses at the panel pulled and shore power disconnected. Replaced the Circuit breaker with a new one I had in parts bin. Now have 12VDC systems operating with NO SHORE POWER. See pics of breaker. BAD Shape. No box on the frame. Breaker and 30A battery fuse in wooden box in floor under the bed in the left side cargo area.

Noisy fans on converter opened up and given 2 drops of Zoom Turbine oil and a dab of white lithium grease. Now quiet and running fine for 6 hours. RTV Silicone bead run full perimeter of fans.

Voltage checks. Input AC Voltage 117VAC. Battery Voltage 12.7vdc. Spec Gravity in cells 1.250 adjusted for temperature. (hell of a site easier doing cell voltages on a type 27 Deep Cycle than 126 Gould Sargo type Submarine Battery cells.) But no clothing allowance for acid eaten dungarees.


Charging voltage 13.35 to 13.29vdc (over 15 minutes). After 6 hours battery charging voltage 12.8dvdc. Fans still quiet.



I'll keep the PD converter in mind. The only thing I'd need to run is 120VAC from panel about 6ft to converter (plan on mounting to a board in cargo area right next to the breaker, and wire it in there. Plenty of space for ventilation.



Pics of the offending circuit breaker. Note the corrosion/rust on the pinned side of the Bi-metal spring. The peened end is wasted and loose, with spark burning on the spring. Contacts are spot burnt. Housing had a good amount of loose rust.









Replaced all the SPST switches in the lights. No mods to lighting fixtures which surprised me (I just went from the pics of the switches and got lucky I guess.).



Last few days above 60*F and the crunched and bent window seals straightened out after putting them back in channel taping the bent and twisted sections down, then cranking the windows closed on them to straighten them out. Worked pretty good too.







Larry
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Old 03-10-2020, 09:51 PM   #16
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Quote:
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Voltage checks. Input AC Voltage 117VAC. Battery Voltage 12.7vdc. Spec Gravity in cells 1.250 adjusted for temperature. (hell of a site easier doing cell voltages on a type 27 Deep Cycle than 126 Gould Sargo type Submarine Battery cells.) But no clothing allowance for acid eaten dungarees.

Charging voltage 13.35 to 13.29vdc (over 15 minutes). After 6 hours battery charging voltage 12.8dvdc. Fans still quiet.
Hi Larry,

Good hunting on the circuit breaker and grounds. Good job! Yes, Sunline started putting the junction box on the frame header from 2004 models to 2007. Many of the ones before that were in a wooden box in the front of the camper inside. Each floor plan had it in a slightly different place.

H'mm lets compare notes. Something is not right with your converter and the voltages you saw. The older CS6000 was only a 2 mode charger,

Float mode: 13.25 VDC (milliamps of current and voltage to maintain a charged battery)
Standard charge: 13.65 VDC (enough voltage and amps to charge a battery from dead to full charge)

The voltage can be a little higher or lower but not a lot from those nominal numbers. +/-0.1 to 0.2 volts

Your converter was not doing a whole lot of anything. The 13.35 to 13.29 is only in the float area, not the charge area. I doubt very much if any amperage went into your battery. And it should never changed off that if the converter was in float mode.

Since your battery was at 12.7 VDC with no load on it from a stand alone charger, it was sitting right at 100% state of charge. Please confirm it started that way. The converter did not need to do anything.

If you were actually charging for 6 hours, the surface charge on the battery as soon as you turned off the 120 vac power to the converter, the battery should of been 13.X volts something, not 12.8 VDC. It takes 8 plus hours overnight with the battery at rest to drain off the surface charge from 13.X something back down to 12.7 vdc. A lead acid battery charging takes on a surface charge of the charging voltage when amps are going into the battery. It takes time at rest to drain off that excess surface charge.

Before this bites you out in the camp ground, I would suggest to test the converter to see if it is actually charging. Ideally, hook it to a battery that is at least drained down to 50 to say 60% state of charge. That would be 12.1 to 12.3 volts with the battery at rest. When you turn on the converter and a battery that drained, it needs to go right up to the 13.65 vdc area and will stay there for many hours, even a day or 2 depending on the size of the battery. Then it should drop down into float mode at 13.25 vdc and stay that way all the time the 120 VAC is plugged in. Never should it go back to 12.7 when you are plugged in to shore power if it working properly. If it does, that is problem 1.

You can try this to see if the converter is doing something. Unhook the battery, just take 1 battery leed off. I would pick the negative. A little safer.

Then plug the camper into shore power. This should power up the converter and you should have full DC power in the camper. Up to 60 amps if you ever wanted that much. That model converter would work without a battery.

Measure the DC voltage from the converter before turning anything on. Can do this at the battery leads unhooked or on the DC buss bar in the converter. It should be 13. 25 or higher

Turn on some lights, watch the voltage. If you are on the old 921 incandescent bulbs, each bulb being on is close to 1.4 amps. So 5 bulbs being on is 7 amps by itself. 14 amps for 10 bulbs

Turn on the furnace, that will suck some power. watch the voltage

If the voltage stays up in the 13.25 vdc or above area and all that current is coming out of the converter, then the converter is doing something. If the voltage drops like a rock, and the lights dim and furnace slows down, the converter has issues.

If I miss-understood your voltages, point it out. I was just going by what you typed.

Hope this helps.

John
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Old 03-11-2020, 05:32 AM   #17
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John;


Batttery at 100% per standalone and spec grav readings. Last charge 3 days ago so the surface charge was off it. 12.7vdc standing voltage was correct. It may have been a % or 2 down but nothing drastic.


Tripping in the converter brought it up to 13.65vdc and it did drop to 13.29V within 15-20 minutes. I probably misread the meter when I checked last. Long Day and we ain't getting any younger . Gotta start writing down stuff rather than trying to remember it.


Lights did brighten up when converter tripped in. I'll do some load testing on the battery today. I have a 50A carbon pile I can put on the battery and see how it drains and recovers (uncover weak cells, but I don't think there is any as it's less than a year old). Then trip in the converter and see what the voltages are at 1 hour intervals with and without loads.



I keep the stand-alone charger in the trailer for emergencies anyway, (have always carried a charger in my trailers just in case). Plus the 3800watt Genset in the truck. Although with the height of the 350, I may need one of those 1 ton winch cranes now to lift it in.......


It's been sitting on the converter overnight so I'll get some initial voltages, and go from there.



Larry
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Old 03-11-2020, 07:54 AM   #18
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Voltage in 2nd para above should be 13.35 NOT 13.65.



I just spent 2 hours in the trailer. Tripped out the converter(threw the breaker to it), and let the battery sit 30 min. Voltage on battery 13.34VDC.



Turned on all lights (19 bulbs x 1.4A = 26.6A) and fired up the Furnace. With lights on voltage dropped to 12.04VDC and stabilized. With Furnace on also, Voltage dropped to 11.87V (figure about 5A?). Left all on for 30 minutes. End Battery voltage on load 11.82VDC. Recovery to 12.25v in 2 minutes after load shed. Converter out of circuit still.



Cut in Converter and Voltage climbed over 5 minutes to 13.3vdc and stabilized. Check every 5 minutes for another hour. Voltage on converter did NOT climb higher than 13.32VDC. Considering battery state, it's probably a good bet that converter won't trip into high gear until I load battery for a few hours. It's in the 40's so voltages are probably ok adjusting for temps (spec grav I didn't do on cells). I'll leave a couple lights on during the day with the converter off (trip the breaker to it), and recheck tonight. But so far I can live with it and do a heavy charge with the standalone if needed or plug in the truck and charge off it.



I'll get back with long term load voltages this evening.



Larry
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Old 03-11-2020, 03:30 PM   #19
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1005Hrs.
Tripped out converter. Battery voltage stabilized @ 13.28vdc from 13.30vdc on converter after 5 minutes.

With converter out of circuit, and only battery online, turned on 11 type 921 bulbs for a total load of approx 15.4A. Load on for 4Hrs.

With Converter in, and Battery disconnected, and all 12V lighting on (21 lamps all 921), voltage stayed abov 12.6vdc. If I had a schematic of the board I could probably figure out the fault, and if the individual part available, just fix it myself.

1405
Battery voltage under load(no converter)........... 10.56vdc

Battery recovery after 5 minutes, off converter....... 12.05vdc

Cut in converter. Initial voltage........ ramped up to 12.65vdc @ battery after 30 seconds.

After 5 minutes on converter............ 12.69vdc @ battery
After 30 min. on Conv.....................12.75vdc @ battery


1700
No load since 1400 strictly on charge.

Battery Voltage (NO LOAD) Converter connected.......13.16vdc

Battery Voltage (NO LOAD) Converter DISCONNECTED......13.01vdc

Looks like the float section is probably working, but the main charger is kaput! When I physically disconnect the battery I get near ZERO VOLTS at the leads to the converter. Which to me seems like there is a load sensor somewhere in the circuit. I'll do some serious looking at new converters. Probably after we get back from Az, Ca, Mt trip at the end of the month. I like this one, mainly for the boost voltage and the desulfation modes. http://www.bestconverter.com/PD-9260...er-_p_618.html
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Old 03-11-2020, 10:20 PM   #20
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I agree, the float might be doing something, but the charge mode is not working.

The PD 9260C is what I have. It is made as a stand alone unit. Odds are high the case size will not fit inside your old converter. Which is why I mounted it separate from the converter housing and reused the old fuse strip and breakers.

The 4600 series has the boost charge and desulfation too. If it would fit in the converter housing? I'm not sure.

Do you have room to mount a stand alone converter and runs cables to the converter bus?

Loads on in the camper. Yes, there are several in your 2003 vintage Sunline that can be on.

The LP detector is hard wired. It is on all the time unless the battery is unhooked.

The antenna booster may be left on. This has a switch but often gets left on.

The display on the radio is using power, a small amount but still a drain.

The Dometic fridge may have the option of "Climate control" This is a DC heat strip that warms the gasket area of the freezer door so the door will not freeze shut in humid conditions. This even can be powered up with the fridge being turned off. There is an on/off switch for it and the only way to shut it off. The switch is in the door gasket area of the freezer up on the top. Not all Dometic's have this heat strip, but some 2003 and many 2004 model years did. There may be other years too that had it, but I know of the 03/04's potentially have it.

Starting in the 2004 model year, Sunline put battery disconnects on the frame header to shut the battery off when not needing it. The pre 2004's unless a prior owner installed a disconnect, you have to unhook the battery to stop the voltage drain of the above items, even the LP detector would drain a battery down over a week or two.

John
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Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

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