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Old 07-15-2022, 07:58 AM   #1
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Rear exterior damage issue

Hi all,

We've had our 1992 T-1700 approximately one year and I have a question about some exterior damage on the back driver side. Just above the rear bumper on the driver side corner, behind the stabilizer, I had noticed the bottom two or three pieces of aluminum paneling were misshaped, ie. when a soda can is bent and then straightened, it doesn't return to 100% of it's original shape. I didn't think much of it because it's a 30 year old camper.

One time camping, the previous owner accidently left the rear driver stabilizer down when leaving a site, it now has a good bend in it and comes down at a rearward angle, but it works. I definitely did not connect the panels and stabilizer as being a related issue.

This past weekend we were camping and the camper was leveled. I noticed the misshaped panels were now bucking up and out and it looked like a small fender bender. I forgot to take pictures. When we left the camp site, I inspected again and the buckling fender bender look was gone, the misshaped panels were all that was left.

So it appears we're having an issue with this back stabilizer or bumper causing damage to the exterior paneling. It looks as though the rear part of the frame, the piece pointing rearward just before being welded to the bumper, is being driven upwards into the bottom row of paneling when the stabilizer is used. It doesn't appear that the frame is bent but I cannot figure out why this is happening and how to fix this. I want to repair the panels but I need to correct the route issue first.

Any thoughts would be great. I apologize for the winded explanation.
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Old 07-15-2022, 06:29 PM   #2
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Hi,

From your description, this siding buckling is happening due to water-damaged wall studs, in the back wall, and or on the left side wall. And maybe even the floor in some part.

I have found that the frames of the smaller campers are very light duty by themselves. Meaning if there is no mechanically sound floor system with floor joists and plywood or walls bolted to the top of the steel frame, the raw frame by itself is very flexible. To the point of being shockingly flexible.

The reality is, that the floor system and the walls make the frame more rigid. When the walls or the floor become weakened, (by water damage or other means,) the frame is no longer as rigid as it was when the walls and floor are mechanically sound.

If the frame of the camper is being lifted by a stabilizer jack, the siding is being rippled, then the walls are not holding. The walls should move up with the frame, not the siding buckle that is stapled to the walls. Or what was left of the wall.

This post is of one of the campers I restored. This link will drop you into the middle of the post showing hanging 17# of paint cans on the back bumper area, the frame can deflect down 1/8" with no floor or walls on top of the frame. Just think what so 200# guy does standing there. The whole frame became much stronger once the new floor and walls were installed.
https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...tml#post151090

Look along the back wall siding on the very bottom. There should be a series of screws about every 8 to 10" apart that hold the bottom piece of siding on. If you unscrew those screws and the threads are rusted or have goo on them, water damage is in that back wall. Remove each one along the back side and place them on the bumper so you know what hole they came out of. Take a picture so you recall where the worsts ones are.

These screws, if you see rusted heads, those screws rusted from the inside out having been in wet wood for a long period of time. Not all rusted thread screws make it to rusting the head stage, but if they are rusted, you can tell water damage is in that wall at some level.


If you want to stop the siding sagging, you will have to confirm you have water damage and repair that damage. This can most times be done from the outside of the camper and not disturbing the inside. The repair is easier with the siding off and makes for a better longer lasting repair without adding excess damage to the inside trying to get to.

If you want more help on how to take the camper apart, just ask. Many have done this.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 07-18-2022, 09:25 AM   #3
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Thank's John, this is all excellent information. I believe you are 100% correct about the structure damage based on your points.

We definitely have rusted screws on the back of the camper. I was looking at the framing inside with a flashlight (very tight and dark) and it appears the shower P trap is only inches away from the back wall. I couldn't see it clearly but my initial thought is the P trap was leaking at one point and was repaired. Maybe not winterized properly, it's in the exactly proximity to the back wall behind the damaged exterior.

I couldn't see any damaged wood framing. The flooring under the shower looks to have been replaced, or at minimum added a board of wood on top of the existing flooring. Again, very difficult to see back there but I will try to get pictures later today in hopes you can notice something that I am missing.

I was assuming I would need to remove the rear siding in order to access the framing, seems like the easiest approach. Any suggestions on replacing the siding? I have seen people use diamond plating but I am open to suggestions on other materials.

Cheers.
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Old 07-18-2022, 10:09 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CdnCamper View Post
snip...

I was assuming I would need to remove the rear siding in order to access the framing, seems like the easiest approach. Any suggestions on replacing the siding? I have seen people use diamond plating but I am open to suggestions on other materials.
Hi,

Yes, removing the siding on the bottom of the back wall will open up the wall cavity and you can see what you have. If you need help on how to remove it, ask away. The post above I linked is a place to start.

Take care when removing the staples in the siding so you can reuse them. On the damaged piece, post some pics, pending what it looks like we may have some options on how to make it usable again. If it is too far gone, yes the bottom piece and aluminum diamond plate is an option.

There are a few siding places that make a siding. Helmet Valley in CA is one option. https://www.hemetvalleyrv.net/siding-patterns/

There is someplace on the east coast that makes it too. I'll have to dig to see if I can find it.

There is Allrite, they make most anything. Cost may be the most.
https://www.all-rite.com/

Good luck and hope this helps.

John
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Old 07-19-2022, 08:27 AM   #5
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Here are some pictures for reference. Everything looks to be in okay shape. a few spots of mild water damage. I poked around and everything felt solid except behind the grey strip on the driver side beside the water main connection. That lower piece of framing would squish in slightly when I poked at it. That lower piece and perhaps some of the floor in that area may be my issue.
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Old 07-19-2022, 08:14 PM   #6
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Hi,

You have some good pics to start with.

This left rear side pic seems to show what might be 2 holes drilled into the gray siding. If these are holes, they are a leak source. Not sure why the prior owner drilled them there, maybe to let the water out.


This back side tells a story along with the pic above of the lower back wall.


Odds are high, your wall studs at the floor line are rotted to the point there is no structural strength left. And the issue also may exist in the left side rear wall up to the wheel well.


I see the actual deformed siding may be able to be flattened out enough it may be re-usable once the repair to the wood structure is done.

Assuming you want to repair this,

Start the repair by removing the left and right corner moldings which need to come off. Remove the vinyl screw cover, remove all the screws up to the top of the molding. Then using a heat gun, warm the molding to start the releasing of the old putty tape. Pull the molding with only enough force to get it to move. More heat to it will make it move easier. You may have to slide an all dulled edge stiff blade putty knife under the molding to get it started to come off. Heat and lift until it all comes off. Try not to bend the molding any more then you have to. It is easier to make it straight again if it is not over bent.

Take pics of the old putty tape on the camper and on the molding. We can point out where leaks started by the looks of that putty tape. Black area are from dirt, mold and water getting through to the inside walls. Then using plastic scrappers, scrap off all the old putty tape after you get good pics.

Remove the screws in the bottom sheet. There will be some staples on the ends under the molding, remove those staples with care to no rip the siding. Remove the bottom 2 pieces of siding and then evaluate if you need to pull off more. Each siding piece other then the very bottom is staples at the ends under the corner molding and the wall studs. When all the staples are out the siding will come out. You may have to heat gun warm the siding at the corners as there is sealing tape between the side walls and the rear sheets at the corners. Move the heat gun and do not stop in one spot or your will burn.

Odds are high the left rear wall section has wall issues also. You can remove only the bottom gray sheet and part of the white just above it back to the wheel well. The white sheet will only be unstapled up to the wheel well as a start. This will expose the bottom wall studs.

You will need to remove the left side plastic fender as there are siding staples under the fenders. And there are staples in the gray siding shot up from the bottom in about a 2" bent of piece of siding. The city water fitting and the power cord door will need to come out also, Heat gun warm just a little with the screws out, a gentle pry and they will release.

You will need a trap to cover over the back of the camper when you start into this. And it will take some time to do the repairs.

Post pics of your findings and we can help on the how to fix options you can pick from. And ask away on any questions.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 07-20-2022, 07:08 AM   #7
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Thanks again John, this is great info. I will be doing the repairs myself with a knowledgeable carpenter friend. It does not seem to be a difficult job more than time consuming and taking care to do it correctly. We really enjoy this little camper and would like to see it last another 30 years.

I will begin the repairs in Sept and post a repair log.. and ask many questions as well.
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Old 07-21-2022, 07:35 AM   #8
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OK sounds good. Have a fun camping season. We will be here for questions when you get to it.
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