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Old 05-21-2011, 04:14 PM   #1
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Question Please Help: Refrigerator won't run on DC power/Gas

I have a 2005 Sunline Solaris T-2363. When the refrigerator is plugged into AC power and set to run on gas it works fine. But when it is running on DC power the gas won't ignite. I checked the battery charge and it seems good. Any other ideas or suggestions?
Thanks for your help!!!
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Old 05-21-2011, 06:00 PM   #2
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There are buttons above the refrigerator...is it set for propane? Both buttons should be in - shut off the electric to the trailer and see if the refrigerator goes on.
Make sure you have propane and purge your lines.....most of us get the propane thru to the stove and then most of the other appliances will light.

Let us know how you make out!
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Old 05-21-2011, 07:35 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarknShana View Post
... When the refrigerator is plugged into AC power and set to run on gas it works fine. ...
Do you mean the gas ignites and fridge runs on gas while the AC is connected?

I just tested mine today so here is my routine. Remove the outside cover next to the door. Set the right button for "gas only", push the left switch to "on", stick head out the door and you will hear the gas solenoid "thunk" followed by the igniter going "tic" about once a second until the burner lights OR it times out and the "check" light comes on. Since it was the first time this season it takes time to purge the air and didn't light untill I turned it off then repeated the proceedure, as usual. Sometimes it takes 3 tries. All the fridge controls run off 12 volts so if the gas lights when on AC but not battery alone then the battery voltage may be too low.
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Old 05-21-2011, 07:56 PM   #4
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Tell us more about the "won't ignite"?

Since the fridge works on electric then that says a lot as all the safeties and the control board are at least 1/2 working.

Have you had the camper a while and it has in the past worked on gas mode? Or is this the 1st time you have tried it on gas mode?

When you go into gas mode tell us what happens if you are outside listening near the outside fridge vent? If the fridge is calling for cooling and you just start it on gas mode after about 45 seconds you can hear a faint clunk of the gas valve opening and it should start clicking like snap, snap snap. After so many seconds of trying and it does not light it shuts down the gas valve, waits to clear any gas and then try's again. After 3 try's of no lighting it goes out on safety and a fault light will appear inside up on the control board.

Here is an excerpt from the Dometic. Note gas mode can be you forced it into gas mode or the AC lost power and automatically went in gas operation when the AC power goes out.

Quote:
Dometic says

When operating in the GAS mode, the AUTO mode indicator lamp (A) will be off. This mode provides LP gas operation only. The control system will activate the ignition system and will make three attempts to light the burner for a period of approximately 45 seconds with two minutes a period of approximately 45 seconds with two minutes (purge) interval after each trial. If unsuccessful, the CHECK indicator lamp (B) will illuminate.

To restart GAS operation, press the main power ON/OFF button (1) to the OFF and then ON position. The control system will attempt a new ignition sequence. If the refrigerator has not been used for a long time or the LP tanks have just been refilled, air may be trapped in the supply lines. To purge the air from the lines may require resetting the main power ON/OFF button (1) three or four times. If repeated attempts fail to start the LP gas operation, check to make sure that the LP gas supply tanks are not empty and all manual shutoff valves in the lines are turned on.
As Nana stated if the LP lines need to be purged. Make sure the stove top lights and start the furnace as the furnace draws the most LP. If it lights then shut if down and try the fridge. It may take a few attempts to purge out the air to the fridge line as the fridge uses so little gas.

If you are not getting any sparking what so ever or you have gone thru 3 to 4 safeties time outs then let us know and we have to start digging deeper.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 05-21-2011, 08:06 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarknShana View Post
I have a 2005 Sunline Solaris T-2363. When the refrigerator is plugged into AC power and set to run on gas it works fine. But when it is running on DC power the gas won't ignite. I checked the battery charge and it seems good. Any other ideas or suggestions?
Thanks for your help!!!
H'mm, after seeing Genes note, he was posting as I was typing, tell us if it does indeed run on gas when plugged into AC shore power.

If if it runs on gas when plugged into AC and you know for sure the flame is burning, but then when running battery only it does not fire off to click click click, tell us what voltage you have at the battery? Do you have a volt meter?

H'mm by accident do you have the heat strip in the door are turned on? It will drain you battery. They have a strip in the door gasket area to help stop excess condensation. My foggy memory remember it is a rocker type switch in the door way of the freezer or the main fridge area. I never turn it on but remember it is there to make sure it is off for sure when boondocking.

John

On Edit: Question, will the hot water heater run on gas on battery or the furnace and the furnace light? That tells a lot about the battery. The furnace especially if it will run and light. It might run but not light points to low battery.
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Old 05-30-2011, 07:23 PM   #6
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Hi Everyone

Thanks for all of the replies!!!! My dh "says" that he got it to working. Not sure how or what was wrong. But he said it only works on "auto" not "gas" setting. When the camper is unplugged from electricity and the battery on, the gas will kick in and the fridge will work but only if the "automatic" button is pushed in. It won't work when "gas" and "on" are pushed in. I'm still not convinced that it will work EVERY time, though. :-p

He said he hasn't checked to see if the water heater or furnace will work on gas and battery. Once he does I will let you know the results.

Thanks again!!

BTW, do any of you use the antenna that came with the camper? Ours doesn't seem to pick up, even with the booster on. We use a flat screen tv and I had it connected to the antenna jack and set for "air" instead of "cable" and output was selected for "tv" rather than video, etc. We raised the antenna and turned it all different directions yet we couldn't pick up one channel. My bro-in-law was in the site right next to ours. He could pick up over 23 channels using his antenna. This isn't the first time that has happened Is the antenna that sorry or could there be something wrong?

Much obliged for any suggestions.
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Old 05-30-2011, 08:11 PM   #7
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Glad to hear the refrigerator works.....

Now I did the same thing you did with the TV situation.....I found out that I needed to "scan" the channels to get anything to work......I can't explain how to do it I think you might need to try that!
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Old 05-30-2011, 08:19 PM   #8
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Thanks for the reply! I did do the channel scan. It went through all of the channels and found none Do you have any other suggestions or ideas? Thanks again!!!
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Old 05-30-2011, 08:30 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarknShana View Post

BTW, do any of you use the antenna that came with the camper? Ours doesn't seem to pick up, even with the booster on. We use a flat screen tv and I had it connected to the antenna jack and set for "air" instead of "cable" and output was selected for "tv" rather than video, etc. We raised the antenna and turned it all different directions yet we couldn't pick up one channel. My bro-in-law was in the site right next to ours. He could pick up over 23 channels using his antenna. This isn't the first time that has happened Is the antenna that sorry or could there be something wrong?

Much obliged for any suggestions.
Does you BIL have one of the Winegard Wingman antenna add-on? I put one on our fifth wheel's antenna and it helped pull the digital signals in a lot more!
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Old 05-30-2011, 09:04 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarknShana View Post
Hi Everyone



BTW, do any of you use the antenna that came with the camper? Ours doesn't seem to pick up, even with the booster on. We use a flat screen tv and I had it connected to the antenna jack and set for "air" instead of "cable" and output was selected for "tv" rather than video, etc. We raised the antenna and turned it all different directions yet we couldn't pick up one channel. My bro-in-law was in the site right next to ours. He could pick up over 23 channels using his antenna. This isn't the first time that has happened Is the antenna that sorry or could there be something wrong?

Much obliged for any suggestions.
Two things come to mind on this. Does the TV have a digital tuner to pull in the new digital signals. If not, then you will need a digital to analog converter. The second thing is, that it is possible there is a break in the coax cable between the antenna and the TV. I had this problem. When I found and fixed the broken cable, I picked up over 20 channels in our area. To test this, connect a separate cable directly between the TV and the antenna on the roof and scan for channels. If you are able to pickup several channels where you previously could not, then you have a break somewhere in the cable.
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Old 05-31-2011, 06:50 AM   #11
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The amp has to be on for signal to get to the TV:


If you're bypassing the on-board cabling, etc., the amp won't matter.
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Old 05-31-2011, 05:30 PM   #12
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The standard antenna in my 2363 works good. At home or on the road I get stations 40 miles away that are rock solid. You may have a bad conection in the coax somewhere.

FWIW, I found on my 2363 there is a back to back coax connection in the ceiling that has BNC type connectors, that could be a trouble spot. I have no idea why it is there or even if it is "normal". I found that, and a bunch of screws and wire nuts, with an inspection camera one day.
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Old 05-31-2011, 05:54 PM   #13
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Gene,

Did your antenna system work on the old non-digital TV signals? The only difference is that you connected a flatpanel TV to the antenna? Have you seen pictures on the TV when on another antenna?

If you had reception before with other TVs then my first move would be to recheck the coax used from the wall to the set. Sometimes coax will go bonkers just changing it from one set to another.

I'd double check the coax. Lifting and turning the antenna may have caused a problem or even bumping down the road. Maybe even take a length of new coax and connect straight to the antenna and the TV to see if it is a coax problem.

Frustrating I know but hopefully the answer is not so difficult.

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Old 05-31-2011, 06:41 PM   #14
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If it's an amplified antenna it needs 12 volts to the antenna you can check the coax and the power at the same time by removing the connector at the bat wing and checking for 12 volts with a meter with the switch on if it has 12 volts the cable is good and the amp in the head is probably dead. Also any TV made after May 2007 has a digital tuner should be a date sticker on the back.
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Old 06-01-2011, 05:56 PM   #15
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Quote:
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..Did your antenna system work on the old non-digital TV signals? ......
Yes, it worked with the old non-digital TV signals and I am using the same 15" flat screen but now tuned to channel 3 and being fed from my RCA converter box.

I think mainah has the right idea on how to check, see if you have the 12 volts at the end of the coax at the antenna. Also it is so easy to break that copper center at the F type connector or even to have it bend or be too short.

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Old 06-01-2011, 06:04 PM   #16
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Gene, I'd still try the TV and box on another antenna to see if it werks. Could be any component in the system, not just the antenna.

Checking the voltage sounds good to me. That should check from the wall outlet to the antenna. How to check the output of the wall outlet?

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Old 06-01-2011, 08:34 PM   #17
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WineGuard had a bad batch of antenna heads around 2004 time frame. A 2005 camper can be made in 2004 and luck may be that it "might" be one of the affected ones. I had one that went bad. There is a circuit board up in the antenna itself that died.

After replacing the wall amp and running a dedicated wire outside the camper, up on roof around in thru the door and then into the amp and then in the TV, I found the roof top unit dead. It was all that was left to change. Put a new roof unit on and now it works better then then one we have in the house.

Hope this helps

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Old 06-02-2011, 06:11 PM   #18
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The wall unit where the lighter plug is supplies the 12 volt to the antenna so if you disconnect the coax at the antenna end there should be 12 volts between the center pin and the connector nut (try no to short then together) If the antenna is amplified it won't be worth a hoot with out power and it probably is amplified you can tell by looking inside there is a "W" cut out on the bottom of the head unit that allows you to see inside if you see electrical parts it's amplified. Chances are pretty high the amp is bad they corrode inside over the years the good news the replacements come with the add on elements for the new higher frequencies.
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