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09-21-2010, 11:43 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 24
SUN #1527
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New Sunline Owner w/questions
Hi folks, I'm new to this forum and new to Sunliners. I just purchased one and will take delivery tomorrow. I've not seen the camper yet, just many pics’. Yes I know, shouldn't have done that, but there were incentives
The camper is 20'
First Question is exactly what is the year it was produced?
I hope I'm successful in including the pic, cuz then maybe you can answer my first questions. OK think it worked. Do these pics help you folks in identifying the year of manufacture?
Thanks so much & ur comments are most welcome,
Ray
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09-21-2010, 02:16 PM
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#2
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Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Michigan
Posts: 6,155
SUN #123
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Hi Ray,
Welcome!
That is a 1986 model year coach. If you can get me a VIN, I should be able to figure out if it was made in 1985 or 1986. The model year ran from roughly May/June 1985 to April/May 1986.
The specific model is a Satellite T-2153.
Jon
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2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9473.8 (as of 6/18/21)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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09-21-2010, 02:39 PM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 24
SUN #1527
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Jon, many many thanks. I'd be glad to get you a vin, but don't have it yet.
From the pics the gent sent me it looks almost unused, sure hope it looks as gud when I get to see it...........time will tell. The gent that inherited this rv told me the tires barely have the "spru's" worn off the tread, but he said the sidewalls were weather-checked and should be replaced.
You said the model was a Satellite T-2153 does the 21 mean it's a 21footer? I think he said it was a 20' but now don't remember for sure.
Do you or anyone else know of anything bad or good abt this particular model?
Tnx Agn,
Ray
Satellite T-2153
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09-21-2010, 03:17 PM
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#4
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Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Michigan
Posts: 6,155
SUN #123
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Hi Ray,
Yes, it would be roughly 21'. Technically, it is 21'10", so almost 22', but they would usually round to 21'.
You will certainly want to replace the tires, once they heat up, those weather checks won't be a good thing.
From the pics, it looks in very very good condition. I'm assuming this is also in Maine, most I've seen from Maine have been really nice looking. Weird, but true.
Most don't even have any striping left across the door(s).
There's not really anything good or bad I can think of about the model, except the usual stuff that just happens to all older Sunlines. Water leaks are a big thing, watch around the ceiling panels for any rippling or staining. You could also look around the windows too, which would indicate someone left a window open for a while sometime.
Since it hasn't had many miles, I'm guessing it hasn't had any work done on the bearings or brakes. It would be a good idea to pull the bearings, inspect and replace if necessary, and regrease as well as put some new seals on there. You probably will want to adjust the brakes if not just give them a good cleaning to get rid of some rust so they work.
Based on the rust on the LP tanks, you may have to replace those with the new style OPD. The law came in 2002 and the old style cannot be filled these days.
You might need a new battery too, depending on how it was taken care of before. Regardless though, a 24 year old battery wouldn't be much good anyway if it's original.
It's a nice thing that you don't have an awning. They take a beating in the elements, particularly the fabric, and you'd have to look at replacing it. Fortunately you don't have that to worry about.
If when you go over bumps, if the trailer squeaks, you will probably need to replace the bushings that are on the bolts that hold the leaf springs on too. This isn't critical for you to go out for the first time though, but should be taken care of relatively soon.
Appliance wise, check everything. Feel around on the bottom of the water heater tank inside to make sure it isn't cracked. If it is, it could be an indication that it wasn't winterized properly at one time. Hook a water hose up and pressurize the city fresh water system. It should only take a couple minutes of hearing it fill (it's filling the hot water tank), and then the noise should stop. If you hear it more, and granted this is when you stand right by the hose, it's not real loud, you have a leak somewhere if that noise continues. Shut the water off and find it.
The refrigerators in these like to go bad, but since it wasn't used much, it may work OK. You'll have to try it both on electric and gas. Keep in mind they take a long time to cool down, particularly on electric, but either way we're really talking like 6 hours/overnight. I like to test by putting a small paper cup of water in the freezer, if it freezes solid, it works good.
The furnace and stove/oven should work OK, if they don't, it's probably just a matter of cleaning the guts. Of course make sure you have LP too.
The water pump is another thing to check, but only after you put water in the fresh water tank. That should fill from the little door on the door side just above the front wheel. Then you can try the pump once some water is in there. Make sure the lines going on and off the pump are connected and tight, they are removable for winterizing. The switch to turn the pump on should be inside the main door, probably on the side by the refrigerator cabinet, likely near the porch light switch.
It also looks like it doesn't have AC, so that's another nice thing to not worry about having to check. Besides, if you want to add it, the newer models are much more efficient than one available aftermarket in 1986.
Your coach is at the point though where you should think about resealing the roof. There's an aluminum roof sealant paint out there like what's for mobile homes that you just brush on all the seams. Make sure to do not only the edges, but also all the vents, stink pipe vents, refrigerator vent, etc., as well as any cross-trailer seams. I seem to remember this vintage had seams that went across the trailer in the middle.
Otherwise just give it a nice wash and a good coat of wax and it should last you for many years to come!
Jon
__________________
2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9473.8 (as of 6/18/21)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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09-21-2010, 07:52 PM
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#5
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 24
SUN #1527
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Jon, Wow talk abt a comprehensive inspection plan. A couple of the things will be taken care of tomorrow before I head home. Some can wait until after I get back. I wish I could take care of replacing the tires ahead of time, but that's not possible. I'll give a close inspect and ck air pressure but thats abt all. Wheel bearings will be freshly packed.
I'm nervous abt it cuz I'll be traveling after dark.
I'm vry greatful for all ur info, and I'll put it to gud use. Also I'll stay in touch via this forum and let you know how the procedures you've outlined work out.
Thanks Again,
Ray
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09-21-2010, 08:27 PM
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#6
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Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Michigan
Posts: 6,155
SUN #123
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Ray,
How long of a drive will it be?
I'm very worried about the tires. Hopefully they aren't too bad. I have a bit of an opinion on making this work, I'm hoping others will come in and tell me if it makes sense or if it should just be disregarded.
The max pressure for those tires is either 35 or 50 PSI. I don't recall what load range those would have been, because if they are original, they would be with the old numbering/rating system. It should still show the max pressure though.
If they are true trailer tires and not aftermarket car tires then you should air them up to the max pressure. This is standard practice for all of us.
However, here's where I question myself. The lower the pressure, the more friction against the road, the more heat builds up. The higher the pressure, the less friction on the road, the less heat builds up. A common way for these tires to fail is excessive heat buildup.
With dry rotted tires, I'm not sure which would be better. My gut is telling me that if you have to travel a short distance, air them up all the way. If you are traveling a long distance, I'm tempted to suggest staying like 5 PSI less than max or so. This will allow more heat to build up, but less pressure altogether when on the road. I'm not sure if a dry rotted tire is more likely to fail from excessive heat or excessive pressure.
Again, I hope someone can clarify what would be the better thing to do.
I bought the coach before the current one with the original dry rotted tires on it, and I was very nervous about them all along. Fortunately all my trips I made with that (never went camping though) were all local on side roads, so it never got a lot of heat built up. The guy I sold it to was going to have to take it on some highway to get home (about an hour or so), so I was worried about him. He was OK with those tires because he happened to have four new ones sitting at home from the trailer he was going to sell.
Jon
__________________
2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9473.8 (as of 6/18/21)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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09-21-2010, 09:35 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 1,515
SUN #768
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My gut feeling would be, as Jon said, slightly under max inflation when cold to not stress the cracks and try to keep the speed down (55 or so) to reduce the heat. I bought one of those temperature measuring guns from Harbor Freight this summer and running at around 55 for 2 hours my tires were about 90 degrees on an 80 degree day.
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Gene & DW Ginny
2002 Sunline T-2363
2008 Toyota 4-runner 4wd 4.7L V-8
Reese Dual Cam straightline - P3 Brake controller
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09-21-2010, 09:54 PM
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#8
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 24
SUN #1527
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Jon, Maybe I've got this covered, not sure.
Son is going with me to do the driving, he has a Class1 for the 18 wheelers. I don't care much abt night driving for extended periods of time, getting old I guess.
We discussed this briefly earlier and his only comments were, lets get the wheelbearings done and we'll drop the tire psi down 5or6 from max. And we're gonna stay under the max speed limit, but not in the nuisance range.
Trip length one way is abt 165miles. I'd say he also is concerned and will be vry careful.
Take Care & Thanks
Ray
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09-22-2010, 07:11 AM
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#9
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 2,289
SUN #17
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Morning Ray,
Welcome to the group. That sure looks like a wonderful Sunline your getting.
It really looks like it's in fantastic shape, I had a 1986 T-1661 for years, loved that little trailer. Your should serve you well.
Thanks for posting the pics, and when you get it home, we'd all love to see more of your Sunline when you have the time.
Kitty
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Sunny #18 2003 F-344SR #8157
Sunny #19 1997 T-2653 #5485
1999 Ford F350XLT DRW Crew Cab, Long bed 7.3 PSD
2002 VW Jetta TDI.. AKA: Kitty's Kruiser
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