My new to me sunline travel trailer

[Brennidon]

Originally Posted by JerryJ

Since we don't now exactly where your problem is, you'll need to check these few things out. One stage at a time and don't panic

Thanks a lot! the old lights are incandescent bulbs and they do ground to the body. When i take the old light housing off there is a black wire and two white wires, the black wire connects to the light and the two white wrap around the screw and sandwiches between the body and the light housing. I have a multimeter im guessing that will work? I followed the main wire and found the junction box saw the fuses and the wires, didnt have a chance to look at it more then a few seconds. Ill look around at the junction box and let you know what i find out.

[mainah]

OH you'r hooked now! It's never ending enjoy the fun.

[Brennidon]

Well I finally got around to checking the voltages to the running lights. A few weeks ago I installed 4 new light housings and bulbs on the camper and yesterday when I plugged it back up to the truck only one of them worked. I was thinking greaaat this is going to be a pain. I used my multi meter and I was getting a 0 reading from the housing..so I pulled the housing off and checked the reading on the wires and I was getting 6.50 volts I did the same with every running light on the camper, took a reading from every wire and I was getting about 6.50 volts from every one of them, so I put the housings back on the body and again no lights. I decided to push on the two screws to make it sit on the body of the camper more and bam! I had lights. So the problem is that the screws cant get a good enough grip so it doesnt get a good ground.





the housing is pretty far away from the body because the screw cant get a good grip. so my question is how can I fix this? I was thinking a bigger screw but the holes on the light housing are not much bigger then the screw thats in it now. Anyone have any suggestions?

[JerryJ]

Looking at the size of the holes on your lights, you can use a bigger screw, but be careful they're not TOO big. I suppose you could build an adaptor plate for between the light housing and the trailer body but that's probably more a pain than it's worth.
Find a screw that you feel might fit best, then eyeball the new screw up against the existing holes in the housing. You should drill that is SLIGHTLY bigger hole before using the new bigger screw. One of those existing holes is a ground connection so try not to ruin its position. When you drill, drill it lightly so you're not forcing anything. Plus, I would use stainless screws. When you tighten the screws don't crank them. Just snug them and see how they feel.
Also, (my opinion) I would use dielectric grease on those new screws where they screw into the trailer body. It helps to maintain that electrical connection and also prevents moisture from doing further damage or any water migrating into the trailer. By doing that, it's one more thing that you know you did right.

How did you get 6.5 volts? Most vehicles are 12 volts, unless you have a step down system. Are your lights bright or dull?

[Brennidon]

Awesome info thanks! where would I shop to get the dielectric grease? I think it was that low of a reading because I left the lights on in the truck for so long that the battery died lol it was really dead. They were kind of dim but when I pushed on the housing they got a lot brighter. Im guessing because the connection was bad.

[JerryJ]

I would suggest Lowes, Home Depot, most automotive shops. But make sure the mention of dielectric is mention on the labels. Some just mention moisture resistance. I bought a big tube 2 days ago and paid $6 and that's in Canada where we pay more than you do grrrrrr.
If you're not sure ask someone at the counter but be insistent it's dielectric. I think the older guys should not, not sure about part time younger employees.


I just checked in my shop:
The stuff I bought is GROTE Ultra Seal. It says Corrosion Preventive Sealant. On the back of the label is says is prevents moisture build up. Why they couldn't say dielectric is beyond me.


So, not sure what brand you'll find but as long as it alludes to preventing moisture, you should be ok.


Permatex always has good stuff too.

[bunjin]

You can buy dielectric grease at Walmart also.

[mainah]

Are you sure there is not a white ground wire? The body work on a trailer is a pretty poor ground unless it's frame work. generally the ground wire makes a home run to the fuse panel ground along with the black wire.

[dtstanton]

If you're only getting 6.5 volts, you may have two bulbs in series somewhere.

[mainah]

Each lamp should have two wires usually a black and white on a Sunline the black wire should go to the black wire on your lamp and the white wire should be landed on the ground wire that your lights do not have. It is not a real good plan to use wood as a point to ground the lights meaning even if you use a ring terminal on the ground wire to the metal part of the lamp it just does not stay tight enough to make a reliable ground. What I would do is drill a small hole in the metal grounding point of the lamp and use a self threading screw to fasten the ground wire. With out a good ground on all the lights your asking for problems down the road.

[bunjin]

Tim,

How about soldering to the light grounding plate? make sense? My kind of approach.

[mainah]

I don't think you'll get a non acid solder to stick to the steel. Then there is the plastic that won't like the heat much.

[Brennidon]

Well this morning before work I went out with the new screws and dielectric grease I bought and decided to work on the lights. THEY ALL WORK! wooo! I didnt have time to check what voltage they were getting but they are a lot brighter then before. Im so stoaked! I am really glad that it wasnt a huge problem and that it was a simple fix. Thanks to everyone for the great info! I still need to replace one of the old red and two of the old orange lights to have all new housings/covers but for the moment they will work fine. Next step is to finish the little bit of flooring I have left and then she will be ready for camping!

[pogey]

Hi there, Just came across your post last year.
I am wondering how the high temp paint worked, my stove top is rusted too and am thinking of renewing it. Thanks, Pogey

[thirdwheel]

Glad for you! Looking for one like that myself.

[jazw33]

Originally Posted by Brennidon

I was able to find a replacement handle/light for the outside of the camper. Its a Burgman metal assist light


soon as it comes in ill have one more thing finished on the outside

Did this fit the original hole? I am not finding any as big as my unit has for replacements.

[NotBad10]

Where did you find this? I need one as well! Just purchased same trailer!

[Sunline Fan]

Originally Posted by NotBad10

Where did you find this? I need one as well! Just purchased same trailer!

The Bargman 74-32-001 Lighted Assist Handle has been discontinued for a few years now. You may find one on eBay if you watch for a while, but they will be hard to find.

That particular handle was smaller than the original plastic one used by Sunline, so it isn't a direct fit, but it can be made to fit and look close to original.

[donnie]

Originally Posted by Brennidon

I was able to find a replacement handle/light for the outside of the camper. Its a Burgman metal assist light


soon as it comes in ill have one more thing finished on the outside

Where did you find this?

[grayfair]

Where did you find the Bargman Assist Bar? I need a new one!

Can't find on internet. Your help would be great!