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Old 02-09-2016, 06:36 PM   #1
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just bought a 1983 sunline satelite? many issue please help

Hi guys I am new to the forum and just "upgraded" so to speak to a 1983 from a 1965 canned ham. So the guy who owned it was pretty was and so the camper is rough. I need help with some if the wiring configuration from the battery. He said someone sole it and so the wires are cut. Plus there are some thing I just don't know what they are.WIN_20160209_18_02_18_Pro.jpg [ATTACH]WIN_20160209_18_09_39_Pro.jpg[/ATTACH]
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Old 02-09-2016, 06:39 PM   #2
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[attach][attach][attach]WIN_20160209_18_10_01_Pro.jpg[/attach][/attach][/attach]
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Old 02-09-2016, 08:20 PM   #3
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Hi Gabe,

Welcome to Sunline Owners Club! and congrats on your Sunny!

I think you are asking what is each of the pics? If so here goes. Pics tell us a lot to be able to help. You get and A+!

This is a "mess".... That is suppose to be a 7 wire plug to plug into the back of your truck to work the directional lights and the trailer brakes. It is suppose to look like this. https://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-...ns/H20044.html



Does your truck have a 7 wire receptacle at the back and a brake controller? If not then that will be needed also.

This is an all LP gas hot water heater that is missing the heat shield on the flame tube exhaust port. Does it have the outside fold up cover?


This is an outside shower with 2 sprayers. There is normally only 1 sprayer.


I'm assuming you mean the garden hose looking fitting, That is the fresh water hook up point for pressurized water.


This wiring is in rough shape. The Red cable is suppose to be the (+) positive hot lead and the white cable is the ground or (-) negative lead for a deep cycle lead acid battery.


This is what they call a weight distribution chain snap up bracket. It is part of the hitch system you need to tow the camper. Should be on on both sides of the A frame.


This was an Emergency Breakaway switch which is part of the mandatory safety system when towing the camper. That switch is to have a cable hooked to the truck and if the trailer becomes unhooked from the truck towing down the road, it pulls the cable and turns on the switch to apply the trailer brakes. Recommend you upgrade to a new one.


Here is a new one https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...s/HM20014.html

Hope this helps and good luck

John
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Old 02-09-2016, 10:07 PM   #4
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WOW! thanks so much. You answered everything perfectly.... as for the cover for the boiler heater, yes I have it. I think I will using my buddy heater for heat and a tank less water heater in the shower. So I will be getting rid of this, seems like to much of a hassle.
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Old 02-09-2016, 10:13 PM   #5
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on the red cable (+) what are those other wires for... black and green?
Also where can I find a new lp double hookup hose, apparently the previouse owner said that when he hooked propane to it that the regulator had a pin size hole in it so he never used it. How to clean the propane lines?
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Old 02-09-2016, 10:14 PM   #6
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Also is there a manual for this camper on this site, I cant seem to find one.
Mine is a 16 ft I believe.
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Old 02-10-2016, 07:39 AM   #7
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Here is a link to the wiring for the 7-Way plug: https://www.etrailer.com/question-363.html .... That will help you with the wires on the front end some.


Edited to add: At the top of this page, and all pages, is a link to "Files". Your model is on page three. This link might help for that: http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/do...rt=date&page=3
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Old 02-10-2016, 08:01 AM   #8
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You can find LP regulators online, at LP distributors and camper supply places.


To clean the LP lines you can disconnect all appliances. Cap the lines all but the longest run line. Apply air to blow line clean. Then plug longest run line and then open another end and blow it out. Repeat until all lines are blown out. Each appliance will need individual service/repair/replacement.


Good luck with your project.
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Old 02-10-2016, 08:20 AM   #9
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I looked at the picture with the two showerheads. It looks like the white showerhead is disconnected but they didn't pull the hose out. Then they installed the chrome showerhead. It gets tight with all those hoses crammed in there. You can remove the white hose.
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Old 02-10-2016, 09:03 AM   #10
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Do you think I could just run new hoses directly to let say tankless water heater and one directly to the stove? I mean regular black rubber hoses not the copper or pipe.
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Old 02-10-2016, 09:19 AM   #11
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Yes, anything is possible "but" I wouldn't recommend it. If hoses were "the easy" way then why wouldn't manufacturers do it? My guess is that solid lines such as metal have less vibration and last longer. Rubber hoses can rot from the inside out and will flop around going down the road or might even have rodents chew them. If you want to use a temporary hose to check appliances that would be alright but I wouldn't push it. You would want to be safe.
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Old 02-10-2016, 09:23 AM   #12
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Connected to the + post trailer brake switch wire (no fuse) camper wire generally red #8 wire (fused 30 amp) + wire from the 7 pin # 4 connector (fused (30 amp) generally red. All the rest should be white and they connect to the - post. When you repair all the splices in the trailer wire buy heat shrink crimp connectors they are a lot more expensive but they are mostly water tight once in place. Some thing like this would save you a lot of time and make a neater install 7-Way Molded Trailer Wire Connector, 6' Long Hopkins Wiring H20044
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Old 02-12-2016, 02:17 PM   #13
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is there a way to install a solar kit with ease
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Old 02-16-2016, 10:31 PM   #14
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Hi Gabe,

Just an FYI, your trailer is a 1986, not a 1983. It should be at least an 18', measured from tip to tip.
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Old 02-17-2016, 05:40 AM   #15
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There are solar kits available and installation is anywhere from setting the panels outside on the ground to permanently fastening them to the roof and running wires inside. Your definition of easy might be something else. Google is your friend when finding solar systems.
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Old 02-18-2016, 08:45 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunline Fan View Post
Hi Gabe,

Just an FYI, your trailer is a 1986, not a 1983. It should be at least an 18', measured from tip to tip.

How do you know, the guy I bought it from said it was an 83....yeah and its definitely 18'...He didn't give me a title so I took his word...
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Old 02-18-2016, 08:46 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim-Bev-2363 View Post
There are solar kits available and installation is anywhere from setting the panels outside on the ground to permanently fastening them to the roof and running wires inside. Your definition of easy might be something else. Google is your friend when finding solar systems.

I am sure, I just wanted to see who here had a simple layout that worked for them. You know a parts list and a how to. Thanks though
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Old 02-18-2016, 03:35 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gabe_1983sun View Post
How do you know, the guy I bought it from said it was an 83....yeah and its definitely 18'...He didn't give me a title so I took his word...
I guess you could say I'm a bit of a historical expert on these trailers...

They only used that logo color and stripe color in 1985-86. The Satellite (and other models) name first came out in 1986, prior to that the models just had only the number. 1985 was also the last year of raw aluminum framed windows and 1986 was the first year of brown painted, even though I couldn't see any windows in your pictures.

The Satellite series was just for models between 17/18' and 24' in overall length. The smaller ones (comparable to a canned ham, single axle) were Saturn models. All Satellites were tandem axle, which yours appears to be by the fenderskirt.

The VIN tag is on your tongue there, painted over with brown paint. It should read 1LC2S1x2xGDxxxxxx, with the G indicating 1986 model. If it's a different letter, that's a different model year. The letter D would be in that place for a 1983 model. The two numbers following the GD in the VIN will indicate length, which can help narrow down what model number you have.
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Old 02-18-2016, 04:43 PM   #19
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IS there a manual for this somewhere....I don't understand the fuse box system...or what runs off of the battery and what doesn't...
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Old 02-18-2016, 08:11 PM   #20
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There are no manuals as such for the Sunlines. The book new owners got was a 3 ring binder with manuals for the items in the trailer like stove, fridge, water heater, and etc.

To break down the fuse box a little, each 12 volt item (battery items) is protected by a fuse and each 120 volt AC item is protected by circuit breakers.

The lights are all 12 volt as are the control board for the fridge, the furnace, the control for the water heater, the water pump, and the LP detector.

The circuit breakers control the AC outlets and in some units the electric element for the water heater, electric element for the fridge, the microwave, the converter that converts 120 volts AC to 12 volts DC to charge the battery and run the 12 volt things.

In short:
12 volts = fuse
120 volts = circuit breaker

-------

As you can see, Sunline Fan (Jon) is the expert on Sunline models. If you can find your VIN send a PM to Jon, he has a database of models and VIN numbers and I am sure he would like to add yours.
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