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06-14-2007, 10:42 AM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: New York
Posts: 95
SUN #296
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Bought it home yesterday
Picked coach up yesterday from the dealer. Headed out tommorow as soon as kids get done school. Need to give it a bath and wipe down inside.
I have a question on my hot waterheater.
What position should this valve be in? Unfortunately there are no manuals with my rig.
I also have valves under bathroom sink Im trying to figure out will post a pick latter.
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06-14-2007, 11:25 AM
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#2
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: New York
Posts: 1,920
SUN #98
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Bob & Jen,
Congrats on the new "to you" trailer - looks great - thanks for posting the pictures.
The valves under the sink are the low point hot & cold water drains. Use those when you want drain the water system, like when winterizing the camper.
The hot water tank valve looks like it's in the right position for camping (i.e., not bypassed). The bypass hose is that vertical hose. Is there another valve on the other end of that vertical hose? If there is, that should also be in the same position. Typically, if the valve handle is in-line with the vertical hose (i.e., turn 90° from it’s current position) it will be in the bypass mod, where water is flowing through the vertical hose bypassing the hot water tank. Just make sure there is water in the hot water tank before turning on your water heater. If you hook up to city water, you should be able to hear the water filling up the tank.
Have a great camping week-end in your new trailer.
Hutch
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Mary & Tom (aka Hutch)
2015 Jayco Eagle Premier 361REQS
2014 GMC Sierra 3500HD 4x4 CC D/A
Sunlines: 2005 Solaris T-280SR; 1999 Solaris T-2670; 1998 Saturn T-24A
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06-14-2007, 09:08 PM
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#3
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Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Michigan
Posts: 6,155
SUN #123
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Bob & Jen,
Welcome to the forum! It looks like you picked up a nice looking '94. Make sure to wax the logos, especially the red letters in them! Believe me, I know from experience. I've replaced the logos on both of my '94's. Here's some before and after pics of my 2363, to show you a good example of what happens to non-waxed logos(before pic):
On the plus side, the '94's are well built coaches and will last a long time, when properly maintained. If you have any questions about the '94 model year in particular, just ask me.
Jon
P.S. It would probably be a good idea to seal your roof ASAP. If you're unsure how to do it, just ask here. It's easier than it sounds.
__________________
2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9473.8 (as of 6/18/21)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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06-18-2007, 07:23 AM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: New York
Posts: 95
SUN #296
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Returned Sunday from a great weekend camping. Weather was great and the sites at Higely Flow State Park were well kept. Only problem we had with trailer was toilet. We noticed a small amount of water on floor after flushing. We were close to camp toilets so we used them for the weekend and I will check out today to see where water is coming from. I think it is on pressure side as if you put water in toilet with a bucket and flush (with pump off) I do not get water on floor.
Jon
I have cleaned my roof with a rubber roof cleaner / conditioner and I do want to seal it before our trip in July. I was looking at Kool seal on camper world. Is this the right product to use? I also picked up some Dicor to seal the seams.
Thanks for all the replies.
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06-18-2007, 08:55 AM
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#5
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Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Michigan
Posts: 6,155
SUN #123
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I haven't used the Kool Seal, but I do use the Dicor on all the seams. The Dicor is a must, but it looks like the Kool Seal could really help extend the life of the roof. I haven't read the directions for it, but make sure you use the primer before you use the top coat, if necessary. The roof on my 2363 hadn't been cleaned at all, so it really weathered and needed to be replaced. Being that is such a major job, making the old roof last is the best plan. Give it a shot and let us know how it works.
Jon
__________________
2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9473.8 (as of 6/18/21)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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06-18-2007, 09:49 AM
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#6
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: New York
Posts: 95
SUN #296
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunline Fan
I haven't used the Kool Seal, but I do use the Dicor on all the seams. The Dicor is a must, but it looks like the Kool Seal could really help extend the life of the roof. I haven't read the directions for it, but make sure you use the primer before you use the top coat, if necessary. The roof on my 2363 hadn't been cleaned at all, so it really weathered and needed to be replaced. Being that is such a major job, making the old roof last is the best plan. Give it a shot and let us know how it works.
Jon
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Yea I dont think mine was ever cleaned either. It is very weathered and has alot of black spots on it. Im going to give it a second cleaning before I coat it with sealer. I have some bubbles in my roof that worry me. Going to coat it and keep a close eye on it. I found a Dicor Sealer in my new Camping World catalog so Im going to compare it with the Kool seal. I will take some before and after pics and post them.
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06-18-2007, 11:24 AM
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#7
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Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Michigan
Posts: 6,155
SUN #123
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I had some black spots too. I never could get them to disappear. Be careful when you scrub your roof. I scrubbed mine down really good, only to discover afterwards that there were some small tears in the rubber which caused a lot of water to leak inside. That's not an easy job to redo the ceiling.
Jon
__________________
2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9473.8 (as of 6/18/21)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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06-18-2007, 08:47 PM
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#8
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12,654
SUN #89
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Jon
That camper is in beautiful shape. WOW. What year did you tak that pic of your 94?.
John
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC
Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
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06-18-2007, 09:07 PM
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#9
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Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Michigan
Posts: 6,155
SUN #123
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John,
That pic was taken on April 8th, 2006. Other than the roof being bad, this Sunline was my pride and joy. It looked the best over the 1550 and 2251. Fortunatly, I got compensated accordingly . I wanted to do one right by replacing anything yellow, so all exterior plastic parts, door skins, etc., got replaced. The only thing not replaced was the storage door skins on the OD Side. They are glued to the foam insulated door, so there was no easy to replace it and they aren't available just anywhere. If you'd like, I'd be glad to e-mail you a bunch of pics of it.
Jon
__________________
2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9473.8 (as of 6/18/21)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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06-18-2007, 09:14 PM
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#10
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12,654
SUN #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunline Fan
John,
That pic was taken on April 8th, 2006. Other than the roof being bad, this Sunline was my pride and joy.
If you'd like, I'd be glad to e-mail you a bunch of pics of it.
Jon
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Jon
Email your heart out. That trailer just looks so great I can see the TLC on it starting from the frame up. WOW
Thanks in advance
John
__________________
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC
Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
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