I did receive your PM. I’ll post out here on the forum so possibly some one else has run across this and can help add to what I’m saying. If anything I say you are not familiar with, stop and don’t do it.
First we have to figure out what you have. Do you have a digi camera and can post a pic, or even send to me? We can exchange emails if needed if you do not yet have a picture hosting site.
A picture on the inside of your converter would help. So we can read the words on the fuse locations and with the power off, the inside of the panel.
You said you have a 2005 model camper, and need to confirm the brand and model number of the converter. I happen to have 2, 2004 campers one built in Oct 2003 and one in May 2004. And guess what, they have 2 different revisions of converters… I actually called American Enterprises last week talking with there tech service group about my older one as I am having a fan issue that sounds like a freight train running…. It seems at the end of 2003, they went from the CS6000 to the CS6000XL and the converter and the power box was changed. And now in 2008, they have an upgraded CS6000XL….
Tell me which model you have.
Here is the older one. The CS6000. The door panel does not take up the full length of the front and there is only 1 LED in the top left corner. The Overload LED
The The CS6000 Circuit breakers go left to right and it has less fuse slots.
Here is the The CS6000 circuit naming plate.
And here is what the inside looks like the The CS6000. NOTE: the fans are buried in the back siliconed in place. ERRRR
Here is the CS6000XL that came out in early 2004. I believe this is the one you have. You tell us.
The outside door panel is more to the left and full length. In the Middle top area there are 4 LED's, and 1 yellow button.
The CS6000XL LED’s
The CS6000XL circuit breakers are go from top to bottom.
Here is the Model number plate and fuse numbers
And the CS6000XL inside. Fans now right up front and rigidly mounted.
So do any of these pics’ look like your model?
Now to some of your questions. And tell me where I go wrong.
1. You said you checked the outside battery disconnect and it was OFF. Turned shore power back on and still nothing.
2. You said the 30 amp fuses where in place 1 and 3. Meaning not directly across form each other on the very top circuit. Well if this is the case then they are in wrong or yours is wired different then all the rest of them. Fuse 1 and 2 are 30 amps each that feed the battery charging OR power from the battery to the camper. For now hold this thought, will fix it after.
Check these things. Do ALL these with the front cover ON. You are doing some normal checking tasks to try to isolate the problem. Each step assumes the system does not work. If you find it working, then stop going any further.
1. Look at the 120 VAC circuit breaker labeled 15 amp general purpose. This one supplies wall plugs AND the power converter. Make sure it is not tripped. Turn it off then back on. Does the DC now work? I’ll assume it does not yet.
2. With power on, is the little overload LED on? Assuming it is not or really is, we need to back into what may be shorting out the DC system or if the converter is even working.
3. Turn the 30 amp power main break OFF. This will kill the power to the entire box. Wait 1 minute for the capacitors to bleed down.
4. Pull both 30 amp green fuses out. This will completely unhook the battery feed and the wiring to it. Turn main breaker back ON, Try a DC light? Does it work?
5. Turn main breaker off again, wait for capacitor bleed down. Now pull out the blue 15 amp fuse for the water pump and the furnace. With those 2 out, Turn main breaker back ON, Try a DC light? Does it work?
6. Ok now you have the hang of this. Turn main breaker off again, wait for capacitor bleed down. Now pull out the blue 15 amp fuse for the Acc Radio and the Gas Detector. With those 2 out, Turn main breaker back ON, Try a DC light? Does it work?
7. You now only have 3 fuses left in unless you have electronic ignition on the stove. Turn main breaker off again, wait for capacitor bleed down. Now pull out the blue 15 amp fuse for the bed room and bath. If I “guessed” your camper right there is only 1 left in for lights. With those 2 out, Turn main breaker back ON, Try a DC light? Does it work?
8. If still nothing. Turn main breaker off again, wait for capacitor bleed down. Now pull out the last blue 15 amp fuse and plug 1 fuse in for lights in a room you had out before. Turn main breaker back ON, Try a DC light? Does it work?
Hopefully by this time you found one of the circuits was pulling down the system. Then you have to back into what is shorted on that 1 leg.
9. OK 1 last thing to figure out. Will the system work on battery? Unplug the shore power and leave it unplugged. Put the 2, 30 amp fuses back in, slot 1 and 2. Leave 1 room lights fuse in, put the battery in. Turn on the disconnect. Do you have lights? If yes, then turn battery off and plug rest of fuses in, still NO 120 shore power, turn on battery and see if inside works on DC? If yes then the system is OK and your converter is having issues.
If the converter is the problem, well you are going to need a volt meter and an ohm meter and know how to use one to trouble shoot further.
Hope this helps.