Replacing rotten wood in walls on 1982 FW 1850

rchancey · 02-12-2013, 05:05 AM

I need to remove the cabniets and side wall paneling to get the wood behind panels. Back wall paneling has been removed. Not sure how to remove side wall cabniets without destroying them.

**JohnB** · 02-12-2013, 11:08 AM

On the Travel Trailers the cabinets are screwed in from the outside when they have the siding off. Short of taking the siding off to get to the screws, we have had to cut the screws or drill the heads off to later vice grip the stud out. Not quick by any means but it is short of destroying the wall and cabinet.

One of the new vibrating tools with a metal cutting blade may be and option. Put some protective something along the wall to not tear the wall paper.

The 5th wheel may be made the same. I suspect they would be.

rchancey · 02-12-2013, 12:48 PM

Not sure what I will get into. I have to remove cabniets and wall paneling to get the rotten wood between paneling and outside metal

**JohnB** · 02-12-2013, 07:07 PM

A few things in case you run into this.

To remove the siding on the camper it comes off from the bottom and works up. Opposite of home siding.

You unscrew the corner strips, get behind the putty tape and take the corners off.

Then comes the siding. I do not know what they used back in 1982 to hold the siding on. On the newer campers they staple it on. Pull the staples and off comes the siding.

See here

Then when you go to put it back on, re-staple with an air stapler.

Depending on how many studs are totally gone, so is the siding attachment points.

Good luck. It is all fixable which is the good thing with these types of campers. If your handy with wood you can rebuild anything on the camper structure.

John

jim44646 · 02-13-2013, 06:50 AM

Here's an interesting video on replacement siding.
Metal Siding For Your Vintage RV - YouTube

WASA 1500 · 02-14-2013, 05:39 PM

Good post Jim, and John.
The 80's are just the same as yours, staples and putty!
Removed from bottom up. Not a bad job, best way to replace bad wood,
Due to those staples!

rchancey · 02-14-2013, 07:03 PM

This weekend I will attempt to remove per your suggestion. What do I do at the roof seam ?

**JohnB** · 02-14-2013, 07:43 PM

When you get to the top, it will a judgment call to take it off or leave it. Again making an assumption on the older campers they used gutter rail along the top even on the metal roofs.

If the wall studs are solid up top, you may be able to cut off the bad part down lower and then put a new full length stud, roof sill to the floor, next to it and attach sideways to the piece of old stud that is still good.

If the top is rotted, then odds are high the sill plate above it is gone too. Then you "may" have to pull the gutter rail and the last piece of siding. If the putty tape is questionable up at the roof line, well this might be time to re-do it. If I had the camper that far apart, I would then I know it is sound and good for many years ahead.

Hope this helps and good luck

John

rchancey · 02-17-2013, 03:50 PM

I tore everything out from inside due to the walls,some cabinets and interior roof panels were rotten from leaks. I stopped at the bathroom walls because they were good. I removed the fridge and all associatted cabinets. I am going to replace wood from inside and use a screw with a gasket to secure it from outside. What do think ? Floor is bad too in rear.

**JohnB** · 02-17-2013, 04:35 PM

The screw with the gasket, If you are going this route squirt a pump of non leveling Dicor roof sealant in the hole before the screw.

With that many screws, I'm assuming a lot, I myself would take the siding off. If it was 1 or 2 screws, then I would Dicor the screws.

Good luck

John

rchancey · 02-18-2013, 07:45 PM

John,
I know you have followed all of my post and by now you know I have tore out paneling,cabinets and ceiling. I think it would be less work and a very good end product if I secure the wood studs from the outside siding.. Then staple the new paneling to the studs. Where can I buy the roof sealant you spoke about. I also wanted to thank you for all your help so far.

**JohnB** · 02-18-2013, 09:24 PM

Here is one place. There are many more

Dicor Non-Sag Lap Sealant - White - Dicor Corp 551LSW-1 - Roof Maintenance & Repair - Camping World

Search for Dicro 551LSW Non sag roof sealant for vertical surfaces. Here is the company web site for info.
https://dicorproducts.com/catalog/ro...-lap-sealants/

The color is white. They do make other colors in the self leveling version but it will run away on you on vertical surfaces. I would have to read up on it, but it may be paintable. Have to confirm that

Good luck

John

rchancey · 02-19-2013, 09:31 AM

John,
What is the differnce between installing screws to hold windows etc from outside and screwing to the studs from outside ? Am I missing something ?

**JohnB** · 02-19-2013, 10:56 AM

Here is some more on how I came to the screw thoughts to help.

Windows, gutter/awning rail, door frames, cargo hole door frames have sealing tape and a wide flange behind them. Lots of sealing surface. The sealing tape seals the flanges and creates an amount of seal right at the screw threads. A screw head by itself only has a very little amount of contact under the head to create the seal.

I have done screws in the side of the camper. To mount my down spouts is one place. The way to do this is to squirt RV sealant caulking in the holes and let it ooze out creating a sealed screw. The bracket I have screwed on also creates part of the seal as the sealant is bonding it down too.

I was not meaning to say screws would not work, but for sure use the RV sealant (do not use silicone) if you do. The odds of a seal on every screw in this siding application will be lower then using many screws on a doorframe with the 1/8" thick 3/4" wide sealing tape behind it. It is not the screw that is the problem, but how to create the seal. If you have 10 to 20 screws is not a great big number however, 100 or more screws increases the potential odds, which was the thought.

Part of this is also how many years one want out of this repair? If you are after 5 years, you may not find a problem with the 100 screws and sealant. If you are after 10, odds may be a few will develop a problem. If it is, 15 years plus odds are not good. Even sealing tape under the awning rails/camper corners can have issues in the 15-year point pending conditions. The RV industry uses putty tape except on the rubber roof area where they use butyl rubber tape. The butyl cost a few dollars more but lasts many years longer. It comes down to $$ for them making hundreds of campers. For us doing our own work, spending $20 more on a bunch of sealing tape is not a problem.

If you do go the screw route, consider stainless just remember to not over torque them or the heads will pop off. Hardware stores that sell them by the box are a whole lot cheaper then the little bags of 2 or 3. I have converted all my factory-exposed screws to stainless. The coated steal creates rust bleeds wherever a chip in the coating exists, which mainly comes from the drive bit or under the head of the screw as it scraped the camper the day it was put in. This rust bleed can show up in a 3 to 5 year time. Some take longer.

Hope this helps

John

rchancey · 02-20-2013, 08:45 PM

What do you think about using standard stainless screws and dicor sealant and not using the screws with a gasket.

**JohnB** · 02-21-2013, 08:25 PM

Well, after thinking on this if you are going to use screws, stainless screws with Dicor I feel would be better than the steal gasket head screws.

Reasoning is the stainless (with low to no rust) screw head will be tight to the metal and the sealant will form around all areas of the screw holding the metal tight and the seal tight and the layers of siding crimp tight.

On the rubber gasket, they work good on say steel buildings but a different set up. On the aluminum sided camper there are folds of thin metal of the siding seams you will be going through. While the sealant can create a seal this is all good on day one. Over time and towing down the road the rubber gasket may crack or deteriorate and then the folds of metal are no longer tight and the seal may separate. The rubber gasket breaking down I think can be an issue in this application over time.

rchancey · 02-24-2013, 05:05 PM

I just ordered three tubes. I thought this sealant would be good to have around. Can I use this to re install roof vents,hatches etc. Seal any roof,lights leak ?

**JohnB** · 02-24-2013, 05:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rchancey

I just ordered three tubes. I thought this sealant would be good to have around. Can I use this to re install roof vents,hatches etc. Seal any roof,lights leak ?

Yes, it is good for sealing what you mentioned, however on the vents and hatches, don not know the older ones but the new ones use butyl tape under the flange to seal to the roof, Then they Dicor over the top of this screws as as a water proofing so the screws do not rust out.

This thread may help on how it is used on the newer rubber roofs but it applies to sealing most things.
http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f7...1-a-11508.html

I also use the non self leveling to seal around clearance and marker lights. I do the top and sides. The bottom I have drilled hole in the lens to let the water out. Any fine crack and water finds it's way in. If it cannot get out it may head into the camper. I had a couple of filled red light up on the top rear of the camper. Was shocked at how filled they were. From then forward they now drain at least.

Let us know how you make out

John

**JohnB** · 02-24-2013, 05:51 PM

Here is a body light. I have since done the 2 vertical sides

Here are the drain holes

rchancey · 05-27-2013, 07:11 PM

John,
I will probably hear you and LOL when you read this. I always said I would not remove the siding to repair walls. All the siding on three sides are off now and working my way back to reinstalling. I have removed a vent off the roof above the refrigerator cabinet and cannot find it. Not sure what it is called. Size is 20" x 6". Also I have a broke window on the side of the bedroom. Cannot see a way to replace ?