Maybe this can help. Here is your 1995 T2670 floor plan. This is a little fuzzy from our brochure, it it shows us something closer to what you want to do.
You stated this:
wondering if anyone has ever taken out the top bunk and potentially part of the wall behind the dinette? Iíd love to open it up a little more and since itís just the two of us we have an over-abundance of sleeping options and that seems like a way to maybe free up a bit of space.
I'm saying this as a general statement. The mechanical strength of the way these campers are built, is truly the sum of all the parts. OK, meaning what?
The campers are built very light weight and not like a house. The inside cabinets and walls add strength and rigidity to the camper. If you took out all the cabinets and inside walls, the camper would be very wiggly and not last for a long full timing trip.
That said, there are some modifications that can be made and it not create a large problem. This all starts with more understanding on what you are wanting to do. And to help you understand what potential wallboard and ceiling board holes may come from this.
The camper is built from the outside in. All the siding is off and the studs and inside wall board all glued and stapled to the studs. The walls and cabinets are screwed in from the ceiling down if they are up high and from the outside of the wall into the cabinets. If the roof is off and the siding off, then yes, you can unscrew all of them. But most times, this is not the case to have the camper all apart to get to the screws. You can then end up making good sized holes in the walls yanking out the screws ripping them through the wall board. And they uses a lot of screws.
Let's take each area but itself. The top bunk, if you can post a few pics of the way it is made, this can help give you a better answer. I suspect that top bunk in the back has a frame that is screwed in from the outside back wall and the outside left wall, both from the outside in. The part of the bunk frame next to the bathroom, you may be able to get to the screws from the inside. Same goes for the front part of the bunk that backs up to the kitchen dinette. Your going to have to deal with those outside screws and ripping out the wall board.
There is some concern that taking the bunk frame out of the corner of the camper may lower the stiffness of the rear wall. I'm assuming the bottom bunk frame will remain? Need to know if that is being removed too. Taking both the top and bottom bunk frames out may be an issue. That said, if you do not want the bunks to sleep on, converting the tops to storage space etc is an option as long as the weight is not very high. Loading a lot of weight in the back of the camper can upset the towing stability by lowering the tongue weight. But, camp chairs and other light items that eat up bulk space but are light, are options to store there.
The dinette wall, I'm assuming that is a floor to ceiling wall? yes/no? If you cut out part of that wall, there is again the holes in the left side wall and ceiling board to deal with. Pics help here on what you want to do. We need to know how many feet of wall you are talking out and how much is being left. The wall adds some strength to holding the left side stiff. Taking it all out, may be an issue.
Hope this helps explain some of all this so you know better going into it.
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC
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