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11-17-2016, 03:26 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Ontario
Posts: 360
SUN #6257
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Propane Furnace
I have a question about the use of a propane furnace.
I have my work shop outdoors in the back yard. It's insulated and is wired for power. Originally when I built it years ago I wanted to install a wood burning stove, but due to paint storage I changed that tune. Then I bought those 1,500 watt electric heaters. I think I had 3 different types and found they supplied minimal heat at best. They take a while to kill the chill and they're costly to run. I still use them once in a blue moon if they'res a real chill in the shop. My shop is 10ft x 10ft x 12ft. It's small but I have 2 work benches tons of storage shelves (and my little sanctuary)
Before I sold my T1350 I used our propane furnace in the trailer and found it to provide decent warmth, considering the fact that the T1350 did NOT have a lot of cubic feet to heat.
I never did figure out home much propane I would use at any given time.
So, my question is: does any one know how much propane a travel-trailer furnace consumes? Let's quantify the question. If I let it run full tilt non-stop, how long would a 20 lb tank last? Obviously I wouldn't let it run that long but that could give me a base line to work on.
Thanks guys
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Jerry & Debbie
Ford Explorer 4.6 Triton V8, AWD, 4x4
1985 Sunline Saturn T-1350
Ham radio VE3JCJ, VHF, UHF and HF
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11-17-2016, 04:42 AM
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#2
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12,643
SUN #89
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Jerry,
This will get you close.
What is the "input BTU" rating of the furnace? It all starts there. The input rating is how much LP the furnace uses, not what heat you get out of it. Atwood lists the rating on their spec sheets. Do you have a furnace model number? If you cannot find the rating we can help look with you.
Here is more on BTU's Propane BTU's and Gas Appliance BTU Ratings Explained
Next is how many BTU's are there in propane per unit of measure? See here
http://www.npga.org/files/public/Fac...ut_Propane.pdf
Page 10 tells how many BTU's per pound or gallon. Then you have to do the math on how many usable pounds. And there is also a question at what temperature the LP tank is at so you can get all the LP out of the tank. That gets a little more involved but again, just knowing the raw BTU use will get you in the league of your answer. Consider your answer an average time use for the 20# tank.
Hope this helps
John
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2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC
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11-17-2016, 08:27 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Ontario
Posts: 360
SUN #6257
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Thanks for the help.
I guess this is the part where I have to start from scratch. All I know is that I have 1,200 cubic feet to heat. I really don't know what size of furnace I need and I was hoping to buy a used furnace from someone online from a buy and sell forum (locally). Like anything else in life not everything is created equal. I'm assuming that a smaller furnace/heater might do the job.
Obviously, consumption is based on how long it takes to heat and maintain that space.
I was guessing that a TT propane furnace/heater might be the right way to go, maybe, maybe not. I might contact Atwood or an RV shop and get some specifics.
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Jerry & Debbie
Ford Explorer 4.6 Triton V8, AWD, 4x4
1985 Sunline Saturn T-1350
Ham radio VE3JCJ, VHF, UHF and HF
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11-17-2016, 01:46 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,279
SUN #1830
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Insulation for the building would help hold the heat. Propane use would depend on how often you would have to refill the room with heat.
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Beverly & Jim
Sebring, Florida
1991 T-2363 Solaris
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11-17-2016, 02:44 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Ontario
Posts: 360
SUN #6257
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GalacticSton
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Thanks for your help and the link. I wrote to them shortly after you posted the link and here's their response
Jerry,
Unfortunately that is a question that cannot be answered. There are too many factors to determine how much it would use. The unit will shut on and off to satisfy temperature and insulation can vary that. We do not have any type of measurement, even per hour this is not something that was tested.
Thank you!
Customer Service Technician
Hi Jim: my shop is fully insulated when I built it about 10 years ago I use and R30 walls and ceiling. Kind of funny, I can go in the shop on a super hot day and the inside is much, much cooler from the night before. So the insdulation is doing its thing
I'm guessing I might experiment with a smaller used propane furnace and make my own judgment. Obviously I won't be running it 24/7 that number would only give me an indication of fuel consumption. No sense buying a new one only to find out it's not what I'm looking for.
Thanks guys for all your help
Jerry
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Jerry & Debbie
Ford Explorer 4.6 Triton V8, AWD, 4x4
1985 Sunline Saturn T-1350
Ham radio VE3JCJ, VHF, UHF and HF
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11-17-2016, 05:27 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Maine
Posts: 3,357
SUN #2097
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RV heaters are far more than what's needed in an RV I heat mine when it's 30* outside with a 1100 watt electric heater. However they heat a camper very quickly I think mine in my T1700 is 16,000 btu's I have a house, well house trailer heater that's only 30,000 btu's that heats my garage. I think a house unit is probably much more efficient than a camper heater I do use the garage heater to heat the space occasionally to work on things in the dead of winter and I only have a 30# tank it usually lasts me all winter. I did know a fellow that lived in a camper during Maine winters and went through a 50# tank a week so around here that's about $150 a week. You may want to look at a blue flame wall heater they are not real expensive and only use propane no electric. Some thing like this https://www.amazon.com/PROCOM-Blue-F.../dp/B002NVGJO0
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11-18-2016, 08:32 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,279
SUN #1830
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Jerry, You used the electric heaters with those fumes and that is dangerous. Red hot elements ignite fumes, I think. The blue-flame heaters have open fires which is a no no.
It does sound like you have the place well insulated. Even better insulated than most TTs so a TT heater should do good. A 1500 watt electric heater is less than 6,000 btu and the TT heaters are 30,000 btu. If the building is sealed so you do not loose heat around doors/windows the TT heater will do a good job and the heater shouldn't run excessively. It would equal almost seven electric heaters. The TT heater will also separate the flame from the heated air. Will it be expensive? Yes! It will also not be as easy to hide that expense like it is with electric since electric is hidden in other uses. I would buy a larger LP tank so I wouldn't have to keep running for smaller tank fill-ups. That way paying out the nose doesn't hurt so often.
Good luck with it.
Edited to add: The TT heater separates heated air from the flame if you draw outside air for the combustion chamber like TTs do.
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Beverly & Jim
Sebring, Florida
1991 T-2363 Solaris
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11-18-2016, 08:55 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: New York
Posts: 1,846
SUN #264
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Also, if you use an RV furnace that has any kind of hot air distribution, it needs 12vdc to run the fan and the control circuitry. That means at least a decent power supply similar to what radio folk use to install mobile radios in homes and offices. You'll probably need at least 15 amps capability at 12vdc out of the power supply.
That kicks your cost up even more. Unless you come up with some super fancy control circuitry, that power supply will always be drawing 110vac current, even when not in in use. It draws less when there is no demand, but it still draws.
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11-18-2016, 02:50 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,279
SUN #1830
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The costs of the elec can be mixed with the house usage so "the boss" doesn't know.
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Beverly & Jim
Sebring, Florida
1991 T-2363 Solaris
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11-18-2016, 03:43 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Maine
Posts: 3,357
SUN #2097
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Yes it will need a 12 volt supply yes it will be inefficient Rv heaters are designed to make lots of heat when they run the bottom line they are over fired. They are also a great deal more expensive than a heater designed to heat a household space.
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