Misc. Modifications and Repairs

[Rich Nagel]

Here are a few misc. modifications and repairs that I've done throughout the years on my 1991 T-2490 out in the woods (might give other folks some ideas for their repair/mod projects):


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I mounted a switch and a 12-volt "Muffin" fan in each of the roof vents. A muffin fan is similar to your computer's power supply fan, except that they are available in 12-VDC models (and usually blow quite a bit more air than their AC counterparts).

Finding power (12VDC lines) running through the roof wasn't too much of a problem. After removing the roof vents' trim pieces, I connected to the wires that power the overhead 12VDC lights.


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Mounted a Radio Shack indoor/outdoor digital thermometer (near the handrail, below the galley sink in the pic). Routed the wire for the sensor probe through the dead-space in the cabinet, and then through a hole I drilled in the floor. I then attached the outdoor sensor to a safe place under the frame of the trailer (gives accurate readings, as the sensor is always in the shade).


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Removed the flimsy TV shelf in (what was) the bedroom area, and made a stovetop cover/cutting board out of the shelf <LOL>. I attached screw-on rubber feet to the bottom of the board, and spaced them in such a manner that it's also suitable as a sink cover as well... quite handy due to lack of counter space in the galley -


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Repaired the furnace duct that feeds (what was) the bedroom area. Instead of running a straight piece of duct, I used a 90 degree connection to route the duct out of the way of the return air grill of the furnace.


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I bought a cheapish TV stand (with drawers), and after a little modification, placed it over the right-rear wheel well of the trailer. The bottom drawer of the TV stand would have been in the way of the wheel-well, so's I disassembled the drawer and mounted the face of it using a hinge (now it's sort of a compartment, instead of a drawer for the bottom one).


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I flipped the overhead cabinet doors for the cabinet in the front of the trailer. They used to open upwards, and for a tall guy like myself, it was really difficult to get into those cabinets <G>. I flipped them so that the hinge is on the bottom of the cabinet doors, and now they open downward, making it a lot easier to access the cabinets -


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Being that I removed the queen sized bed in the bedroom area (for room for my computers <G>), I'm forced to sleep on that extrememly uncomfortable lounge/sofa convet-a-bed. The supports where each side of the lounge frame is mounted were EXTREMELY flimsy looking (especially the right side), so I completely reinforced the support.


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I ran two 14-gauge Romex lines directly from the AC breaker panel (and routed them under the trailer, along the frame, and then back through the floor), and mounted two outlets directly below kitchen counter near the floor. These outlets are in such a position that they are more like outlets in your house (on a wall, and near the floor), and are 1000 times more convenient than those so-called "convenience" outlets that are in the trailer <G>!

One is connected to the galley AC breaker, and the other to the microwave outlet AC breaker. Makes it a lot easier to route the cord for my electric space/utility heater in the winter time -


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I ran AC power to the tiny compartment under the ward. I dunno what use this little compartment is normally used for (it's so small that you could only fit a pair of shoes in there!), but it makes for a great place to store my vacuum cleaner - I leave the vacuum plugged into the power line that I ran, and it's quite convenient to simply open the compartment door and pull out the vacuum cleaner -

P.S. Pic #198 above is my newer vacuum cleaner... a "Shark" handheld model, *HIGHLY* recommended! This thing has as much suction as a home-sized vacuum, and also has a HEPA filter. It comes with various attachments, including an air-powered upholstery brush. BTW, a standard coffee maker filter fits PERFECTLY over the inside HEPA filter and mesh screen, making cleanup of the filter and dumping the dirt container a snap -


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Not really a modification or repair, but FWIW: Buy two cheap picture frames, use your PC's color printer to print out some nice pics, and change them at whim depending on mood <G> -

[JohnB]

Wow Rich, that is sort of a neat back country spot. Tires on the Ford sure look good and new. Is that a 1958?

I also take it you do not do a whole lot of towing with your camper... Just joking. Must of been a job lifting it and not twisting it. Done good. I have done that on mobile homes but they have a lot more frame to them.

Thanks for sharing.

John

[Rich Nagel]

Hiya John,

Originally Posted by JohnB

Wow Rich, that is sort of a neat back country spot.

Definately quiet, and a BIG change of pace from Miami <G>!

Originally Posted by JohnB

Tires on the Ford sure look good and new. Is that a 1958?

Close, it's a 1957 (and runs perfectly). Hehe, I used to joke with my father that it was just like the old relic in the old TV sitcom "Green Acres" <G>... when my brother-in-law informed me that the tractor in that TV show was actually *newer* by a few years <LOL>!

Originally Posted by JohnB

I also take it you do not do a whole lot of towing with your camper... Just joking.

I've been telling folks, that since I've removed the axles, it's no longer an "RV" but rather simply an "R" <G>... and the "R" stands for "Redneck" <LOL>!

BTW, *ALL* of the running and road lights actually work. I wired them all together (running/clearance/park/backup/stop/etc...) and to a single switch... really lights up the woods at night when I need a little extra light <G> -

Originally Posted by JohnB

Must of been a job lifting it and not twisting it. Done good.

Actually, the initial "lift" I paid a local contractor to do (after I realized that there was *NO* way I'd be able to do it myself <G>). But... I've since added a few blocks on my own (the piers in the center where the axles used to be, and swapping out the ones at the rear from single blocks to double blocks).

That was a REAL task swapping the rear ones. I had to carefully lift each side of the rear with a floor jack (had to build up a platform just for the jack to sit on the ground), and re-do the blocks, once side at a time. Took me two days to accomplish that. You should have heard the "creaking" that the RV made when I ever-so-slowly lifted it up <G>.

The ones in the middle (where the axles used to be) turned out to be brainlessly simple <G>. I simply "built-up" the cinder block piers to within a few inches of the RV's frame, and then hammered in wood shims... turned out to be quite a simple task, and really helped to support the center of the frame -

BTW, the ones in the center I didn't add until I had been living in the RV for over a year. I realized that I REALLY needed to add something there after removing the axles, and could even feel the trailer shake ever so slightly when walking down the hall.

'Larue' over at Sunline (before they went belly-up) had seen the pics at my web site, and actually called me up on the phone and said "YOU REALLY NEED TO SUPPORT THE MIDDLE OF THAT FRAME!!!" <G> -

Originally Posted by JohnB

I have done that on mobile homes but they have a lot more frame to them.

Hehe, actually, the contractor that did the initial lift, that's their specialty... mobile home setup. My trailer is currently set up to mobile home specs, including the tiedown anchors and straps -