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08-30-2011, 04:46 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: New York
Posts: 162
SUN #1591
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I really belong in a tent
I'm so technically inept I'm reluctant to post this but ........
So, today I received from the guys in brown both the accumulator tank & Dexter axle flip kit (over/under conversion kit) that are gonna make our beautiful, comfy, well-built T-1950 more boondocking friendly. The accumulator tank, which I somehow expected to be 2 gal is but 24oz (about the size of a Fosters Austrailian lager) Will this actually work to save battery use & pump cycling ??? Did I get the wrong one ?
Also, it's now dawned on me, having a dual axle trailer, I probably shoulda ordered 2 axle conversion kits, right ?
Tents never had some complicated issues
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08-30-2011, 05:11 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: New York
Posts: 945
SUN #258
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When the pump starts like any electric motor it uses additional amperage (peak) over what amperage it takes to run it. Without an accumulator tank the pump will start and stop over and over as long as your running the water. With a tank, the pressure stored in the tank will push the water and the pump will start when the pressure drops. The savings comes when multiple starts are eliminated as the pump runs steady eliminating all those spikes in amperage draw until the pressure is up in the tank and shuts off. A larger tank would hold more energy and therefore last longer between runs. I have a 2 gallon tank and the water will run about 30 seconds before the pump comes on steady for 10 seconds or so. As a bonus, the water runs steady too and doesn't pulsate.
With the pump under the bed in the T-1950 it would always wake the other in the night when the toilet was flushed. Now there's several flushes on one charge. I seem to always get the lucky flush though.
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Paul & Sheri - Upstate New York - SUN-0258
Amateur Radio KD2KCY - VHF 146.520 MHz
2012 F150 F/X 4, 6cyl EcoBoost, Max Tow pkg
2013 Rockwood 8280WS 5th wheel
2006 Sunline Solaris T-1950
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08-30-2011, 06:39 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Maine
Posts: 3,357
SUN #2097
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I have a small Fosters size one it works fine it will stop the pump from running when there is low demand, water does not compress so it's the small draw that makes it start and stop typically a motor draws 200% on start up so the less it starts the longer the battery will last. I wish I had the room for a bigger tank but the little one sure helped a lot.
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02-04-2012, 03:15 PM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Florida
Posts: 58
SUN #3260
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I'm gonna' hate myself....but what is an accumulator tank?
I don't get out much....
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02-04-2012, 03:37 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Maine
Posts: 3,357
SUN #2097
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skyraider50
I'm gonna' hate myself....but what is an accumulator tank?
I don't get out much....
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It is small pressurized sealed tank. Water will not compress but air does so inside of the accumulator is a pressurized air chamber that maintains pressure on your camper water system even though the pump is not running. It gives you a long time between pump cycles. Just about every house has one either on the heating system or well pump often called expansion tanks.
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02-04-2012, 03:43 PM
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#6
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Florida
Posts: 58
SUN #3260
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I DO have one on my house.
Thank you for the explanation
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02-06-2012, 04:55 AM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Illinois
Posts: 76
SUN #2612
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Since we are on the subject, my pump runs constantly. I have to manually turn it on and off. Am I missing something, like a pressure switch or something? I have an '87 Satellite 2153.
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Terry & Marsha/Northeast Illinois
1987 T-2153, 2016 Ford F250 Super Duty 4x4
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02-06-2012, 05:24 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: New York
Posts: 2,909
SUN #93
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RockDodger - sounds like you have a leak somewhere......
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Kathy & Leo SUN 093
Central Adirondacks of New York
2013 Rubicon 2900 Toy Hauler
We loved our 2007 T-2499
2010 Ford F-350 4x4 Lariat Super Crew Dually Diesel
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02-06-2012, 05:32 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Maine
Posts: 3,357
SUN #2097
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Yep leak or switch in the pump. Usually if it's a leak it will cycle often if you have a tight water system it can stay on and only cycle when you turn on a tap but if it runs constantly it's the switch.
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02-06-2012, 01:24 PM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Illinois
Posts: 76
SUN #2612
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Hmmmm...well I guess I'll have to hunt for the leak then cause it isn't making itself apparent at this point. Thanks.
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Terry & Marsha/Northeast Illinois
1987 T-2153, 2016 Ford F250 Super Duty 4x4
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02-06-2012, 05:58 PM
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#11
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12,651
SUN #89
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Rock,
A leak can do it, but a check valve in the pump that leaks back to the tank can too.
In the pump is a check valve that is suppose to seal off. When the pump runs it draws through that check and prevents any back blow by. If you do not find any puddles somewhere then a leak in the check valve will leak right back in the tank. If may be a big enough leak that some blows by when pumping and will not let you reach max pressure to shut off.
The pressure switch is in the end of the pump and the check valves are sport of part of the pump diaphragm. It may be your pressure switch is stuck on as well but I would think more like dirt is lodged in your check valve first. They do sell pump rebuild kits or entire new pumps.
This is the standard camper pump. Do not know exactly which one you have, they have many. Once you find the parts and model you have, search the web. Shurflo is sold many places
Classic Series Water Pump - SHURflo
Hope this helps
John
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Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC
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