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Old 02-11-2009, 06:44 AM   #1
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Dexter EZ Flex Equalizer Upgrade With Many Pic's

Fellow Sunline Campers

This past weekend the weather cooperated and I was able to rebuild the spring bushings and install the Dexter EZ Flex Equalizer. For those thinking about doing this upgrade, here are the details of how install went. For those wanting to do this themselves, this is somewhat invloved and should only be attempted if you feel confident you can do this safely.

First off I bought what Dexter calls the heavy duty shackle and wet bolt kit upgrade along with the EZ Flex. And I highly recommend doing the heavy duty shackles and wet bolt kit upgrade even if you do not do the equalizer upgrade. The bronze bushings, greaseable pins and heavy shackles are worth it and make the suspension last longer for not a lot of cost.

I’ll do this post mainly with pic’s to keep the typing down and so you can see install in action. There are others ways to do this install using different tools and methods, just this way fit the tools and equipment I had.

First off what comes in the kit. You get all the parts you need for the rebuild. There is also instructions.


Here side by side you can see the difference in the standard shackle links and the heavy duty ones. The thicker links provide more bearing surface to hold the shackles more rigid as the holes in the standard ones were starting to wear.


Now to the install. First is to jack up the TT. I lifted both sides one at a time and placed qty 4, 6 ton jack stands at the wheel area of the frame and leveled out the tongue jack so the frame was resting on all 4 jacks even along with the tongue jack. Place the floor jack behind the axle on the main frame as you are jacking either side of the TT. A word of caution, do not trust just a jack to hold the TT up for this type of work. You need heavy jack stands with excess capacity for stability.


I also removed all 4 wheels. Prior to jacking the TT up I put 4 bottle jacks under each axle to just touch the spring U bolt plate of the axle. More on the bottle jacks later and why I need them.


Here you can see the bottle jacks. You can raise/lower this jack so the springs you are working on are loose. You can feel the shackle wiggle when there is no load on them. This will hold the axle when you pull out the pins.


Next you start by taking the pivot pins out. I squited up all nuts with penatrating oil to help the removal process. NOTE: Make sure you place a wrench on the back side of the pin when you take the nut off. If not, you can strip the pin in the frame hanger hole and enlarge the hole to where the new pin will spin. I used an impact wrench, if you do not have one, a ½ breaker bar will be needed as they get pretty rusted on.


Once removed, I screw the nut on a few threads and use a center punch (prick punch) to drive out the pin. Once you break the pin free, you can take the nut off. I used the nut to prevent the punch from slipping off as sometimes the pin is really rusted in.


Then move to the shackle.


Now the spring is completely loose from the frame on this one side. The jack is holding this end up and the opposite side of the TT spring is holding the other end. You can now easily move the spring and axle up and down and left to right on the end you are working on.

You can now take off the other spring pins and the equalizer and shackle. Both axles are now free from the TT on this one side.


Also here is what you can run into. A galled up nut. Fortunately I had air tools and could power this off, but by hand this would be a real deal to contend with. It may be you have to crack the nut to get them off if they strip. I only had one gall up, and it was enough.


Now comes to drive out the old nylon bushings. You can see here how worn they can get.




Just use a small blunt nose punch to drive out the nylon bushing. On the spring ends by the frame hangers, lower the bottle jack and the spring eye will be exposed to drive out the bushing.


Now comes the install process. Find one of the old pins and grind off the serrations to use as a pilot pin to press in the new bushings.


Then you need a bushing press kit. I used a 12” large C clamp and some 1/2 sockets. The socket needs to be large enough the thread end of the pin will not get hung up in it.


And then nice and easy press in the new bronze bushings. The Dexter instructions say you can drive in the bushing using a protective pin but I like the screw clamp that can be controlled better and leaves no impact marks.


Here is the bushing when done. And the spring dropped down at the hanger so you can work on it.




Next is inserting the pins. I start with the frame hangers. Again need a different socket to go over the grease fitting for pressing. Also to note is the hole where the grease comes out. The hole needs to be horizontal and I have it pointing towards the play end of the bushing. Meaning the hole to point to where the play will be when running down the road. If you have the hole straight up, then the weight of the TT is on it and the grease has a hard time getting in plus the bushings wear material plugs up the hole. So my front hanger pins have the hole pointing forward to the front of the TT. (At the 3:00 O’clock position while facing)


I then grease up the pin and the serrations and insert in the hole. I use the bottle jack to lift the spring. I can also grab by hand the entire end of the axle and move it left to right as needed to get a test pin in to line up the hole/spring in before putting the final one in. Then nice and even press in the pin using the clamp. Make sure the head of the pin is all the way to the hanger.




Once the hanger pins are in, the EZ Flex is next. They have a swedged nut as a lock nut. There are impressions in the swedged end. The nut goes on so the swedged end is outwards so you do not fight it all the way on.




Then grease up the pin real well and the steel bushing ID of the equalizer. You can also use Never-sieze here. Intent is so that the pin does not rust solid in the equalizer. Over the years I have had better luck using grease then Never – seize but both work. Then get another socket setup and press the EZ Flex bolt in.


Then comes the shackle links. Again remember the lube hole and if the hole is on the tight side or loose side as the TT tows down the road. Since one end is pushing the spring and one end pulling the spring, they change. Since the link is on an angle it is on the more loose side. I also pre grease the pins by hand before inserting.


The shackle links may flop right on or need a little help. Again the C clamp to the rescue for the help.


Then you need to torque all the nuts. The spring and shackle pins where torqued to 50 ft lb. The center EZ Flex bolt to 75 ft lb. This is in the Dexter directions. NOTE: Make sure you use a wrench to hold the head of the pin while torquing so it will not strip out the serrations.


Here is the final install


And a close up on the EZ Flex installed.


A few other notes:
1. I bought my EZ Flex from Trailer Parts Super Store – EZ Flex for $241.95 plus shipping. You can buy it right off the Dexter web site for about $2.00 less but there online store was down and I was also buying other axle parts from Eastern Marine. I am not affiliated with them, but this is where I bought mine from and had a very good buying experience with.

The kit was for the 33” nominal axle spacing and up to 6,000 lb axles. Note: 33" does not exactly always mean 33" between the axles. It all depends on the spring length you have. HenryJ found this out for me. My T310 axles are actually 32" apart due to spring length. Henry's is 31 1/2" The kit was Dexter E-Z Flex Suspension Kit, K71-652-00

2. I did the upgrade on my T310SR, a 10,000 lb GVWR camper using 5,000# axles that where Al-Ko. The EZ Flex is not and exact line up with the Al-Ko equalizer but I did a CAD layout and the shackles take up the majority of the difference.




In my case this will my AlKo Equalizer, the Dexter EZ flex will raise the camper theoretically a little less then 3/16”. More like 1/8” when loaded and maybe less as they are springs.

I also tried the fit of the EZ Flex on my 2004 T2499 which has Dexter running gear and it was a perfect match. This is a 7,000# GVWR camper with 3,500# axles.




3. It seems a concern of the Dexter EZ Flex by the competition is that the rubber is exposed to sunlight. To combat this I will use 303 Protectent on the rubber and may even make a thin plastic sleeve or high grade electrical tape to cover it.

I have not yet towed with the new EZ Flex so I can’t report on that part yet. In my case this was part of a suspension upgrade/overhaul as now that I have tight bushings so I can more accurately measure the axle alignment. And I did and now I know I’m really off on both axles. That is the next phase to attack.

Hope this helps someone contemplating doing this upgrade.

John
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Old 02-11-2009, 07:44 AM   #2
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John,

Very nice post, thanks for taking the time to explain and show the process.

We plan on getting the same system installed on our trailer this spring.

Hutch
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Old 02-11-2009, 07:45 AM   #3
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Re: Dexter EZ Flex Equalizer Upgrade With Many Pic's

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB
I then grease up the pin and the serrations and insert in the hole. I use the bottle jack to lift the spring. I can also grab by hand the entire end of the axle and move it left to right as needed to get a test pin in to line up the hole/spring in before putting the final one in. Then nice and even press in the pin using the clamp. Make sure the head of the pin is all the way to the hanger.
Hi John,

One thing that's always confused me is why are the bolts put in with the head (and in some cases the grease fitting too) on the inside? It makes it much harder to grease that way if there is a fitting.

Jon
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Old 02-11-2009, 01:36 PM   #4
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Jon

On which way the grease fitting points: The pins physically fit either way. On the T310SR, (a 10,000# frame) I made a decision to have the fitting point in on purpose. Now why??

The first reason was mechanical disassembly. The nuts have to come off first and then these get froze on, you have to fight them under the TT. This is the biggest reason I re-did it this way.

The next area that get’s complex is actually getting to the fittings. The spring hangers you may be able to get to most all the time if they where on the outside. The equalizer area, that one maybe not pending which way the equalizer was swung.

In my case, the T310 has a slide which means it is up off the ground more. More room under the unit. I also have a hand grease gun with 30” of flex hose plus a multiangle grease fitting socket on the end of it. I can reach thru the Equalizer area on get onto the fitting from behind while still out side on the tire side. The grease gun fitting can do a 180. And if I did it on the tire side, I have to contend with the tire and the grease hose and the multi angle grease socket on the end of the hose.

You can change the physical grease fittings to 90 degree fitting and this would help if you wanted to get to them from the tire side. But again the day you have to take them apart, the nuts are on the wrong side.

In my case I can either lay on the ground and have ample room to get to the fitting on the back side due to the higher camper. And I can go in from the front with my multi angle grease gun hose and socket. So I can do front and back. And if it gets to be too much a pain, I can change grease fittings to 90 degree fitting but still on the inside if I need to.

This one is a true personal choice to put fitting in or fittings out. I have some friends that have done both in and out.

Now on the 7,000 like the T2499, that is a low rider… Not so easy to crawl under her. On this model I would still use my multi angel grease socket on the end of my flex hose, but I would go in from the equalizer areas and reach around to get to the fittings. And I might even spend a few dollars to change them to 90 degree fittings. But still on the inside.

Here is the larger frame TT tires setup. T310


And here is the smaller frame TT tires setup. T2499


Hope this helps, grease on…

John
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Old 02-11-2009, 02:07 PM   #5
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Great post, John. Like you say, not for the timid... or those short of jacks and jack stands!

There's lots of information for researching on Dexter's site. Try
http://www.dexteraxle.com/resource_library and pick what you want from the pop ups to download a pdf. The EZ flex stuff is under "Service Kit Instruction Sheets", the 5th pop up. There are 2 dimensions of EZ flex, but the K-71-652-00 John used will likely fit most Sunlines. But... check that you don't have this equalizer--it will not fit:
http://www.cerka.ca/comersus7f/store...Product=213022

This local company for me, also has some good info. Follow this link:
http://www.cerka.ca/catalog/32-K71-652-00.asp and then click on the part no. in the table. Note that K71-652 is the complete rebuild kit John used with wet bolts and bronze bushings. K71-654 is the EZ flex only and not really worth it unless one has already done the wet bolt upgrade separately.

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Old 02-11-2009, 09:42 PM   #6
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John, I'm starting to wonder if you write manuals for a living

Nice post and very informative
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Old 02-12-2009, 11:00 PM   #7
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John,
I'm very interested on how the equalizer affects the tt and tv. I have been considering the conversion. I'm thinking if the trailer rides better than the tow vehicle has to ride better.

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Old 07-03-2009, 01:18 PM   #8
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E-Z Flex Update

Dexter has a special offer for only $149.67 on the E-Z Flex that will fit most Sunlines. No time is specified, but this is about $100 off and a really good deal. See the link at the end of this post.

I finally got around to installing the E-Z Flex equalizers at the beginning of May, with my brother's help... or the other way around. We've been traveling for most of May and June and I now have over 9000 mi. towing with theE-Z Flex and want to report some of my experience. JohnB's procedure, at the top of this thread, is the gold standard, and since he did mostly photos, I'll do the anecdotal--sorry for the length First...

The Theory
When the leading axle drops into a pothole, the equalizer pivots allowing the trailing axle to rise up somewhat and absorb some of the shock. When the leading axle bumps out of the pothole, the process reverses, and then repeats as the trailing axle hits the pothole. The equalizer pivoting back and forth helps to spread the jolt over both axles lessening the impact. It also causes rapid wear of the cheap teflon bushings in this area. In theory this works so well that virtually all tandem and triple axle trailers use equalizers. To fully appreciate the action of the equalizer, watch it flip back and forth, and the axles move up and down, as a tandem axle trailer rolls over a speed bump. If the equalizer improves the ride of a tandem axle trailer, it only makes sense that adding a rubber cushion, and calling it an E-Z Flex, will further dampen the jolt transmitted by one axle to the other.
http://www.modmyrv.com/2009/03/27/rv...ring-equalizer

The Benefits
These teflon bushings have less than 20,000 mi. on them.


Anyone with more than 10,000 mi. should consider the complete E-Z Flex upgrade just to get the wet bolts and bronze bushings. Both the wet bolts and the E-Z Flex equalizer are available separately, but not really worth it as the OEM equalizer is not greaseable and and the center pivot will keep on wearing; and it's so much work installing one or the other it just makes sense to do both together and get the bonus of improvement in ride.

The E-Z Flex is a real heavy duty product compared to the original and the full kit also includes shackles that are about 3X the thickness of OEM. I didn't weigh it, but the weight of the replacement parts must be at least 3X the weight of the parts removed.

DIY?
From my experience, if you already have all the tools in JohnB's procedure, you should be able to do this upgrade. If you have to buy a socket set and a torque wrench first, it's best left to a professional. Although one person could do this job, two mid-60's old guys can too. The installation requires far more muscle than finesse and is simply easier with one person under the trailer and one beside it. Four hands also make lining up the C clamp, with sockets on each end, to press in the bushings and bolts, much easier. My brother and I did the complete job from getting out the tools and jacking up the trailer to lowering it down and cleaning up in about 6 hr. That includes close to an hr. lost on problem solving. Counting breaks and lunch time, and not trying to set any world records, this is basically an all day job.

Procedure
The 2499 is a low slung trailer compared to John's 310SR. We did not feel comfortable raising it high enough to get 4 bottle jacks under the axles. My brother had one very low profile bottle jack that fit under the axle when it was lifted just high enough to remove the wheels. So we worked on one axle, one bolt at a time, starting with the outside spring eyes and then ending in the middle with the E-Z Flex. A floor jack would work here too, but really clutters up the work area.

We were not able to drive out the really worn teflon bushings with a punch, but found that the solid shaft and sharp edge of the blunt punch made a good tool for levering them out. I worked them out just far enough to get two vice grips on them and then pulled them out. We did have to cut one with a hacksaw blade that was rusted in too tight to budge. The center bolts on the equalizer were so tight the impact gun couldn't turn the nuts. We used a breaker bar with an impact socket on the nut and the bolt to keep it from spinning and even then had to add an 18" pipe to the outside breaker bar to break the nut loose. I had planned on doing this upgrade for over a year already and had greased and oiled everything at that time and now used penetrating oil, a week and also the day before the job. These nuts were just that tight.

We also could not drive out several of the old bolts and used the C clamp to press them out. The 8" C clamp is totally maxed out by this job--don't use a light Chinese one. Putting in some bolts, especially the larger E-Z Flex ones, required slipping a hex wrench over the C clamp handle for added leverage--and we even turned each serrated bolt slightly to line it up with the grooves already cut into the hanger by the old bolt. Not all the bolts go in evenly and just when you think the C clamp is going to break or the bolt won't move any further, it pops in with a big bang. Tapping the end of the C clamp with a hammer when it gets this tight helps too.

I was really looking forward to doing this job with my brother, who is a retired engineer with loads of experience not to mention a fully equipped shop. But it meant doing a major upgrade 600 mi. into a 7000 mi. trip. There are 38 items in the Dexter kit and I counted them out at home to make sure everything was there, but completely missed that one wet bolt was 0.5" longer than the others. This is a big problem as the nut is tightened onto a machined shoulder that provides the exact clearance needed between the spring eye and its hanger. Ironically this was the last bolt I pulled out of the bag. I still didn't notice the extra length and we pressed it in and took off the C clamp and sockets, thinking we were all done... and there it was sticking out 0.5" further. Luckily my brother had a metal bandsaw so got good square cuts on a piece of metal pipe that made a sleeve over the bolt. That plus a washer brought us exactly up to the machined shoulder for tightening the bolt and that's the way it still is right now.

Greasing
The factory installation has the nuts to the outside and 99% of people doing this upgrade themselves will choose to keep the nuts to the outside despite the reduced accessibility of the zerks on the heads of the wet bolts. It's just far easier to do it this way than lying on your back holding onto an impact gun or torque wrench. And it would be even worse if you ever had to remove these pieces again--try using a breaker bar and 18" pipe while lying on your back.

I have just an 18" flex hose on my grease gun and can easily grease all fittings after removing one wheel. This is not particularly onerous as it also gives a better look at inspecting the running gear etc. I then also give the hubs some fresh grease while spinning the wheels so that is a bonus. Most people don't tow far enough to grease these bolts more than once a year and it simply becomes part of the annual spring maintenance when you should really pull the wheels off anyway.

It's important to grease all the bolts and bushings before assembly as it can be difficult to get grease into them after. I had one bolt that would not take any grease and two that were very difficult to pump. The E-Z Flex is not a problem--it seemed to be the spring eyes. When I greased it again after towing just under 4000 mi. all the fittings took grease, but one still required far too much pressure. At the next greasing, at about 7000 mi. all fittings took grease with a typical amount of pressure. It would seem the bolts and bushings need to wear in a little first. All fittings took one or two pumps and the grease squeezing out was nice and clean.

After 9000 mi. Towing
The E-Z Flex is not a shock absorber. The characteristic TT bounce seen on some road surfaces is still there. The biggest improvement is over bumps like railroad tracks that come and then are gone. Even though the E-Z Flex may lessen some bumps, there are still bigger bumps out there. You very quickly get used to the new status quo--after miles of repeated pounding on poor highways, you'd swear there's no improvement at all. My experience is also colored by the fact I upgraded my truck to Bilstein shocks just before doing the E-Z Flex. All I can say is that the combination of Bilsteins and E-Z Flex is a huge improvement for my rig. On the same stretch of eastbound Interstate, outside Flint, MI, where I had to slow to 50 mph to reduce the harmonics of bucking created by just the right spacing of concrete expansion joints and wheelbases, I was now able to travel at 60 mph with absolutely no bucking.

While it's hard to quantify the ride benefits of the E-Z Flex, to me it is worth it just to get the HD parts and a greaseable suspension while replacing some very worn out pieces.

Conclusion
Right now Dexter has a special price on the full E-Z Flex kit.
http://www.dexteraxle.com/inc/sdetail/28009

Don't worry about axle centers and spring lengths. If you have the OEM Dexter 013-104-02 equalizer and double eye springs, this kit is an exact fit.


If you have something else, read JohnB's post again. He was able to use the E-Z Flex even with an Alko equalizer. Don't assume you can use the somewhat similar Trailair Equaflex. It's for 4000 lb. axles and up and has a much taller shape than the Dexter 013-104-02 equalizer.

Henry
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Old 07-12-2009, 07:49 AM   #9
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Hutch and others interested...

I was poking around on this thread rereading it yesterday and followed Henry's link to dexter's site and found the whole kit to be on sale for well under 1/2 priced!!!!

Even if it's a spring project for you Tom, it might be in your best interest to get the parts now... I orded mine yesterday... $162 delivered. Months ago when I checked it was $330 plus shipping

Hope others can take advantage of this deal... not sure how long it will last.

....Take precaution to make sure you're getting a compatible upgrade to you existing trailer suspension parts before ordering.

http://dexteraxle.com/inc/sdetail/28009

Take care,
Lode

PS. Thanks John and Henry for the 'how to' and extended information on this upgrade. I know exactly what I'm getting into now with my only fear being ornery nut heads and frozen rusted bolts.
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Old 08-29-2009, 09:16 AM   #10
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John, Great photos and great description on the installation.

I have recently been looking at doing this upgrade as well as installing the retrofit kit to add shocks to our Sunline. Not sure if this is going to be a fall or spring project yet, but I definitely want to have it completed before our major trip next year.

One another forum, when you were posting about this mod, you indicated you were also looking at installing the retrofit shock kit. I was just wondering if you have done the shock mod yet and if so, how the mod went.

With regard to the shock mod, would you recommend buying the bracket in the kit, or is it something that is fairly fabricate make up myself. I am very good with working with metal and generally good at fabricating things. Looking at the photos of this bracket, it looks fairly simple and straight forward to fabricate, but without actually seeing it in person, I cannot be 100% certain.

I am also wondering if you would if you would recommend doing either of these mods first or if they could be completed at the same time.
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Old 08-29-2009, 09:41 PM   #11
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To add to HenryJ’s comments, yes this is a worth while mod in my opinion. If your not going to do the EZ Flex at least do the bronze bushing upgrade and heavy duty shackles. They sell that as a kit too.

Like Henry stated, you do notice the ride difference the day you have added the EZ flex. Or more so the 1st and or 2nd trip after installing. You can tell the bumps are not as hard. However after the first few trips your memory get’s reset and then the smoothness you now have becomes normal and it is hard to remember what it was like before.

PTHutch did the upgrade and did a bounce test per say. He has a bumpy road to one camp ground he goes to which always leaves the inside of the bed room bounced around with things on the bed. (Rear bed room) Once he upgraded, he could tell on that same trip to that camp after the install his stuffed lamb who lives on the camper bed only tipped over and cloths on the bed stayed put verses laying on the floor somewhere…. So it’s stuffed lamb approved… . See Hutch for more details. Point is, it does help.

Now to the shocks. I will add shocks in combo with the EZ flex in time. Each do different things. The EX flex helps take some of the hard bang hits into the TT from a leaf spring rigid equalizer. That shock into the TT framework is dampened faster and smoother with the rubber joint.

Shocks do different things. Once over the bump look down the TT and watch it sine wave up and down flexing the frame and the camper unless the wave settles out. By adding shocks that wave dampes out quicker and smoother which is less flex in the TT frame/siding etc. And on my 32 footer that wave gets’ my attention. So yes I’m in for shocks too as they also give you some left to right stability damping as well as the length wise wave damping. The left to right damping helps reduce/minimize sway effects. While Sunlines are well balanced as a rule, damping effects for sway reduction is always a good thing.

Now can you do the EX flex and the shocks upgrade at the same time? Sure. I was planning on it but ran into an issue that prevented me from doing it in the spring.

I bought 4 Monroe Magnum gas shocks and there retrofit kit. Well after the order was placed, Shock Warehouse called about the shock mount kits. Monroe does not make many of the kits and once they are out, they are out for months on end until the next run. I asked if they would be in within the next several months and they said they have no idea, so I canceled the mounts and just received the shocks. I have heard this was a problem and sure enough I ran into it too.

So I made 1/2 of my own so far. See here in this pic. A piece of sch 40 pipe welded onto the spring U bolt plate. You have to take the plate off to do this so the heat will not affect the springs but since I was adding new axles at the time, it was not a problem. The Monroe lower mount works similar.




Here is where I ran into the issue that due to timing, I have not made it back to, yet. I have enclosed tanks. My shock mounting options are different. Originally before the new axles I could fit the shocks I bought between the tire and frame like this.




However that was on my old axles. You need enough clearance between the frame, shock and the tire and the shock to not rub. On my old axles they where so messed up in the toe condition (actually has 0.53 deg toe out) that it created room to mount a shock outboard.

Well when I fixed the axle alignment issue and put the wheels where they are suppose to be, the upper shock dust tube was a size to size fit between the tire and frame. Well on the rear axle this is not an issue. I can just move the shock inboard, like this.


However that option does not exist on the front axle unless I want a shock in my fresh tank and have to redo the fresh water setup. And that was not going to happen.

So I need to find an accordion rubber boot to go over the shock piston shaft and take the top dust tube off so I can mount the front axle between the tire and frame. I’ll get back to this but other things took priority and then we where into camping season.

The top shock mount would bolt to the frame and actually look similar to the Monroe one they sell. Except on mine I would not drill thru the frame with the large 5/8 mounting bolt. Again the on front axle mount that large bolt would be in my fresh tank. So I'll make a bolt on bracket that uses about 4, 3/8" bolts to bolt it to the side of the frame.

If you are handy with metal, I see no reason you cannot make your own mounts if you cannot get the Monroe retro fit kit. Monroe also makes shocks and kits like this. These are from another brand.





And so does Dexter now have a shock kit like that they sell. They may not make the shocks, but sell them and the kit to weld on.

Good luck how ever you do yours.

John
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Old 08-30-2009, 02:27 PM   #12
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John, Thanks for the pics of how far you got with the shock mod as well as the headup on the clearance issue you have run into. I like the fabrication job you did on the plates for the shock mounts, I hadn't thought of that. Good idea.

With regard to the bushing, I had them changed last year when I did the axle flip as they were completely worn out. Unfortunately, at the time I was unaware of the wet bushings otherwise I would of had the wet bushing installed at the time,

Seeing the pics and the issues you have run into with the shock clearance, I think I will do the EZ flex kit install first with the upgraded shackles and wet bushings first. Once these are installed, I will then take a look at doing the shock mod so I am not being faced with having to deal with a potential clearance issue at the same time.

We also have the rear bedroom and the items in it get bounced around pretty good in it depending on the roads we are on. I am looking forward to ths EZ flex helping out in this area.
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Old 08-30-2009, 06:43 PM   #13
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Trailblazer, just in case you aren't aware of this company; they're just down the 401 from you in Milton.

http://www.cerka.ca/catalog/32SHOCK.asp

Henry
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Old 08-30-2009, 06:52 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by henryj
Trailblazer, just in case you aren't aware of this company; they're just down the 401 from you in Milton.

http://www.cerka.ca/catalog/32SHOCK.asp

Henry
Thanks for the link. I was aware of the company and was thinking about ordering the EZ flex from them.
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Old 08-30-2009, 08:21 PM   #15
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Hi Guys

Heads up on that Dexter shock kit. If you have and I beam frame, that type of mount may have a I flange interference. It all depends on how far out they hang.

I have seen that type work well on I beam frames and some that have hit. The only friendly heads up is, check the clearance and ask if it can be returned if they do not fit. Just holding the upper bracket in place with the shock in it will tell you real quick if you have a problem or not.

Good luck and for sure post your outcome. We all keep learning more on each TT repair/upgrade.

John
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Old 08-31-2009, 08:39 AM   #16
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One quick comment on shocks. My old Sunline TT did not have them. The new fifth wheel does. I'm not sure if this is the only difference, but one thing I do know -- the fifth wheel rides incredibly smoothly. I'm not brave enough to try it, but I suspect a cup of water left on the counter would not spill going down all but the bumpiest of roads.

I leave things unsecured in this rig that I would never have dreamed of before. It's nice to arrive at camp and be able to open the fridge, without the heaviest loose item promptly falling on my foot as the door is opened.

After reading this post (which was great by the way, thanks JohnB) I'm taking a trip to the storage to see how my suspension is designed, and weather I may need the equalizer upgrade as well.
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Old 08-31-2009, 08:49 PM   #17
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Jeff, if you have not already gone, take the camera. Seeing the shock mounts and suspension would be helpfull.

Thanks

John
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Old 09-01-2009, 06:54 AM   #18
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Sorry John, I didn't get this in time. In fact I didn't end up looking at the suspension at all, because as I pulled up to the coach I realized I had forgotten a bunch of bananas in the cabinet over the sink!! Thankfully, it had only been a couple days. Last time that happened it was a fruit fly extravaganza, since they had sat for three weeks!

I'll try to get pics in the next couple days and post an update.
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Old 10-29-2011, 07:41 PM   #19
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Hi Folks

In case you come across this older post, I have had an issue with the rubber in my equalizer. I did not have a towing issue and Dexter replaced the unit under warranty.

To link to that alert post, see here Dexter EZ Flex Rubber Issue

The unit works well and despite this issue I would still recommend the upgrade.

Thanks

John
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