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Old 06-28-2007, 09:34 PM   #1
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Dexter Axle Over-Under Conversion Kit

Hi Everyone,

For those of you who always ask about the Over-Under conversion, here's some pics to show a job completed. I can't help as to why you can't just put the axles under the spring, but this is what a complete setup from Dexter looks like. If you have any questions or want a detailed pic of something, the trailer is home right now, so I can go take pics tomorrow.

Here's a little background info. The trailer was originally covered by my dad (he designed and built the whole cover) and designed to fit in a 7' garage door. Since the conversion, it wouldn't fit and dropping the air out of the tires didn't work. That's why you see these small wheels on here- they're just for storage. In order to (safely) take the trailer on the road, the wheels and tires must be changed out with stock size 15x7 rims and ST205/75/R15C Goodyear Marathon's.

Here's the trailer just after it came out of the garage:



Close up of small wheel:


Extended Equalizer and spring bolts with grease zerks (added at time of conversion, along with new bushings)


Here's some close up's:





Here's some farther away shots showing the height difference. As you can see, the casters on the back were very important at the stock height. Now, they rarely hit, if ever.



I thought about putting a tape measure from the ground to the frame to show the difference, but I thought about that after I had the wheels installed and jack put away. I wasn't about to pull it off just for a pic.

For those of you who noticed, I did hook up the chains before hitting the road.

Also, sorry for it being so dirty. That's why I brought it home, was to wash it . It sat outside while one of the cars had to be worked on, so that's how it was dirty.

Another thing, for those of you following, this was the first time I towed a trailer with electric brakes with my Ex. Towed great and brake controller worked great, though I'll admit the trailer was empty!

Jon
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2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9473.8 (as of 6/18/21)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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Old 06-28-2007, 10:05 PM   #2
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Jon

Thanks for the pics. To add to your set, here is the Dexter axle before the kit was installed on my TT so folks can see what it looks like before the kit.



Jon, question:

Did you Dad add that 3/8 or 1/2" bolt screwed into the all thread rod coupling to help the axle for rotating with the kit added? Or did that come with the kit?

PS. Your dad is very handy and creative with that trailer.

Thanks
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Old 06-28-2007, 10:14 PM   #3
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Re: Dexter Axle Over-Under Conversion Kit

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunline Fan
Hi Everyone,

Snipp..

I can't help as to why you can't just put the axles under the spring, but this is what a complete setup from Dexter looks like.


Jon
Jon compare these 2 pics.


What Dexter did looks very right by adding that top saddle on. What do you mean "what can't you just put the axles under the spring"

Can't figure out what you are up to.

Thanks

John
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Old 06-28-2007, 10:15 PM   #4
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John,

I just asked him and he said that part came with the kit. He also mentioned he welded both brackets on there. He thought they didn't need to be, but it's better to weld it than just rely on a little bolt.

Jon
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2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9473.8 (as of 6/18/21)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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Old 06-29-2007, 12:24 AM   #5
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John,

I was asked a long time ago about why the axles just couldn't be put under the springs. I didn't have the pics and hadn't looked that closely at the whole thing in a long time, so I couldn't remember, but there was a reason.

I guess it could be put under the the spring if the one spacer wasn't welded on. Just put the spacer on top and set the whole thing up upside down. The theory is there, but there is some reason why it can't work like that.

I was hoping that whoever asked that could see these pics and it would answer their question.

Jon
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2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9473.8 (as of 6/18/21)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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Old 07-01-2007, 05:50 PM   #6
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Top Saddle

The top saddle is needed to keep the axle from rotating when the brakes are applied. The drop in the axle needs to be in the same position as it was when the axle was on top of the spring for the magnet and brake shoes to work correctly.
I Have pictures of my sunline at different stages of the axle flip, But can not figure out how to post.
I did not use the dexter conversion kit. I found saddles and welded them on top parallel to the ones on the bottom.
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Old 07-01-2007, 09:05 PM   #7
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Pats-fan

I fully agree we need the top saddle or the spring pack will rotate on the axle.

To post a pic. First you have to have your pic's on a photo-hosting site of some type that is open to public access. Then they are basically linked to this site.

Try to keep your pics to 640 x 480 pixels. If you make them wider then that it scrolls the entire page. Also try to keep the size do less than 100 meg. 50 meg works great.

See this how to link.How to post pic on Sunline Club

If you have any problems, let us know. Glad to help and glad to se the pics.

IS the kit from Dexter just the top saddle?

John
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Old 07-02-2007, 05:34 AM   #8
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Dexter Kit

The Dexter kit includes the saddle with studs built in to allow you to secure it to the bottom saddle, the purpose is to eliminate welding. However what changed my mind to go with the welded saddle, is the instructions with the Dexter kit recommends welding the new saddle so why not just go with a welded saddle??
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Old 07-02-2007, 08:43 PM   #9
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I need a little clarification. My T-2553 goes to the dealer for the axle flip next Monday and I want to have it done correctly. I understand John's statement that the welded saddle would keep the spring pack from rotating under the stress of braking. Therefore, I understand Pats-Fan's decision to have two welded saddles in parallel. Pats-Fan. I do not understand your comment about the effect of the axle position on the proper functioning of the electric brakes unless you are referring to diminished efficiency in the event of spring rotation on the axle. I guess the bottom line is that the Dexter kit should be welded and parallel saddles should be welded in place also: Is this correct?
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Old 07-03-2007, 05:55 AM   #10
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Dexter Kit

Al
I do not think you have to weld the dexter kit, but they do recomend welding. My point is if you are going to weld the saddles from the kit, why not just weld the saddles, that are less than half the price of the kit.
As for the brakes, I thought you was saying to just flip the axle and use the existing saddle, in that case the brakes would not work.

You will like the way the trailer tows after you have the axles flipped. When it is being done, the suspension has to come apart, adding the Dexter heavy duty kit or EZ-flex, should only be the price of the parts.

Do not forget about the hitch height, make sure the drop bar will work with the change in height.
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Old 07-03-2007, 07:51 PM   #11
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Pats-fan,
Thanks for the response. I ordered the Dexter flip kit. Is the Dexter heavy duty kit part of the flip kit or should I add that to the work order? My reason for installing the kit is two-fold: (1) The back drags pulling out of the driveway and (2) I plan to store the trailer in my barn in the winter, but I don't think I'll get up the bank incline without additional clearance. I have no problem with its towing characteristics. If it tows better, that's like icing on the cake. I already talked to the service manager about changing the hitch height. Thanks for the suggestion. Just out of curiosity, how much does the hitch height change?
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Old 07-04-2007, 12:15 AM   #12
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Al,

I think ours had to raise about 3-4 holes on the drop bar. I just pulled that trailer for 4 hours today on the highway and it tracked perfectly. The only time I went off onto the rumble strips was when I was passing a 5th wheel on a hill. I slowed down some and he kept the same speed if not sped up. I think the draft is what pushed me over the line. Whenever I pass a fellow RVer/trailerer, I like to move over in the lane as much as possible to eliminate that pull as much as possible.

I think the mileage could have been a little better with the trailer at stock height (not as much sticking above the TV), but I don't think it would be a large difference. I got 10.6 going about 70-72 on my speedo, which was about 65-68 on a cop's watch. Farther up north when it got more open and traffic sped up all together, I kicked it up to about 75 for most of the time, and it did fine. The mileage had been about 11.2-11.3 when I was going slower, but the total trip mileage was 10.6.

Jon
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2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9473.8 (as of 6/18/21)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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Old 07-04-2007, 10:24 AM   #13
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Please don't take this the wrong way, but do you think it is wise to tow at those speeds? I know you have probably done your homework, so I assume you know your what tires are rated for, but why the "need for speed".

A small emergency maneuver at 55 MPH is heard enough, let alone 10 MOH more?

Just curious?
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