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Old 09-06-2010, 07:22 AM   #21
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Now any ideas on how to preserve it? Steve Collins was talking about the varnish. Steve what brand etc would that be?
John,

I have a can of Krylon UV-Resistant Clear Acrylic Coating sitting on my desk. I bought it because I have to re-do our Sunline camp sign as our address changed.

I was unhappy with the yellowing of the marine spar varnish that I used on the first version of the sign. It was pretty yellowed when you saw it last year and has gotten worse.

The Krylon is available in matte and gloss finishes. I think it may be the way to go on irregular surfaces like aluminum siding on our TT's. If it was me applying it, I'd get a 1/2" or so coverage on the siding itself all around the sign, and apply at least 3 coats on the whole sign, and perhaps several extra coats around the edges.

There is also a wet method of applying large vinyl signs that allows re-positioning until you have it just right. Short version: lightly soapy water (Ivory Snow is real good for this) applied to whole area. Strip both backings off the sign and place it where you want it. While it's still really wet, you should be able to slide the sign around and get it exactly where you want it. The pro sign guys use a 4" soft rubber brayer (Brayer - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia) to work out the water from under the sign starting at the center and rolling to the edges in all directions. The soft plastic putty knife that John used is good for this, too, but the brayer is probably safer to use on silk screened surfaces.

One trick you can do with sign application: To make sure you have the sign where you really want it, temporarily place it with masking tape or something, and then walk away and look at it from a distance. Your eyes will tell you if it is right. Another reason for the wet application method.

The sign guy who taught me this also said that if you end up with an air bubble, not to worry. If you are going to clear coat the sign, use a pin to pop it and work it down with your fingers. If you dry apply the sign, the air bubbles can even be left if they are very small and they will go away. If you wet apply, you have to pop them to get the water out. But with wet application, it is very easy to move the bubbles across the sign with the brayer, so ending up with any bubbles is unlikely.
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Old 09-06-2010, 08:30 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Steve Collins View Post
John,


There is also a wet method of applying large vinyl signs that allows re-positioning until you have it just right. Short version: lightly soapy water (Ivory Snow is real good for this) applied to whole area. Strip both backings off the sign and place it where you want it. While it's still really wet, you should be able to slide the sign around and get it exactly where you want it. The pro sign guys use a 4" soft rubber brayer (Brayer - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia) to work out the water from under the sign starting at the center and rolling to the edges in all directions. The soft plastic putty knife that John used is good for this, too, but the brayer is probably safer to use on silk screened surfaces.


The sign guy who taught me this also said that if you end up with an air bubble, not to worry. If you are going to clear coat the sign, use a pin to pop it and work it down with your fingers. If you dry apply the sign, the air bubbles can even be left if they are very small and they will go away. If you wet apply, you have to pop them to get the water out. But with wet application, it is very easy to move the bubbles across the sign with the brayer, so ending up with any bubbles is unlikely.

Steve, as I was reading John B's post "decal installation 101" popped into my head.....when Leo owned his body shop that is exactly HOW he put decals on......when he had the contract for the local cable company....which changed its name almost twice a year......we (yes we) would have to remove the old decals and place the new ones on an entire fleet of trucks.....Leo used the wet method for years!!!!!
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Old 09-06-2010, 08:31 PM   #23
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H'mm the 5er's. May be. I'll be right next to a Sunline 5er this Saturday and I'll look at Trailblazers.

Steve Collins, Steve thanks for the tip on the Krylon UV-Resistant Clear Acrylic Coating that sounds like it may just work. And I may be able to use it on the decals on the corrugated siding. On the flat filon sticker the Helicopter clear tap is working great now for over a year. I saved my front one and it is holding up very well.

Poppy and Nana. So Leo is a decal wizard. I sense at least 1 topic of discussion at the M & G this weekend. Thanks!!

John
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Old 09-07-2010, 06:10 AM   #24
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Steve thanks for the tip on the Krylon UV-Resistant Clear Acrylic Coating that sounds like it may just work. And I may be able to use it on the decals on the corrugated siding. On the flat filon sticker the Helicopter clear tap is working great now for over a year. I saved my front one and it is holding up very well.
John, when you look for the Krylon, "UV-Resistant Clear" is in large letters on the can, and "Acrylic Coating" is in much smaller letters. I had to stop and read the labels on several different cans to figure out which to buy. They also make a regular Clear Acrylic Coating for use indoors with no UV additives.

The helicopter tape would be my first choice on any smooth surface. I sure wish it was available years ago when I did a bunch of graphic work on ambulances and other emergency vehicles.
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Old 09-09-2010, 09:02 PM   #25
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This is something that was on my mind back a few years ago when I was re-doing the exterior of my '92 Solaris to the '97 appearance. I had a hard time finding anyone who had decals (forget '92 altogether) and Sunline had just closed down (couldn't make the auction). I finally took a ride to Stoltzfus and picked them up there, but I figured with such a following for Sunline products, it wouldn't be long before everyone needed some sort of decal. My thought is this; The fact that so many Sunliners communicate on this forum and will be needing these decals at some time, is a plus, b/c the more popular ones can be made by a sign shop for a bunch of customers cheaper than if everyone went looking to have their own done. The first one would be the most expensive and then subsequent decals would be less. Maybe the thing to do now is to take a poll on which decals from which years are anticipated to be needed based on the age. Maybe the ones that are about 5+ years old (like John's) would be the best first candidate since there is probably an immediate need. Later, the 2005-07 orange ones could be done. Maybe enough of the 10 year old decals would be wanted. If a few members who are in need right now could pool their resources, they could get this started.
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Old 09-27-2010, 08:16 PM   #26
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John, I believe that decal is the side/rear decal from the Fifth Wheels. I got one too from Stoltzfus because I heard they were a little different. It seems to be a smaller version of the really large front FW logo. When looking at the FW side/rear logo in the original application, it does look more oblong/tall than the normal trailer logo.

Jon
Jon

Yup, I do believe my new decal is the 5er decal. Or at least it is the same as the one on the side of Trailblazers 5er.
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