Here's a few more details. I had to go to class before and didn't have the time to gather everything.
Unfortunately, I don't have much documented because my dad did them, and if I wanted him to do them, he had to do them when he wanted to, and I wasn't always around, so I didn't get pics.
The only pic of the bottom of a door I have it from my '98, and that's because I thought it was starting to rot, but I pulled it off and discovered aluminum! But once I tightened up all the screws, the flexing was gone.
Here's a few thoughts:
- The frame attaches in pretty much the same way. You should expect to replace most if not all the screws along the bottom, because if the wood is that rotten, the dampness rusted the screws away to nothing.
- If you choose to go with a new panel on either side, you will have to shave the edges down. A simple guide and clamp will help you do this with a router. The new panel is thicker than the original, which in a way, is a good thing. I don't know how much, I know I have the guide my dad used at home; he might have written the dimensions on, I'm not sure.
- I believe you will have to shave the board down some, it isn't exactly the full 2x2. I can't remember if it was the height or width.
- I'd recommend using pressure treated wood to replace it...it didn't come originally like that, hence the extensive damage.
- You may, scratch that, most likely will have damage to the side boards too. In that case, you can either replace just the damaged part or replace the whole thing.
- If just the bottom board is damaged, you might be able to get away with not removing any panels. Would make it more difficult, but I think it could be done.
- If you do remove a skin, I would highly recommend adding a center support from the lockset frame across the door to the other side. It will require cutting out some foam, but it will make the whole door so much stronger.
- ***MOST IMPORTANT***
I have yet to mention the cause of this problem. The wonderful skin they put on the doors has bubbles in the plastic. This caused water, not much, but enough over the years, to seep down between the plastic and aluminum and the wood soaked it up. I would VERY STRONGLY recommend you put a nice bead of clear or white silicone along that bottom edge and possibly a little up the sides to prevent water from intruding in the future. If you end up replacing the outside skin and have a shaved edge on the bottom, that will help some, but it might be a good idea to silicone it anyway.
Here's some other, non-close-up pics:
2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9473.8 (as of 6/18/21)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR