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10-23-2010, 10:16 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Michigan
Posts: 854
SUN #1546
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Sunline Essentials
I have some time now but I know there areas some essentials I need to get....Suggestions? Where to purchase (good prices that you have found)
Looking at some of these products for leveling
SURGE PROTECTOR
Water Pressure Regulator
Digital meter to check battery voltage
Heavy duty black/grey hose kit
BATTERY CHARGER to trickle charge my battery this winter
This guy has lots of good information too
__________________
__________________
Joan & Miss Emme Lu Who
Full Timing in T-1950 2005 Anniversary Model
1997 6.5L Chevy Turbo Diesel Truck
"Pure Michigan"
Facebook: Apackof2 for the Rd
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10-23-2010, 11:33 AM
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#2
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Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Michigan
Posts: 6,156
SUN #123
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It doesn't have jacks already on it? I thought all the Lippert framed units had jacks under them, maybe not.
Anyway, I would most certainly go with the scissor style "leveling" jack and not the "stabilizing jack" with the thing that goes coach wide and has an arm on either end that drops down. We've had some experiences with those stabilizing jacks (not on the Sunline though) were if the situation is on dirt/uneven ground, if you try to pick up the trailer whatsoever, the jack will be very hard to turn to do that. If you happen to be in a situation where you haven't locked all the tires and the tongue jack starts moving, this style jack will just bend like it's nothing. At least if the scissor jack starts sliding off whatever block you use or even if it's just on the ground, I think it should still hold the trailer up and not bend horribly.
Not to mention, the main force contact point for lifting on the stab jacks is way in from the frame. It does depend on the unit, but it could be up to like a foot in from the frame rail on each side. So that means that any lift you get will mostly be put on the small channel for the jack frame and not applied directly to the frame rail, so this will cause quite a bit of bounce inside the unit too.
Here's what has worked well for us for battery tenders. We've been using them for a few years now for all the stuff since a couple of the Sears ones we had started acting up. I know some have mentioned on here in the past that they like a charger with a desulfate mode too, but I'm not sure what brand has one. Regardless though, I would plan to take the battery off the trailer and put it either inside your garage or in your basement and put it on charge there. Also, make sure you get a 12V charger and not a 6V.
Battery Tender Plus - Batterytender.com
Jon
__________________
__________________
2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9473.8 (as of 6/18/21)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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10-23-2010, 07:12 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: New York
Posts: 1,846
SUN #264
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Check WalMart for the bits and pieces. They carry most of what you want and probably a very low price, too.
They'll have a charger like you want, too.
__________________
'12 F250 4x4 Super Duty PowerStroke 6.7 diesel
2011 to present: '11 Cougar 326MKS
1999 to 2011: '99 Sunline T-2453
SUN264 * Amateur Radio kd2iat monitoring 146.52
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10-24-2010, 09:07 AM
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#4
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Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 2,285
SUN #128
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That's a nice link you have Joan. Lots of great information consolidated in one spot.
We purchased most of what you have on your list at WalMart. In addition, we did get a high flow water filter at Camping World.
__________________
Pam
Lance 1475 "Snoopy"
2012 GMC Sierra 3500HD 4x4 D/A
2012 Arctic Fox 30U, SUNLINES - 2006 2753 "Tweety", 2007 QUE "QUEtSE", 2364, 1660
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10-25-2010, 09:33 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Michigan
Posts: 854
SUN #1546
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No I am sure its has stabilizing jacks but I was looking at some leveling products they have. The idea of having to drive back and forth on boards to level the rig isn't very appealing especially when you are a newbie, alone and not great at backing up (yet)
This is nice but its only for single axle trailers or pop ups
Just looking for an alternative that isn't too pricey, like automatic levelers
Thanks for the link to the trickle charger for the battery. I definitely plan on taking the battery off the rig and keeping in my garage with a charge
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunline Fan
It doesn't have jacks already on it? I thought all the Lippert framed units had jacks under them, maybe not.
Anyway, I would most certainly go with the scissor style "leveling" jack and not the "stabilizing jack" with the thing that goes coach wide and has an arm on either end that drops down. We've had some experiences with those stabilizing jacks (not on the Sunline though) were if the situation is on dirt/uneven ground, if you try to pick up the trailer whatsoever, the jack will be very hard to turn to do that. If you happen to be in a situation where you haven't locked all the tires and the tongue jack starts moving, this style jack will just bend like it's nothing. At least if the scissor jack starts sliding off whatever block you use or even if it's just on the ground, I think it should still hold the trailer up and not bend horribly.
Not to mention, the main force contact point for lifting on the stab jacks is way in from the frame. It does depend on the unit, but it could be up to like a foot in from the frame rail on each side. So that means that any lift you get will mostly be put on the small channel for the jack frame and not applied directly to the frame rail, so this will cause quite a bit of bounce inside the unit too.
Here's what has worked well for us for battery tenders. We've been using them for a few years now for all the stuff since a couple of the Sears ones we had started acting up. I know some have mentioned on here in the past that they like a charger with a desulfate mode too, but I'm not sure what brand has one. Regardless though, I would plan to take the battery off the trailer and put it either inside your garage or in your basement and put it on charge there. Also, make sure you get a 12V charger and not a 6V.
Battery Tender Plus - Batterytender.com
Jon
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__________________
Joan & Miss Emme Lu Who
Full Timing in T-1950 2005 Anniversary Model
1997 6.5L Chevy Turbo Diesel Truck
"Pure Michigan"
Facebook: Apackof2 for the Rd
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10-25-2010, 09:35 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Michigan
Posts: 854
SUN #1546
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Thanks just haven't made it to Wal-Mart yet
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Collins
Check WalMart for the bits and pieces. They carry most of what you want and probably a very low price, too.
They'll have a charger like you want, too.
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__________________
Joan & Miss Emme Lu Who
Full Timing in T-1950 2005 Anniversary Model
1997 6.5L Chevy Turbo Diesel Truck
"Pure Michigan"
Facebook: Apackof2 for the Rd
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10-25-2010, 09:36 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Michigan
Posts: 854
SUN #1546
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Thanks...its one of my favorites......trying to get to Wal-Mart....
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tweety
That's a nice link you have Joan. Lots of great information consolidated in one spot.
We purchased most of what you have on your list at WalMart. In addition, we did get a high flow water filter at Camping World.
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__________________
Joan & Miss Emme Lu Who
Full Timing in T-1950 2005 Anniversary Model
1997 6.5L Chevy Turbo Diesel Truck
"Pure Michigan"
Facebook: Apackof2 for the Rd
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10-26-2010, 11:22 AM
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#8
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12,876
SUN #89
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Hi Joan
You mentioned a battery charger to trickle charge your battery. I "think" you mean a float type charger to keep your battery healthy all winter long. If you mean to charge it back up from a very drained state that is a different type.
This is one of the ones that desulfate the battery.
Here is there main web site Battery Chargers by BatteryMINDers.com
Here is the ones I use. BatteryMINDer® Plus 12 Volt 1.33 Amp Charger-Maintainer-Conditioner (Desulfator) | All | Battery Chargers by BatteryMINDers.com
If you search on that model number on the web they can be found for like $40. There are 2 other brands out there that have the float charge and desulfate mode too so I'm not brand hung up just these have worked well for me.
You do need to charge the battery full up before putting these on. You can do that with the TT converter. Once charged then the Battery Minder Plus keeps it up and conditions the battery.
Hope this helps
John
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC
Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
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10-26-2010, 11:25 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Ontario
Posts: 663
SUN #597
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Hi Joan,
I like the RhinoFlex hose for dumping. It is fairly rigid and pulls out to the length needed unlike the the slinky kind which is... like a slinky and goes where it wants to. However, most people store the Rhino in the bumper--the slinky ones just coil up in a relatively small bin.
For leveling I have wood and the lego block style Lynx Levelers--a similar, but not compatible product is made by CW. The lego blocks work well if you have a spotter as it is a pretty small square to stop on. One down side of lego is that it will slide on a hard pad like asphalt and is best used on bare ground. I know wood planks are a bit of a pain, but they work much better if you don't have a spotter. I park on a one piece 2X10 at home, but carry smaller pieces for each wheel on the road. I have found cpg. to be fairly level and usually find one lego block or 2X8 to be enough. Don't let the tires hang off a block, it stresses the cords.
The jacks installed by Sunline are stabilizing jacks, not leveling jacks. BAL sells a power version, but also says not to use it to lift the trailer. With the hand crank you really can't lift the trailer either and that is why they are stabilizing jacks--they keep the trailer from bouncing while you're walking around inside. The proper way to use these jacks is to level the trailer as close as possible with the tongue jack and blocks under the wheels. With what's left, lower the stabilizing jacks on the low side first and turn the crank a good 1/2 to 3/4 turn further. That will lift the trailer somewhat more and get you pretty close to level. Then lower the jacks on the low side and give the crank another 1/4 to 1/2 turn just so it feels good and solid.
Backing onto blocks is much easier if the truck is at a slight angle to the trailer as you can see the blocks easier. You can also feel the resistance give as the trailer wheels roll up the block, so it can be done without a spotter. You're not going to learn everything on the first trip. Maybe tour some campgrounds solo and look for good spots so you can go back later with the trailer and not be worried about what predicaments you might get into. RV parks are also easier than most SP so are a good place to practice and build your confidence. We barely made it into our site at a WI SP that had 90° sites on a narrow treed road. Sometimes you can also get really good satellite views of campsites and I always check RV and SP when traveling just so we don't get surprised--although the WI SP was in full leaf on the satellite and I couldn't see the entrance to the site. I don't remember what your rig is, but wide mirrors, and a convex spot, are essential, and you should look into adding them if you need to.
It is quite possible to destroy a refrigerator with an out of level trailer. Those most at risk are the ones who don't tow level and then don't unhook at the cpg. A good rule of thumb is if you can walk around inside the trailer and it feels ok, it is level enough. So you don't need to worry if the level isn't right on. It should look level outside--although terrain can be deceiving--and feel level inside.
Henry
__________________
2019 F150 3.5L Max Tow
2014 Arctic Fox 22G
2005 Sunline T-2499
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10-26-2010, 11:38 AM
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#10
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12,876
SUN #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apackoftwo
No I am sure its has stabilizing jacks but I was looking at some leveling products they have. The idea of having to drive back and forth on boards to level the rig isn't very appealing especially when you are a newbie, alone and not great at backing up (yet)
This is nice but its only for single axle trailers or pop ups
Just looking for an alternative that isn't too pricey, like automatic levelers
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Hi again Joan
Saw this. None of those BAL scissors or stabilizers are intended to lift the TT to level it. They are intended to stabilize only, aka take out wiggle motion from sitting on rubber tires and suspension.
If your are after actually lifting to level like on a motor home, they do build such a device but it uses hydraulic cylinders to lift the camper. A while ago there was a person who added them to their Sunline even, a 2003 camper about ~ 27 feet long even. He was a real mod kind of guy to create one that automatic. As for price, I do not know exactly but if you are talking hydraulic leveling it can get close to ~$800 and up.
With that said how do you do this by yourself on the wood or plastic block types? While mine are short and the DW tells me when to stop there are other ways to do this.
A longer board that covers 2 wheels length has been used. It weighs more but gives more freedom of when to stop. You can add a small bump stop on the back so you can feel it in the truck. Only heads up is if your dump valve is right behind the tire the long boards can kick up if you drive off them fast, so go real slow off them.
I have seen folks use the plastic blocks and they make them long enough to covers both tires, again allowing more room for when to stop.
And until you have mastered the backing up on situation, may just use what ever leveling block you want and place a 2 x 4 block about 12 inches long behind one of the truck tires spaced back the distance you want to back up. If this is on the drivers side rear wheel you can see it from the cab and feel it when you reach that distance, then just stop.
Hope this helps.
John
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC
Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
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10-26-2010, 11:43 AM
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#11
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12,876
SUN #89
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I see Henry and I where typing both at the same time. Henry what is the name of your Battery Minder that desulfates?
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC
Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
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10-26-2010, 11:43 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Ontario
Posts: 663
SUN #597
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Here are a couple more of the bits and pieces you were asking about :
DC voltmeter
AC voltmeter 1. I have this one and it does the job, but a digital one with a couple more functions is also available.
AC voltmeter 2
Water pressure regulator. Just the cheap basic one is good enough. It should be on the cpg. tap so everything downstream, including the hose, is at the reduced pressure.
Henry
__________________
2019 F150 3.5L Max Tow
2014 Arctic Fox 22G
2005 Sunline T-2499
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10-26-2010, 11:47 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Ontario
Posts: 663
SUN #597
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Hi John, we're still typing at the same time. Are you retired now??
I have the one you have as well as this Cetek.
Henry
__________________
2019 F150 3.5L Max Tow
2014 Arctic Fox 22G
2005 Sunline T-2499
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10-26-2010, 11:50 AM
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#14
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12,876
SUN #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by henryj
Hi John, we're still typing at the same time. Are you retired now??
Henry
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No on lunch break.... Now have to get back to work... Wish I was retired
Joan, on the voltmeter, do you want a real meter with test leads or the simple plug in type like Henry pointed to?
I have both but use them for different things.
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC
Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
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10-26-2010, 12:04 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,131
SUN #64
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Quote:
I have seen folks use the plastic blocks and they make them long enough to covers both tires, again allowing more room for when to stop.
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Lynx Levelers also makes these chocks that hook onto the leveler blocks (see below) allowing you to back onto the levelers until you back against the chock. I have a set and they work very well.
We also make one long ramp, then remove the tiles that end up between the tires if we need them for other purposes.
It is also handy that if we need more than one tile in heighth, you can off-set the tiles so the two layers are interlocked (think laying bricks) so they don't slide.
Mack
__________________
2004 Dodge Ram 2500 Club Cab 4x4 CTD
2007 Sunline Solaris T-276-SR: Misty Blue/Cherry
2001 Dodge Ram 1500 Reg Cab 4x4 OFF-ROAD
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10-26-2010, 09:30 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 1,515
SUN #768
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Joan, I know after you have backed up onto blocks/boards to level a few times you will be very comfortable. The first few times are always the worst. Maybe some practice in a school parking lot on a weekend will lessen the fear.
Here is one tip for backing up onto blocks/boards when alone. Put the boards down behind or in front of the tires to raise. Use a yardstick or string or locking tape measure (whatever) to measure how far the tire needs to move to be where you want it to end up. Take that measurement and lay it on the ground next to the truck where you can see it from the drivers seat. Make a visual reference from one end of the yardstick to something on the truck. Move truck until that reference is at the other end of yardstick, string, whatever. You will now be very close to where you want to be. After enough times you will just know how far to move by just looking at the ground.
PS. I used to use boards until I got 2 10 packs of plastic Lynx levelers. They are lighter than boards and store nicely in their bags even when wet.
__________________
Gene & DW Ginny
2002 Sunline T-2363
2008 Toyota 4-runner 4wd 4.7L V-8
Reese Dual Cam straightline - P3 Brake controller
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10-26-2010, 09:52 PM
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#17
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Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Michigan
Posts: 6,156
SUN #123
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John & Henry,
You bring up a good point about the stab jacks. Indeed you cannot completely level the TT with them. I've just found they seem to have more abilities to make minor adjustments over the style that has the arm coming down.
I'm not sure if they said in the Sunline manual or in the instructions for the jacks themselves that you cannot lift the trailer enough to get the tires off the ground. I certainly make use of these jacks when changing a tire because I'll put one down after I've lifted it with another jack (just as a safety backup), but I certainly could not even attempt to lift the trailer with it.
Even though they aren't designed for total leveling, BAL advertises them as such: BAL - Innovative Products for the RV Industry
This is the style I'm not a fan of: BAL - Innovative Products for the RV Industry
Jon
__________________
2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9473.8 (as of 6/18/21)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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10-26-2010, 10:40 PM
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#18
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12,876
SUN #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunline Fan
John & Henry,
You bring up a good point about the stab jacks. Indeed you cannot completely level the TT with them. I've just found they seem to have more abilities to make minor adjustments over the style that has the arm coming down.
I'm not sure if they said in the Sunline manual or in the instructions for the jacks themselves that you cannot lift the trailer enough to get the tires off the ground. I certainly make use of these jacks when changing a tire because I'll put one down after I've lifted it with another jack (just as a safety backup), but I certainly could not even attempt to lift the trailer with it.
Even though they aren't designed for total leveling, BAL advertises them as such: BAL - Innovative Products for the RV Industry
This is the style I'm not a fan of: BAL - Innovative Products for the RV Industry
Jon
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Hi Jon
I agree we are both not fans of the arm type on a TT unless it is a real small one.
The scissors type they are more power full however there is a play on words in the term leveling. See the note at the end of item number 5
BAL - Innovative Products for the RV Industry
Here is a quick excerpt "NOTE: Do not raise any tire off the ground by using your jacks. If you apply too much pressure to the jacks, your doors and windows may not close properly, or you may bend the jack leg(s)."
And here in the instructions they caution about excessive weight in several places. They just do not declare what excessive is but to not use it to lift the camper or change a tire. http://norcoind.com/bal/downloads/ma...2024012%29.pdf
This much I know, the Bal's on my T310SR will not hold. In fact they unscrew themselves under load right in front of my eyes. They did this even when the camper was almost empty. They never did that on the T2499 but they for sure to on the T310SR. A mod this winter/spring is to make a locking handle or tab on them as the wiggle is even worse when they back off.
They will do some lifting, like says 1" of play but to lift the entire side of a TT say 3" like you would on backing up on blocks is something I do not think Sunline had in mind nor Bal for a point load in the TT frame that far from the spring hangers of the TT. They only want you to jack the frame up not exceeding 18 inches from the axle when changing tires.
The smaller the TT, the easier the lifting. Why mine slip is truly a weight thing I believe as the mechanical advantage backwards thru the screw just turns the acme screw. And the more I lube them the worse it gets.
For sure, get the scissors type, but they have limits too.
John
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC
Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
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10-27-2010, 09:46 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,131
SUN #64
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Quote:
PS. I used to use boards until I got 2 10 packs of plastic Lynx levelers. They are lighter than boards and store nicely in their bags even when wet.
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We carry 4 sets (40) of Blocks, Two Chocks, and 1 set (4) of the cap blocks. We use them every where, under the tires for side to side leveling, under the jacks with a cap block (we've found that the jacks are the most stable if the "diamond" formed by the jack is as close to square as possible), and on the rare occasion, under the tongue jack if we need more height than the wood block we normally use there.
Each bag has enough room for a cap block, so all four sets only take up a space 8" x 32" x 10".
__________________
__________________
2004 Dodge Ram 2500 Club Cab 4x4 CTD
2007 Sunline Solaris T-276-SR: Misty Blue/Cherry
2001 Dodge Ram 1500 Reg Cab 4x4 OFF-ROAD
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