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Old 10-18-2009, 10:31 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PTHutch
Norm,

Another simple way to turn drawings displayed on your computer screen into a .jpg file is to copy the screen to the clipboard using the “Alt+PrtScrn” short-cut keys.
Then run your Paint program and paste the clipboard into Paint (e.g., via “Edit > Paste” command or “Ctrl+V” short-cut keys..
Then save is out as a .jpg file using the “File > Save As” command.

Looking forward to seeing your trailer design and construction develop.

Thanks for sharing.
Hutch
If he's using Vista he can also use the Snipping Tool to turn whatever is on the screen into a jpg.

Start/Programs/Accessories/SnippingTool. I have a shortcut on the taskbar because I use it so much.
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Old 10-19-2009, 04:44 AM   #42
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Thanks for the Vista tip. We just bought two new laptops, replacing our 7 year old Dell and one of them has Vista. Amazingly we're able to buy two brand new laptops for a total of $625. I wish every thing had the price curve of computers. Thanks for the tip.
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Old 10-22-2009, 09:24 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Honda03842
Thanks for the Vista tip. We just bought two new laptops, replacing our 7 year old Dell and one of them has Vista. Amazingly we're able to buy two brand new laptops for a total of $625. I wish every thing had the price curve of computers. Thanks for the tip.
I'm glad to be of help. It's not only computers, the scanners and printers are as well coming down. I was pleasantly surprised to be able to buy a new printer/scanner/copier for less than I paid for a printer alone some years back. We use desktops at home but the laptop goes everywhere we go.
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Old 04-30-2010, 07:41 AM   #44
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It's begun. Before starting the reconstruction of our trailer this summer I decided to weigh it one more time before the modifications. During the process I noticed something I had never seen before.

While weighting the hitch weight with our bathroom scales, I noticed that it varied with the wind by 5 pounds or so out of 175. Now we only have a very moderate gusts today, I would guess around 10 knots.

I have committed to expand the trailer. Last night we purchased the material to extend our trailer by 7 feet in length moving it from 15.5 feet to 22.5 feet. It looks like I'll get that 1950 I've always wanted.

The addition to the frame will be aluminum with the goal of weight minimization. The addition primarily consists of adding a walk around bed extending seven feet out the rear. Originally we had decided on a 1950 style bed but as we approach 70 we decided that walk around would be better in the future and it only added another foot and handier storage.

With the walk around bed we end up with 8 under bed draws and two under bed hampers. This has partially been accomplished by raising the bed to a heaight of 18 inches.

Tonight I will post pictures of our 'final' floor plan, knowing that these things always change. This project, like the homemade trailer posting, requires virtually a full rebuild, virtually nothing will not be reconstructed.

As you'll see tonight the new design has an L shaped kitchen with about 8 feet of counter space and that does not include the refigerator. When we meet other campers, the kitchen is the key to happiness for most women.

My primary goal is not to exceed 2500 pounds, the challenge of this project. To do it I'm spending some money that manufacturers would not typically spend, aluminum frame (floor and walls), aluminum wheels, single fiberglass propane tank, no OSB, minimal wood except for cabinets, tankless hot water, no propane furnace, more tonight,,,,,
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Old 04-30-2010, 06:35 PM   #45
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Today I started disassembling our Sunline, removing the spare tire and the trunk from the rear bumper of our trailer.

This will allow me to remove the rear bumper in order to add an additional 7 feet to the length of our trailer. This additional 7 feet provides room for a walk around bed and a total reorganization of the interior of the trailer.

The bedroom consists of an elevated bed; the base of the bed is 18 inches high.

On each side of the head of the bed is a standing four draw cabinet. Above each cabinet is a hanging closet. Between the hanging closets and above the head of the bed is a two bay overhead cabinet.

The foot of the bed has a four foot long counter that is constructed above the foot of the bed, extending over the bed about 1.5 feet. This is designed to provide adequate space for one's feet. Above the counter is a pantry for food storage. This pantry is within two feet of the axle.

The bed is higher than normal to provide useful under bed storage with easy access to under bed space via 8 draws and two hampers.

Two draws at the rear of the bed , one above the other, are accessible from outside. These draws are 4 feet wide x 2 feet. Depending upon what we decide to store here, we may change this to four smaller draws.

On each side of the bed there are two additional draws, one above the other, for bedding and clothing storage they are 1.8 x 2 feet. Also on each side of the bed is a clothes hamper.

There are two draws at the foot of the bed, one above the other 1.8 x 2 feet. These are used for bulk food and paper goods storage. They pull out into the kitchen. The following drawings show the floor plan.

The first is a top view.




The second is a side view.



The brown rectangles under the bed represent the 8 draws and two hampers. The bedroom contains 12 draws, 2 hampers two hanging closets and 2 hampers. The bedroom TV mounts to the rear of the Pantry at the foot of the bed.

The frame to support this is made of aluminum, bolted to the existing steel frame. The aluminum frame is topped with a 2.5 inch thick floor. .

The floor consists of a top and bottom layer of ¼ inch plywood with two inches of foam between the plywood. The elements are glued to each other and screwed and glued to the floorThe new floor will be extended to the entire trailer, improving insulation and stiffness, adding to the beam strength of the trailer. This floor will eliminate all existing floor OSB.

The aluminum frame needs to be electrically isolated from the steel. A standard zinc based coating will be used to prevent anodic issues.

As well as the addition of the frame, the axle will have to be moved about 3 feet. While moving the axle, the axle will be flipped to get additional clearence, raising the trailer with respect to the ground. Presently the trailer is 12 inches off the ground and the flipping should provide 16-18 inches of clearance.

Following the Sunline tradition, at least in my little Sunline, all heavy, or potentially heavy elements are located directly over the axle or very near to the axle. The exceptions are the battery and the propane tank. This means I have to move all fluid tanks, the refrigerator and stove. In general the ends will contain light items, the bed at the rear and the couch at the front. Both of these elements will be of light construction, ala Sunline methods, no Flex steel furniture here.

Our goal is to use as much as possible from our Sunline, including the windows we have come to love. We will use the windows directly out of our trailer. Even in continuous 80+ degree daytime weather in Florida during April this year we never felt the need for air conditioning with our jalousie windows. We noticed this was not the case with most of our bigger rigged neighbors.

We are providing space for a traditional window type air conditioner (not to be visible from outside the rig) for future summer trips to really hot climes. The air conditioner will be built into the refigerator's floor to ceiling cabinet

Heat. We will not use the Sunline's gas furnace or the water heater. Our plan is to use radiant heating in the floor and a tankless propane water heater. As a backup for electric heat we will have a ventless propane heater and of course our electric blanket.

Kitchen. The kitchen is basically L shaped and 8 feet of counter space is large for any trailer. There is also 8 feet of overhead cabinets above the foot of the bed. Two four foot overhead cabinet sections, one above the other. There is another four feet of overhead caqbinets above the stove and sink area. As well in the kitchen area besides those in the pantry, there are 12 more draws in the kitchen.

Across from the sink, is a cabinet that contains our 4.1 cubic foot, all electric refrigerator. We have traveled for two years, some 17 months of the last 24, with it and have found it easily meets our needs. Beside the refrigerator cabinet is the bathroom.

Bathroom. The bathroom is 6 x 2.5 feet. One end contains a 30x30 inch shower. The other end is a toilet with a Overhead cabinet above it. A small counter is on the outside wall with a even smaller sink.

Tanks. The grey tank is located immediately above the axle and holds 23 gallons. The black tank is below the toilet sitting on the floor of the trailer and holds 10 gallons. The water tank is under the kitchen cabinet and holds 18 gallons. Since the tankless heater contains little water, this represents a loss of 6 gallons. I hope to be able to increase this either with a new tank or some other means.

Living area. The living area consists of an L shaped couch. One end of the couch has a 2.2x 2.5 foot table that easily provides enough space for two to eat. This table is expandable to sit 4. Above the L shaped couch is 12 feet of overhead cabinets with 5-6 bays. Under the couch are 8 draws, similar to the configuration of draws under the bed.

At each end of the front portion of the couch, there is a draw accessible from the outside only. One contains the 2 batteries, the other draw contains the propane tank. The propane tank is a fiberglass propane tank that weighs half as much as a steel tank. These two compartments need to be adequately vented.

We have plenty of draws and storage space in our extended Sunline. The goal isn't to carry a lot, but rather to have a place for everything in an uncrowded manner. Like the new floor construction, no OSB will be used in any cabinets. Presently our little Sunline's cabinets are loaded with OSB. Our goal is a much lighter construction.

As I progress, I will add pictures to the site. My next posting will be of the frame.
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Old 04-30-2010, 06:37 PM   #46
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I should have mentioned that the side view does no show the living area, only the bedroom and kitchen area.
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Old 05-04-2010, 07:58 PM   #47
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It has started. The Aluminum for the frame is here and I've begun disassembling the Sunline.

Today I removed the water heater, and gas heater after fighting the boreing bees, the attic squirrel, replacing loosened siding from this winter's wind storm and cutting down a maple getting too close to the house.

The disaasembly is a learning experience in itself on two levels. First you can see how the rig is put together, really not to obvious until you begin taking it apart. Second, you get to evaluate the design on a different level than traditional usage.

I hope that I can complete this project over the next six months. It certainly will be a full time effort.
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Old 05-23-2010, 02:48 PM   #48
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Continuing to make good progress disassembling the trailer. I must say both my wife and I feel a measure of sadness, having had so much fun traveling all over the country in it.

The disassembly is interesting. In the process we have discovered a fair measure of rotted wood. Any where a screw enters timber, paritcularly screws that are on the outside screwed into wood, are an avenue for water and rust.

As well on our trailer, that has aluminum on all six exterior surfaces, it appears contact between steel and aluminum can promote metalic deterioation. The bottom of our trailer is aluminum bolted to steel through an internal wood frame. Often where the aluminum touches the steel but paricularly where they are bolted together, the aluminum is literally eaten away. The biolts also go thru the steel cross members witht he aluminum sitting on top of the cross members. In addition to the aluminum being eaten away, rus ta the bolt location is more severe.

In our rebuild the existing steel frame will have to mate with the new aluminum frame. We are using a spray on product called ECK to prevent galvanic deteriation between dissimlar metals.

Today I dropped the gray tank that mounts against the bottom of our Aluminum bottom. There was about a half inch of sand and pebbles all over the central region of the tank. After removing the tank I painted it black. I noticed the side that faces the elements in beginning to change color after 28 years; I assume the Sun has attacked the outward side.

By this weekend I should be in the picture mode. I hesitate to take pictures of the disaasmbly process, a little too sad.
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Old 05-23-2010, 04:38 PM   #49
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Two other things I learned during disassembly. When we bought the trailer the floors were a little spongy. I assumed that the OSB must have gotten wet somehow and lost strength. To improve the floor I drilled holes on a foot centers, using the floor pattern and squirted foam in each hole. This stiffened the floor. Today I took apart a good chunk of the floor and found that the OSB was not rotten buit somehow it lost strength. I can only assume the wooden cross members that support the OSB lost stiffness.

Today in taking apart the floor I could see the foam. First it penetrated the fiberglass insulation and stuck to the aluminum like glue. second, in areas the foam went from OSB to aluminum and to the side wooden supports. I would say it did the job.

There are a number of three points in our trailer where there are electrical (ground) connections to the frame. These screws usually go throught a bus bar or ground tab of some sort, thru the floor, thru the aluminum pan and than thru a beam or cross member. In my trailer all had corroded, reducing the effectiveness of the connection. I replaced one of mine with a stainless screw.

One of the problems is the floor compresses with age loosening the connection, corrison makes tightening tough and of course where are they. Before today I thought I had only two; found a third one behind the black tank against the wall for the breaker box.

I should also mention that the gray tank was held to the bottom by six brackets with two wood screws each. The screws were impossibly rusted after 28 years. It turns out the steel screws go through the aluminum bottom into three wooden cross members that support the OSB floor. Fortunately we hardly ever travel with anything in the gray tank because this definitely looks like a failure waiting to happen. Of course again it worked for 28 years.

I will say as we progress thru the trailer we wonder what our 67 year old bodies must look like on the inside, They're definitely looking woren on the outside. WHile I work on the trailer Ginny's been going thru boxes in the cellar, trying to further reduce our 'stuff'.. She keeps going down memory lane, finding pictures from when we were 16.... time is a wicked foe but I'll take all we can get.

Safe travels
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Old 05-23-2010, 05:57 PM   #50
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Very efficient use of space, and a clever way to get more counter space and a pantry. Can't wait to see some photos.
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Old 05-23-2010, 06:33 PM   #51
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Tomorrow I'm going to install the gray tank. Since it represents the first of the new construction, the first picture tomorrow night.
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Old 05-24-2010, 07:32 PM   #52
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I approached the rebuild a little differently. I did not begin by stripping the down to the frame, though I expect to have that completed by week end.

I began by opening the rear of the trailer and removing the three tanks and all appliances, loeaving the front intact for storage. As well we live on a small lot (60x100) near the beach with a motorhome, trailer and car in the front yard. To the 'street' it's hard to tell any things happening.

I have taken out 2/3rds of the floor, 8 feet, and added 8 ft aluminum beams to the floor, bolting them to the existing frame and extending the frame rear ward.

So far I have added one new cross member to support the floor and to support the grey tank. Originally the grey tank was screwed into three 1.5 inch wooden floor members. Now the tank hangs from one of the original steel cross members and an added aluminum cross member.

It's interesting that the grey tank was actually grey in color (now spray painted black). The black tank is of course black and the water tank clear.

After making a cut across the floor, the sag in the center of the floor was obvious. Our old 12 foot frame had only two steel cross members betweenthe front cross member and the bumper.

In the center of the trailer the seperation between cross members is 5 feet; the reason for the sag is pretty obvious. I have added one new cross member and will add a second to the old center section.

In the aluminum frame extension I will have aluminum cross members every two feet. The cross members are 2x2x0.125 inch aluminum angle.
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File Type: jpg Greytank1.jpg (51.2 KB, 7 views)
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Old 06-02-2010, 04:36 PM   #53
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Stripped Frame.
I completed stripping the frame and painting it with Rustoleum Black. The only rusted areas were where the frame was not visible.

The bottom of our trailer had a layer of aluminum. The corrogated aluminum left the corrogation pattern on the trailer's main beams.

The frame was in pretty good condition since I paint it every year. It seems the dirt roads we travel abrade the forward facing surfaces of the frame requiring yearly touch up.

With the old frame stripped, the next phase is to build the frame extension and strengthen the existing frame. I have started this by adding two aluminum side pieces, bolted to the existing frame. People have commented 'bolts'. I remind them that the whole trailer is held up by four bolts, two on each spring, holding the axle to the frame.

You will notice the large gaps between cross members on the existing frame, as much as 53 inches. I intend to install aluminum cross members every two feet, bolting them to the existing frame main beams and the frame extension. One of the aluminum cross members is already installed, located on the far side of the grey tank, installed at the grey tanks new position.

As well as finishing the frame this week, my goal is to move the axle about four feet rearward. The axle will be located immediately under the grey tank.

I've installed the grey tank. I was surprised to find the top of the grey tank is depressed about an inch in the center. Not wanting to lose the volume, I am considering ways to take that bow out without drilling a hole in the tank.

This week it's finishing frame extension and axle moving.

As to weight, we brought all the wood components to the dump today and were charged for 817 pounds of material. A good chunk of this was the OSB floor.

My calculations indicate that the new 20 foot long floor will weigh less than the old 12 foot floor. After completing the floor I will weigh the trailer.

A tired 67 year old will sleep well tonight,
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File Type: jpg stripped frame.jpg (52.8 KB, 9 views)
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Old 06-04-2010, 07:45 PM   #54
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Grey Tank.


Our Sunline had all variable sources of weight located directly over the wheels. Most of the variable weight is represented by fluids in the three tanks, grey black and water. As well the heavy appliances are also located at or near the axle.


We want to maintain this relationship and have moved the grey tank four feet rearward, above the new location of the axle, yet to be relocated. When we removed the grey tank, we found about an inch of pebbles and dust trapped between the top of the tank and the aluminum floor pan.


The attached picture showes the top of the grey tank after a rain storm. About two gallons of water are sitting on top of the tank, equivalent to lost capacity.




This occurs because the center of the tank which probably starts off flat becomes concave since there are no center supports in the tank. This reduces the capacity of the tank by about 10%.


I have been considering methods to remove the concavity without making a hole in the tank. My present tack is to epoxy a piece of aluminum to the tank with a wire thru the middle of the aluminum. Eventually to pull the wire taught thru the floor wrapping it around the central beam located in the floor that runs the length of the floor. Additional approaches are of interest.


By the way, this picture shows that the tank is now mounted to two cross members, one aluminum and one steel. Originally the grey tank mounted against the aluminum floor pan, exposed under the trailer. The mounting screws went thru the aluminum pan to wooden support members.


Thank you,
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Old 06-04-2010, 07:53 PM   #55
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Grey Tank.


Our Sunline had all variable sources of weight located directly over the wheels. Most of the variable weight is represented by fluids in the three tanks, grey black and water. As well the heavy appliances are also located at or near the axle.


We want to maintain this relationship and have moved the grey tank four feet rearward, above the new location of the axle, yet to be relocated. When we removed the grey tank, we found about an inch of pebbles and dust trapped between the top of the tank and the aluminum floor pan.


The attached picture showes the top of the grey tank after a rain storm. About two gallons of water are sitting on top of the tank, equivalent to lost capacity.




This occurs because the center of the tank which probably starts off flat becomes concave since there are no center supports in the tank. This reduces the capacity of the tank by about 10%.


I have been considering methods to remove the concavity without making a hole in the tank. My present tack is to epoxy a piece of aluminum to the tank with a wire thru the middle of the aluminum. Eventually to pull the wire taught thru the floor wrapping it around the central beam located in the floor that runs the length of the floor. Additional approaches are of interest.


By the way, this picture shows that the tank is now mounted to two cross members, one aluminum and one steel. Originally the grey tank mounted against the aluminum floor pan, exposed under the trailer. The mounting screws went thru the aluminum pan to wooden support members.


Thank you,
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File Type: jpg Grey Tank.jpg (55.6 KB, 7 views)
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Old 06-09-2010, 02:42 PM   #56
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Frame Extension


Our Sunline's frame was 15.5 feet long with 12 feet of living space length. The new frame will be 23.5 feet long with 20 feet of living space length, an increase of 8 feet.


Our 15.5 1982 Sunline's frame has two main rectangular steel box beams, 2x3 inches in cross section that make up the back bone of the trailer. There are three cross members that connect the main beams, one at the front, and one 43 inches from the front and a third 53 inches from the second.


There was no cross member at the rear to support the floor. The number of cross members were inadequate to support the original 12 x 7 foot OSB floor. Most of the floor was free from rot, yet the floor was soft and visibly sagged.


The new trailer's frame is an extension of the existing trailer's frame. I began by cutting off the steel bumper (losing 32 pounds of weight). I then attached two 12 foot 1 x 3 inch aluminum beams to the steel 2x3 inch back bone beams.


These two 12 foot aluminum box beams overlap the original steel box beam by about four feet. The aluminum extensions are held to the steel beams by 5 bolts. The two beams, since they are dissimilar metals, are separated by ECK, a zinc based spray used to eliminate or at least dramatically reduce galvanic action between dissimilar metals. I used Eck where ever steel contacts aluminum, on bolts, screws as well as beam surfaces.



Picture 1. This picture is part of the frame extension. The can is sitting on two overlapping 1x3 aluminum beams at the junction of a cross member. The holes in the cross member are to allow me to screw into the floor from the bottom. In all the pictures the shiny metal is aluminum and black, the original steel frame. I will eventually paint the aluminum black as well.

To provide a base for the floor I've placed a cross member every 2 feet. This also means that all five sheets of plywood that will make up the first layer of the floor will have their long edges resting on a cross member.
Only the front cross member of the original frame is on an even foot. As a result I added 10 cross members at two foot intervals. In addition I installed one cross member to support one side of the gray tank, the other side hangs off one of the original cross members. Add to this number the two existing cross members of the original frame that do not fall on two foot intervals and you'll see I have 14 cross members.

Picture 2. The new frame from the rear. The aluminum bumper is not yet attached.

New cross members on the original frame are bolted to the two 2x3 inch steel beams. If an aluminum cross member is near a steel cross member, it is a 1 ½ x 1 ½ x 1/16 inch aluminum angle. If an aluminum cross member is not close to a steel member, it is a 2 x 2 x 1/8th inch aluminum angle.

A number of passer-byes are concerned that the aluminum main beam extensions may not be stiff enough. I believe the addition of the floor will tremendously stiffen the floor. The floor will be 2 ½ inches thick. The bottom layer of this floor is ¼ inch plywood, the middle layer 2 inches Formular foam rated for 250 pounds per square inch, and the top layer is ¼ inch plywood.

The bottom layer of plywood will be glued to all cross members and the backbone members with Urethane construction adhesive. As well the plywood will be screwed thru the cross members into the plywood helping to pull the plywood tight to the cross members.

The plywood bottom will be topped with the 2 foot x 8 foot x 2 inch thick foam panels and the final layer of plywood. All three layers will be urethaned together. Also in this layer will be a 2x2 wooden beam reinforced with a thin piece of steel will run the length of the trailer to further stiffen the structure, in some measure acting like a third back bone beam. This mostly wooden/ some steel beam will be screwed to all cross members.

(Since I was worried how the Urethane constructuion adhesive would bond to the painted steel beams, as a test I urethaned a piece of plywood to a painted steel beam. The bottom layer of that piece of plywood is steel on the beam. The stuff really sticks.)

The axle has been move four feet rear ward to maintain the close to the same ratio it had in the original trailer though the axle is not yet attached to the frame. Presently the clearance between the two original 2x3 inch box beams and the ground is 9 inches. I plan to increase this to 11 inches by adding a 2 inch x 2 inch x 3 foot box beam in the area of the springs to gain the 2 inch height increase when I remount the springs. I am concerned this may not be enough, if so I will flip the axle.

Minimizing weight is a goal of this project. My plan is to keep it under 2600 pounds. As a result I will regularly report on the progress in this area.
The frame extension, all cross members and the new aluminum bumper (not shown), add about 60 pounds to the original frame's 160 pounds. When I deduct the no longer present steel bumper's 32 pounds, the additional weight amounts to 28 pounds. In summary the new trailer is 67% longer in terms of floor space and the frame weights 20% more.




Picture 3. This is the new frame from the front.
Next is remounting the axle and building the floor.



Safe travels to all and don't attempt any project that is TOO big (advice from my neighbor).
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Eck.jpg (53.5 KB, 11 views)
File Type: jpg Frame 2.jpg (55.0 KB, 12 views)
File Type: jpg Frame3.jpg (54.2 KB, 9 views)
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Old 06-14-2010, 03:59 PM   #57
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Grey Tank

We successfully removed the concavity from the grey tank today. I simply capped all the pipes. In one of the caps I installed a connector for a compressor hose. I then pumped air into until it popped virtually flat.

To keep it that way I put a glob of construction adhesive on the top of the tank and pumped it up unti it the tank hit the floor (you can hear it pop) and kept it there until the adhesive bonded.
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Old 06-14-2010, 05:15 PM   #58
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Floor Buildup


The Frame is finished, the rain has ended and today we began the floor.


There are three primary components to the floor.


There are 10 sheets of ¼ inch Laun Plywood, specifically made for underlayment in moist environments. I have only found this at Home Depot.


There are 10 pieces of 2 foot x 8 foot x 2 inch Fomular Polystyrene. This material is R-10 an insulating value.


There will be a 20 foot long 1'1/4”x2” steel reinforced, wooden beam that runs down the center of the floor.


For fastening we are principally using PL polyurethane construction adhesive. We also use 3/8th inch screws to hold the bottom plywood layer in place. screwing up from the bottom thru the cross members.


We have added one interesting construction tool, an Campbell-Hauser air powered caulking gun. I'll be using a lot of adhesive and this tool will save my aging hands. I paid $23 for on Amazon. I would not rate this tool as professional/production quality particularly for viscous adhesives like the Urethane I'm using, though it works well for me. I did learn that if you leave the adhesive in the rear of a hot car on a sunny day it flows a lot easier.


I began by cutting the plywood to a width of 88 inches, this will make our trailer 7'6” on the outside and 7'2” on the inside with walls 2 inches thick.


For the bottom plywood pieces of the floor, I painted the bottom of the plywood black and the top side white. Of course the top side will never see the light of day, however I wanted to give some additional moisture protection during construction. I also painted all plywood edges and the edges of any cutouts that pierce the plywood. As well all openings thru the floor will be closed with spray construction foam, though I am attempting to minimize floor piercings.


When I paint the aluminum frame members, the bottom layer of plywood will get another coat of black paint. (I use Walmarts spray black for this task.) When we finish the outside of the trailer, the exposed layer of plywood will get a protective layer of black vinyl. The vinyl is the same type used for sign making.




Picture 1. First layer of floor down, white painted side up.

You may notice on the right edge of the plywood a steel reinforcement. This is glued and screwed to the plywood to stiffen the edge. This steel member is the same material that we will use for the walls backbone.


This layer of plywood is topped with the 2” foam pieces running the long way. They are staggered and never end at a plywood joint. The are held to the plywood with adhesive. As well the foam is tongue and grove. Adhesive goes on the bottom and the edges.


Picture 2. Three pieces of foam down.

With the first layer of plywood down, I added a light gauge steel angle to the edge of the plywood, adding stiffness to the edge. This piece is glued and screwed to the plywood with ¼ inch screws.


Picture 3. Steel foam edge.

Note I have cut the tongue off the edge piece of foam.

The 1 1/2” x 2 inch laminated wooden beam with a steel spine is made up of overlapping sections of 3/4” x 2” 8 foot lengths of wood with a 1 inch steel member laminated in the center. Every two feet it is screwed into the cross members. As well it is laminated to the top and bottom layers of plywood. Though not as stiff as the steel and aluminum frame members it will stiffen the floor with minimal additional weight. (Not yet done)


The foam layer and laminated beam is topped with another layer of Plywood again bonded with Urethane Construction Adhesive to the foam and beam. (Not yet done)


The only trick part was the center piece of plywood. First it has to slip over the gray tank's two vent pipes. Second It has to accommodate the wheel wheels and tires. Third the hot and cold water pipes must pass thru this section of floor from the kitchen sink to the bathroom and hot water heater.


To slip over the vent pipes I just made cut outs in the plywood. This cutout portion is under cabinets and will not be visible.


Accomodating the wheel wells is simple, just requiring a cut out for them.


Accomodating the pipes requires cutting a groove in the foam deep enough for the pipes, about ¾ of an inch in depth and an inch wide. It also reguires cutting a notch in the beam. To regain beam strength the pipes will be covered with a steel plate at the beam.

My plan is to finish the floor this week and begin building the steel frame work for the walls, cieling and roof next week.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Floor front.jpg (49.3 KB, 173 views)
File Type: jpg floor steel edge.jpg (34.3 KB, 170 views)
File Type: jpg floor w foam.jpg (51.0 KB, 171 views)
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Norm and Ginny Milliard
1982 Sunline 15.5 SB
2004 Honda CRV 4 cyl, manual
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Old 06-16-2010, 04:31 PM   #59
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Foam down


All the foam panels are attached to the first layer of plywood. Now 5 sheets of plywood will be bonded to the foam and the floor will be done.




I neglected to mention how much stiffer the frame has become by simply screwing and gluing a layer of ¼ inch plywood to the frame. The addition of 2 inches of foam has further improved the situation.




Assuming sunny weather I should be done with the floor tomorrow,

After that I'll begin building the steel framework for the walls and ceiling.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg foam 3.jpg (51.8 KB, 161 views)
File Type: jpg foam 2.jpg (40.5 KB, 159 views)
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1982 Sunline 15.5 SB
2004 Honda CRV 4 cyl, manual
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Old 06-16-2010, 07:44 PM   #60
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frank
Norm,

Keep the pics coming!

- Frank
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