Insulation & R-Factor in Sunlines

apackoftwo · 10-14-2010, 09:52 AM

I am wondering if anyone knows the R-factor of the insulation Sunline used?
There doesn't seem to be anything about it in the brochure unless I missed it

Also would the insulation be different with Fiberglass siding as opposed to the panels?

How is the insulation installed? Is it stapled, glued?

**Sunline Fan** · 10-14-2010, 10:56 AM

I'm trying to find out about the R-value for you. I don't know what it is and I don't think I've seen it anywhere. It seems I heard it's different for the roof/floor over the sidewalls though. I want to think it's around R7-R14 if I had to guess.

I doubt the insulation is any different for a SE package unit, but I don't know for sure.

I think a lot of the insulation is just sitting in there. These units are built so tight that they pretty much just stuff it in or set it in and it stays until they sandwich it in with the outside material. This insulation doesn't have a paper backer either though. Gary would know from taking the 299 apart exactly how it is installed/held in.

Jon

frank · 10-14-2010, 11:54 AM

Your standard issue wooden RV stud measures 1" x 1.5"

My '02 2363 had unfaced fiberglass batts. The batts were 1.5" thick, matching the studs. I would expect most Sunlines to have been built in an identical manner. The insulation was lightly stapled to the studs

The roof is also unfaced fiberglass. I would expect the thickness of the insulation in the roof to vary based on model. The roof structure of my 2363 (no AC ducts) is considerably thinner than the one Gary & Kitty disassembled. From what I've seen inside my roof, the insulation was 2" thick at best. It is quite possible that it is the same 1.5" thick stuff as in the walls. Hopefully Gary or Kitty remember what they found in that one.

Fiberglass batts have an R rating of approximately 3.14 R per inch thickness. The number varies slightly, but that's a pretty common figure. That puts the typical RV wall cavity at about R 4.7.

If my memory is correct and my ceiling/roof insulation measures in at 2", that would give me a R 6.3 up there. I have found that I am missing insulation in several portions of the roof, which really doesn't help matters any.

For reference, here's a picture of the rear of my 2363 from when it was apart that shows the insulation:

- Frank

**Sunline Fan** · 10-14-2010, 03:37 PM

I just got a response from the Carl and the insulation has an R-7 value.

Jon

**JohnB** · 10-14-2010, 08:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sunline Fan

I just got a response from the Carl and the insulation has an R-7 value.

Jon

Jon, it that, walls, roof and floor?

**Sunline Fan** · 10-14-2010, 09:35 PM

I guess, I'm going to try to find out right now. I'm assuming yes though.

**Sunline Fan** · 10-14-2010, 09:44 PM

Just found out this was indeed everything, it all used the same fiberglass insulation.

apackoftwo · 10-14-2010, 10:12 PM

Ok so then R-7 is the standard in RVs, correct? I was wondering if Sunline was above the standard

Poppy & Nana · 10-15-2010, 06:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by apackoftwo

Ok so then R-7 is the standard in RVs, correct? I was wondering if Sunline was above the standard

I believe Jon is "talking" to Carl a former Sunline manager.....

**JohnB** · 10-15-2010, 06:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by apackoftwo

Ok so then R-7 is the standard in RVs, correct? I was wondering if Sunline was above the standard

Sunline in overall construction is above the standard RV industry camper. However they did still follow the general RV industry on how to do many things.

Sunline while known for high construction quality did not offer a polar package as standard. They may have custom made it as I thought the Eclipse protoype had it. That was Carl's camper that Sunline Fan was referring to. The normal Sunline is a 3 season camper. It takes more then better insulation to create a 4 season camper as defined by the RV industry. Doors get thicker, access panels get thicker, insulation in roof and floor get thicker, holding tanks get enclosed, thermal pane windows to name a few.

However don't let that stop you thinking that the standard Sunline cannot be used all year round in the northern climates. There are some things you have to tweak to make it more enjoyable but not a lot. We do use ours all year round. The biggest thing to deal with is the extra moisture inside. But this too can be controlled. For sure I would not want to live in the camper the way it is built but for a weekend get away in January here in central Ohio, we use it. As long as there is no snow on the ground, the weekend is not solid rain yuk, we are out. A sunny 45 degree day is a heat wave in January.... and the nights dip to 15....

Good luck

John

**Sunline Fan** · 10-15-2010, 08:15 PM

John & Kathy,

Indeed it is Carl Kern, Sunline Design Engineer. I asked him what kind of insulation was used in the units, particularly in the 2004/2005 units. When he responded with R7, I then asked him how far back did he know that went. He said he remembered about back to 1991 and they used the same R7 from 1991 to 2007. I wasn't just referencing what the Eclipse had, I'm not sure if it used anything different.

Jon

apackoftwo · 10-15-2010, 11:05 PM

It's really to bad that Sunline didn't make/offer a "winter package like the Bigfoot or Arctic Fox but who knows maybe they would have?

pwb01 · 10-16-2010, 01:06 PM

My book says R7 insulation which is good for comfort while camping. The large area of non insulated glass would also be a a factor here. I imagine if you heated it at 25 degrees outside for any length of time, the cost of propane would be prohibitive. Your house is at least R19 and could be higher.