It just dawned on me..... you have a 2003 T2499. Duh.... Sorry about that I did not connect the screen name to what camper you have... As FYI if you create a signature in the control panel (CP) you can list out your camper model and year, truck/year and other things you like to show us as well as a picture. This helps explain to others what you have so the responses may fit better.
With that in mind, heads up that the T2499 floor plan does load towards the tongue of the TT. That link above on if gear adds, subtracts or stays neutral directly applies to your camper. I did that for a fellow forum member who had that floor plan and unfortunately the dealer did not caution him that his jeep could not handle that camper when he put gear in it. He now has and F250. The SUV's make good TV's when used within their means just the rear axle weights are the weak area to watch out for. There is more glass in the back and truck weight due to the SUV make up and that lighter springs are used. A pickup will most generally in the same class truck always be able to haul more tongue weight as the bed does not weigh as much and the truck is sprung different.
We do have folks here on the forum using properly equipped 1/2 ton pickup's to tow the T2499. The key is watch where the weights are going and you may have to pack lighter then those you use 3/4 ton suspension. We each have our own unique circumstances on camping gear.
I thought you had one of the newer GM PU's. Nice trucks!!! Pulling wise the drive train is a whole lot better then the prior ones on any of the new 1/2 tons. The heads up is to watch 3 areas.
1. The truck receiver. Look at the WD (weight distributing) rating. The loaded tongue weight "Plus" gear in the back of the truck behind the rear axle should not go over that rating. I have been away from the Chevy's for a few years but I'm estimating the receiver may be in the 1,000 to maybe 1,050# WD rating area. So if you have a TT with 800# of tongue weight and 200# sitting at the end of the truck bed, the WD hitch is working on 1,000# and thus the receiver needs to handle that. To help this, load heavy gear in the truck bed right behind the cab but at least forward of the rear axle.
2. Rear axle rating. On your driver side door it lists the GAWR-RR (Gross Axle Weight Rating - rear) That is the axle, springs and tires. Do not know which is the weak link but one of them is and the rating fits the weakest one. When one puts a 1,000# tongue weight on a 1/2 ton truck, heads up watch what is in the truck bed. A cap on the back can weight 300#. 100# may end up aft of the rear axle. And then there is camping gear. I know my truck bed is full and I bought the 1 ton over the 3/4 ton in my case for a cap and more gear for long distance camping. That and I'm starting with a loaded 1,400# tongue weight after I did the TT rebalance. Point: Watch out and do not go over the rear axle rating
3. GVWR (Gross Vehicle Rating) With the new higher power drive trains it is even easier to run out of GVWR before you run out of pulling capacity. This is not a new problem it is just easier to run into now. Unless you go camping with a totally empty truck bed , 1 person in the truck, odds are you will not be able to use all of the rear axle rating you have before you run out of GVWR. And since I have not met anyone yet who goes camping with a totally empty truck bed and 1 person in the cab, well heads up. You may reach the GVWR before you hit the rear axle rating. You can pull it, but by the specs you may not be able to hold up the camper and camper gear in the truck bed.
TT tongue weight and gear in the truck bed affects all 3 of those areas. Now, all is not lost I'm just passing along a fellow camper heads up, watch the weights.
The ideal way to do this is before you start loading the camper and the truck. Spend around $10 bucks and go to a truck scale and weigh the truck and camper empty with full tank of gas and full LP in the camper. There is a method that takes 3 scale weights and then you can figure all axle ratings and tongue weights. If you need help on how to do that, just ask. We can help there too.
Armed with real weights, now load the camper and the truck at the house and take all the time you need. Using a bath room scale weigh each item. Weigh yourself then hold an item. Write it down and subtract your weight and go to the next item. That weight map I linked you to shows where the weight will add to in the camper. For the truck bed, weight aft of the axle closest to the tail gate will add to the tongue weight for the reciever. So put light things like lawn chairs there. Put the heavy, fire wood, pop coolers up by the cab. That weight adds to the GVW and about 1/2 to a 1/3rd to the rear axle.
Once you get all loaded up, see if your weights look right to your ratings. Move gear around if needed. And you will need to adjust the WD hitch for a fully loaded camper and truck. When you believe you are good to go, then head back to the scales and recheck.
Weighing the truck and camper loaded with the WD hitch adjusted right is the only way to sort this out. I mentioned to do the 1st weighing empty, load and the re-weigh as that is the ideal way. If you are already loaded up, well go slow and weigh it as is. I know I never realized what "stuff" weighed until I started weighing it. I was shocked....
After the shock wore off....LOL well I learned and ended up buying a different truck... verse leaving 3/4 of my camping gear at home. My 1500 Tahoe could not handle the loaded tongue weight.
Once you sort out all the weights, and you are up against the ultra high tongue weight issue, then look at the boxes.
Here is a copy of the 2011 Chevy Trailing Guide. Pages 8 and 9 in the fine print on the bottom talks about loaded tongue weight
Hope this helps and good luck. Glad to answer any and all questions if you need more.