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Old 10-31-2016, 11:34 AM   #1
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Bargman #68 clearance lights

In the process of restoring my 2653, I've discovered the original Bargman #68 clearance lights have been discontinued. I'm quite surprised actually, since they were used on so many trailers over the years, and of course Sunline especially from the early '90s through the end.

Peterson Manufacturing (PM) makes a replacement for it now, the V132A and V132R, but it doesn't have the original Bargman text on it, which I want, for my authentic restoration.

I have a few used #68s from past trailers, since I never throw anything away, and I might have enough non-cracked ones to fix my cracked ones on the trailer, but I'd like to replace with all new if I can.

Does anyone have a source for these?
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2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9473.8 (as of 6/18/21)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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Old 11-01-2016, 06:30 PM   #2
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It's up to you but if you use LED replacements you'll never have to fool with them ever again. They are sealed, water tight and half again as bright.
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Old 11-02-2016, 12:24 PM   #3
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Quote:
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It's up to you but if you use LED replacements you'll never have to fool with them ever again. They are sealed, water tight and half again as bright.
Once I find Bargman 68s, I do plan to use LED bulbs, but otherwise I want the original look. I think a combination of the mounting holes on each end compressing and the hot bulb inside causes the plastic to crack like it does, not to mention stones can break the front ones. Hopefully doing the LEDs will prevent the heat stress on the plastic.

As long as the Bargman 68 isn't cracked, it's sealed and water tight too.
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2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9473.8 (as of 6/18/21)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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Old 11-02-2016, 03:20 PM   #4
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Jon,

Is this what you're looking for?

Bargman #68
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Old 11-02-2016, 03:35 PM   #5
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Water tight is not a word I would use for old style clearance lights. Even with LED bulbs they still suffer from the elements they draw less current but still get just as corroded and having to take them apart and cleaning the contacts ever year is not my ideal of fun no sooner you get one working the one on the other side goes out! When I bought my T1700 one of the first things I did was replace all of the clearance lights because at least half did not burn. They are completely sealed with just two wires hanging out they can not be disassembled. When I was a teenager (like 1962) I worked for a local gas station and we did school buses I spent more time getting the @#$^ lights to work than any thing else. Mine are actually for a Kenworth truck authenticity be hanged I turn them on they work every time!
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Old 11-02-2016, 05:29 PM   #6
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In my eyes putting LED's into original lights is not exactly purist. I'd just get the Peterson lights. Nobody will know the difference but you. They look exactly the same other than the name.
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Old 11-03-2016, 09:29 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PTHutch View Post
Jon,

Is this what you're looking for?

Bargman #68
That's it exactly, but I haven't had any luck finding someone who has them, besides a seller on eBay who only has amber. Below is what I received from Cequent customer service:

Good afternoon Jon,


I'm sorry but our 68 series has been discontinued with no replacement part. I would suggest trying to look online they sometimes have discontinued parts available. Or call our technical line at 1800-632-329 to see if they can suggest you something that could work too.

Thank you!

Tony
Cequent Performance Products
Customer Service Representative
1-800-632-3290


Quote:
Originally Posted by mainah View Post
Water tight is not a word I would use for old style clearance lights. Even with LED bulbs they still suffer from the elements they draw less current but still get just as corroded and having to take them apart and cleaning the contacts ever year is not my ideal of fun no sooner you get one working the one on the other side goes out! When I bought my T1700 one of the first things I did was replace all of the clearance lights because at least half did not burn. They are completely sealed with just two wires hanging out they can not be disassembled. When I was a teenager (like 1962) I worked for a local gas station and we did school buses I spent more time getting the @#$^ lights to work than any thing else. Mine are actually for a Kenworth truck authenticity be hanged I turn them on they work every time!
These lights aren't what I suspect your 1700 had. I bet you had Bargman #99s, which are much more leak prone. The 68 was a solid molded piece and the rubber coated socket pushed into the back. Yes, there is air space inside, but it's a much better design than the 99. I've never had a problem with one not working, even these with the few that are cracked, they all work fine.

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In my eyes putting LED's into original lights is not exactly purist. I'd just get the Peterson lights. Nobody will know the difference but you. They look exactly the same other than the name.
Haha true, I'm just trying to extend the life of the now NLA Bargman lights, swapping bulbs back isn't too hard and will look factory when they're not on.

No one would know the difference except me, but I'm the one I'm trying to please...
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2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9473.8 (as of 6/18/21)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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Old 11-03-2016, 02:20 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunline Fan View Post
That's it exactly, but I haven't had any luck finding someone who has them, besides a seller on eBay who only has amber. Below is what I received from Cequent customer service:



Good afternoon Jon,





I'm sorry but our 68 series has been discontinued with no replacement part. I would suggest trying to look online they sometimes have discontinued parts available. Or call our technical line at 1800-632-329 to see if they can suggest you something that could work too.



Thank you!



Tony

Cequent Performance Products

Customer Service Representative

1-800-632-3290








These lights aren't what I suspect your 1700 had. I bet you had Bargman #99s, which are much more leak prone. The 68 was a solid molded piece and the rubber coated socket pushed into the back. Yes, there is air space inside, but it's a much better design than the 99. I've never had a problem with one not working, even these with the few that are cracked, they all work fine.







Haha true, I'm just trying to extend the life of the now NLA Bargman lights, swapping bulbs back isn't too hard and will look factory when they're not on.



No one would know the difference except me, but I'm the one I'm trying to please...


I understand completely.

Good luck!
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Old 11-03-2016, 07:26 PM   #9
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Jon,

I found if you drill 2 small (1/16 to 3/32") holes in the bottom of these, they let the water out. Since I did that it solved the water soaked lights. It was not a good feeling having a 1/2 filled marker light with water. The water will try and get out where ever it can, like behind the bulb socket and right into the insulation. So I just gave it a way out. This greatly helps with the bulb blow outs the the corrosion. Hard to see, but this pic has them.

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Old 11-04-2016, 08:23 AM   #10
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Many fixtures had a small notch in the lens to drain off the water many were put on upside down.
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Old 11-04-2016, 01:18 PM   #11
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Jon,

I found if you drill 2 small (1/16 to 3/32") holes in the bottom of these, they let the water out. Since I did that it solved the water soaked lights. It was not a good feeling having a 1/2 filled marker light with water. The water will try and get out where ever it can, like behind the bulb socket and right into the insulation. So I just gave it a way out. This greatly helps with the bulb blow outs the the corrosion. Hard to see, but this pic has them.

Photobucket is apparently down for maintenance right now, but I think I understand what you did.

I wonder if drilling a hole in the top and bottom (and dicoring over the top) would help prevent the splitting?

Good news today though- found a place near Cincinnati with 8 amber 68s. Weren't super cheap, but they are coming to me now. A rock hit one of the front ones on the 286 on the way to PA this summer and spider cracked it, so one will go on there, and then the others will replace the ones on the 2653.

I think I'll try to clean up the red ones that are on there and use a couple of the used ones I have to get all good lights, unless I can find red 68s.

Now to figure out how to clean the inside of the lights...
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2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9473.8 (as of 6/18/21)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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Old 11-13-2016, 05:56 PM   #12
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Photobucket is apparently down for maintenance right now, but I think I understand what you did.

I wonder if drilling a hole in the top and bottom (and dicoring over the top) would help prevent the splitting?
Hi Jon,

I'm not following the hole in the top thought. What is the purpose you where thinking of?

My thoughts on the cracks is concentrated pressure from the screws and UV damage set up a perfect storm for cracking. If water does get in and it goes through a freeze cycle, that may aggravate the cracking even more.

Having the T2499 since new, well I say new as it sat on the dealers lot for 5 months cooking in the sun, I do not recall many cracks on that camper. But I was 303 UV protectent vigilante on that camper since I owned it. The T310, buying this one used it lived about a 2.5 year life with no TLC on plastic treatments and it lived outside. It had the cracks much sooner in it's life cycle. The most shocking was seeing the 3 red lights up top on the back of the camper 3/4 full of water.... That was enough that I had to do something. Since the drilled holes have come, it has stopped the water fill issue totally. The spider cracks still occur but I have had to change a light in a good while. The 303 may be helping more then I know.

Thanks

Jon
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Old 11-13-2016, 10:15 PM   #13
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Hi Jon,

I'm not following the hole in the top thought. What is the purpose you where thinking of?

My thoughts on the cracks is concentrated pressure from the screws and UV damage set up a perfect storm for cracking. If water does get in and it goes through a freeze cycle, that may aggravate the cracking even more.

Having the T2499 since new, well I say new as it sat on the dealers lot for 5 months cooking in the sun, I do not recall many cracks on that camper. But I was 303 UV protectent vigilante on that camper since I owned it. The T310, buying this one used it lived about a 2.5 year life with no TLC on plastic treatments and it lived outside. It had the cracks much sooner in it's life cycle. The most shocking was seeing the 3 red lights up top on the back of the camper 3/4 full of water.... That was enough that I had to do something. Since the drilled holes have come, it has stopped the water fill issue totally. The spider cracks still occur but I have had to change a light in a good while. The 303 may be helping more then I know.

Thanks

Jon
Hi John,

With the hole top and bottom, my thinking was to create a weak point on the light to give it somewhere to flex, and possibly reduce the chance of cracking. But the more I think about it, I'd rather leave the lights a little on the loose side and dicor around three sides. I'll see when I get ready to install.

That's a good point about UV damage. I'm trying to make this trailer as weather resistant as possible, which means leaving as little exposed plastic as possible. I'm thinking maybe I should clear coat these lights.

I did find that Phillips makes a nice 194/168 LED in amber and red, available at O'reilly/Autozone, that fits the Bargman 68 well. Not cheap, but due to the low profile of these lights, most eBay specials will be too deep.
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2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9473.8 (as of 6/18/21)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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