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Old 10-09-2009, 03:11 PM   #1
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Bad LP Regulator???

Wow, the coach must be really mad at me for letting her sit a month between uses. I went to start the WH yesterday evening and found out that we were out of LP. I took both bottles (one was already empty and turned off) and had them filled. Now the other bottle wasn't empty when we parked the coach but was yesterday. I put them back in and turned on the left bottle and immediately noticed a fair gas smell. I went inside and lit the stove, then the WH. Both flames seemed slightly weaker than normal. Then I lit the oven pilot for Mandy. The pilot stayed lit but the oven wouldn't light. Does this sound like my regulator is toast? Any help is as usual, greatly appreciated.
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Old 10-10-2009, 02:38 PM   #2
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Lowell, I'm out camping and posting is limited, but this might help.


The only real way I know of to check the regulator is with a water manometer or a LP pressure gage. First you check that the pressure down stream, is 11 in. Water column. Then once it is right turn on stove oven and watch the gas pressure. While the oven is working the pressure down stream of the regulator should hold 11 in WC. If it cannot maintain then it is toast as long as the green ACME nut on the tank is working.


If you search SOC you will find pics of my water manometer I made. I have done 2 gas posts here.


Since you "think" you are loosing LP, you can do a leak check also with the manometer. If you can not pass a minimun of a 3 minute pressure drop test you have a leak.


Now short of a manometer here are some thnigs to try:


The green nut that screws to the LP tank is a LP volume limiting saftey device. If it is having issues then it will not pass enough gas. You can switch to the other tank or move the new filled tank to the other pigtail hose and try. If it works and the other does not, then that helps tell us something.


Also the green nut if gas flows out of it way too fast will shut down the supply inside it or greatly restrict it. Before you move to the other tank location try this:


Un hook the green nut from the tank you are using. By doing this it will reset the saftey device inside. Screw back on the same tank and try again inside the camper like you did before.


If you think you have a big leak you can do this:


Open the tank valve and charge the system. Look at the little green indicator in the auto switch over regulator. Make sure it is up to the top.


Then shut off the tank. Time how long it takes for the green indicator takes to drop. If it drops fast then you can have a leak somewhere. This is not as good as a manometer pressure drop test but is big picture if you have a problem.


You can make up a solution of soap and water and dab it on all connections when the LP is turned on. If you have a fair sized leak it will bubble at the leak.


If the regulator diaphram has a pin hole in it it will leak out the regulator vent. Smell by the reg vent.


Did you try the furnace? The furnace is a big gas user. If the furnace and hot water heater run and oven does not then you may have an oven problem, or maybe not.


If you make it thru all these tests and do not find anything, a manmoter or LP pressure gage is next to help pin point your problem. You may have multiple things going wrong at once.


Good luck, I'll be at a PC sunday night

John
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Old 10-11-2009, 12:57 PM   #3
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Hi Lowell,

I had a similar situation this summer when I took a tank off to be refilled. I smelled gas after hooking the tank back up, and after spraying around the hoses and fittings with soapy water, found that the hose going into the green nut on my tank was not seated properly. Loosening the nut and re-adjusting the hose corrected my situation. Hope yours is that simple!

-Brad
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Old 10-11-2009, 02:20 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB
Look at the little green indicator in the auto switch over regulator. Make sure it is up to the top.

John
What is the proper way to read this indicator?

Mine has a black cap over the indicator, with green showing below the bottom of the cap. If I take the cap off, most of the indicator is red, except for about 3/4 of an inch at the bottom.

Is the cap supposed to be taken off to get the reading, or left on?

Does the whole indicator need to be red to indicate that it has switched over to the other tank?

I looked in the manual, but it is not very clear on how to read the indicator.

Thanks
Phil
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Old 10-11-2009, 08:17 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phillong
What is the proper way to read this indicator?

Thanks
Phil
Phil

See this post. Many have quesitons on how to read these so I made a post with pics to help explain.

LP Auto Change Over Regulator Explained

You leave the black cap on and read below it.

Hope this helps

Lowell, did you find anything?

John
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Old 10-12-2009, 06:40 PM   #6
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Good news. I may have been a little hasty thinking the regulator was faulty. When I put the tanks back in on Thursday night it was dark and I didn't catch that I had one of the acme nuts on wrong. Friday after work I got back to the coach and did a little searching. First I checked all of the brass fittings, and did find one a little loose. Then I made the soapy water spray and checked all the connections and hoses. It was only after all of that I realized I didn't have the supply hose connected correctly. Brad, looks like you arn't the only one who overlooks the simple things first. Once I fixed that everything now functions normally. Thanks for the help guys. Now.......the fridge.
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1996 T-2053 (First Sunline "Little One")
2001 T-295SR (Favorite Sunline)
2003 F-304SR (Last Sunline "The Big One")
1985 T-1650 (Current Sunline)
2004.5 Dodge Ram 3500 5.9 HO Cummins
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