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03-31-2019, 01:07 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 3
SUN #8782
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2006 T1950 Stove Oven Over temperature
The oven on my 1950 overheats. I have been unable to find a replacement temperature control for it. Any suggestions ?
Thanks Phil
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03-31-2019, 07:35 PM
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#2
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Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Michigan
Posts: 6,155
SUN #123
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Hey Phil,
I personally have never heard of this problem before, but the ovens are pretty simple. They also aren't designed the best- I'm told they can burn stuff on the bottom pretty easily. I've heard a few other tricks for using them over the years, but I can't remember exactly what they are. Just don't put anything low in the oven.
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2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9473.8 (as of 6/18/21)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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03-31-2019, 07:47 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 331
SUN #10986
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One tip I've seen a few times is to place a baking stone on the rack below where you're actually baking, to help diffuse the heat. Haven't had occasion to try it just yet.
Phil, have you actually used a thermometer to determine that the oven is running wild, or is it maybe just unfamiliarity with how such ovens tend to work? They're definitely not the same as your typical residential range oven.
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04-01-2019, 01:42 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Maine
Posts: 154
SUN #8853
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Quote:
Originally Posted by philhodge
The oven on my 1950 overheats. I have been unable to find a replacement temperature control for it. Any suggestions ?
Thanks Phil
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Phil, There should be a temperature probe on the inside towards the back of the oven. It should be attached to a clip on the rear wall of the oven next to a rectangular hole in the back wall. If it fell off so it's behind the oven it won't read the temp correctly. It looks like a thermocouple, copper tube. Also some ovens had an adjustment behind the oven knob to compensate for temperature. Pull off the oven knob and inside the shaft is a screw you can turn. Not all ovens had that adjustment, but it's worth a look. They weren't very accurate to begin with, so it might just be the nature of the beast.
Gary G
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1990 StarRay T170
2008 Chevy Silverado 1500
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04-01-2019, 03:03 PM
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#5
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 3
SUN #8782
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Hi Thanks for the input. I set the oven temperature to 300 with a thermometer in the oven it got up to over 400 and burner was still on when I shut it down.\
Phil
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04-01-2019, 07:31 PM
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#6
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12,764
SUN #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by philhodge
Hi Thanks for the input. I set the oven temperature to 300 with a thermometer in the oven it got up to over 400 and burner was still on when I shut it down.\
Phil
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Your camper being a 2006, is a relatively new one. Is this the first time you have ever used the oven? Trying to understand if it use to work right and now is not working.
If you are 100 deg F off, that is not normal.
Here is what the Atwood service manual states.
Quote:
THERMOSTAT CALIBRATION
The ideal temperature variance is 25 degrees (plus or minus). This means that if the thermostat is set at 350 degrees, the temperature will range between 325 and 375. If the temperature exceeds 50 degrees, plus or minus, check for a kinked capillary tube.
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As Gary G was saying, look at the thermostat. (a separate temperate bulb from the burner ass'y with a thin tube leading up to the top of the stove to the main gas knob for the oven) Look where it is placed in the oven. These often get knocked around from someone storing pots etc in the oven. If the thin tube is pinched/kinked close from a bend etc, then the system will not work right. It could be the T stat is not working and needs to be replaced.
Since you can light the main oven burner and the pilot works and stay lit, then a large part of the gas control valve (the knob valve up top) is at least working. This first points to the T stat bulb not in the right location in the back top of the oven, a pan/pot is touching it cooling it off or a damaged thermostat as a place to start.
Hope this helps
John
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Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC
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04-02-2019, 06:43 AM
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#7
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 3
SUN #8782
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Thanks for the input John. I bought the trailer used and this was first time I tried to use the oven, I have tried to find a replacement t'stat, but they are no longer available.
Phil
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04-12-2019, 07:27 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Ontario
Posts: 360
SUN #6257
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We had a 1985 T1350 and we never really used the oven and seldom the stove. Mainly for odors inside the trailer. We always used our Coleman outside. I do remember when I did try to use our oven it never really worked. It was spotless inside as though it was never ever used. I'm guessing probably defective from day one and out of warranty when they finally realized the problem.
With not much to lose, I removed the thermostat and carefully took it apart. There's really not much to it. But mine "appeared" to be in mint condition. I could not get the burner to lite.The pilot came on no problem but beyond that...nothing. All three stove top burners worked 100%. I checked here with the group and several RV shops and even the Dometic page. I could not get a replacement thermostat. I would have been happy with a working used thermostat. Nothing was available. After multiple attempts I finally conceded my efforts. I think the Dometic stove /oven was poorly designed. If it's over heating maybe change your parameters for settings. EG 200 actually is 300 etc . At least yours works, sort of.
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Ford Explorer 4.6 Triton V8, AWD, 4x4
1985 Sunline Saturn T-1350
Ham radio VE3JCJ, VHF, UHF and HF
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04-19-2019, 05:14 PM
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#9
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12,764
SUN #89
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Hi Phil,
I ran into this. It might help you on your oven if you want to get it going.
This U tube is about an RV fixing their bad thermocouple. He called Atwood and they gave him the part number to order the entire manifold that has a new gas valve on it for the oven. Which also has the new thermocouple.
You will get through his intro and then to the oven.
https://youtu.be/JLqzRsSSo50
I suppose it is cheaper then whole new range, but it is at least a solution.
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Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC
Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
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04-21-2019, 10:48 AM
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#10
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: New York
Posts: 2
SUN #8916
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Hi Phil,
Here's a company I found that rebuilt my oven thermostat for my old Wedgewood stove.
It's The Old Appliance Club (TOAC) Antique Stoves,Wood Stoves,Wood Cook Stoves,Kitchen Queen Stoves, eMail TOAC@sbcglobal.net,
phone #805-643-3532. I sent them photos of thermostat and they rebuilt it and also pressure tested it . It did cost about $240 + shipping and took about 2 -3weeks. Cheaper than buying a new stove. Happy with their service and my oven now works.
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