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-   -   Bathroom floor repair (http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f71/bathroom-floor-repair-19336.html)

Rmonty89 07-18-2019 04:12 PM

Bathroom floor repair
 
Hey guys just got a 1995 t-1950 last weekend. its our first camper so this is all new to us. Its in really good shape except the bathroom floor is soft. previous owner never used the bathroom. Just wondering how hard it is to replace the floor. I know the toilet will have to come out but how hard is it to remove the shower? I imagine the floor is soft underneath it.

Rmonty89 07-18-2019 04:14 PM

Also does a standard wax ring fit the toilet or will i need a special wax ring?

Draughty 07-18-2019 07:11 PM

Leakage somewhere and likely the roof upper back corner if they never used the bathroom.
It's doable I did it but it is cramped...

JohnB 07-19-2019 01:14 PM

Hi Rmonty89,

First off, Welcome and congrats on your new Sunny!

You have come to the right place for Sunline info and folks willing to share and help.

Now to the bathroom, the easy things first.

RV toilets use a special foam ring for the floor flange seal to the toilet. No wax ring like at home. With all the flexing the camper and toilet does, the wax ring will not hold the seal. You will have to find the correct foam ring made for your model/brand toilet. They are available on line and some RV dealers.

Next the floor, and the shower and the not so easy things. Ideally before you start into this, you know where the water problem started. And there may be multiple sources. Then stop the leak or at least patch it to stop letting more water in. This then gives you some time to figure out a plan on how and when to start taking the camper apart.

I am going to introduce you to and recommend you look at getting a moisture meter. With the meter you can scan the floor, shower walls, ceiling, camper walls, camper bottom waterproof membrane with a moisture meter to tell what is dry and what it wet. They are not that expensive and a valuable tool to any RV owner, even if they have a dry camper. This post will explain more on the meter, how it can be used and where to get one that will give you good info. http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f7...per-17613.html

I have a 2004 T1950, we call it Project camper no. 1. The floor plan is the same, but Sunline made subtle changes over the years. I do not think they will be big enough to change what I'm going to say. In that moisture meter post I linked you to, I am using the meter on my T1950. That camper has several leaks sources. And while your hopefully is not that bad, you can start to see what you may be up against. There is also a link in the first post which will take you to my 1950 being taken apart as preparation for a total restoration project.

We can tell you how to just fix the floor in the bathroom, that is only about 2 1/2 feet by 4 feet, but odds are high the water is still coming in now and the water damage more than just the bath floor.

If you get the meter, make sure it is set on wall mode and start scanning the inside of the camper floor, shower stall walls, ceiling, camper walls and then go under the camper and scan up at the black bottom membrane. It can show how far the wet is under the floor. It will not work on scanning the aluminum siding from the outside in. Metal tricks the meter. If your just happens to be a fiberglass sided camper, it can scan through the fiberglass.

And if you are lucky, you can scan the roof down into the camper. Stand on a ladder from the side ean over, do not walk directly on the roof without added protection of the roof. If there is no heavy mold buildup on the roof, the meter can find wet roof spots. It will be 0% to 5% in the dry areas and then go up to max out at 100% wetness if you find a wet area. If the entire roof scans 90 to 100%, then odds are high the moisture from mold up there is tricking the meter. You can find out quick if you can use it on the roof.

Hope this helps. Let us know what you decide.

John

Rmonty89 07-19-2019 02:53 PM

Thank you for the info. The siding on the back corner was damaged i think thats where it was coming in from its been sealed since. I have construction experience so redoing the floor isn't a big issue. The only concern I have is taking the shower out. How hard is that to remove?

JohnB 07-19-2019 05:15 PM

Hi,

Your construction experience will, for sure come in handy. :D

I will try and explain the complexity of the shower. Campers are not built like a house. They are built from the outside in. As such, they do not repair well taking them apart from the inside like a house.

If you want to replace the floor under the shower, I recommend to "not" to take the shower surround out or the shower basin. The surround walls are glued to the camper walls that are 1/8Ē thick luan. The damage you will cause to the surround panels trying to get the wall panels off and not destroy the wallboard or the panel has high odds you may have many issues to fix after. And the shower does not have to come out to replace the floor as the shower basin is approx 4" above the floor line.

The next part of the issue is, the camper floor is "under" the walls. The walls sit on top of the floor. While you can remove the old floor with the walls in place, adding a new floor can be an issue as there is no wood to screw it too on the perimeter. And then there is the reality, odds are very high the outer band board on the back wall, and potentially the rear left side is rotted out. Floor joists most likely also rotted. The OSB floor didnít go bad just by iself. If the outer band board is gone, soon the walls will start to compress as there is no wood to hold up the wall studs.

Here is one approach on to correct the floor, consider this a guide to help you think through how you will do it.

First, use the moisture meter to confirm there is no left corner leak rotting out the back wall along with part of the left rear wall, both which are behind the shower and check up in the ceiling, at the rafters. Odds are high a leak can exist in corner molding and the rear left roof corner joint in addition to the dented siding. If you post pictures of the roof caulk in that left rear corner, amd some of the corner molding putty tape sealant, we can see how good or not this is to help better. The shower dome can also be leaking. Many times you cannot see leaks inside the camper living space, vinyl wallpaper allows the water to stay behind the wall that is soaked.

Since there was siding damage in the back, and you feel that was where the water got it, the water amount was large enough to rot out the floor. The floor is on top of 2 x 3 floor joists which are sitting on the metal frame. It takes a lot of water to rot the floor board that high up. Odds are high the lower part of the rear wall is rotted. Meaning the bottom of the wall studs and the bottom band board needs to be replaced. Again, 30 minutes with the moisture meter and you know from the start of what you are up against.

Once the rear wall and bottom of the camper are confirmed wet, I would take the rear wall siding off. If the rot is low, only the bottom 2 panels may need to come off. The LH and RH corner comes off too which odds are the putty tape sealant needs replacing.

With the back siding panles off, you can look at the back of the camper, see the floor, under the shower and the band board. The rot will then guide you how much more siding needs to come off. Odds are high, the wet has moved under the bed too to some degree. You can take up the bed and the bed compartment without too much issue to repair that area.

Then cut into the floor where you can make a good repair joint and if you are "lucky", it is only the left rear corner that is bad. Point is, you pull out the floorboard from under the shower basin. The shower stall stays in place. There may be a few floorboard screws to deal with if they are not rusted off, but the sawzall cuts them too.

How far the rot goes out into the sink area is still TBD. The meter will tell you if it is wet and how much. And it may be partly wet that can dried out and be treated with resin to leave it in place. The bad wood needs to come out and be replaced.

You may have not made it to the moisture meter link I talked about in the last reply, there was a link to this post which shows how the camper is built and how it can rot. The older Sunlines has floor joists that ran front to back, then they switched left to right. Iím not sure what year they switched. That could be a difference.
http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f7...avy-17684.html

When you have the back lower siding panels off you can trim through the lower 1/8" wall board and get right into under the shower. See here. The shower stays in place to service the floor.
http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/at...2e36a536f4.jpg

http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/at...fd1c891604.jpg

http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/at...7b4690d9dc.jpg

You can see the shower basin Styrofoam base several inches above the main floor that you need to replace.

Hope this helps. Ask away if I have buried you in details. Glad to help.


John

Rmonty89 07-25-2019 03:48 AM

You guys are amazing thank you for the help. I will definitely be investing in the moisture meter. Looks like i got a project on my hands.

JohnB 07-25-2019 08:17 AM

We are here to help, and learn too. When you get into this, please consider adding pics and commenting back on the "project" you are into. This helps all of us, now and into the future. Since Sunline went out,:( we are a self help group now for the great campers they once built.


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