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-   -   Centurion 3000 cs xl problem (http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f71/centurion-3000-cs-xl-problem-14236.html)

TonyOCKy50 10-10-2012 08:03 PM

Centurion 3000 cs xl problem
 
On a recent short trip I made sure the TT battery was fully charged. I was docked to 30-AMP supply and my power monitor read 120.1 volts. During the 4th night I lost all DC. The battery was drained. The battery is a deep cycle battery and is just a year old. The "manual" said to try disconnecting the battery, which I did. Still no 12 volts. I threw the main 30 amp breaker off, re-connected the battery. I then hooked up to my truck and towed the TT home, by which time the battery had re-charged and the 12 volts was available once again. Do I have a problem with the battery charging from the converter? I can only assume the battery was recharged from the truck. If it's the converter, do I need to replace the converter or is the charging model itself replaceable? :confused:

MACK C-85 10-11-2012 09:36 AM

Quote:

If it's the converter, do I need to replace the converter or is the charging model itself replaceable?
Here is a link to a replacement charging module:

Centurion CS3000 Replacement

I replaced my WFCO convertor charging module with a Progressive Dynamics 4600 from Best Convertor and was very pleased with thier service.

Mack

TonyOCKy50 10-12-2012 02:52 PM

Thanks for all your input. I just have to find the time to perform some basic checks. Too much going on! I'll post back in 2 or 3 days and let you know what I find.

JohnB 10-14-2012 09:10 PM

The Centurion is no longer and parts are not available unless you have a buddy who does circuit board level repairs. But upgrades are available.

It sounds like your converter is dying, dead or something blew on it. A sure fire way to tell if it is doing anything is:

Using a volt meter, plug the camper into 120 VAC shore power. With the battery connected to the camper, use a volt meter directly on the battery posts.

If the voltage is at or below 12.7 volts DC, the converter is doing nothing. 12.7 is 100% state of charge of a 12 volt battery. It goes down from there.

If the converter had a float mode it should be 13.25 volts or in that range and normal charge would be around 13.65 volts.

Odds are high your converter is not putting out anything. Now you have to back into, is the 120 VAC going into the converter? Do not know your electrical skills yet if you feel comfortable testing this. Some had a glass fuse on the board of the convertor that was in the main AC incoming line. Check if it is blown. Make sure all power is off before you take the cover off.

If you have confirmed 120 VAC is going in and 13 .2 or higher DC volts are not coming out, well you have isolated it to the converter.

See this recent post. There is more typed on that post that may help.

http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f6...ues-14073.html

Hope this helps and let us know if you need more.

John

PS I fully agree, the Progressive Dynamics converter is a good one.

TonyOCKy50 10-15-2012 04:39 PM

The A/C line fuse was blown. Does anyone know the rating of this fuse? It's hard to tell, even with a magnifying glass, but it looks like 15A.

Gene 10-15-2012 07:38 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Is it the fuse on the circuit board in this picture? If so I will check mine tomorrow and let you know.

JohnB 10-15-2012 08:12 PM

Gene's unit may be closer to yours than mine was. Mine is was a 60 amp unit, where yours is a 30 amp. However if Gene cannot make out his, I still having mine up in the attic of the shed I can dig up if needed. Why I'm still keeping it?? Good question...

TonyOCKy50 10-15-2012 08:22 PM

Fuse location
 
1 Attachment(s)
The fuse is located in the top left of the unit as seen in the attached picture.

JohnB 10-15-2012 08:45 PM

I must say, that pic sure looks familiar.... It's mine!. LOL.

Here is the rest of the board
http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/at...4b57eaa840.jpg

http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/at...81f2e00f64.jpg

John

Gene 10-15-2012 10:10 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Ahh.... that is interesting. Mine is a CS4500 but not XL.
.

Gene 10-16-2012 09:56 AM

I checked the fuse on mine this morning and it is a 15 amp fuse on the circuit board. I suspect the 30 amp, CS3000 XL, converter may have a 10 amp fuse. John may be able to confirm that his 60 amp converter has a larger fuse, maybe a 20 amp.

In any case, use nothing larger than a 15 amp fuse for the CS3000 XL. If the fuse blows right away, try removing all the DC loads (and disconnect the battery). If the fuse still blows the converter may be toast. :mad:

JohnB 10-16-2012 11:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gene (Post 109048)
I checked the fuse on mine this morning and it is a 15 amp fuse on the circuit board. I suspect the 30 amp, CS3000 XL, converter may have a 10 amp fuse. John may be able to confirm that his 60 amp converter has a larger fuse, maybe a 20 amp.

I will check tonight. I mine was not a 20 amp, the entire board is only fed from a 15 amp breaker and the wire size is not large enough to support 20 amps. Trying to back into this, 60 amp at 13.65 VDC is 819 watts. Add in some transformer overhead and maybe the 1,000 watts of power is it. 1,000W/120v = 8.3 amps. Even with inrush I can't see the need for any more than a 15 amps fuse on mine.

Do not know for sure, however they may all use a 15 amp fuse as more of a global overload. It may be more to protect the wiring on the board itself from meltdown than trying to protect a single component.

These things only "normally" pull full current unless they are creating full DC load. I agree testing with a 10 amp fuse is a safe test. Have no lights on and no battery it should not be blowing a 10 amp fuse just trying to power up.

Gene, does your have an actual 120VAC amp draw device sticker anywhere? Technically any device manufactured is suppose to have a rating sticker on it what full load would be.

We can always use that as a guide if we have to

JohnB 10-16-2012 11:44 AM

Gene,

This pic of yours shows what the manufacture declared was needed to run the unit.

http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/at...1&d=1350356963

A 35 amp unit needed a 12 amp supply

A 45 amp unit needed a 15 amp supply

A 60 amp unit needed a 15 amp supply

We can use this as a guide and Tony should have a similar sticker

TonyOCKy50 10-16-2012 12:38 PM

I couldn't find the sticker. I went with a 15A fuse. It didn't blow on the main breaker but after sequentially turning on breakers, my unit smoked and spit out a piece of plastic or similar material. As I don't have a good place to work on it, I'm taking it into a local repair shop. Thanks for all your help.


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