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Old 07-13-2018, 10:12 AM   #1
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Keystone slide

Hello I have a Springdale limited edition travel trailer I have notice that the bottom of the slide when pull in is not going in all the way it's about 1 inch out the top is flush on camper but bottom is not can I fix this by adjusting the stop or is this another problem I think I have the libbert system slide any help would be great I can send pics of it if it will help. Thank you have a God filled day
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Old 07-14-2018, 07:10 PM   #2
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Hi Tennessee,

If your camper has the Lippert rack and pinion drive slide, I may be able to help. It would look like this. This is a link to the LCI site with the electric rack and pinion system manual.

https://www.lci1.com/assets/content/...Out-Manual.pdf

What it sounds like is your system is out of time. Meaning the master rack (the one with the motor drive attached to it) is out of sync with the auxiliary rack (the other slide arm that is driven by a square shaft off the master rack)

We would need to know which slide arm is short in closing. The master rack or the auxiliary rack? Both can have the problem and the correction will be different for both in a detail way.

Before you adjust anything, it needs to be understood what the problem is. Many of the slide adjustments are not intuitive and sort of work backwards in thinking until one understands the system. Depending which stop you adjust, it may help one problem and create another as that stop setting was not really the main problem.

Please post a few pics of your slide system so we can see what you have and the problem. And which slide arm is short when coming in.

Also if one slide arm is short on the way in, the two end walls of the slide may not be in the correct settings on the way out. Look inside the camper and see if the wall flanges are seated to the camper wall the same on both ends of the slide when it is out. One may be over tight and the other very loose. Need to know this too and which is tight and which is not. It is not impossible to have excessive wear in the system to only have a retract problem without a deploy or extend out problem at the same time. But many times a retract problem comes with an extend problem too. Several things to look at and once all is known, then make an adjustment or fix the worn parts.

If yours is a LCI rack and pinion, it would look like this

This is the auxiliary drive arm. The square shaft runs the slide arm in and out.


This is the master rack, it had an ACME screw drive and a motor moving the slide arm in and out. It also drives the square shaft that connects to the auxiliary slide arm.

The motor drive


The end of the master rack showing the stop can system.




Hope this helps

John
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Old 07-15-2018, 01:34 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB View Post
Hi Tennessee,

If your camper has the Lippert rack and pinion drive slide, I may be able to help. It would look like this. This is a link to the LCI site with the electric rack and pinion system manual.

https://www.lci1.com/assets/content/...Out-Manual.pdf

What it sounds like is your system is out of time. Meaning the master rack (the one with the motor drive attached to it) is out of sync with the auxiliary rack (the other slide arm that is driven by a square shaft off the master rack)

We would need to know which slide arm is short in closing. The master rack or the auxiliary rack? Both can have the problem and the correction will be different for both in a detail way.

Before you adjust anything, it needs to be understood what the problem is. Many of the slide adjustments are not intuitive and sort of work backwards in thinking until one understands the system. Depending which stop you adjust, it may help one problem and create another as that stop setting was not really the main problem.

Please post a few pics of your slide system so we can see what you have and the problem. And which slide arm is short when coming in.

Also if one slide arm is short on the way in, the two end walls of the slide may not be in the correct settings on the way out. Look inside the camper and see if the wall flanges are seated to the camper wall the same on both ends of the slide when it is out. One may be over tight and the other very loose. Need to know this too and which is tight and which is not. It is not impossible to have excessive wear in the system to only have a retract problem without a deploy or extend out problem at the same time. But many times a retract problem comes with an extend problem too. Several things to look at and once all is known, then make an adjustment or fix the worn parts.

If yours is a LCI rack and pinion, it would look like this

This is the auxiliary drive arm. The square shaft runs the slide arm in and out.


This is the master rack, it had an ACME screw drive and a motor moving the slide arm in and out. It also drives the square shaft that connects to the auxiliary slide arm.

The motor drive


The end of the master rack showing the stop can system.




Hope this helps

John
Hello John and thank you for the help here are some pics I only had camper for 1 year I really never pay any attention if it has been that way since I got it out first with slide we enjoy the slide so like to keep it working correct
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File Type: jpg IMG_20180715_131338658.jpg (87.1 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20180715_131551323.jpg (95.2 KB, 5 views)
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Old 07-15-2018, 08:25 PM   #4
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Hi,

OK good. These pics are a great start. Yes, you do have the Lippert electric rack and pinnion drive slide system.

I cannot tell from the pics what direction is the front or back of the camper. But I can see the tires are on one end of the slide. So I will refer to the tire location.

Confirm this for me.

This pic


Is this the end by the tires that is not closing all the way? and by the way, is this the front of the slide or the rear (back of camper) of the slide in relation to the tow ball? It looks like it may be, but need confirmed so we do not adjust the wrong end. This tire end of the slide has the auxiliary slide arm supporting it and is driven by a square shaft from the master rack slide arm.

These 2 pics shows the master rack slide arm. The master rack is "not" near the tire area.




If the tire end (auxiliary slide arm) is not closing and the non tire end (master rack slide arm) is closing, please confirm this before I type a bunch in the wrong direction.

Please also confirm, when your slide is fully retracted does the slide floor lift up off the camper floor? And when it goes all the way out, then the slide floor drops down and is almost flush with the main camper floor?

Would look something like this when fully retracted. Our camper slide full in


At the floor level, the bottom of the slide is above the carpet when fully retracted.




When the slide is fully out, the slide floor drops down and then becomes close to flush with the rest of the camper floor. This is called a "flush slide floor system"


Knowing if your slide has that flush floor slide setup and that the slide lifts up off the floor when retracted helps us understand better on the slide adjustments.

Also, go inside the camper when the slide is fully out. Feel/look at the slide flanges up against the camper wall. See if the gap on the slide flange is parallel to the wall?


You can see here that the bottom of the slide flanges are not firmly up against the wall. The gap is not parallel and the slide flanges are not tight top to bottom of the wall. Check both ends of the slide and tell me which are or are not closed up tight on the inside.

Hope this helps

Thanks

John
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Old 07-16-2018, 06:21 PM   #5
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Pics of the slide were took with me standing at the front of camper so you correct the auxiliary is the one next too tire and master is toward back of camper it looks like even gaps on both sides of the slide at the bottom I retracted the slide all the way out and it seem to have the same gap on the inside also at the bottom as far as the slide it seem to be right at floor level in or out on the slide so no I don't think it move up or down when I run it out or in it's slide in and out very easy so my problem can't be the stop because when I retracted it out to full it has the same gap on the inside at the bottom the side on the inside auxiliary side may be out a little more then the master side their a wall their so I have to just feel it's seem to be around 1 inch out at the bottom on both sides even when in or out on the slide.
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File Type: jpg IMG_20180716_164601737.jpg (76.6 KB, 1 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20180716_164550211.jpg (73.2 KB, 1 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20180716_164222111.jpg (123.8 KB, 1 views)
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Old 07-16-2018, 10:01 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tennessee View Post
Pics of the slide were took with me standing at the front of camper so you correct the auxiliary is the one next too tire and master is toward back of camper

it looks like even gaps on both sides of the slide at the bottom

I retracted the slide all the way out and it seem to have the same gap on the inside also at the bottom

as far as the slide it seem to be right at floor level in or out on the slide so no I don't think it move up or down

when I run it out or in it's slide in and out very easy so my problem can't be the stop because when I retracted it out to full it has the same gap on the inside at the bottom the side on the inside auxiliary side

may be out a little more then the master side their a wall their so I have to just feel it's seem to be around 1 inch out at the bottom on both sides even when in or out on the slide.

OK this info helps.

It sounds like your slide is not made to pivot up off the carpet when the slide comes in. The slide room just slides sort of straight in and out at the same level. This is common on some brands. Understood. I needed to know that as if it did lift up off the carpet then we have to take that into consideration when adjusting anything.

You made this statement and I need to confirm we have this correct.

Quote:
it looks like even gaps on both sides of the slide at the bottom

I retracted the slide all the way out and it seem to have the same gap on the inside also at the bottom
Please confirm I have this right below.
  • When the slide room is extended full out, inside the camper there is about a 1" gap at the "bottom" of the slide flange to the wall on both the front and rear of the slide.
  • When the slide room is retracted full in, outside the camper there is about a 1" gap at the "bottom" of the slide flange to the wall on both the front and rear of the slide.

If this is what you have, then that helps eliminate a lot of things. This points to the full "in" stop being slightly out of adjustment and the full "out" stop being slightly out of adjustment. Those 2 directions have different adjustments. And they are global adjustments, meaning when adjusted both both ends of the slide will move the same amount.

Please confirm I have understood the problem correctly above before I get into how to adjust and what to look for.

Another need, what model year and model number is your Springdale? Depending on age of the camper, some parts do wear over time and I can tell you where to look if some parts are worn which can cause some of the problem.

Thanks and hope this helps

John
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Old 07-17-2018, 05:04 PM   #7
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Yes you are correct John their a 1 inch gap at the front and rear of slide fully in or fully out
The camper is a 2007 keystone Springdale limited 285 rl enclosed a picture of model but sorth of hard to make out after the 285
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Old 07-19-2018, 10:47 PM   #8
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Hi,

Since your camper is a 2007, a large amount wear in the bronze bushings of the pinion gears is possible. This will all "depend" on how much use it had over it's life, the location of the pinion gears in relation to road splash, dirt in the gears and if the prior owners ever greased the bushings/gears.

When the bushings wear out the gears drop down from the gear rack and start wearing very wrong. It may also jump a tooth or more as there is so much play in the gears that it can jump teeth. I have seen that the pinion shaft bushing at the master rack where the square shaft starts to drive the auxiliary rack, wears the most. All of the bushings can be shot and the bushing housing. LCI does sell all the parts to rebuild the system.

This is fairly easy to see if you go looking for it. Many folks really do not know about this and it does not get much attention unit it stops working. Which can be around maybe 8 to 12 years old pending how it was used. Mine went 13 years before I noticed the wear and I changed the bushings before the gearing was affected. I do grease the bushings and gears. I'm also lucky enough the gearing is not outside the frame getting a lot of road splash in it. I corrected a friends camper that was a 2005 a year ago and it ate up the pinion housing as there was no bushing left. The auxiliary slide arms bushing were shot too. There was no lube and lots of rust in the system. She found the slide working hard and that is how the problem was found and had jumped teeth the wear was so bad. My sons 2006 camper this year had a bushing change as a pre-emptive move as there was enough wear to warrant a bushing rebuild before things started to work wrong.

This post will show what bushing wear looks like and how to repair if you want to take this on yourself. Lippert Slide Drive: Pinion Shaft Bushing Rebuild (lots of pics)

I bring that up as if you have worn bushings or gearing that should be corrected before trying to adjust the slide. A worn system can create some of the problem you are reporting on the auxiliary slide arm.

Assuming you have good gearing, or you replaced the gearing and still have the same 1" gap on both in and out of the slide then this is how you adjust the slide. This procedure will move both ends of the slide at once. It is not to be used if only one end of the slide room is not in the correct location. Those are different settings.

A few big picture general guidelines.

First, all adjustments as you found them should be documented. Meaning measure or mark somehow so that you can always go back to that same measurement if needed.

Second, do slide adjustments in small amounts. If you are after a 1" gap, do a few smaller adjustments first and make sure the gap is closing. A 1/8" move on adjustment does not always equal a 1/8" gap reduction. Sneak up on the measurement so you do not overcompress the system.

The extend full out adjustment. Do this adjustment first.

This is done at the master rack. First a little explanation on the master rack system. The stroke of the slide motor system, (meaning the max distance it has mechanically to move) is more stroke distance then the width of the slide room. Meaning if you over adjust this, you can be putting a lot of excess pressure on the walls and the slide room. The goal is that on the exend full out of the master rack, the ACME screw system of the master rack will reach full out mechanical end of stroke. The motor has a clutch on it that will trip when the ACME screw reaches end of stroke. A clunk, clunk, clunk ratcheting sound can be heard on many of these LCI units which is the clutch tripping.

Since they want the master rack to reach full out stroke and trip the clutch on the extend out motion, they made an adjustment system so the slide room will "stop" moving out at the same time the clutch trips if adjusted correctly. At this end of stroke stopping point the slide flanges are compressed "tight" and even top and bottom but the slide flanges are not to be over compressed hurting the slide room wall. Right now, your room should be reaching full out master rack stroke but the slide room is not yet full out. We need to change that relationship.

Look on your master rack from this threaded rod and jam nuts.


This is from the older LCI manual


What they call the Nylock nut and Jam nut 2 is what you will adjust to move the slide room "out" further than it normally goes. By loosening the nylock nut out to create a "1/4" gap between the nylock nut and the slide arm attachment plate, then tightening jam nut 2 will shift the slide room out approx 1/4" as jam nut 2 progresses in movement. You will move jam nut 2 until the gap is totally closed and slide arm plate and nylock nut are all tight against each other.

To make that adjustment, you do not do it at full stroke. Move the slide out some distance short of full out. 1/2 way out to 3/4 the way out so you can get in to work on it and make your adjustment. Tighten everything up from your adjustment and test the slide in and out and see how much gap you closed up of your 1". Determine if you need to move it more and then re-adjust as needed. As you get closer to closing up the 1" gap, go in fine adjustments at the end. It is better to be 1/8" short then an 1/8" over compressed. Overcompressiung hurts the slide seals over time and in extreme cases damages the wall or the slide room flanges over time of over compressing.

Once the slide room extend "out" motion is correct, then do the slide room "in" settings.

The retract full in adjustment. Do this after the slide out settings are correct.

In this case of the "in" motion you do "not" want the master rack ACME screw motion to reach the end of its full retract mechanical stroke. When adjusted correctly, the system will stop and stall out before you reach the full in end of the mechanical stroke. They do this on purpose so they do not have to make the slide room width the exact dimension of the ACME screw system stroke. Your clutch may trip on the retract in stroke or the slide room may simply stop with a slight grunt and you let your finger off the slide button. The DC motor will stall out and stop.

Back to these 2 pictures.

There is a stop can and jam nut 1 locking the stop can in place.




The goal is that the slide flanges actually reache correct full compression at the same time the stop can bottoms out on the camper frame. And the frame I beam web may flex some from the stop can pressing on it. LCI has told me this is normal for the frame to flex a little bit.

To make this adjustment, extend out the slide 1/2 to 3/4 of the way so you can reach the stop can and jam nut 1. To move the slide room flanges "in" closer to the camper wall flanges when fully retracted in is reached, you loosen jam nut 1 and screw the stop can away from the camper. Start with 1/4" movement out of the stop can for your 1" problem and tighten jam nut 1. Test the system and be watching the stop can and the slide room flanges compress at the same time. Someone needs to be inside and work the switch. Make further tweaks as needed. The goal is both the slide seals compress correctly and the stop can rests on the frame at the same time.

Hope this helps and let us know how you make out.

Thanks

John
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Old 07-21-2018, 11:22 AM   #9
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Ok thank you John I did all the adjustment today it went very good close gap on both and the gear system is in great shape I assume the camper was not used much but I did it as you direct me and it went great again ty so much for all the info on this matter.have a God bless day.
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Old 07-21-2018, 08:34 PM   #10
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Hi Tennessee,

Your welcome. And...

Great!!! Glad this worked out and now you learned some about your slide system and what to look for.

Happy camping this summer.

John
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