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Old 07-02-2011, 03:02 PM   #41
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Too many interruptions today, but did get my wiring done and cleaned up. No good position to do this in, and me with my bad back! My sciatic nerve is speaking to me...

If you look back at any of my previous post pics, you could see what I started out with. I ripped everything out, then quickly wired it for Tear Up the Adirondacks 1st weekend of June. Needed to re-do it to free up space in this lower rear hatch. You can see in the right side pic wires for both the tail light, and marker lights as well. I believe I will cover a good portion of the back of the hatch where all the wires run with a piece of luan fastened so it comes off easy. That will protect most everything, and allow free use of the space for other stuff.

Been one thing after another! Next is scissor jacks.

Frank
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Old 07-02-2011, 04:20 PM   #42
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The wiring did clean up good. Now you can store lots of stuff without breaking the lights. Might make a wiring diagram so you do not forget what you've done. Maybe.

I wouldn't give the back a break if I were you so just keep on pushing it. Bending over to get those jacks should be good for the back.

jim
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Old 07-02-2011, 04:33 PM   #43
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Everything is color coded Jim, no worries there! Green, right turn, yellow, left turn, brown, stop & tail and white is ground. Everything when I started was red!

I will probably label the junction strip just for the heck of it.

Frank
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Old 07-02-2011, 05:04 PM   #44
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Everything is color coded Jim, no worries there! Green, right turn, yellow, left turn, brown, stop & tail and white is ground. Everything when I started was red!

I will probably label the junction strip just for the heck of it.

Frank

I was thinking more about where you put wires as well as the color codes. One thing is for sure, if you don't use it, you'll loose it. If you don't use the colorcode often, and if they werk you will not, then a diagram with color codes and locations will save time when there is a problem.

It really does look neat. I might need your help when I rewire the utility trailer.

jim
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Old 07-02-2011, 05:44 PM   #45
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Jim, I have built, rebuilt, and wired so many trailers (and tow vehicles to use trailers) over the years I can't keep count. I wired Spot for standard utility or boat trailer wiring for now. Blue wire would add brakes, but I'm not there yet. When I wire in my 7 wire cable for standard RV wiring, I will run those "funny" colors to corresponding screws on the bottom of the junction block. I'm good with this stuff and know it off the top of my pointy little head!

Frank
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Old 07-02-2011, 05:53 PM   #46
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Sounds good enough to me then.

jim
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Old 07-02-2011, 06:19 PM   #47
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What kind of utility trailer ya got Jim? Does it have brakes? While I have a lot of what I call wiring "tricks" one of them is I run a ground to EVERY light. Doesn't have to be much. I keep a 100' roll of 18 ga. white wire just for such uses, plus I buy my standard 4 wire trailer sheath by the 100' roll too! Drag that old trailer up here and I'll wire it such that it will never fail, except maybe a bulb...

Looks like I'm getting a couple days off, sumpin 'bout our first grandchild coming out soon! Off to Buffalo tomorrow a.m.!

Frank
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Old 07-02-2011, 06:59 PM   #48
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It is just a simple 5 by 10 without brakes. Holds about 4,000#. I put all LED lights on it and it shines brite in the dark. I am going to move the brake lights to the rear from the spot that is two feet from the rear. I'll have to extend the wires but I want solid, non-spliced wires, so the rewire job.

I'm going to add LED lights to the back of out TT so I'll have both kind of lights, LED and regular. In Florida they like to write tickets for lights not working so I wanted two sets to cut the chances in half.

Congrats on the first grand. I've got 17 and they are all special unless they are all in the same room at one time.

jim
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Old 07-02-2011, 07:07 PM   #49
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Gee!

Wire splices are easy, and will stand the test of time. Pretty much everything you hook up to a harness is spiced. I never figured out soldering, so crimp and use liquid electrical tape on everything. Been doing that since the early 90's, when I first read about it in a book on restoring old boats. I rigorously test all my crimps, then liquid electric tape them. I swear by the stuff.

Having said that, yeah, I'd do the same thing, just rewire the trailer. It's easy to do and very inexpensive.

Enjoy the weekend!

Frank
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Old 07-02-2011, 07:11 PM   #50
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Never tried teh liquid tape, must do that. Since it is just a small nothing job I'll rewire.

REclinertime for this oldman. Have a good night and a better tomorrow.

jim
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Old 07-02-2011, 07:13 PM   #51
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Tomorrow is gonna be better for SURE!

Enjoy!

Frank
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Old 07-03-2011, 06:30 AM   #52
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I'm going to add LED lights to the back of out TT so I'll have both kind of lights, LED and regular. In Florida they like to write tickets for lights not working so I wanted two sets to cut the chances in half.
Jim, I added LED fixtures to the existing RV S/T/T (stop/turn/tail) ones a couple of years ago:


They are standard 6" oval surface mount fixtures, readily available on Ebay and elsewhere for about $25 a pair.

I traced an outline of the fixture onto some 1/8" black ABS sheeting and cut it out to create a backer plate. Then it was a simple matter of dropping the existing fixture off to get at the wires. I drilled 1" holes in the skin where the LED's were to go, and was able to fish all three wires down to the RV fixtures and connect them up. A little caulk, some careful insertion of SS sheet metal screws, and the project was done.
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Old 07-03-2011, 07:38 AM   #53
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Hi Steve,

I like the looks of your job. I do have some of the aluminum left to make the mounting plate. Do you remember which direction the wires were inside? Did the wires from the factory lights go up from the floor or down the wall?

jim
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Old 07-03-2011, 07:57 AM   #54
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Jim, if it's anything like my Sunspot, wires for everything came up from under the trailer into my little hatch. Generally trailer wiring runs underneath. Crawl under that baby and take a look as to where it goes up into the trailer.

We have a nice healthy baby grandson this morning (future camper no doubt), Mason Anthony Alguire. This is the best pic I have right now...

Frank
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Old 07-03-2011, 08:10 AM   #55
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Jim, if it's anything like my Sunspot, wires for everything came up from under the trailer into my little hatch. Generally trailer wiring runs underneath. Crawl under that baby and take a look as to where it goes up into the trailer.

We have a nice healthy baby grandson this morning (future camper no doubt), Mason Anthony Alguire. This is the best pic I have right now...

Frank

And what a great looking guy that is. Looks big and healty. Probably thinking about taking a big poop.

I'll check those wires.

jim
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Old 07-03-2011, 08:23 AM   #56
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Yup, doing okay Jim, except I couldn't go to see him. Woke up, back feeling great, but some kind of bug has me weak, in cold sweats, just tired and miserable... except for being a grandpa now!

Frank
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Old 07-03-2011, 08:44 AM   #57
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Hope you don't have the kind I had. Really bad for a couple weeks. LIved on caugh drops, antihistamines and chicken soup. I lived.

I went to the hospital when the babies were born but felt out of place. All those people doing stuff and I was always told to move. My best move would have been to the house.

jim
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Old 07-03-2011, 08:55 AM   #58
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Too many interruptions today, but did get my wiring done and cleaned up. No good position to do this in, and me with my bad back! My sciatic nerve is speaking to me...
Frank,

Your handy work is excellent! Good jog and thanks for sharing.

The back pain, yes I know of this as I have a similar situation. To make a long story short, I now go monthly to a chiropractor. If you find a good one they do help and now the health insurance does cover so many visits a year. If I miss that monthly adjustment I can tell for sure the issues are starting back to happening again.

When I work on in the yard or the camper with lots of up and down and bending I have found if I wear my back support belt, (aka waist belt, back belt etc) the big wide 9" elastic band type with suspenders, that makes a big difference on how I feel at the end of the day... They sell these at most lumber yards etc. Need one long enough to make sure the girth fits ones style. Looks like these Back Support Belt

If I do any type of chain saw work for hours it is a must or I'm a pretzel come the end of the day. Between the vibration and deep leaning it takes it's toll.

Something to look into that may help.

Good luck

John

PS Get a good quality one. The cheapo ones are just that, cheap. Do not work as good and fall apart a lot quicker
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Old 07-03-2011, 10:16 AM   #59
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Hi Steve,

I like the looks of your job. I do have some of the aluminum left to make the mounting plate. Do you remember which direction the wires were inside? Did the wires from the factory lights go up from the floor or down the wall?

jim
Jim, the wiring comes up from the bottom of the TT.

If you pull off the RV STT fixtures, all of the wires you will need are right there, and enter the skin of the TT through a 1" hole. I extended the wires on the new lights, drilled a similar hole where the new ones will be, and fished them down. Used 3M wire taps with some dielectric grease and I was done.

Helpful hint on pulling off the RV STT's. Do it on a warm day when that side of the TT is in the sun. After you pull the screws, the sun should have warmed the putty tape enough that you can get a 1" putty knife in the to get it loosened up and it should pull right off.
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Old 07-03-2011, 10:44 AM   #60
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Steve, The factory lights do need to be removed and recaulked. Not sure if I'll mount the new lights up or down but they will be close as yours are.

Thanks for the hint on the warm putty. I have a post-it note made so I don't forget.

jim
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