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Old 08-19-2013, 09:17 PM   #1
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Reese Dual Cam HP

I'm looking for a reese dual cam hp setup to add to my 2004 t2363, after a 4 hour tow to ocean city Maryland this past weekend getting pushed around by big rigs and even small suv's im really thinking I would like to have a sway control system. any information or leads are appreciated. thanks for your time... Mike
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Old 08-19-2013, 09:49 PM   #2
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Etrailer is one source:
Strait-Line Weight Distribution System w Sway Control - Trunnion Bar - 10,000 lbs GTW, 800 lbs TW Reese Weight Distribution RP66083

PPL Motorhomes is another source:
Hitch and Sway Bars Combination on Sale - PPL Motor Homes


The tongue weight on my 2363 is about 650# so 800# bars would be a good choice, that is what I use.
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Old 08-19-2013, 10:01 PM   #3
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I have 1200# bars, I was looking to add the dual cam setup to it to try and keep some of the sway out, cruising I-695 3 lanes wide and being pushed around isn't fun, and the winds blowing across on 50 heading back from OC didn't help much
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Old 08-19-2013, 10:29 PM   #4
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Absolutely ditto what Gene said. We have a 2002 T-2363 and upgraded to a Reese Dual-cam HP earlier this year, with 800-lb. bars, just as Gene has. 1200-lb. bars will be too stiff for your application; that is to say, they will not flex enough under load to provide adequate weight distribution with your present set-up.

We've been delighted with our Reese hitch. A good test of the towing stability it can provide came last month when we towed our trailer to Gettysburg. Not long after we started out--on a fairly breezy day, mind you--we were passed by two tractor-trailers in a row. Those rigs were moving quite fast, and their passage didn't cause our rig to move even one little bit side-to-side. Additionally, we've found that the set-up tows with great stability even under normal conditions, that is, without any factors that might cause sway to develop, such as heavy truck traffic, substantial winds, and so forth. It's truly hard to tell that the trailer is back there, unless one looks in the mirror.

We also bought our hitch from e-trailer.com. Their prices are almost unbeatable, and their customer service is outstanding. And: how can you match free shipping on an 85-lb. product???
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Old 08-19-2013, 10:36 PM   #5
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This is good to hear, I will be checking into the dual cam setup, we booked our trip for 2014 in OC MD so I will have it installed before our next adventure down. Which campground in Gettysburg did you stay at? We stayed in Gettysburg all the time when we first purchased our sunny, roughly once or twice a month, now our usual spots are paradise stream and spring gulch and of course castaways in OC.
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Old 08-20-2013, 10:13 AM   #6
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Mike,

When you get your Reese dual cam hitch installed, make sure it's by someone who has installed DC hitches and knows what they're doing. Ours was installed by a RV dealer/repair service and it was installed wrong. We had to totally re-install it ourselves with the help of SOC member, JohnB. The upside of that was that it turned out to be a good learning experience for us.

We stayed at Caledonia SP (Chinquapin Hill) and Pine Grove Furnace SP. Both pretty nice. You mentioned Spring Gulch CG, is that the one in eastern Lancaster Co.?
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Old 08-20-2013, 01:06 PM   #7
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Since you already have the hitch head and hangers and stuff another option is to buy just the cams which can be used with the existing bars:
Reese Dual Cam High-Performance Sway Control Reese Weight Distribution RP26002

This could save a significant amount of $$$. I would recommend also getting the 800# bars. As Matthew said, 1200# bars are too stiff for a 2363.

Also agree that JohnB is the expert here on setting up the Dual Cam. He has several posts with great pictures showing the setup.
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Old 08-20-2013, 02:05 PM   #8
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Yes that is spring gulch, a nice place with good activities for holidays, we are trying to book for this Halloween, but this late in the season is hard. Gene, the kit is what I am looking at, and I know a good shop that I will have install for me, I am pretty handy with this type of stuff but my nerves will get the best of me with worrying if I did it right, so I will have it done by someone with more experience. And I will also mention the 1200 # bars to him as well. Thank you all for your replies. Mike
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Old 08-25-2013, 11:23 AM   #9
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Hi Mike,

What exact WD hitch do you have now? Any chance of some pics of it either attached to the camper or even laying on the floor. We can recognize it most times and that helps on these types of trouble shitting efforts. Knowing what it is you have.

Many have done the older add on DC kit and had good sucess some not such good luck as they where starting with very worn hitch head to start with. The failure was he had an older Husky hitch, was never greased in the trunnion sockets like was suppose to and adding the DC ripped the WD bar right out of the head going around a turn. In this case, it is not the DC's fault, it was that he had a worn out hitch head and had almost no trunnion lug engagement. The DC puts a good deal of tension on the WD bars going through turns. Not tying to scare you, just help so you do not get something that will later be more an issue.

I also agree on getting lower rated WD bars on that size camper. Again with the DC. If your loaded tongue weight is approx 700 # and using 1,200# WD bars, that is a lot of extra force potential on such a small A frame TT. The connection between TT and TV will be very stiff and given the wrong conditions, A frame issues (bending) may be a result of the WD bar that is potentially 70% heavier than the load it is being used for.

Adding the DC will even more aggravate the situation as it is on purpose increasing the WD effect when the truck turns as the bar rides up on the cam.

Being pushed around while towing, using anti sway controls is a good part of a stable towing rig, however it is only 1 part. Tire pressures, tire type, truck suspension, turck wheel base, TT weight and balance and WD hitch setup play an equal role. Each needs to be optimized to the best it can be for what you have to work with.

What is the TV you have now and do you have any form of anti sway control?

Glad to help as I can.

Thanks

John
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Old 08-25-2013, 11:56 AM   #10
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Hi John,
I know the WD is a reese setup, I will have to get pictures tonight after work, the TV is a 2007 ram 1500 4x4 tires are BFG AT KO's, they're are a stiffer tire (E rated), that's all I could get for my rim size. I run them at 50 psi in all corners, some say to run them higher, but I've also heard of people going to high and having then ride on the centers instead of the whole width of the tire causing a wobble effect. I am going to get the dual cam kit and install myself as well as double check the WD setup, and I'm going to also price "lighter" bars. The trailer was setup by Days RV in Maryland with my old TV, they told me they gave me 1200# bars and i would be set if i ever got a bigger trailer, being 18 years old and very new to towing a canper i went with it, now im realizing there is more of a science to it instead of just throwing chains and bars on the back off the truck. I adjusted the Hitch head and bars after I purchased the Ram. So I will go through and double check everything again and install the DC.
Thank you for the reply and information.

Mike
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Old 05-15-2014, 11:36 AM   #11
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I know this is a very old thread, but I am getting the camper ready for the season and I was looking around for light bars for my 2363, and all I found for replacement bars were 600-1200 # bars. If the bar is rated between 600 and 1200, will the help me with the stiffness of my 1200# bars?
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Old 05-15-2014, 11:56 AM   #12
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I did find a 400-800# bar, and a 200-600# bar from etrailer, which would be more my range for my trailer? Is it roughly 10% of the total weight of the trailer? Empty is rated at 4200#. Maybe close to 5,000# loaded? Thanks for any help in advance, Mike.
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Old 05-15-2014, 02:19 PM   #13
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If I remember correctly - someone on here had them for sale....I'll see if I can find them and add a link

Just found it - it was Bob & Kathy but it has been sold ------sorry!
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Old 05-15-2014, 02:56 PM   #14
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Ok thanks for looking into that, Mike
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Old 05-15-2014, 09:16 PM   #15
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When I bought my 2363 I had 600# bars put on by the dealer for my Dual Cam. It took me a season to realize that the 520# hitch weight shown on the brochure was really the DRY weight. I bought 800# bars from Etrailer. I have since measured the real weight with a Sherline scale and my loaded weight is around 650#. I think 1200# bars would be overkill on a 2363 and way too stiff.
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Old 05-15-2014, 09:21 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bechtel106 View Post
.... Maybe close to 5,000# loaded? ....
Yup, right on, mine hits the scale at 5100# loaded to travel.
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Old 05-15-2014, 09:23 PM   #17
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Ok, thanks for your help Gene.
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Old 05-19-2014, 10:01 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bechtel106 View Post
I did find a 400-800# bar, and a 200-600# bar from etrailer, which would be more my range for my trailer? Is it roughly 10% of the total weight of the trailer? Empty is rated at 4200#. Maybe close to 5,000# loaded? Thanks for any help in advance, Mike.
Hi Mike,

The 800# bars will be better than the 600,(too light) or the 1,200#, too heavy.

The best ride is to have the tongue weight = the WD bar rating. And being equal is perfectly OK. Just a lot more is not good and you can damage a bar or the camper frame pending the situation.

We have several hear with the T2363 and they range over 600# but under 800# in loaded tongue weight. See here for some loaded camper weights Sunline Camper Actual Loaded Tongue/Pin Weights

Good luck and hope this helps

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Old 05-20-2014, 08:48 AM   #19
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Thank you John, very helpful as usual. Mike
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Old 05-20-2014, 10:54 AM   #20
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I found all my pieces and parts on craigslist and eBay.
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