Sunline RV Forum
Sunline User Photos

Go Back   Sunline Coach Owner's Club > Sunline Club Community Forums > Introduce Yourself
Click Here to Login

Join Sunline Club Forums Today


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 05-31-2017, 07:51 AM   #1
Member
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 35
SUN #9421
UNIXdude is an unknown quantity at this point
Noob in South New Jersey (1988 T-2263)

Greetings everyone!

I recently purchased a 1988 Sunline Satellite T-2263 from a member of my radio club. It's been in his family for many, many years, but no longer meets his needs and is in need of some TLC he does not have the time to complete. While searching for more information (why blaze new ground when you can learn from others who have already been down a similar path) regarding the issues that require immediate attention.

I grew up tent camping in CA, spent summer vacations tent camping in places like Humboldt National Forest, Manzanita Lake at Mt Lasson and bicycle camping along the coast of Oregon and CA. I relocated to NJ about 11 years ago, got married and started a family. We have a 5 yr old (5 and a half if you ask my daughter) and want to give my family the wonderful experience and foster the fond memories I have from camping.

My T-2263 already has water intrusion issues, on the "passenger" side, so I know I have some work to do to make it a good solid camper. Since this is my first camper, I have many questions, but I will use the search function before asking here (I'm not a noob to forums, search several times first, then search some more using different terms and/or order, then post question if still not sure).

My first order of business is to identify and stop the water intrusion. Then I'll open up the known damaged areas, dry out the camper with a de-humidifier, remove/repair/replace the damaged parts and put humpty-dumpty back together again. The awning needs to have the fabric/vinyl replaced (I need help identifying what specific manufacturer of this awning is). I want to replace all the carpet with vinyl or some other kind of durable flooring that is easier to keep clean.

The biggest question is where to start? Do I reseal the corners and any leaks in the roof first, or do I open things up first to determine what needs to be done. I do not have access to indoor space, so this will be stored outside in the elements.

Once the repairs are complete, I have some upgrades in mind, like adding solar panels to the roof, upgrading the electrical (batteries, charge controller and inverter), add an access/pass through panel for amateur radio antenna connections and replace leveling jack stands with crank-down kind.

If you made it this far and you're still awake, reply below to let me know.

Stay tuned, there will be many more questions to come....
__________________

__________________
UNIXdude is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2017, 09:06 AM   #2
Member
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 35
SUN #9421
UNIXdude is an unknown quantity at this point
I've identified the awning as "Faulkner" and found the following website which carries used parts and replacement awning fabric/vinyl - RV Awnings New/Used/Rebuilt. Anybody done business with them?
__________________

__________________
UNIXdude is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2017, 02:38 PM   #3
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Maine
Posts: 100
SUN #8853
ggrvguy is an unknown quantity at this point
Welcome aboard. You'll find a wealth of information and very helpful members here. My 2 cents, get it sealed the best you can if it's staying outside. If you plan on tearing things apart from the inside to repair it, you may find you'll have to remove some of those outside moldings that you already sealed but I think that will be the least of your problems. I think once you start tearing apart the inside , you'll have a better idea where the water was coming in. You may have to put a tarp over it to protect the outside while you have it apart. I had to do the floor in my Sunline and I used a cheap Laminate I bought at the Depot. Pretty easy job once the plywood under it was solid. You can buy Awning fabrics on ebay that are universal and will fit most any brand of awning, Some of the hardware parts maybe a little more difficult to find for Faulkner awnings. Submit some pictures when you get a chance and wait for responses to pour in. Good Luck.
Gary G
__________________
1990 StarRay T170
2008 Chevy Silverado 1500
ggrvguy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2017, 03:55 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
johnnybgood's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Maryland
Posts: 405
SUN #8237
johnnybgood is an unknown quantity at this point
Welcome from Maryland.

I'm not sure where I'd start on the repairs. I see people do it different ways.

Some repair interior walls from the inside without removing the aluminum siding. But I wonder if your not better off removing the siding. I'm a novice so take it for what it's worth.

It helps to understand that, unlike a house, a camper is built from the inside out. Not all cabinet screws are accessible without removing the siding.

Member Thomacine has a good thread on here documenting what he's endured recently and member JohnB has numerous threads with tons of pics.

Good luck on your project.
__________________
John
2000 T2370
johnnybgood is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2017, 06:54 PM   #5
sep
Senior Member
 
sep's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 154
SUN #7710
sep is an unknown quantity at this point
Greetings from the CT/RI border. First things first! We need pictures, Dude! LOL!


And for your reading pleasure, check out what I have been doing to mine to get it ready to camp this season. It may help answer some of your questions without having to dig.


Fixing up my 2000 Sunline Solaris T-2653


This is my 3rd camper and my kids were 5 and 8 when we started and are now 18 and 21 so lets get busy as time flies.


Steve
__________________
Steve P
sep is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2017, 07:35 AM   #6
Senior Member
 
Wannabes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 725
SUN #4050
Wannabes is an unknown quantity at this point
Welcome to the SOC and congrats on the 2263! You get plenty of help here and, if you can, post pixs b/c it helps us too.
__________________

Matthew and Lisa
TT: '02 T-2363;
TV: 2012 Ford F-150, 4x4/Off-road, 5.0L V8, "Big Gray"
Reese Straitline w/ dual cam
Wannabes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2017, 06:19 PM   #7
Moderator
 
JohnB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 9,914
SUN #89
JohnB is on a distinguished road
Hi UNIXdude,

Welcome to Sunline Owners Club!! Glad to have you with us and congrats on your Sunny. UNIX, that is unique screen name, like a computer UNIX system maybe?

Thanks for the camping time line too. That was very nice. And good for you getting your kids into this early on. Make those memories!!! They last a life time.

Now to your camper. Where to start... I agree, you need to stop any new water from getting in, even if this is a temporary fix. One option which can be fast is a big tarp and a lot of rope so it will not blow off in the wind. Since you do not have an inside place to work at, sooner or later odds are high you will need that tarp anyway.

A heads up on caulking if you go that route as your temporary fix, do not use silicone for a roof sealant. While silicone is a good product, it has very limited uses on an RV and the roof is not one of them. It cannot handle the flex of the camper and the heat and cold to stay bonded. It is not a long term repair, it is short lived. And the worst, it is extremely hard to get off the silicone residue to have better product stick. See this product as a sealant. It is primarily for rubber roofs but it will bond to your metal roof and aluminum moldings to create a good seal that is made for an RV application. https://dicorproducts.com/product/ep.../#installation

If you are going to do a repair, the need is to find the leak source or sources. There may be more then 1 and it may not be where you think it started. But you have to start somewhere. Posting pics really helps us see what you are up against and we can make better suggestions.

Here is another help, a moisture meter you can scan the inside walls and ceiling to see what is wet behind it. See this post for more help on this. Moisture Meters For Inspecting a Camper

Once you see how big or small the water issue is, then it is better to understand how to start the repair. There may be a lot more wet behind the wall that you are not seeing. By the time the water is visible on the inside, it could be wet inside the wall, ceiling or floor in many areas for a real long time. Years worth.

You talked about searching to forum. There is an embedded software search in our forum software. It does work but it is hard to get hits on things in some cases. Our admin made us a Custom Google Search for Sunline Club. This search tool works a lot better. Book mark this link. Put your topic in the "Google Custom Search" box and hit go and read on...

https://cse.google.com/cse/home?cx=0...95:95x3m3w6lto

When you get into this repair, take out a new post in the Repair and Maintenance section so we can keep your repair all in one place. This helps you and others in the future when they start looking.

Hope this helps and good luck.

John
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
JohnB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2017, 06:42 PM   #8
sep
Senior Member
 
sep's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 154
SUN #7710
sep is an unknown quantity at this point
I just checked out some of your pictures and answered your question about what's under the step. Like John B mentioned, start a new thread with those pics and any repair pics as those albums are nice but hard to do Q&As.


Steve
__________________
Steve P
sep is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2017, 07:11 PM   #9
Member
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 35
SUN #9421
UNIXdude is an unknown quantity at this point
Thank you everyone for the warm welcome!

@JohnB - you are absolutely correct, UNIX, the awesome operating system (I'm allergic to windows and my checkbook is allergic to mac's).

The water issues are in 2 known spots and I'm sure there is more lurking. The floor inside the first door, closest to the tow hitch, is rotted out and has a plywood band-aid on it. The wall below the dinner table, on the same wall as the door is bulging out and damp at the bottom.

The second place, which is worse, is on the same side of the trailer, but on the back wall, to the left of the rear door when you are outside, looking in, as well as the back wall. The floor is rotted in that corner, so I know I have to address the floor sooner, rather than later. I'll get some pictures posted on my supermotors account soon.

In a quick glance on the outside, the vinyl cover over the molding holding the corners together is breaking down and will need to be replaced. I was thinking about resealing all of the corners, but I am slightly hesitant until I know if I going to have to remove any of the exterior aluminum panels. There is also a light fixture in the middle of the back wall that looks like it needs to be sealed. If I'm lucky, that will be the source of the water, in the back half at least.

If there is anyone in the Philadelphia area, I'm on the other side of the Delaware River, that would like to stop by and help me assess what needs to be done as the best order to do the work in, that would be awesome. PM me if you're interested.

My high level plan is the stop the water source/sources on the exterior, then attack the rear bedroom first, probably ripping out the bed and walls, then setting up a dehumidifier to really dry it out. Then rebuild what needs rebuilding. Once completely done with the rear, then attack the front room. I don't want it to be down all summer, so by breaking up the work, I'm crossing my fingers I can still take my daughter out camping while it is a work-in-progress. Obviously, I will not know until I get in there and start pealing the layers off the onion.

Any recommendations on what products to use the replace the interior wall with? I'm assuming about 1/3 of mine will need to be replaced, so to make it consistent and aesthetically pleasing, I will probably end up replacing all of the walls.
__________________
UNIXdude is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2017, 09:21 PM   #10
Moderator
 
JohnB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 9,914
SUN #89
JohnB is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by UNIXdude View Post
Any recommendations on what products to use the replace the interior wall with? I'm assuming about 1/3 of mine will need to be replaced, so to make it consistent and aesthetically pleasing, I will probably end up replacing all of the walls.

Wall board has always been an issue. Some lumber yards have 1/8" paneling, choices are limited but it is an option. It is a search and destroy mission finding this.

Anther option which is close to what Sunline did or does on the newer campers.

They use 1/8 luan plywood. It is light, can be glued and stapled to the wall studs but yet will hold what can be glued to it as a covering. Then use commercial wall paper and glue it to the luan. SEP (Steve) is doing this now I believe on his camper. We have both found the commercial wall paper option but he may be the first to glue it on. The commercial wall paper is a heavy and strong wall paper used in commercial buildings. What I saw was 4 feet wide. Steve I think found 2 foot wide. This is tough stuff and would hold up, but we have to sort out the glue. This gives you lots of choices to pick from and can look really good when done.

Hope this helps.

John
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
JohnB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2017, 06:58 PM   #11
Member
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 35
SUN #9421
UNIXdude is an unknown quantity at this point















__________________
UNIXdude is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2017, 07:24 PM   #12
sep
Senior Member
 
sep's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 154
SUN #7710
sep is an unknown quantity at this point
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB View Post
Wall board has always been an issue. Some lumber yards have 1/8" paneling, choices are limited but it is an option. It is a search and destroy mission finding this.

Anther option which is close to what Sunline did or does on the newer campers.

They use 1/8 luan plywood. It is light, can be glued and stapled to the wall studs but yet will hold what can be glued to it as a covering. Then use commercial wall paper and glue it to the luan. SEP (Steve) is doing this now I believe on his camper. We have both found the commercial wall paper option but he may be the first to glue it on. The commercial wall paper is a heavy and strong wall paper used in commercial buildings. What I saw was 4 feet wide. Steve I think found 2 foot wide. This is tough stuff and would hold up, but we have to sort out the glue. This gives you lots of choices to pick from and can look really good when done.

Hope this helps.

John
Guys,

Here is the wallboard that I used. It was 10 bucks a sheet at Home Depot. It is just about the right thickness. The commercial vinyl wallpaper is 27" wide and comes in double rolls so I got enough to do just the back room that had the damage.

Steve
Attached Images
File Type: jpg wallboard info.jpg (116.3 KB, 8 views)
File Type: jpg wallpaper for shasta 1.jpg (75.1 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg wallpaper for shasta 2.jpg (62.5 KB, 5 views)
__________________
Steve P
sep is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2017, 07:30 PM   #13
sep
Senior Member
 
sep's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 154
SUN #7710
sep is an unknown quantity at this point
Quote:
Originally Posted by UNIXdude View Post
















The camper looks good and the damage doesn't look too bad. You may want to get some dicor non-leveling caulk and cover over the screws on the corner/roof trim since the vinyl trim cover is missing in some spots that I could see.

Steve
__________________
Steve P
sep is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2017, 08:17 PM   #14
Moderator
 
JohnB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 9,914
SUN #89
JohnB is on a distinguished road
Hi again, trying to line up your pics to your wording.

Quote:
Originally Posted by UNIXdude View Post
The water issues are in 2 known spots and I'm sure there is more lurking. The floor inside the first door, closest to the tow hitch, is rotted out and has a plywood band-aid on it. The wall below the dinner table, on the same wall as the door is bulging out and damp at the bottom.
The entry door


The table area




Quote:
Originally Posted by UNIXdude View Post
The second place, which is worse, is on the same side of the trailer, but on the back wall, to the left of the rear door when you are outside, looking in, as well as the back wall. The floor is rotted in that corner, so I know I have to address the floor sooner, rather than later.
I think this is the rotted floor you mean, yes/no?






And the back wall



Quote:
Originally Posted by UNIXdude View Post
In a quick glance on the outside, the vinyl cover over the molding holding the corners together is breaking down and will need to be replaced. I was thinking about resealing all of the corners, but I am slightly hesitant until I know if I going to have to remove any of the exterior aluminum panels. There is also a light fixture in the middle of the back wall that looks like it needs to be sealed. If I'm lucky, that will be the source of the water, in the back half at least.
The degrading vinyl cover


The vinyl cover that is breaking down is not really a sealing cover against water. It is a cover over the screws to make it look nicer. And that said, having the cover on helps keep some wet off the screws that can rust, so on the vertical corners, it helps.

The leaks are normally the sealants behind the moldings that the screws are holding. And this is where ever that molding is. The corners, the gutter rails, windows, cargo holes, entry doors etc.

Your back wall pic has hints of water coming down from above. That corner molding or the roof rear seam or gutter rail may have leaked in.

Under the table might be from a bad window frame seal. Or something up higher.

If you go up on a step ladder from the side, look close at the roof to the siding joint and the back and front walls joint from the roof to the siding, take some pics there. Oh and heads up, you cannot walk directly on the roof. You need to put a tarp down and then pieces of 3/8 or thicker plywood to spread the load across several rafters. Like 2 ft x 4 ft small sheets. The metal roof will not hold you between the rafters. Also you do not know yet if there is a rotted rafter. Feel the rafter that is is a solid as the rest of them.

What you are looking for is cracked, gaped and missing sealants under the moldings. I have a boat load of pics on water entry but they are the new robber roofs. Yours has a metal roof and the transitions from the metal roof to the siding may be a little different. If you can post some pics of those areas we can see what you have.

Also, this is a great place to start your new thread on identifying and sealing out your water leaks.

Oh, and that full size Bronco is looking good! Haven't seen one of them in a while. That must be a mid 90's one?

Hope this helps

John
__________________

__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
JohnB is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Greetings from New Jersey Noob 2thepoint Introduce Yourself 5 05-08-2017 04:39 PM
Noob Cotton Introduce Yourself 6 05-13-2016 04:27 PM
manual 1988 satellite T-2263 maurjode Sunline Community 1 07-18-2010 03:58 PM
Newbie: 1989 Satellite - Model# 2263 with Optional Front 'B' roadlou Introduce Yourself 5 07-30-2008 07:18 AM
New Jersey & Delaware Suggestions PTHutch General Campground Discussions 18 07-22-2008 07:46 AM



Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Sunline RV or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:13 AM.