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Old 11-27-2018, 08:36 AM   #1
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New owner

Hi everybody,
We just bought my daughter a 2000 25ft. Sunline solaris
It is in excellent shape we thought till we lifted the bed up and seen a big hole in the water line and rv antifreeze laying in the bottom.
Is it hard to replace the lines in this rv
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Old 11-27-2018, 10:03 AM   #2
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Hi Bones!

Welcome to Sunline Owners Club! Congrats on getting your new sunny.

Bummer on your water line, but that is very fixable and you have come to the right place for any kind of help on a Sunline.

In this case, posting pictures can go a long way in helping us see what you are up against. If you can post some it will greatly help. Pic's can be uploaded directly to our site or you link them in from a online photo servers. See these 2 threads for help on pics.
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Since your camper is a year 2000 Sunline, I would think you should have the newer PEX tubing. The cold water lines are blue and the hot are red. The older campers had all gray lines.

If the pipe is cracked, a section can be cut out and a union installed. Sharkbite fittings are one way to do this. While they cost a little bit more, you do not need all the special tools crimp the ends. If you happen to have the PEX crimpers, then you can go that route and splice in a new piece of line.

But... if this crack is at one the "white" fittings, many of them are made by Flair-it. And those fittings do not need special tools and you just replace the fitting.

So, yes you can fix this, the question being what is actually cracked? Then we can help better and link where to get parts.

Next is, why did it crack? It may be the prior owner did not winterize the camper correctly and water in the piping froze and cracked it. If this is the case, there may be other issues to work through. And we can help with them too as need.

Also if you can tell us the model number that helps a little more so we can hone on the specific floor plan better. The model number will show up on the VIN tag on the outside front left of the camper. Assuming the tag is not totally sun faded. OR it will show up on the weight sticker inside the camper. This sticker is normally inside the door on a top kitchen or bathroom cabinet.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 11-27-2018, 10:20 AM   #3
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John,
Thanks for replying
The lines on the trailer are all clear I can see the antifreeze in the lines.where it is bad is by a brass tee.T-2553 is the model number.I will send pictures after I get off work.
There is no give in the lines and this looks like it was rubbed thru by a pc. of metal.
it is a cold water line that goes to the shower.
Thanks
Dave
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Old 11-27-2018, 11:11 AM   #4
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Pictures of leak

Pictures of leak
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File Type: jpg IMG_2600.jpg (121.6 KB, 70 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_2592.jpg (116.6 KB, 23 views)
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Old 11-27-2018, 05:40 PM   #5
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Hi John
Just checking to if you seen my pictures
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Old 11-27-2018, 07:06 PM   #6
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Hi Dave,

Your pics came through perfectly.

The white translucent lines, there may have been a period of time Sunline used them between the old gray Pex and the new blue and red Pex. I do not know the exact model years when gray stopped, white translucent started and then red/blue came.

Since the white tubing is under the floor, that points to high odds it was Sunline original. However the black tubing, that does not look original. I'm thinking someone had some issues and replaced cracked tubing from white to black.

You mentioned the issue was by the brass T where it goes under the floor is the problem area and a piece of metal may have rubbed through.

The pic is not close/clear enough for me to see the defect. I see what looks like sweating pink antifreeze on the tube that is going under the floor, but I cannot tell the exact spot you are referring too.

The brass T and the dark colored crimp rings are standard PEX fitting parts. The crimp rings are copper. If the T is cracked, it can be replaced. If the tube that goes under the floor is split, that too can be replaced but you most likely have to open up the floor to get to it to cut out the bad part.

Before I type a bunch not knowing where the real problem is, let confirm the problem.

There are 2 ways to get to the basement under the floor. Top down and bottom up. Before we go into that and how to fix the cut in, lets make sure we have to get in there.

Thanks

John
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Old 11-28-2018, 06:57 AM   #7
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Good morning John
I will send one more picture that shows the area a little better.I appreciate you responding as fast as you did.
Dave
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Old 11-28-2018, 07:04 AM   #8
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damaged area
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Old 11-28-2018, 11:06 AM   #9
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Mice?

Easy enough repair with conventional pex tools if you can get in there to work, but that looks like the problem. Room to work.

Can you snake a whole new piece and connect at the original junctions on each end where there is room to work?

As a second option cutting out the bad right there and using a shark bite splice fitting that can be pushed on to the remaining clean good end at/under the floor. i haven’t used them, but they are supposed to be good and I know they push on. Put a short new piece between the shark bite and attach to the elbow.

I really like pex, but there are times it is frustrating to work with due to the clearances needed.
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Old 11-28-2018, 03:53 PM   #10
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That's what my thought was. Gnawed or melted. Anyway, you can cut the floor back to access more of the hose. Disconnect at the t fitting. Reconnect a new piece using a pex clamp or hose clamp at the t, and a shark bite connecter to tie into the repair end of the hose. Attach some lath strips under the floor and reattach the piece of floor you cut out. Cover with the carpet and done.
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Old 11-28-2018, 05:00 PM   #11
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Thanks l will check it out
I am about 80 miles away from our trailer till next weekend
What diameter are the lines in our Sunline
Let you know how we make out
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Old 11-28-2018, 05:31 PM   #12
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I believe they are 1/2".
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Old 11-28-2018, 06:48 PM   #13
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This pic looks like a "chew" through. Vibration and the wood next to it would not create those marks.



Assuming it is a chew through, the black tubing replaced may have had a similar issue.

Now how to fix. You have the front kitchen, rear bath floor plan. The lines that go under the floor most likely and are heading to the bathroom to pick up the shower, sink, toilet and then head up to the outside shower and then to the front kitchen.

Unhooking the other end of the chewed pipe and getting it out and worse getting a new one back in may be a challenge. If they put one band clamp on the hose along the way, odds are high they did, that could be a bugger buried under the floor.

You have 2 options that come to mind. Go down from the top or up from the bottom.

Let's talk about going up from the bottom first as it may get ruled out real quick and your only option then is top down. I do not know where the gray tank is in the 05, T2553. The black tank should be under the toilet. I would think they would put the gray tank to the front of the black tank verses the rear side to make the drains easier. Crawl under and have a look.

Assuming the gray tank is forward of the black, then under the bed there should be no waste tank and that means bottom up is an option.

Going bottom up does have a drawback of patching the black waterproof membrane but we can help on how to do that. The good side of it is, it is easier to follow the pipe for as long as you need to, that is until you run into a tank which would be the black tank. But top down there is an issue too.

If that is a chew through, there "might" be other pipe under the floor also chewed through. Opening the bottom means you can address that too, again potentially easier then cutting more and more floor up. At this point, you really do not know what is under the floor.

If you happen to have one of those inspection camera's or access to one, rent, borrow etc, then it will fit down the hole in the floor and have a look. Looking my change the decision from top down or bottom up. Or all you can see is a bunch of pink insulation and it did not help.

There is also the possibility of air pressure check. Only need 10 to 30 psi. Tape off the chew marks, add air in the fresh water inlet using a garden hose to compressor fitting and charge the system and listen and or look for other leaks. The antifreeze may make this a little more complex as it will leak out wherever another hole is. You can drain it before hand and refill later. It does not cost that much. May have to do that anyway for the pipe repair.

If you do go from the bottom up, feel for the floor joists by pressing up on the membrane. On your year camper they should run left to right (the 8' direction). Use a straightedge and a sharp utility knife, cut a clean slit on the center of the joist. This allows an easier patch as you can press hard on the floor joist to set the patch adhesive. If you have to cut across to get a flap down, (cutting front to back of camper) try and only do one end to make the fewest cuts this direction as it is harder to patch.

Flex Mend belly repair tape is what you use to patch it. They make it in different widths. I use 4" and 6" for patching seams. Here is some on Amazon. The mobile home shops have this too https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&ke...l_5wmelvqnlz_b

If you go top down, heads up on the white and green striped water fill hose to the fresh tank. Getting that hose to seal to the tank fitting can be a bugger as the hose ID is not smooth. Sunline used food grade silicone to seal it up. The polyethylene tank does not like much of anything to stick to it. You may end up buying a better brand potable water smooth bore hose and not use the one Sunline provided. Cutting just under the bed makes the floor repair easier as you will not see the patch repair. If you have to go out into the walkway, that make this more complex to deal with patching. Again all depends if the damage is only at the Tee, or several other spots under the floor.

Hope this helps. For sure let us know what you find and how it came out.

John
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Old 11-28-2018, 06:49 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bones View Post
T
What diameter are the lines in our Sunline
The PEX is 1/2".
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