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Old 06-24-2009, 12:20 PM   #1
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new owner!

Bought the 1999 2354 . . . hope I got those numbers right! Poor thing has been a little mistreated over the years. Structurally it seems sound; at least I am hoping so . .
I am starting to clean it bit by bit since it has been a while since it has been used. I couldn't get the refigerator to stop after bringing it home, and almost burned up the water heater element! My old trailer when you turned things off, they didn't try to go to gas, they were off!
I love the interior. It is still in pretty good shape. The floorplan is really what I bought it for. No more crawling over the dog to get to the bathroom or the refrigerator! Any helpful hints for a new owner about caring for my new sunline? Any tips would be greatly appreciated! I really would like to take care of this one.
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Old 06-24-2009, 01:13 PM   #2
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Ronnyr,

Welcome to the group and congrats on your Sunline purchase. Some of the guys will surely be along to help you out with the techy stuff. Oh, we are a curious bunch of Sunline owners, so if/when you can take/post pictures, we would love to see them.

Also, if you would be kind enuff to submit your coach vin#, etc to Sunline Fan for his wonderful Sunline Data Base, I'm sure he'll appreciate it.

Kitty
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Old 06-25-2009, 07:31 AM   #3
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thank you for the welcome! Sorry, my new sunline is a T2453! I keep getting those number backwards! And its not a new sunline, its just new to me. I am lucky enough though to have the original owner's manual complete with brochure and all of the original paperwork! I am in the process of going through it piece by piece. I will pass that vin number along. On the front of the manual it has two numbers; one I am assuming is the manufacturing number everyone on here talks about. That one I believe is #5583.
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Old 06-25-2009, 11:20 AM   #4
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Wow, only three away from Steve Collins.

Your VIN should look like: 1LC2S2L2_YD245583

I suspect the missing digit is a 8, so the complete VIN should be 1LC2S2L28YD245583

Also, if you could, let me know what your interior color is. There are pictures in the brochure with each of them as well as some of the paperwork in the manual will say what the color is. Your choices are as follows, hopefully this will help you figure it out:

- Honey Wheat (brownish color)
- Garden Green (green floral)
- Chambray Blue Velour (blue floral velour)
- Country Denim (blue jean dinette seat covers)

Also, if you could verify, I believe your build date on the outside sticker should be October, 1998. Please let me know if this is otherwise.

Jon
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1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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Old 06-25-2009, 12:10 PM   #5
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Wow!That is absolutely correct except it is xd not yd.
Decor says wheat. The date on the quality control certification says 10-27-98. I had no idea about the manufacturing and numbers. amazing! thanks for the info! ronny
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Old 06-25-2009, 03:06 PM   #6
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Sorry, I knew it should have been XD, but I got so excited about actually being able to guess that mystery digit that I typed the wrong thing. I can only guess that digit if I have another coach in the same run (within like 10 coaches).

BTW, the Y digit would have meant it was a 2000 model year instead of a '99.

Jon
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2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9467.8 (as of 5/26/19)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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Old 06-25-2009, 07:42 PM   #7
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Welcome to the site ronny r. Jon will never cease to amaze you here on the forum. He still amazes most of us. Congrats on your new Sunline. I'm sure you will enjoy it as much as we all enjoy ours. Take Care...................Marshall
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Old 06-26-2009, 08:26 PM   #8
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Hey Ronny,

Could you verify your RVIA seal number? It's on a plate near the front entry door of your coach.

Here's what I think the number should be. If this isn't it, it should be pretty close: 6464762

Thanks,
Jon
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2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9467.8 (as of 5/26/19)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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Old 06-26-2009, 08:34 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronnyr
Wow!That is absolutely correct except it is xd not yd.
Decor says wheat. The date on the quality control certification says 10-27-98. I had no idea about the manufacturing and numbers. amazing! thanks for the info! ronny
Sign-off date is one day ahead of mine....
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2011 to present: '11 Cougar 326MKS
1999 to 2011: '99 Sunline T-2453
SUN264 * Amateur Radio kd2iat monitoring 146.52
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Old 06-27-2009, 10:26 AM   #10
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I will check that tag number as soon as I am able to get out there. It's been raining a lot here the last few days and I have been unable to get outside much. also my cable internet has been down for the past two days so I have been unable to post anything. As soon as I can post that number, I will get that to you. Ronny
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Old 06-29-2009, 08:56 AM   #11
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I got a little time to go out and check on things between rain showers.
You were absolutely right about the RVIA seal number! 6464762. That is amazing!

I have another question - I was looking at the roof and saw the sealant has cracks. I can't find any leaks on the inside, but I am concerned. I dont' think anyone has touched the roof in a few years. Not knowing too much about them, I don't know if that is good or bad. Should I replace the sealant, or add to it as fill in the cracks? My old trailer had an aluminum roof, so this rubber stuff is all new to me. I checked the owner's manual for instructions, and doesn't really specify about the sealant except to use a Dicor 501 lap sealant. when I called the RV parts store, they said take the old off and replace it.
One more question - Someone painted one side of the coach. Yes, they painted white over the white. I think they were trying to hide the dull aluminum and black streaks. Is it possible to strip the paint and restore the original finish? Any thoughts? thanks.
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Old 06-29-2009, 09:31 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronnyr
I have another question - I was looking at the roof and saw the sealant has cracks. I can't find any leaks on the inside, but I am concerned. I dont' think anyone has touched the roof in a few years. Not knowing too much about them, I don't know if that is good or bad. Should I replace the sealant, or add to it as fill in the cracks? My old trailer had an aluminum roof, so this rubber stuff is all new to me. I checked the owner's manual for instructions, and doesn't really specify about the sealant except to use a Dicor 501 lap sealant. when I called the RV parts store, they said take the old off and replace it.
When I find a crack in the original caulking on the roof, I shave it down a bit, but don't remove original sealant material from the joint itself. Just shave it enough to flatten it out a bit and then scrub the entire area clean. Let it dry real well, and then apply a new layer of the Dicor Lap Sealant. I make sure the new stuff completely covers the old joint and out a little further on each side to the roof rubber and onto whatever item the joint connects. I make sure the overlap is at least 1/4" except on the seam between the roof and the gutter rails on each side. There you really can't overlap down on to the gutter material, but make sure the seam is completely filled and smooth.

It helps to dry out any moisture remaining in the cracks of the old sealant with a hair dryer. Moisture will block the adhesion of the new sealant.

Be sure to use the self-leveling version of the Dicor sealant. It will settle into cracks and joints very nicely, and the final appearance is much smoother.

The stuff skins up within a day, but remains soft and pliable for years. Let it skin up for at least a week and then apply 303 UV Protectant to the new material.

Dicor also makes a rubber roof coating system which is more like a paint. If all of your joints have surface cracking, but no leakage, it might be more efficient to use this product and cover all of the older joints.

As for the paint on the aluminum, you might try a small test area to see if paint remover will just remove the paint and not the original finish. if it will, then the original Krystal Kote can usually be freshened up. If the stripper removes the aluminum finish along with the paint, then it may be a better move to leave the paint. If they sanded before painting, I don't think it will be recoverable.
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SUN264 * Amateur Radio kd2iat monitoring 146.52
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Old 06-30-2009, 10:25 AM   #13
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The cracks were pretty big, not just hairline ones. I am afraid it could be leaking although I cannot find any wet spots. I am wondering the cracks could be why the floor is soft in places, or if that was caused by the missing underside? The entire floor seems a little warped, but the worst is in the bathroom in front of the shower, where I am still trying to determine what had leaked or what may still be leaking. The toilet bowl does not seem to hold water when the city water is hooked up, but I can't find any obvious dampness. The shower has been reinforced, making me suspicious of what else was done under there. I have read some of the older posts on here and have learned of some of the shower issues. Hopefully I can get them checked.
Anyway, I have quite a project! I am planning a trip in about a month, and may not be able to get all of the repairs done in time.
Ronny
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