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Old 04-25-2017, 10:03 AM   #1
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I just purchased a 2000 Sunline Advancer Lite L- 19. It looks decent but the roof and floors are rotten. I only paid $500 for it and am planning a complete rebuild. He interior is in good condition and the bathroom is perfect. Everything works and I figure that the A/C unit and the refrigerator are worth what I paid I've never done an RV rehab before but have been in construction for 30 years. I joined the club to get ideas and share my experience with others.

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Old 04-25-2017, 01:26 PM   #2
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Welcome! Sounds like a pretty good deal!

One challenge you'll find is the Advancer trailers were of a taper body design. I don't know exact specs, but the front of the trailer should be narrower than the rear, to make it more aerodynamic. So that will make reconstructing a little more difficult because nothing front to back will be completely square.

I've never seen one torn down, but I'm told they should have aluminum framing too. I'll be interested to hear what you find, what's wood and what isn't.

The outside fiberglass may be a bit challenging to remove, if needed. It was glued on to the studs. It looks like there's some delamination going on, so it might not be too hard to redo.
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2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9467.8 (as of 5/26/19)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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Old 04-25-2017, 04:10 PM   #3
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Welcome rjm0521. Congrates on your 2000 Sunline Advancer. We bought 1 in 2013 and it turned out to be quite a project. We really enjoyed that camper but it would take a weeks worth of typing to explain what was wrong with it.Sunline Fan is correct about the Aluminum Framing on this model.John B helped get me thur replacing the in the camper. If you look on page 2 of modifications I posted pictures of what I was doing. With your 30 years in construction you should end up with a really nice camper. If I was more talented I would have liked to rebuild ours but I am no good at carpentry..Alot good people on this forum will get you thur your project.... Good Luck and post lots of pictures.
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Old 04-25-2017, 07:11 PM   #4
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Welcome to the club!

Good luck with your project and don't be shy with the pictures. We love pictures.
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Old 04-25-2017, 08:43 PM   #5
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Welcome rjm0521,

Congrats on your new camper and project.

These campers are all rebuildable, yours due to the construction may be a little different but not enough that you cannot fix it especially with your background.

We see you already know how to post a pic which is great! Pics really help when it comes to explain something to us or asking about something, we can see what you are up against.

I'm really curious on what Sunline did with the construction of this model.

When you get to the project, feel free to create a post in the Repair and Maintenance Section and have at it. We are here to help.

Thanks

John
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Old 04-25-2017, 09:50 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunline Fan View Post
Welcome! Sounds like a pretty good deal!

One challenge you'll find is the Advancer trailers were of a taper body design. I don't know exact specs, but the front of the trailer should be narrower than the rear, to make it more aerodynamic. So that will make reconstructing a little more difficult because nothing front to back will be completely square.

I've never seen one torn down, but I'm told they should have aluminum framing too. I'll be interested to hear what you find, what's wood and what isn't.

The outside fiberglass may be a bit challenging to remove, if needed. It was glued on to the studs. It looks like there's some delamination going on, so it might not be too hard to redo.
Thanks for the advice. According to a brochure I downloaded from this forum the model I have is the only model that doesn't have the tapered design. I measured it to be sure and the front and back are the same dimension. The delamination is probably my biggest concern right now. Of course I'm too ignorant to really know what I should be concerned with.

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Old 04-25-2017, 09:50 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve59 View Post
Welcome rjm0521. Congrates on your 2000 Sunline Advancer. We bought 1 in 2013 and it turned out to be quite a project. We really enjoyed that camper but it would take a weeks worth of typing to explain what was wrong with it.Sunline Fan is correct about the Aluminum Framing on this model.John B helped get me thur replacing the in the camper. If you look on page 2 of modifications I posted pictures of what I was doing. With your 30 years in construction you should end up with a really nice camper. If I was more talented I would have liked to rebuild ours but I am no good at carpentry..Alot good people on this forum will get you thur your project.... Good Luck and post lots of pictures.
Thanks. I will post lot of pics.

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Old 04-25-2017, 10:05 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB View Post
Welcome rjm0521,

Congrats on your new camper and project.

These campers are all rebuildable, yours due to the construction may be a little different but not enough that you cannot fix it especially with your background.

We see you already know how to post a pic which is great! Pics really help when it comes to explain something to us or asking about something, we can see what you are up against.

I'm really curious on what Sunline did with the construction of this model.

When you get to the project, feel free to create a post in the Repair and Maintenance Section and have at it. We are here to help.

Thanks

John
Thanks. I'm thinking that the roof would be the best place to begin. It will be a few weeks before I get started. I'll take lots of pics and post them and be thankful for any input or suggestions. I saw your post redoing the roof on one and it has given me inspiration to get started. The Dicor membrane system seems like a good option once I get the rebuild of the wood completed.

I'm cautiously optimistic about the project!

R.J.


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Old 04-26-2017, 10:09 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by rjm0521 View Post
Thanks for the advice. According to a brochure I downloaded from this forum the model I have is the only model that doesn't have the tapered design. I measured it to be sure and the front and back are the same dimension. The delamination is probably my biggest concern right now. Of course I'm too ignorant to really know what I should be concerned with.

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Interesting, I didn't realize there was one non-tapered one! But that explains the lack of Taper Body decal. Does your VIN start with 1LC2S or 1LC2A? That should confirm the construction type.

I think the delamination is a valid concern, but I would definitely check the roof out as it sounds like you plan to do. If it has been leaking, there may be mold inside on insulation and/or the interior panel that should be removed. I'm not sure at what step it would be best to repair the delamination, but you may need to tackle other things first before sealing that up for good.
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2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9467.8 (as of 5/26/19)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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Old 04-26-2017, 11:12 AM   #10
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The VIN begins 1CL2A. So does that mean that the "A" stands for aluminum? I greatly appreciate the info. I've already gained a tremendous amount of knowledge from just a couple of days on this forum.

I mentioned that I'm concerned about the delamination because there doesn't seem to be a straightforward way to repair it. Replacing rotten wood and installing a new roof are huge jobs but at least I have a grasp on the scope of the project. I can essentially replicate the manufacturing process with those aspects of the rehab. The delamination repair seems like it will be an exploratory process utilizing various techniques to accomplish. I've watched videos of a guy who injects epoxy into the delaminated wall section and clamps it in place while the epoxy cures. Looks like it's fairly effective. I've had extensive experience with epoxies over the years, just never in this application. When I get to the walls that will probably be my first plan of attack unless folks on the forum have better suggestions.

After getting connected to this forum and hearing from others I'm even more anxious to get started!
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Old 04-26-2017, 11:25 AM   #11
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The VIN begins 1CL2A. So does that mean that the "A" stands for aluminum? I greatly appreciate the info. I've already gained a tremendous amount of knowledge from just a couple of days on this forum.
I believe it does. Every other Sunline ever built after 1980 used "S". For what exactly, I'm not sure- stud, stick, etc. The traditional trailers are often referred to as "Stick built", which you may know from the building industry, or "Stick and tin", meaning wood stud with aluminum siding, as compared to the fiberglass bonded or fiberglass vacuum bonded sidewalls that bigger manufacturers are capable of.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rjm0521 View Post
I mentioned that I'm concerned about the delamination because there doesn't seem to be a straightforward way to repair it. Replacing rotten wood and installing a new roof are huge jobs but at least I have a grasp on the scope of the project. I can essentially replicate the manufacturing process with those aspects of the rehab. The delamination repair seems like it will be an exploratory process utilizing various techniques to accomplish. I've watched videos of a guy who injects epoxy into the delaminated wall section and clamps it in place while the epoxy cures. Looks like it's fairly effective. I've had extensive experience with epoxies over the years, just never in this application. When I get to the walls that will probably be my first plan of attack unless folks on the forum have better suggestions.

After getting connected to this forum and hearing from others I'm even more anxious to get started!
That's a valid concern. I guess my first thought would be to use boards to push against each stud, to try to set the new adhesive, and maybe clamped against matching boards on the other side. To do one side at a time, which would seem like a better option, you could probably hook onto the frame rail to clamp against on the bottom, but the top would be tough unless you had the whole roof stripped and could attach to rafters. With all the various things attached to the sides, unless you remove everything completely, I imagine you'd need to cut some small strips, shims if you will, to push against the actual fiberglass, behind the 2x4s.

Do you have somewhere inside to work on this?
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2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9467.8 (as of 5/26/19)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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Old 04-26-2017, 11:42 AM   #12
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Maybe S is for Steel and A is for Aluminum or A is for "Awesome!" Now I'm really intrigued and want to do some exploratory surgery to find out. That's exactly what I was thinking with the clamps. I have enough straps, clamps, jacks, turnbuckles, etc. that I should be able to create quite a superstructure! I'll be sure to post pics.

Unfortunately, I don't have a large enough garage for this. I have a friend who will probably let me use his barn but all of my tools/equipment are in my shop. Maybe I can get the roof and the walls done at his place then bring it back home to finish the inside.
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