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Old 08-03-2016, 03:43 PM   #1
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Hi-
I am impressed with the club and the great amount of information available
to help new owners.
I recently purchased a 1990 Sunline trailer, model 2362. It is turning into somewhat of a reclamation project. Two main problems now. One is I cant grt the refrigerator to work, despite trying both propane and electric. The propane seems to heat the back part of the unit OK, but no cooling noted.Any suggestions or comments?
The other issue is some damage to the outlet of the black water tank, and the
valves and junction of the gray and black water tanks is gone, I assume due to
damage to the area while moving the trailer.
I guess I will need to get a used or fabricated black water tank, along with valve/junction parts.
Any suggestions as to
the best solution would be greatly appreciated.
Henry Simonds
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Old 08-04-2016, 09:01 AM   #2
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Hi Henry,

My black and grey tank is in a similar condition as your's and I am reaching the point in my restoration where I am about to tackle the plumbing. So I am interested in what you end up doing here also. My black tank is shot and will be replaced with something custom, and I am also missing the joint between the black and grey, and the junction between the two appears to be damaged. (Like you said, they probably ran over something.)

Our gas-electric fridge was removed before we bought the camper. But, we decided to just get a mini-fridge and use it on shorepower. Depending on how you use your camper, you might consider just getting a 110v fridge and using that when you have hook-ups available.
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Old 08-04-2016, 09:40 AM   #3
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These refrigerators work different than household refrigerators. It takes hours to cool down. They work on heat absorption rather than cool produceing with freon.

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Old 08-04-2016, 11:02 AM   #4
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Further to the fridge, it can take 8 to 12 hours (or more) for the fridge to cool down to temps cold enough for food. I usually turn mine on a full 24 hours before I want to start loading it.

Another important point, because the heat exchange is a slower process in RV fridges, keeping the door open for any length of time pulls all the cold air out and it takes much more time to cool that air back down compared to our residential fridges.

If the stack on the backside of the fridge gets very warm to the touch and stays that way, that portion of the unit is working properly.

An easy and important maintenance tip. Get up to the vent on the roof directly above the fridge. It's probably 8" wide and maybe up to 20" in length. Remove the screws and pull the cover. Make sure there's nothing blocking the convection flow of heat from the lower vent, through the coils and up and out of the vent. The screw heads may be gooped over with caulk which you'll have to dig out first.

The screws will almost certainly require a #2 square bit. They're readily available at most any hardware store these days thanks to the deck screw industry.
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Old 08-08-2016, 11:33 AM   #5
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response to questions aboute 2362 trailer.

Thanks very much for the responce to my questions on the refridgeration andplumbing on my 1990 2362 trailer. Will let you know if I can make any progress on these issues
Henry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Collins View Post
Further to the fridge, it can take 8 to 12 hours (or more) for the fridge to cool down to temps cold enough for food. I usually turn mine on a full 24 hours before I want to start loading it.

Another important point, because the heat exchange is a slower process in RV fridges, keeping the door open for any length of time pulls all the cold air out and it takes much more time to cool that air back down compared to our residential fridges.

If the stack on the backside of the fridge gets very warm to the touch and stays that way, that portion of the unit is working properly.

An easy and important maintenance tip. Get up to the vent on the roof directly above the fridge. It's probably 8" wide and maybe up to 20" in length. Remove the screws and pull the cover. Make sure there's nothing blocking the convection flow of heat from the lower vent, through the coils and up and out of the vent. The screw heads may be gooped over with caulk which you'll have to dig out first.

The screws will almost certainly require a #2 square bit. They're readily available at most any hardware store these days thanks to the deck screw industry.
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Old 08-09-2016, 05:42 AM   #6
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I wrote to Norcold about my refrigerator since we camp on the average about every two weeks. The question was, can I keep it turned on or will that hurt it and they said that it won't put any wear on it to keep it on rather than turn it off when we get home and back on 24 hours before we take off again. For a few years now we turn it on in May, keep it stocked and turn it off in October. Of course it cycles between propane while camping and electric while at home.
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