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11-10-2014, 01:37 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Maine
Posts: 3
SUN #6867
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Hi
Well, it has taken me three weeks to finally start to figure out how to access this page, I hope it works.
I am a Christian pastor that operates a site for, primarily men, who are uncomfortable in a brick and mortar church. ChristianPatriot.com Index page
I am 70, kind of retired, and lost when it comes to our new, to us, 1987 21 foot Sunline Satellite. My biggest problem to date is trying to drain the water, I cannot find the drains. I found the hot water drain, but the holding tank drain has proven to be more than a challenge.
Can anyone help?
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11-10-2014, 05:59 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 1,515
SUN #768
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Hi PastorBob, Welcome to the forum.
When you say "holding tank drain", do you mean the drain for grey water tank (wastewater) and the black tank (toilet water) ?? ... or the freshwater tank??
The "grey" tank and the "black" tank both have a common outlet, about 3 inches in diameter, and are located on the "drivers" side of the trailer. Each tank has a seperate T shaped handle to open a valve from the tank to the common drain.
I am not familiar with your model, the freshwater (drinking water) drains vary from model to model.
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Gene & DW Ginny
2002 Sunline T-2363
2008 Toyota 4-runner 4wd 4.7L V-8
Reese Dual Cam straightline - P3 Brake controller
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11-11-2014, 08:56 AM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Maine
Posts: 3
SUN #6867
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Draining and winterizing
Thanks Gene,
but the water I am referring to is the drinking water. It is the drain valve(s) for the fresh water holding tank and any other fresh water drains that I cannot find.
I have looked under the trailer and in every opening I can find.
We pulled the trailer from Maine to NM and love it, but now that it is time to prepare it for winter, I am lost.
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11-11-2014, 09:12 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 759
SUN #5039
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PastorBob,
Welcome to the forum.
My 1983 T-1550 fresh water tank drain is directly under the tank bottom and under the the trailer. Mine is near the doorway.
Find your fresh water tank and then look under the trailer in that area. You may find (like mine) you have a simple 3/4" +/- dia pipe with and end cap. unscrew cap and drain.
Hope this helps.
__________________
TT:1983 Sunline T-1550
TT:1996 Sunline T-2053
TV:2005 Toyota Tundra Double Cab 2UZ-FE i-Force 4.7 L DOHC (MFI) V8 4WD SR5 Automatic
P3 break control
"I know a lot about nothing and nothing about a lot"
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11-11-2014, 10:29 AM
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#5
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Maine
Posts: 3
SUN #6867
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Draining and winterizing
Thanks bunjin,
I found the one for the fresh water tank, it was a spigot jsut outside the tank that I had not turned far enough, but the drain for the water lines is still escaping me, I ahve been under the triler from one end ot the other, I ahve found two small flexible pipes directly under the trailer under the kitchen faucets, but no valves or faucets to turn to drain.
Under the kitchen sink, below the traps is about 14 inches, but it contains the fuse boxes, converter, and main circuits and heater ducts.
Since I have to replace the water pump, I really want to drain everything.
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11-11-2014, 03:51 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Maine
Posts: 3,357
SUN #2097
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Check inside the bath cabinets. Don't forget to drain the water heater. You back in Maine?
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11-12-2014, 09:06 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 759
SUN #5039
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My 1983 T-1550 has no "low point" drains. Just the fresh water tank, the HWT and the grey and black water discharge valves (T-handle).
I also have no heater bypass in this trailer.
I added a ball valve in place of my nylon plug (3/4") on the heater. I go 3/4" x 3" PVC nipple to a 3/4" female MPT x 3/4" male garden hose ball valve. The ball valve is a nice brass unit from Lowes. This allows me to just turn the valve to drain heater.
To winterize, I open hot water heater drain valve. Open relief valve on heater. drain fresh water tank. Open all faucets, hot and cold. Open my grey and waste tank valves (NOTE: these waste tanks are clean and have nothing in them). Run water pump (which I can watch as doing) for a few seconds to pump some water out of system. I also will run the toilet flush valve. Be carefully not to run pump to long. After gurgling bubbles at pump, shut down.
Hook up air compressor to city water in and blow at up to 40 lb psi. I will throttle this so as not to have 40 psi going full bore. I use a small pancake compressor, thus not getting the same results as JohnB and others. I will do this on and off as the pressure drops rapidly for several minutes.
Close "all" faucets, relief valve and drain plug (HWT) and grey and waste tank gate valves.
I put a gallon of "pink" potable RV/TT antifreeze in fresh water tank (remember to close drain valve first....saves on antifreeze). with all faucets closed run pump to put about 1/2 to 3/4 of antifreeze into system. This pressurizes the system....including the HWT. turn on faucets and discharging water and antifreeze. Run pump and remember the toilet flush valve. Put some of the leftover antifreeze into the drain traps.
Open HTW plug or newly installed ball valve and capture the diluted antifreeze into the now empty antifreeze bottle.
Evaluate the clor of the diluted antifreeze. If light in color do another half gallon or so into the system as above.
Keep the first diluted and and the second run separate an use as a temperature gauge. I let them sit just under the trailers and as the temperatures drop I evaluate how well things are doing as to the degree of protection I have in the system.
IMHO one never, but never has to have 6 gallons of antifreeze in the HWT in the event of not having a bypass valve system. The system builds up pressure from fluid in the lines and with the relief valve closed and the plug installed the HWT is just a fat line initially thus one can winterize on much less than 6 gallons. I use about 1 1/2 gallon on the 1983 T-1550. About the same as on the 1996 T-2053 with the bypass valve system.
The fresh water tank, esp. on the T-2053 is my biggest problem. The tank has a large surface area (tank bottom) with the intel to the pump up a little distance thus not getting all the fluid before starting to suck air. If one siphons out of a antifreeze container one will use less antifreeze than I do.
I hope this helps some others, esp. the "6 gallon" fear factor of NOT having a bypass installed.
Oh, I used the diluted antifreeze this year as a pre-full strength run. This saves a little of the good stuff also.
Any comments welcome. My T-1550 has been thru 30+ years of winters, but only one (1) with me.
__________________
TT:1983 Sunline T-1550
TT:1996 Sunline T-2053
TV:2005 Toyota Tundra Double Cab 2UZ-FE i-Force 4.7 L DOHC (MFI) V8 4WD SR5 Automatic
P3 break control
"I know a lot about nothing and nothing about a lot"
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11-13-2014, 07:20 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 779
SUN #4050
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PastorBob,
Welcome to the SOC! Enjoy your Sunline, even tho' it's time to winterize!
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Matthew and Lisa
TT: '02 T-2363;
TV: 2012 Ford F-150, 4x4/Off-road, 5.0L V8, "Big Gray"
Reese Straitline w/ dual cam
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