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Old 05-21-2014, 08:46 AM   #1
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Hello... :^)

Greg & Patty here in SC PA

Just bought a 1994 '2670' for the two of us.

It's the newest and biggest camper we've owned, since now wanting A/C and an actual bed to sleep on instead of a couch or table.
We've always camped and cooked outside the trailer without using any water inside any of the campers, but we know everything works inside this one and are trying to figure out the valves under the bathroom sink ? They seem to work different then 'standard' ball valve thinking...?

Thanks for any help... this site seems to have a lot of great info already for us.
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Old 05-21-2014, 10:14 AM   #2
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They most likely are low point drains. Look in that area under the trailer and you should see two open pipes coming through the fabric. These are used to draining your water lines for winterizing, they are also good for putting lots of antifreeze on the ground. Don't ask how many times many of us forgot to close them after draining the lines and before pumping the "pink" stuff in!!!!!!

Welcome to the SOC!!

What you'll want to do is operate those valves with pressure on the system, while someone watches underneath for the water to come out. Then mark the position of the valves with a sharpie (ie open/closed)

Mack
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Old 05-21-2014, 10:56 AM   #3
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Thanks for the welcome Mack

We'll check the valves out under the sink so we don't lose water when we fill the tank
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Old 05-21-2014, 01:15 PM   #4
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We'll check the valves out under the sink so we don't lose water when we fill the tank
There will also be a drain valve for the fresh water tank. Make sure that is closed before you fill. IF the low point drains are open, they won't flow water until there is pressure in the system, either the pump comes on or you hook up to city water.

Basically, you have two ways to get fresh water in the trailer. Fill the tank and run the pump, or hook up directly to a water system. There will be two seperate places....you will have a fill for the tank and a garden hose connection on the side of the trailer for city water. There is a check valve in the pump that won't let water backflow from the trailer through the pump into the tank.

Make sure you use white "food" grade hose for your water needs. Regular green garden hose water tastes like.........

One other thing if you have an electric hot water heater. DO NOT turn the heater element on without water in the heater tank. The element will burn up very quickly if there is no water around it.

So, there you have it......Basic RV Water Systems 101
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Old 05-22-2014, 07:37 PM   #5
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Welcome to the forum Greg & Patty


Quote:
Originally Posted by MACK C-85 View Post
... they are also good for putting lots of antifreeze on the ground. Don't ask how many times many of us forgot to close them after draining the lines and before pumping the "pink" stuff in!!!!!! ....
Ain't that the truth, one of my first "learning experiences"
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Old 05-24-2014, 06:34 AM   #6
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Some of the drain valves do not turn. Well they do turn but that is all it does is go around in a circle if it has a "T" handle they pull up to open and push down to close.
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Old 05-24-2014, 06:36 AM   #7
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Quote:
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Welcome to the forum Greg & Patty


Ain't that the truth, one of my first "learning experiences"
Another one is by pass water heater valve still open and drain plug out of the heater!
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Old 05-26-2014, 09:27 AM   #8
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Hi everyone we have just purchased a 1998 sunline solaris 2475.. This is my first camper.. We are super excited. We love the layout... I hope to take her out this coming weekend for the first time...
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Old 05-27-2014, 04:34 PM   #9
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Welcome,

......both gpr98 and Mainer1.
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Old 05-27-2014, 09:43 PM   #10
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Welcome to the SOC to both of you! Happy camping!
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Old 05-28-2014, 08:44 AM   #11
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Thanks everyone for the helpful posts...

Memorial Day Weekend went better then we expected in the camper.
It was nice having water and being able to use the sink and shower.

Made sure that water was making it into the HWH before installing the drain.
But couldn't find any by-pass valves either at the back of the heater under
the lower bunk...? Only see two valves laying flat on the floor at the sink ?

Water pump made good pressure and didn't seem to run too much.

We only have one Tri-Mark Key - Is there a place online to order an extra cut key ?

Thanks for all the help

Greg & Patty

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Old 05-28-2014, 09:48 AM   #12
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But couldn't find any by-pass valves either at the back of the heater under the lower bunk...?
If you have a bypass kit (they were an option), there will be a pipe installed between the cold water input and the hot water outflow. There could be one, two, or three valves depending on how it was installed.

Here's a picture of a three valve installation:

(Hot water pipe on top, cold on the bottom)



Quote:
Only see two valves laying flat on the floor at the sink ?
These are most likely the low point drains.
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Old 05-28-2014, 10:01 AM   #13
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Thanks Mack

Should we install a by-pass kit or is there a 'trick' to help with winterizing ?
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Old 05-28-2014, 11:54 AM   #14
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Should we install a by-pass kit or is there a 'trick' to help with winterizing ?
I would definitely install a bypass kit. You'll save 6 gallons of antifreeze each time you winterize, so the payback is pretty immediate!!!

The newer bypass kits use a check valve at the "hot" outflow (prevents the bypassed water from back flowing into the tank, and a tee-valve in the "cold" line, the tee valve is spliced into the cold line and the open side is piped to a tee in the hot line. Remember there is a check valve between the outlet and the tee that keeps the water from going into the tank through the outlet. When the tee valve is inline with the cold water pipe the water goes into the tank, when the valve is inline with the bypass pipe the water goes through the bypass pipe and you can drain the hot water heater.

Search "winterizing" you will find there is all kinds of advice, proceedures, and tricks!!
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