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Old 12-17-2012, 05:05 AM   #1
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Hi,I'm John and I am on a mission.
I bought a Sunline T2262 December 11th of this year.The trailer is not in perfect condition and needs some work.I am a handyman and I will be doing as much of the work as I can.
Here's the rub.
I need to have this camper ready for January 12th to drive my wife and myself to Lackland AFB in San Antonio to watch my son graduate from basic training.
I will post as many photos of what I do as I can.
I ask that everyone looks over the photos and if you see something that I overlook that may make the camper unsafe,please tell me.I will be using what I have onhand to make repairs now due to time constraints with the intention of doing better after we return.
I Know how I am and you will not insult me or hurt my feelings so go ahead and tell me what you think of my methods.What I learn will help others.
Thank you
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Old 12-17-2012, 06:03 AM   #2
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Hi John, welcome to the forum!

You may want to tell us what is wrong and how you plan on fixing it before you do and have to re-do! Justa thought!

Oh and thank your son for us, we appreciate the service he is doing for our country! And thank you Mom and Dad for raising such a fine young man!
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Old 12-17-2012, 07:13 AM   #3
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No,thank you for the appreciation,it means alot.
OK,The camper had a door that was no longer on the camper.I am in the process of repairs.The refridge door does not close,not sure if it just needs a new magnetic seal or if the door is sprung from driving with no door on camper.I am checking wheel bearings for wear.Have one out,looks ok but will probably get the numbers,go to NAPA and buy new.Taking the 5 tires to my mechanic to inspect for a 4000 mile round trip.found clear water in the toilet so I put antifreeze in all drains,hoping there is no water in the rest of system because it is below freezing and can't blow out lines.I want to check propane lines and replace if needed.want to check electric to see what still works.Left rear drivers side of camper has no inside panel or insulation on back and side area panel moves as if nothing behind it.exposed wood framing is black ib spots,a little is missing but I don't think it is really bad.Won't know untill I get the panel off.
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Old 12-17-2012, 04:54 PM   #4
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Welcome, John! We're newbies so we probably won't be of much help other than to say, if the tires on your camper are closing in on 5 years old, buy new ones regardless of what the tread looks like. That's pretty much standard advice when dealing with a used TT and it's good advice, especially if you are going to be taking a long trip. Other than that, others here on this forum will be able to help you out and are just some of the nicest people on the web.

We look forward to following what repairs you make to your T2262. And we "second" Poppy & Nana's sentiments: please thank your son for serving our country and must feel great to raise such a fine young man.
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Old 12-17-2012, 06:48 PM   #5
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Hi John,

Repacking the wheel bearings and checking the brakes is a very prudent move. While you checking look over the wire itself. It can become very brittle on the insulation and then crack the insulation. Then soon shorts can come.

The worst can be the cross over wiring in the axle tube. This is a standard trailer way to do this but is ranks up there with text book shorts in the brake wiring on old campers. The insulation gets brittle, cracks and then bouncing down the road it chaffs off the insulation and you have a short and no brakes. Look at it good and it if looks questionably it more than likely is or will be soon. You can strap new wire in plastic tubes or buy a tandem trailer wire jacketed cable as a conduit to strap to the axle tube on the outside. See here on my upgrade. I was installing new axles and did not even use the new wire in the axle tube. The old axles the wire was already brittle on my camper.

Independent Brake Wire Feed Upgrade

As Wannabes said, tires. Check the DOT date codes for what date they where made. In case you do not know how to sort out the date code, see here Tire Tech Information - Determining the Age of a Tire

If there is no date code, they they are really old.

I agree with the 5 year old tire recommendation on trailer tires. Especailly on a camper that has been sitting a long time. Doing a 4,000 mile trip is more than many campers tow in a year. They may look OK but after they heat up, odds are not in your favor. Having a tire failure on the road is no fun.

Also what type and size of tires are they? The Prior owner may have changed what was orignally on the camper. They may be the wrong type for a trailer and or the wrong load range for the weight of the camper. The type should be ST, not P like in a car tire. The size, look at the max load rating. All 4 tires should add up to the entire GVWR of the camper. Sunline sized them this way, unless the older campers were an exception.

We never talked about what type of WD hitch and or anti sway control you have or what TV.

These are good things to sort out before you head out. If you need help on any of this, let us know. We are glad to help. All you need to do is ask.

Good luck and safe travels.

John

PS I third the thanks to your son and Mom and Dad.
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Old 12-17-2012, 06:49 PM   #6
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Hi,Thanks for the welcome.I was planning on having the mechanic check on the tires for me,I've been told that the numbers on the tires will have the date of manufacture and they should be able to get that easier then I could.The spare looks to be pretty old so I was sure I would replace that one
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Old 12-17-2012, 06:55 PM   #7
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The WD hitch is something I am still trying to figure out what I need.I know too heavy and the trailer will act like a beaver tail on the road-no good-and too light will not have any benefit either.
So I own a camper that should weigh 3600 pounds empty.My truck could pull 7000 pounds.I am sure I could add 2000 pounds of stuff for my trip.so I am at 6000 pounds.
Is a 10,000 pound WD hitch too stiff?
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Old 12-17-2012, 06:59 PM   #8
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Another question on WD.I do not think I want to take off the rods every time I have to back up.Is there really only one brand that will allow me to back up without disassembly ?
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Old 12-17-2012, 07:59 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HandiJohn1 View Post
The WD hitch is something I am still trying to figure out what I need.I know too heavy and the trailer will act like a beaver tail on the road-no good-and too light will not have any benefit either.
So I own a camper that should weigh 3600 pounds empty.My truck could pull 7000 pounds.I am sure I could add 2000 pounds of stuff for my trip.so I am at 6000 pounds.
Is a 10,000 pound WD hitch too stiff?
Hi John,

There are 2 ratings on a WD hitch. They limit the amount of pull which is the 10,000#. However the second rating line up with the loaded tongue weight of the camper. In many cases, not all, the WD bars are rated around 10% of the pull ratings. So a 10,000# pull rating "may" have a 1,000# max loaded tongue weight rating. But then again it depends on the WD bar itself what the tongue weight rating is.

On Travel Trailers most times we do not run out of pull rating but often can on tongue weight rating.

See these WD bars.

This one is a 800# tongue weight with 10,000# pull rating.



This one is a 1,200# tongue weight with 12,000# pull rating.


The size of the WD hitch and WD bars you need is one that is heavy enough for the weight of your loaded trailer tongue and large enough to pull the loaded camper. The best way to do tongue weight is by loading the camper with camping "stuff" and then weigh the tongue. You can do this at a commercial truck scale, garden center etc. Or you can use the bath scale method where they use leverage to not overload the scale. If you want to try the bath scale method, see here. Scroll down a little bit to see the method. It is not totally accurate but good enough for this on small campers.

Determining Trailer Tongue Weight | etrailer.com

So once you know the loaded tongue weight then you get a WD hitch with WD bars strong enough for the weight. You can be a little over, just not grossly over. And you really do not want to be under by a lot as the spring bar is not heavy enough then.

I lost track, what year is your camper? We can look it up and estimate what league of tongue weight you are in.

Also need to look at the receiver on your truck. There is a sticker there most times or in the owners manual that lists the rating of the receiver. Here is the tag off my truck before I upgraded the receiver for more tongue weight.


Mine was rated for 1,250# in weight distributing mode. Meaning when using a WD hitch. Point in this is the TT loaded tongue weight does not want to be a lot larger than the weight distributing mode of the truck receiver. In this case either move some things in the camper or upgrade the receiver if the rear axle on the truck can handle it. Just do not move all the weight off the front and put it on the back wall. The camper needs to be balanced right too.

Now to backing up, you may have heard the catch all statement about, do not back up with the sway bars on... The problem with that wide open statement is no on ever explained it. The WD hitch and a friction sway bar has no idea which direction the truck is going. I'm also assuming you are referring to a standard WD hitch with a friction type anti sway bar. The type of WD hitch I have, has no sway bar, just WD bars and high friction on cams to create the anti sway system. There are a lot of different brands and type of WD hitches. Some better than others pending what trailer they are going on and how you are using it.

Here is the deal on this. For the WD hitch part, in most all cases the WD bar can stay on when backing up. The hitch needs to be set up right to not bind but I have not yet seen one that you cannot safely back up with the WD bars on.

Now to the friction sway bar. Again these telescoping devices have no idea which way the truck is going. If you need to back up a small amount to make a turn, then go for it. Back up, turn and go back forward. Just go slow, do not stomp on it. The sway bar will track right along just fine.

OK now at the camp site. Here is where the concern can come from. When backing into a camp site where you crank the steering wheel really hard, there is then the potential of the sway bar to grab and get bent when the turn is close to max angle going semi fast. So they recommend either loosening up the sway bar or take it off, but you still leave the WD bars on while backing.

Most times at the campsite you have to get out and check in and pay or move a picnic table. Then just take off or loosen it up. You do not need the sway bar driving around in camp. This only is needed on the large backing turns as you can approach jack knife faster back up than going forward. If the back into the site is pretty straight, then just back up.

Here is a pic of a standard round bar WD hitch with a friction type anti sway bar.


Hope this helps and ask away if you need more.

John
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Old 12-17-2012, 08:17 PM   #10
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Ok lots of good info...Thanks.My camper is an 87 and the hitch I had installed on my truck is good for 1000 tongue and 10,0000 WD
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Old 12-18-2012, 07:56 AM   #11
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Ok the tires I have are 2 carlisles load range c with codes 1008 ( 10th week of year 200 2 dynatrails load range c with codes 4610 (46th week of year 2010)
I think I may buy 2 tires,take two oldest off and install one on the spare,have the other for just in case
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Old 12-18-2012, 07:57 AM   #12
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how the heck did that smiley get there? 2008
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Old 12-18-2012, 10:31 AM   #13
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800# REESE DUAL CAM ( STRAIGHT LINE )
IMHO is the best one for your set up.

JohnB has this, and has done a GREAT job on how to set it up PROPERLY!

Thank your son on his service
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Old 12-18-2012, 12:17 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HandiJohn1 View Post
how the heck did that smiley get there? 2008
) following 8 (without a space between) =
try using [] instead of ()
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