Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
Sunline RV Forum
Sunline User Photos

Go Back   Sunline Coach Owner's Club > Model Specific Forums > Sunline Slide Room Travel Trailers
Click Here to Login

Join Sunline Club Forums Today


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 09-25-2018, 01:02 PM   #21
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Virginia
Posts: 39
SUN #10865
maint1 is an unknown quantity at this point
#1 It is the rear, no in or out adjustment on the front. #2 It is the rear. #3 It is the front. #4 Yes the drive is on the front. #5 No this is the front #6 the rear is closer and about 3/8" difference all the way around the slide #7A 3/8" off #7B Almost touching #7C about an 1" #8 Front touches on the top just before it stops the rear wall seems to touch on the bottom but never touches on the top. #9A The bolts are not touching on front or back. #9B the rear is 1 3/4" and front 1 3/8" but nether is touching the plate above. Hope this gives you the info. you need Thanks for all the help Rado
__________________

__________________
maint1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2018, 01:05 PM   #22
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Virginia
Posts: 39
SUN #10865
maint1 is an unknown quantity at this point
Just remembered on the pic. above of rear adjustment the angle iron stop has a threaded hole is there supposed to be a bolt in there?
__________________

__________________
maint1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2018, 06:37 AM   #23
Moderator
 
JohnB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12,643
SUN #89
JohnB is on a distinguished road
Hi Rado,

Thank you very much for getting this detail. This really helps tell and show us what you are up against. In order to look at all this so I can sort out what I believe is going on, I cut and pasted your answers next to my questions so the context of the Q & A lines up. See below.

This is going to take a little time to read, think and sort this out. I can tell by quickly looking, someone in the past adjusted the slide and did not fully understand the ramifications of what they adjusted. There are several areas not right. We will have to go over each area and correct it in sequence explaining why we are doing this and what it is supposed to end up looking like. After you look at the new needs to get it adjusted back to where it is supposed to be, you can make the choice to do this yourself or take the camper to a service tech to do it. Some adjustments will be easier than others. Rusted and frozen bolts always present a challenge. While what you have now is working at some level, it is not where it should be.

I will post back later tonight some of my findings. I have several things to do today getting ready for our Sunline Mid-West Meet and Great this weekend and my time is getting short very quickly.

Thanks

John


Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB View Post
I need this info to help confirm this. Please answer each question by number/letter so I can line up the answers.

1. This rust witness lines showing movement, which slide arm is this from? The rear arm or the front?

Quote:
Originally Posted by maint1 View Post
#1 It is the rear, no in or out adjustment on the front.
2. This picture which show more metal exposed, confirm this is the rear slide wall area?

Quote:
Originally Posted by maint1 View Post
#2 It is the rear.
3. This picture which show less metal exposed, is this the front slide wall area?

Quote:
Originally Posted by maint1 View Post
#3 It is the front.
4. This pic of the master rack, is this at the front wall?

Quote:
Originally Posted by maint1 View Post
#4 Yes the drive is on the front.
5. When you said this, I'm assuming this lines up with this picture.


That pic looks like the rear wall of the slide room. Is it?
Quote:
Originally Posted by maint1 View Post
#5 No this is the front
6. What does the front of the slide room look like when the rear wall looks like the pic you posted? Take pic of the front and post.
Quote:
Originally Posted by maint1 View Post
#6 the rear is closer and about 3/8" difference all the way around the slide
7. And lastly need you to check these and give us dimensions. These pics are from my camper so you can see what I am talking about.

7A. See this pic. with the slide closed. Looking at the same elevation (height) on the camper, (you can count the siding ripples above the decal if needed) what is the gap between the slide room flange and the camper wall flange at both the front wall and the rear wall?

Quote:
Originally Posted by maint1 View Post
#7A 3/8" off
7B. Look at the front top of the slide to the top header molding on the camper wall. What is the gap at the front?

Quote:
Originally Posted by maint1 View Post
#7B Almost touching
7C. Look at the rear top of the slide to the top header molding on the camper wall. What is the gap at the rear?

Quote:
Originally Posted by maint1 View Post
#7C about an 1"
8. Please confirm, when the slide room extended out, does the slide room "front" wall touch first at the top or the bottom of the camper wall? You stated the rear wall touches at the bottom first. Need to confirm where the front touches first.
Quote:
Originally Posted by maint1 View Post
8 Front touches on the top just before it stops the rear wall seems to touch on the bottom but never touches on the top
9. In this picture there is a jack bolt at the end of the slide arms which helps when adjusting the slide up and down or on an angle. There are slots in the mounting plates to allow vertical adjustment. There is a jack bolt at the front and the rear slide arm.


9A. See if the thread end of the jack screw is actually touching the plate above it supporting weight.
Quote:
Originally Posted by maint1 View Post
#9A The bolts are not touching on front or back.
9B. See if the amount of thread exposed at the bottom from the hex head to the bottom of the slide arm plate dimension is the for the same front and rear slide arm. Need to know if this has been adjusted unequal and tell me the actual dimensions.
Quote:
Originally Posted by maint1 View Post
#9B the rear is 1 3/4" and front 1 3/8" but nether is touching the plate above.
To this question:
Quote:
Originally Posted by maint1 View Post

Just remembered on the pic. above of rear adjustment the angle iron stop has a threaded hole is there supposed to be a bolt in there?
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
JohnB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2018, 07:09 AM   #24
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Virginia
Posts: 39
SUN #10865
maint1 is an unknown quantity at this point
Thanks John, Take you time I have a lot of other things to do, replace suspension, check brakes, bearings, replace tires, patch black tank, caulk and remove some of the decals. What ever you come up with will try to do here, 35yr as Supervisor of equipment and building repair may help if not forgotten every thing. My son-law is a farmer and lots of big building, jacks and tools if needed. Thanks again!
__________________
maint1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-27-2018, 08:36 AM   #25
Moderator
 
JohnB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12,643
SUN #89
JohnB is on a distinguished road
Hi Rado,

Getting back to you, if you want to adjust your slide to be optimized where it is supposed to be this will take some time to explain and then for you to adjust. After reviewing, just about every adjustment there is on your slide is not correct. Someone before you was trying to adjust for reason that is not yet known. As you work through this you may find that reason.

I have to go the Meet and Great today and will be back next week. I will leave you with these few things.

See this picture now that I understand the context of the location.



As you confirmed this is the "front" side of the slide. The camper wall is on the left of the picture and the slide room flange and wall is right. The black strip in the middle is the slide gasket which seals the slide room to the camper when the slide is closed. This is not correct. You should not be seeing any black rubber like this when the slide is closed.

Please take a picture and post of the "rear" (back) side of the slide in the same up and down elevation as you did in the front. I'm assuming that pic will show no black slide seal when the slide is closed and the slide room metal flange will be a lot closer to the camper wall. I did not understand your 3/8" off comment. 3/8" from where?

It appears the entire slide room is shifted to the rear about 1/2" maybe 3/4". Your picture should confirm this.


It also appears that the entire slide room is not in the correct elevation plane in the camper and at an angle too. Meaning the slide room is at an angle to the hole in the side of the camper. Here is a quick test that will show you how far out the slide is.

Take a string and have someone hold it at the front of the camper and align the edge of the string with a ridge in the siding. Pull the string all the way to the back of the camper and align the string to the same piece of siding and ridge. When you pull the string tight you can see the slide room siding and how un-parallel to the string it is. When the camper was new and adjusted correct, the slide should be straight in line with the siding. Try this and isf possible used colored string and take a few pics and post to show it is good or it is very far off at the front and rear of the slide room.

Pull the string along entire camper aligned on a ridge of the siding. The camper siding should be a straight line from the front of the camper, at the front of the slide, at the back rear of the slide room and at the end of the camper. This means the camper main frame rails are straight. If you find the back of the camper is lower then the front, this means we need to look at the camper frame. Check this. The slide may not be correct but the camper siding up front and the behind the slide should be.


Then look at the rear of the slide room and see how good or bad the slide room siding lines up with the string. This picture shows it correctly. Try and take a pic and post if possible.


Look at the front of the slide room and see how good or bad the slide room siding lines up with the string. This picture shows it correctly. [U]Try and take a pic and post if possible.


Next topic:

See this area of the camper on the slide arms, both the front and rear. Start now and spray some penetrating oil on the rusted threads of all of the bolts. Do not yet unloosen any bolts just soak the threads. Maybe do a couple of days worth.




Also, look up in the picture post directly above for bolts that hold the slide room to the slide arms. There should be slots in there too, maybe. See if there are hex head bolts or long threads with nuts on them. If long threads with nuts on them, soak those threads with penetrating oil too.

This bracket is on a 2004 camper and a different brand slide system them yours but yours attaches in a similar way to the slide room. Some of the older slides like yours use to use lag bolts into the wood. (you will only see the hex head and no threads). If you have carriage bolts, then you will see threads and a nut like this picture. I really hope you have the lag bolts...







Next Topic:

On your square shaft connection that connects the motor drive front slide arm to the rear auxiliary slide arm, look at the small bolts that hold the square shaft to the shaft of the pinion gear. Put a large adjustable wrench on the square shaft and wiggle it looking for play in the joint. Sometimes the holes get oblonged out and there is a lot of play in the joint. If there is, soak those bolts good too with penetrating oil. Do not yet take the bolts out. We will have to fix this later but I do not want to shift the slide timing yet until we sport everything else out.

Hope this helps and be back next week.

John
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
JohnB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-27-2018, 08:47 AM   #26
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Virginia
Posts: 39
SUN #10865
maint1 is an unknown quantity at this point
Thanks John, Have a GREAT weekend!!
__________________
maint1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-03-2018, 02:08 PM   #27
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Virginia
Posts: 39
SUN #10865
maint1 is an unknown quantity at this point
slide

Hope you had a great weekend. Hope you can see the string, yellow was the only color local hardware had. First two pic. are with string. The others are of something I had missed before. With the slide out measured from trim to ceiling on each end and the rear is about 1 1/4" further down then the front also noticed someone has put a piece of trim on the bottom. Looks as though what the slide rides on has dropped on the rear end. The black covering at the end of the slide next to the main trailer is raveled as though dragging at the end of the travel.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20181001_134345.jpg (59.6 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg 20181001_134428.jpg (38.7 KB, 79 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_0881.jpg (44.4 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_0882.jpg (46.6 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_0858.jpg (74.1 KB, 5 views)
__________________
maint1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-03-2018, 02:12 PM   #28
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Virginia
Posts: 39
SUN #10865
maint1 is an unknown quantity at this point
slide

Hope you had a great weekend. Hope you can see the string, yellow was the only color local hardware had. First two pic. are with string. The others are of something I had missed before. With the slide out measured from trim to ceiling on each end and the rear is about 1 1/4" further down then the front also noticed someone has put a piece of trim on the bottom. Looks as though what the slide rides on has dropped on the rear end. The black covering at the end of the slide next to the main trailer is raveled as though dragging at the end of the travel.
PS: This one has the lag screws .
__________________
maint1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2018, 04:26 PM   #29
Moderator
 
JohnB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12,643
SUN #89
JohnB is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by maint1 View Post
also noticed someone has put a piece of trim on the bottom. Looks as though what the slide rides on has dropped on the rear end. The black covering at the end of the slide next to the main trailer is raveled as though dragging at the end of the travel.
PS: This one has the lag screws .
Hi Rado,

The weekend Meet & Great was Great! Great friends getting together, plenty of food (there is always more than we can eat at a potluck...) and the weather cooperated very well. If you ever get a chance to come to one of our Meet & Greets, it very much worth the trip. Hope to see you some time.

Now to your slide. You have done well again on slide inspection. We may be now getting to a reason a prior owner adjusted the slide to out of proper adjustment. They may have been trying to compensate for what you recently found. I highlighted it up top.

Let's first confirm your string inspection. This picture of the front of the slide shows the slide out of location and the picture aligns with the dimensions you sent earlier.


Did you look at the rear slide wall when the string was pulled? I had asked this earlier looking for 2 pieces of info and do not recall the outcome.

1. With the string pulled tight aligned front of camper to back wall of camper.

Quote:
Then look at the rear of the slide room and see how good or bad the slide room siding lines up with the string. This picture shows it correctly. Try and take a pic and post if possible.


Need to know if the slide is low or higher then the string? Do you recall? A picture would show this.

2. When you pulled the string tight, did the camper wall siding before the slide and the camper wall siding after the slide (at the rear of the camper)
come look to be in a straight line?

This is important to confirm. If the siding before and after the slide of the main camper is not a straight line, then the main camper frame may be bent down behind the rear axle hanger and that is something we need to know. If it is bent down, then the slide hole in the camper is no longer a square rectangle, it is more of a parallelogram with no 90 deg angles at the corners. A square slide room will have a lot of issues trying to go in and out of the out of square hole in the camper. Let's hope your frame is OK, just please check.

This picture shows what I am talking about with the string. This camper does have a bent frame in this picture.

You start with lining up the string at the front of the camper to the siding just before the slide. Like this. The red string is directly over a siding joint.


Then go look at the back of the camper. The string should be in line with the camper siding behind the slide when the front is in line. I hope yours is... this pic shows this camper is not in line.


3. To your comment on the rear of the slide looks like it has dropped and someone has put some truim on, we need to understand this better. It may be that you have what we call "slide floor rot". Water gets in the holes in the bottom of the black Darco plastic membrane and once in, it cannot get out and then rots the floor out.

The end walls of the slide create the stability of the slide. A large percentage of the weight of the slide bears down into the camper floor system by the end walls. If the wall or the floor near the wall is rotted, then there is reduced support. In a large rot case the slide can drop so to speak until it sort of binds up on solid wood.

See this post on how to inspect for slide rot. http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f7...eck-11086.html

See if yours has that soft feeling floor issue. It is fixable. Several of us here on the forum have had to deal with this with pictures of the repair.

4. You mentioned the black plastic on the bottom of the slide floor is torn, that can happen and in your case with the slide way out of adjustment it can really aggravate it tearing.

Take some pics of the torn Darco and post. Pending how bad it is you might be able to get by for a while with it or you need to fix it soon before it becomes a bigger problem. Sometimes the tears are only at the inside end of the slide floor and others the tears are full width of the slide floor.

Depending on how bad it is, will depend on how to fix it. It is fixable, just like all things camper repair related, it will take some time to do it.

Hope this helps

John
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
JohnB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2018, 07:07 PM   #30
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Virginia
Posts: 39
SUN #10865
maint1 is an unknown quantity at this point
Thanks John Glad the weekend went great. There was a Virginia Campers get together going on down the road at Ed Allen's Campground, but not quite ready with this trailer. We are about 6 Miles from them. it is a great sight been there with another RV.
Will get pictures, I thought I sent one of the rear but not at the angle. I know the rear end of the slide is soft about 8" to 10" toward the front. dose the wall sit on the floor like a house frame? Thanks again have a great weekend!
__________________
maint1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2018, 07:14 AM   #31
Moderator
 
JohnB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12,643
SUN #89
JohnB is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by maint1 View Post
I know the rear end of the slide is soft about 8" to 10" toward the front. dose the wall sit on the floor like a house frame?
Hi Rado,

Soft slide... OK will get into that now. Will look for the pics to come on the area that is soft to better understand. To your question on does the wall sit on the floor like house build, well yes and no.

You can scan this post quick for my slide floor rot repair. There is a lot to read but the pics show a lot of what happened and how I overcame it. Now having been through it and seen others, if needed replacing the entire floor is not that hard to do and you do not have to remove the slide from the camper if you do not want to.

http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f7...age-10695.html

Here are some pics of my 2004 showing the metal trough, the slide floor and the walls on how all this fits and works. Your 2001 vintage should be built about the same. The 2005 models and newer had some upgrading in the design.

The slide supported ready to remove the bad section of floor


The bad section removed


Inside looking out


Outside looking in


The entire bad area section cut out and prepping for new


Looking up and what I'm going to talk about how the slide is supported


When the slide is fully extended out The flush slide floor is supporting weight along the full length that rests on the metal trough of the camper floor. The long side wall is supported by the 2 steel slide arms below. The end walls of the slide and the roof of the slide have metal flanges pressed against the inside of the camper walls. These 2 end walls and ceiling area support the slide sort of hanging onto the slide from hanging out of the camper. In this case the majority of the down weight of people and slide room weight is held by the full length of the metal floor trough area and the 2 steel slide arms holding up the long outside wall.

When the slide room is retracting in or extending out the areas of load support change a lot. The first thing to unload weight is the actual long floor section that was resting on the metal floor trough. Once the slide room moves in a few inches, the long length of flooring that once was fully supported on the metal trough is no longer. The floor at this point is now very weak so to speak. Without precautions you should not step on the floor in this case as the center of the floor can break in the center or pull out the dinette from the slide wall. There is no support in the center in this case.

As the slide room moves in or out, the slide arms are still holding the outside long wall and taking load. The end walls of the slide room are now carrying a lot of load. This is where a soft slide floor can leave no support as it is rotted. The end walls are now literally dragging on the ends of the trough holding up a large part of the weight of the slide room.

Once the slide is all the way in, the slide room end walls loads go down but the long wall which is now all the way into the camper is now resting on the metal floor trough and being held by the 2 steel slide arms. The last 2 to 3" of end walls to enter the camper are taking some load but the entire slide is hanging inside the camper off the wall flanges and being held by the floor trough and slide arms.

The center of the slide room floor has no support at all out in the middle of the camper. It is not touching the floor. If you need to walk on that floor when the slide is all the way in, you need to create a rug board. A board create of the right thickness covered in carpet to act as a large shim you put under the slide floor to create support between the camper floor and the slide floor.

In my camper we have to step on the slide floor when it is in to get across it. I have the rug board and then no problems. In your floor plan the slide almost stops all movement through the camper as the slide is so close to the sink counter. But the dinette is still accessible. A rug board should still be used if you sit in the dinette with the slide in. You may have not know this, most don't until it is explained to them. It never showed up in the Sunline manuals that I recall but we have talked about it here on the forum as some have broken the slide dinette away from the wall walking on the slide when it is in and no rug board.

I have pics of the rug board if you want to see it. I have to find them... but glad to if it helps

Thanks

John
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
JohnB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2018, 07:03 PM   #32
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Virginia
Posts: 39
SUN #10865
maint1 is an unknown quantity at this point
Thanks John will get pictures tomorrow or first of week. It feels like ours is similar to yours on floor rot but feels like it goes farther toward the main unit. Looking inside the trim looks lower into the carpet and the top measurement to the ceiling on each end are about 1" off Further away from the ceiling in the rear. Did find out what went in the two screw holes I saw in the skirt of the slide, missing the rods that hold the wires going from trailer too slide. I guess someone took it off and did not replace. The slide seems to work ok for now. Got any guess how long it will work, want to use it in the spring to go the Arkansas for Grandson HS graduation and after that will have time to work on it. Not good anymore at working in the cold. Thanks have a good one!!
__________________
maint1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2018, 10:07 PM   #33
Moderator
 
JohnB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12,643
SUN #89
JohnB is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by maint1 View Post
The slide seems to work ok for now. Got any guess how long it will work, want to use it in the spring to go the Arkansas for Grandson HS graduation and after that will have time to work on it. Not good anymore at working in the cold.
I can relate to working in the cold can get old real quick now a days....

Once I see the pics you will be posting, I may be able to give a better guesstimate on the how long the slide may keep working until you can get to it. Or what to do if it stops working. Odds are high it has been that way for a while. And this is starting to add up to "maybe" why someone adjusted the slide so far out of normal to get it to work as some level.

Thanks

John
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
JohnB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-08-2018, 06:10 PM   #34
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Virginia
Posts: 39
SUN #10865
maint1 is an unknown quantity at this point
Pictures

John The first 2 pic are with string line hope you can see, but looks pretty straight except the slide part. The next three are the damaged area the red marks on the Darco are what seem soft the last of the three are where the Darco is ripped. Not sure which came first the rip or the rot. The owner before removed part of the carpet at that end of the floor maybe because the slide was damaging it. The last picture is with the camera on the floor with the slide in shooting under it, do not know if you can make anything out in that one. Hope you get this am have computer trouble or internet trouble Have a great one Thanks Rado
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSC_0899.jpg (74.2 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_0896.jpg (105.8 KB, 2 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_0892.jpg (75.1 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_0891.jpg (73.4 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_0905.jpg (95.3 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_0902.jpg (53.3 KB, 4 views)
__________________
maint1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-08-2018, 07:10 PM   #35
Moderator
 
JohnB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12,643
SUN #89
JohnB is on a distinguished road
Hi Rado,

I see you have mastered posting pics! Good for you and those are really good pics. The magic marker really helped show has far the soft floor is.

There is good news and news...

The good news and this is really good news, your yellow line shows your steel main camper frame is in not bent. This is really good as explaining and doing the repair to fix that is a "project" and then some. But as with most all things that would be repairable too if you have the time and access to the right tools.

Now the news... with your slide floor rot being that advanced it now helps explain why the slide is so far out of adjustment. The rear wall is what carries a lot of load when the slide is closed or in the transition from open to closed. It being that large of an area it may even affect the slide when fully extended. Your trim measurements show this too.

Now to the question, can this hold together until some warm time next year? This issue has been ongoing a good while. That is not something new. Since the slide gasket (the large black rubber wiper seal that goes around the end walls and along the top) does not seem to be leaking water into the camper, or that I recall you saying it was leaking, then you do have some time before it deteriorates to the point it is not usable.

I do not know how many camping trips your are trying to get through before the repair, but a "guess-timate" would be you could "maybe" sneak by with 4 to 8 of them. Maybe a few more. The issue will get worse the longer it goes, there is no stopping that short of fixing it. The Dacro will shred some more, but you can repair that when the time comes. It is unknown right now if the entire floor needs to be replaced or you can do a partial replacement like I did. You can make that call once to cut into the Dacro and peel it back to see what you have.

I would say do this though.

1. Find the screw holes in the black Darco membrane on the wet side and tape them closed to stop any more water from getting in.

The holes look like this in the red circle. They screw the floor to the wall. The screw itself inside may be rusted away or actually still there all rusted up and the wood around it all rotted. There should be several holes about every 6 to 8 inches along the rear wall. If you can unscrew the screw and the head is not holding anything as the wood is all rotted away, then the unscrew the screw out if you can. If the head is still holding wood, then leave it in. It will help not having the exposed screw head with no wood around it to dig into the trough. Just try not to make the hole a lot bigger doing so as it will make tapping it closed all that much harder.


Clean the area well with rubbing alcohol or other high flash cleaner to get any dirt and grime off. Then using Gorilla Tape, and accept no substitutes, tape them closed. Press it on good and hard. This is a patch job for sure but it help slow down making the issue worse if you camp in the rain.

2. When you are not camping, keep the slide closed. It cannot get a water infection in the floor when closed. If you are working on the camper and need it open, by all means open it. During the work time when retiring for the night, close it back up in case it rains.

3. Keep an eye on the situation. Odds are high the black Darco will continue to shred more and the rot may/will advance some more even with no new water being added. If things start getting really bad, then you know about it and depending on what that is, you can try and do something to get you through until you get back home.

4. Feel the front bottom of the slide floor pushing up. If it is rock hard, great, tape the holes shut so this end does not get water infected. If it is starting to get soft, well OK still tape the holes shut but it can help tell you what more to expect come repair time. The tape on this end may roll up when the slide goes in an out, so keep and eye on it. We can do a permanent repair when the time comes.

Trying to adjust the slide right now is not going to be very fruitful with the floor that rotted. If you start getting a water leak in through the slide seals then we can revisit the adjustment to patch you through.

Bottom line, go have fun camping and keep an eye on it. Come next year or when the time comes, post away and we can start back up on the floor repair and then a total redo on the slide adjustments. And when that time comes, a new post on slide floor rot repair is a good one to help you and others who may have this issue.

Hope this helps.

Thanks

John

PS, let us know how the campout comes out. Always good to hear and see folks having good times in the Sunline.
__________________

__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
JohnB is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
1984 Sunline Slide in Truck Camper hogorlando Sunline Truck Campers 18 03-08-2016 09:10 PM
Slide vs. No Slide sewfancy Sunline Community 25 05-01-2015 09:39 AM
2001 T260SR slide problem lovetorv Sunline Community 7 04-01-2013 07:33 AM
T260SR Slideout problem JimJan Repairs and Maintenance 15 11-03-2012 10:42 PM
Treating Top Slide Seals when you have a Slide Topper PTHutch Sunline Slide Room Travel Trailers 4 04-29-2009 05:12 PM


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Sunline RV or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:54 AM.


×