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Old 10-18-2012, 08:19 PM   #1
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Sunline Solar T-36 Slide Out Switch

We just recently purchased a 1997 Sunline Solar T-36 with a slide out. For whatever reason the slide out switch had been removed leaving behind four wires protruding out of the opening. I notice that there is a cut off switch in the cabinet directly above the switch, which I suspect accounts for two of the wires, and then I'm guessing the other two wires (once energized) actuate the motor causing the slide to come in or go out.

Is there a right or wrong way to reconnect these wires back up to a new switch? They are black and white only. I'm assuming that this is a 12v. motor on the slide out as I only see two wires coming off the motor, one black and the other white.

Thank you!
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Old 10-18-2012, 08:50 PM   #2
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Do you have a picture of the back of the switch?

If memory serves, there should be 5 wires to the switch... Let me see if I can find a wiring diagram....



Here we go.....



The ground wire (Usually white) may just have a jumper coming from it.
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Old 10-18-2012, 09:08 PM   #3
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Hi Watchmen,

First off welcome to Sunline Owners Club! Congrats on your new camper. I looked up a 1997 T-36SS. Wow that is a camper.... Seeing that size camper and floor plan it look like you have a flush floor super slide.

I do not know what slide mechanism you have, it might be a Barker Mfg. as Sunline used the Barker in the earlier years of slides. Later they went to the Lippert system. See here if it looks like one of these. The way they create the rack and pinion drive will help tell. Click on the images they blow up in size.

Barker Slides 2

Now the switch. I have never seen your unit but I know mine well and what you are describing sounds like the standard older slide setup. The cut off switch in the cabinet is a saftey switch. If for some reason the normal extend and retract switch welds itself on, you have that kill switch in the camper to stop the slide system. That kill switch should be in the power feed line from the battery. It should have 2 wires on it. One direct to the battery area, (there will be a fuse in that line as well, like 30 amp or a self reseting circuit breaker) If you have a volt meter you can tell which wire on that kill switch is the battery hot wire.

The other wire off that kill switch should jump down to the main extend and retract switch to supply power. So that is 1 wire hanging out of the wall.

The motor has 2 wires coming back from it. They may be red and black or white and black coming back from the motor. If you crawl under the camper and look at the motor wire colors that may help which ones are the motor.

The 4th wire should be a DC ground wire (-). An ohm meter looking for continuity to ground will confirm.

The system is 12 volt, that was one of your questions.

On a DC motor flipping the polarity of the motor leads changes the direction of the motor. The slide switch that is missing had contacts that changed the polarity of the motor leads. There was a hot wire (from the kill switch, a DC ground wire and then the 2 slide motor wires. The slide switch would flip flop the motor leads from DC+ to DC - to gain slide extend and retract.

Depending on how the switch was created, it may have had a jumper on it to create 2 DC - ground terminals on the switch.

See here on my Lippert system. There is a wiring diagram on page 19. It does not show the kill switch as Sunline added that but it is in the power line, at least on mine. Yours should be as well.

http://www.lci1.com/OwnersManuals/Sl...ideout-Web.pdf

If yours is a Barker Mfg slide system they are still in business. These folks may be able to help you on what switch you need and confirm the hook up.

Barker Service

If you strike out at Barker, the Lippert slide switch can be an option. He is some more info on them for their switch.

http://www.lippertrepairparts.com/pdf/8-3-10-0024.pdf

These folks sell Lippert parts. They are part of RV Upgrades here in Ohio. I never bought from their lippert part branch but have the main company with positive results.
Lippert New Style Slide-Out Switch

Or you can go direct to Lippert. They have an old and new style, you may have to buy the pigtail or make you own with push on terminals. Just make sure they are 30 amp terminals
Lippert Components, Inc Shopping Cart

Hope this helps and please post back what you find. Knowing what year yours is and what brand slide system we are slowing putting the history of how Sunline built the camper back together.

Hope this helps and good luck

John
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Old 10-18-2012, 09:19 PM   #4
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Here's what it looks like, in case you don't have the actual part:

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Old 10-18-2012, 09:21 PM   #5
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John, yes it's a flush floor, but not flush like ours. I don't believe these slides dropped down at the last moment. I think it retained the inch or so floor height (carpeted) above the main floor.
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2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9467.8 (as of 5/26/19)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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Old 10-18-2012, 09:22 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by watchman7 View Post

Is there a right or wrong way to reconnect these wires back up to a new switch? They are black and white only. I'm assuming that this is a 12v. motor on the slide out as I only see two wires coming off the motor, one black and the other white.

Thank you!
I forgot this question, yes there is a wrong way. While having the motor direction backwards does not hurt anything, just switch the leads so extend and retract on the switched reads right, getting the power, the jumpers and the ground on the right pins is the issue. Accidentally switching the hot to a ground direct is a big dead short.

The switch is created from 2, single pole double throw switches and both sides of the switch flip at the same time.

Do you have a new switch now? If so post a pic of the back of it so we can see it and can better help how to sort it out if you need help. The key is to get the power jumpers and ground jumpers on right.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 10-18-2012, 09:31 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunline Fan View Post
John, yes it's a flush floor, but not flush like ours. I don't believe these slides dropped down at the last moment. I think it retained the inch or so floor height (carpeted) above the main floor.
Jon, Sunline was ahead of the industry in light weight campers. This T-36SS was a 37' 3" Super slide camper with bunks and a monster bath weighing 7,350# empty. Granted it is a 10,000# GVWR TT but a 37 foot that light??? The new light weights of today are trying to get this light. I have noticed this in a lot of the older ones. The new TT's of today are trying to get back to where Sunline was.

The slide floor lift above the carpet may have come with the Lippert system. I can see why the Lippert is made to be more conducive to lifting up at an angle. Not that the Barker may not be, just it may be easier to create it on the Lippert. Plus slide evolution continued in the industry as time when on.
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Old 10-18-2012, 11:13 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB View Post
Jon, Sunline was ahead of the industry in light weight campers. This T-36SS was a 37' 3" Super slide camper with bunks and a monster bath weighing 7,350# empty. Granted it is a 10,000# GVWR TT but a 37 foot that light??? The new light weights of today are trying to get this light. I have noticed this in a lot of the older ones. The new TT's of today are trying to get back to where Sunline was.

The slide floor lift above the carpet may have come with the Lippert system. I can see why the Lippert is made to be more conducive to lifting up at an angle. Not that the Barker may not be, just it may be easier to create it on the Lippert. Plus slide evolution continued in the industry as time when on.
I keep saying, the mid '90s Sunlines were the best! Advanced for their time, but not too full of fancy, troublesome gadgets. They were tanks, yet still lightweight!
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2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9467.8 (as of 5/26/19)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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Old 10-19-2012, 08:02 AM   #9
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Wow! Thanks for all the information you've all been willing to supply! Based on my owners manual that came with the trailer it is a Barker EZ Power Slide of the rack and pinion design, with a worm drive gear box.

I contacted them and ordered a replacement switch, however they no longer make the original style due to safety issues. Instead it now involves a new control box and then a new rocker switch with cover. If you go to their website and look for technical info., you will see what they refer to as a "Manual Current Limiter" and it provides the technical data for the new switch along wih a wiring diagram.

The new switch will only have three wires connected to it, one of which is a ground. These will come from the new contol box. All other wiring goes to the control box first, i.e. the two motor wires, ground, battery, and then the two wires running to the new switch. The ground wire to the control box is tapped into and supplies the third wire to the switch and provides a continous ground to the frame. Specific instructions are given that inform the installer to connect the 12 volt (+) wire last.

To slightly complicate matters, when I went to clean off the 12 volt battery terminals a couple of days ago, I discovered that none of the wires were connected up to the battery, but were instead neatly tucked in along side of it in the battery case. It wasn't until I took the cover off that I discovered it. In my very limited experience with RV's, I was of the thought process that the battery had to be connected in order for the 12 volt lighting to work, yet everything works just fine inside the camper, with no problems. Anyway I brought it home to see if it would take a charge. If not, I'll have to replace it, and then I should have the 12 volt power source for the control box to function properly. Right?

Thanks again for everyone's input. It is most appreciated!
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Old 10-21-2012, 09:47 PM   #10
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Hi Watchman7

Thanks for reporting back. H'mm I looked up that new Barker slide controller. It has a settable amp overload system in it. http://www.barkermfg.com/manualcurrentlimiter.pdf

I wonder if the Barker units have a mechanical overload clutch?

When you get yours fixed, when the slide goes out or comes in, do you hear a ratcheting, clunk, clunk, clunk at the end of travel? Like a slip clutch on a battery operated drill motor, just a lot bigger.

Again, thanks for posting back. Now we know Sunline used the Barker system back in 1997. Little by little are keep piecing back together the history of how Sunline made the campers.

Thanks

John
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Old 10-23-2012, 06:53 AM   #11
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We are in the process of winterizing the camper, so I probably won't get the switch and control unit installed until spring, and will update as to how it functions at that time. I definitely want to put the switch back in working order as the day may come when I'll want to retract the slide out and would prefer to use the electric motor rather than having to do it manually.

My thanks again to everyone for their help!
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Old 05-01-2013, 08:28 PM   #12
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Well, spring has arrived and I'm back to the issue of the slide out switch replacement for the T- 36 slide out. Would anyone out there be able to post a picture of the backside of their switch so that I can confirm what I think is the solution for a replacement switch? Much appreciated if you are able. Mine is a 1997 Saturn. Thank you!
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