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Old 12-03-2011, 07:00 PM   #1
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Slide Issue to tough?

I am considering the purchase of a 286SR. At the lot I noted that the slide was at least one inch further out at one end than the other. The wallpaper was loose at the floor ie a 2 inch area and curling slightly all the way up. Some of the staples were pulled through.

The dealor said they would realign the slide but when I asked about a short warranty against a repeat of that issue we did not reach agreement. Now this dealor has a good reputation but I am concerned that I may be buying into a long term problem...anyone have any insight into whats happening?
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Old 12-03-2011, 08:05 PM   #2
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There are many members more knowledgeable than I on slide room alignment, but I do know a little about the current inventory out there. What dealer are you looking at? The reason I ask is there's a 286SR @ Chesaco RV in Baltimore, MD that has one with some issues. It looks like it has a lot of water damage and I'd walk away from it unless the price was really really good because of that. It wouldn't surprise me if the slide was mis-aligned on that too. I got into an argument with this particular establishment last winter when they first started advertising it on eBay because they were advertising it as half-ton towable, which it certainly isn't!
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1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
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Old 12-03-2011, 08:21 PM   #3
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Hi George,

Pictures in these cases help so we can see what you are up against. What year 286SR do you have? Remembering I thought the T280SR front kitchen was last made in 2005 and was replaced the T280SR in 2006. So if I have this right you are looking at a 2006 or a 2007.

The good news is very late in the 2004 model year, for sure in the 2005 and newer, Sunline upgraded the slide floor and trough system. Mine is a early 2004 vintage and used the older system setup. Still good but the 2005 upgrades are better.

And yes slides have been known to be out of adjustment. They do have a need to keep track of and when something like you are describing occurs it should be adjusted for soon after it is found. The concern is water intrusion.

The adjustment once understood what does what and what order to adjust them in is not that complex if you are mechanically handy. So do not fear the slide. Once adjusted proper they do stay adjusted right for a real long time. We are talking years of time. Many times they become out of adjustment due to something coming loose from vibration. And then they either are let go as the owner never noticed it or worse adjusted wrong.

We can help walk you through the adjusting process for the future if you get the camper.

Now to the water damage you are describing. Do you know how many inches stuck out as the one side? A 1/2", 1", 2" (yes I have seen other campers 2" hanging out...)

Did the unit have a slide topper on it?

By the slide not closing all the way moisture could have worked it's way inside. The wet is what may have lifted the wall paper.

I would not be so concerned about the actual slide mechanism, if they adjust it correctly it should hold. While they may not warrant it, if they can at least assure you they will fix any broken slide mechanism parts if there are any and properly adjust the slide to close and fully open correctly that is a big step. If they do this much then the lack of warranty is not some much a concern. A dealer warranting a used camper, good luck.

Odds are good the slave rack end slipped in the slide arm holes and the slide hangs out when closed.

Looks like this adjustment


It is mounted here


Or the master rack loosen up here at this thread rod adjustment. But I'd check the slave rack first as that is the most usual spot.


The bigger concern is the water damage. Did you feel anything damp? Smells like rot or heavy moldy musty odor? Put your nose right down there and sniff and poke around feeling for soft wood. A prior wet spot that has dried up still may have some odor to it but a still wet one will make you gag up close and feel damp. Take paper towels they can wick up moisture to see if there is any.

With the slide out, lift the carpet flap and looking under it in the corners. Feel for soft wood, even take an ice pick if he will let you probe. If you have a bad situation and can push an ice pic in 2 inch or more, well it got rot. Solid wood is solid and an ice pic will not go in much if any. 1/32" to 1/16" maybe and that is pushing it on solid wood in the frame. The 1/8" thick luan wall, well don't push to hard on it.

The key is you know what your buying and if there is signs of water damage you can use that as a price negotiating point. Having fixed my own slide floor from rot everything is fixable. However the big difference is if your handy with wood working or not. If you are handy you can do the work and your only paying for materials which in the big picture is not a lot. If you have to hire this work out, if the damage is a lot it can add up quick at $95 to $110/hr. If all you have is some curled up wall paper and the wood is sound, that is not a big issue to deal with. If the lower part of the side of the wall has a considerable amount of rot that can be more of an issue. But again, all is fixable

For me, if the price was right and I wanted that camper and I know what was right or wrong, I may still buy it but at a reduced price. The dealer may not even know there is a rot problem.

We had a club member here buy a 5th wheel. From the club he knew to look for slide floor rot. He pointed it out to the dealer, it shocked them and they put an entire new floor on before he took the rig. Do not know if yours is this big of an issue, but heads up go looking.

On the 286 if it is a 2006 or 2007, look at the very end of the slide for soft wood. Again take the ice pic. The newer floors had a plastic coating on them which protects the bottom of the floor. But the ends have tended to wick in water.

These are 2 pics of a 2005 slide, and on a T280SR no less...


The black edge can crack if left exposed outside all the time and water can wick in the cracks and rot the floor. The prior vintage that use Darco membranes had other issues. If the wood is hard, then no worried you can seal up the end later.



Hope all this helps and good luck with your camper.

John
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Old 12-03-2011, 08:49 PM   #4
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John

Wow you really know this stuff...I remembered you had done a repair job in the past. They are getting back to me on Monday to let me know on the mechanism and what they will do. I did not think they would cover it for more that a few weeks. It is a 2006 and I did not bring a pick up with me. Use to do that with boats. I did check to insure that the bottom of the slide was sound but that was with taping. It looked to me like the previous owner had not adjusted it for some time and when the AC was on it was drawing worm moist air through the poorly sealed side. the difference in slides is somewhere around three quarter to an inch. I could get my fingers down on one side but not the other. The complicating factor is the siding is filon and not aluminum. I checked for delamination over the whole coach and especially the edge in this area. Nothing. The slide does have a topper. From what you have described above I am comfortable with the adjustment but probably not the woodwork. Not sure what the track record has been on the filon with Sunline but originally I was trying to avoid it.

Sunline Fan. I am aware of that dealorship...not sure but what some of those may be FEMA units. The one I am looking at is located near Fredricksburg VA
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Old 12-03-2011, 09:11 PM   #5
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Ooh, I know exactly the one. Looks in good shape otherwise!
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2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9467.8 (as of 5/26/19)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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Old 12-03-2011, 09:15 PM   #6
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Yes, are you familiar with it...haven't used dealer name for legal reasons.
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Old 12-03-2011, 09:21 PM   #7
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Oh that's fine. I just know about it from finding the listing online, but I don't know much about it. Don't even have a VIN for it. They haven't had it a real long time though, since about mid-October is all.
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2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9467.8 (as of 5/26/19)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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Old 12-03-2011, 09:25 PM   #8
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George,

Having a slide topper can be a saving grace in the case.... It would direct a majority of the water off the sides of the camper.

H'mm running the AC unit and drawing in moist air? May be. I never thought of that. Like I said if it is just the wall paper lifting and the wood is sound, the fear level drops quick.

The 2 finger test, good test actually. The seal bulb is right about at 3/4" maybe a little more. It for sure was not sealed right but 3/4 to 1" is a whole lot better then 1" to 1 1/2" and more.

As added info, I have weighed a few of T280SR and T286SR's loaded ready for camping at Meet and Greets. Be expecting a 1,200# loaded tongue weight. You will need a WD hitch with anti sway control that big and the truck to hold it up. And the storage in the back under the bed helps offset the front kitchen weight. If you do not put gear in the back under the bed that 1,200# loaded tongue can rise above that.

The filon and delamination, we have not heard of much of this here on the club on the Sunlines. Sunline must of figured out how to do that right. Part of it is sealing the roof right. As long as the caulking is still in good shape and kept after the unit is built right. Delamination from what I have read comes from water intrusion behind the siding and it is down hill from there. And it does not matter if it is aluminum either...

I hope this works out for you. That is one nice camper if it is a 2006 unit.

If the camper follows you home, remember we like pics of Sunlines!

Good luck

John
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Old 12-03-2011, 09:29 PM   #9
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I just saw your TV in your sig. That 2500 Dodge will do you well with this camper.
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Old 12-03-2011, 09:36 PM   #10
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John I have been using a Reese dual cam straight line with the 1200 trunion bars. It has been great with the 2363. It is so well behaved that I could tell the difference in 5 links and six as soon as I hit speed from the slight pull.
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Old 12-03-2011, 09:37 PM   #11
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WOW, that looks great. I really like that floor plan, and the fiberglass makes it look really sharp, also looks like it has aluminum rims ? As Jon said, poke your head/nose & ice pick into every nook & cranny. Don't forget to get a ladder from the dealer or take your own so you can inspect the roof, vents, AC shroud, slide roof and awnings. Check the date codes of the tires(out dated tires can help with bargaining). There is probably stuff i have forgotten, but I'm sure you will be doing a very thorough inspection. Good Luck,

Kitty
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Old 12-03-2011, 09:49 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kanyonkitty View Post
WOW, that looks great. I really like that floor plan, and the fiberglass makes it look really sharp, also looks like it has aluminum rims ? As Jon said, poke your head/nose & ice pick into every nook & cranny. Don't forget to get a ladder from the dealer or take your own so you can inspect the roof, vents, AC shroud, slide roof and awnings. Check the date codes of the tires(out dated tires can help with bargaining). There is probably stuff i have forgotten, but I'm sure you will be doing a very thorough inspection. Good Luck,

Kitty
In addition to Aluminum rims, I see:
- Filon exterior
- Diamond Plate front lower
- Hinged LP cover
- Awning center tension rafter
- Sealed Burner Range
- Deluxe kitchen faucet
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1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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Old 12-03-2011, 09:51 PM   #13
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Thanks Kitty, I plan to replace the tires, tey are OEM which makes them badly outdated. lube the bearings, and change out bat to two 6s for solar. It looks to me to have room for 4 sixs. Behind the tanks. We do a lot of boon docking and we were going to have to get a little exotic to do so with the 2363. To date we covered about 50,000 with that little trooper.

Jon I will send pictures of it, it has been highly modified. We got it originally as a starter that we could learn from...did we ever.
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Old 12-03-2011, 10:18 PM   #14
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Thanks everyone for your insight and time.
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Old 08-14-2012, 09:23 PM   #15
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I just found a similar issue with my slide, but it appears to be opposite. The track is drawing the slide room in to far and pulling apart the outer wall. I checked the slave rack which seems tight. What are steps to re-adjust the master rack.
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Old 08-15-2012, 09:41 PM   #16
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Hi Jake,

What you are describing sounds like the master rack is out of adjustment. One of these days I will create a complete "How To" post on this but until then, see here.

http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f71/t260sr-slideout-problem-13490.html

At around reply # 7 it explains how the slide works and what each adjustment does. If after reading that you still have more questions, fire away.

Also to not, when you adjust the master rack to not close so hard on the camper, then the slave rack may not seal. This is to be expected, you then loosen the bolts on the end of the slave arm and there are slots in the slide support bracket that can slide the entire bracket on the slave rack to shift it in or out as needed.

Good luck and let us know if you need more.

John

PS. This is a big International you have there. What is that about a 75 to 90hp tractor?
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Old 08-15-2012, 09:45 PM   #17
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Jake,

In case you have not seen this thread, when you get done adjusting your slide, read this thread. Check your slide floor for rot and if it is rock solid, then seal up those holes in the vapor barrier, "now" and save yourself a lot of grief.

2004 & Older Slide Floors. Something you should check.

John

EDIT: Jake, I just saw in your other post you have the upgraded plastic coated slide floor. The Thread above will not apply to you however can read it at your leisure to see what you lucked out on.... There is one generation next fix to the slide floor you have now. Sunline went out before it came know in the industry. The very ends of the coated slide floor have a tendency to have slight cracks and water can wick in the cracks. If yours has them in the very ends, put some Dicro roof sealant or other good sealer on them now. Once water gets it, then it festers and start rotting from the ends in. The higher level campers that use that new floor system now out a shield over the end to keep the water out. You can use my drip edge approach in the link if you want.
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