rubber seal on T-286

[sandbanksdix]

Does anyone know the final resting position of the rubber seal flange when the slide is closed for the winter? When I was closing the slide last week, the flange kept trying to flip inside, so I ran my fingers up the flange to keep it out. Quite difficult! Was this the right thing to do? Or should I have let it tuck inside as the slide closed?
Thanks, from Lorraine.
(Picture enclosed shows rubber flange position when slide is opened.)

[MACK C-85]

Our T-276 tucks in. I've never touched it and it's never leaked. (Knock on Wood!!!)

Mack

[Steve Collins]

The seals on all four of our slides all tuck in as they are retracted. I generally run them in slowly to make sure they all flip in all the way around. If they don't tuck in, I help them along.

[sandbanksdix]

Thank you Mack for your info. Shall check next week when I go back to park.

[sandbanksdix]

Thank you Steve...shall pull my slide in slowly and watch for proper tucking.

[Sunline Fan]

Mine goes in too. That's more of an air seal. The water seal is accomplished by bulb seals around the outer frame of the slide.

[JohnB]

If you are referring to the "wiper" part of the seal, It looks like a flap about 2" long, the wiper will flip outside when the slide is going out and flip inside when the slide is going in. That is to keep bugs, water and other outside things, outside. It also fills he void between the slide frame in the trailer and the slide unit. So let it flip out and in when the slide goes in that direction.

There is a soft compression round "bulb" seal on the inside and outside (the wiper is in the middle) that creates the more positive water seal. The slide aluminum flange presses this bulb flat and creates the tight seal.

These seals get dry and even more grippy after a while of being exposed to sun and air. Treating them with 303 UV protectant helps them stay more pliable longer and slows down the UV breakdown. If the seals stick bad, and this does happen where the room really almost breaks free from full in or out, then using liquid spray silicone on a rag and wiping the seals helps this from sticking. It only lasts about 3 to 4 months but it will help the stuck part.


Hope this helps

John

[sandbanksdix]

Thank you John, your reply to my concern clears up my worries. I did spray a silicone-free rubber protectant on the day before closing, but shall try to find the 303 UV protectant you refer to, here in Ontario, Canada.
Thanks again,
Lorraine.

[JohnB]

Hi Lorraine

Here is the 303 in case you did not know the brand

303® Aerospace Protectant 32oz

It comes in smaller bottles and gallon size. I buy the gallon size and it goes about 2 years. I use it on all the plastic on the camper to help ward off the UV sun issues. I also use it on the rubber roof after cleaning it to help treat/protect it. And for sure the top part of the vinyal awning to help stop the sun baking destroying the awning. If by chance you have a fabric awning, then no do not use this. The standard Sunline issue Dometic A & E Sunchaser was vinyl for the newer campers.

John

[henryj]

Hi Lorraine,
I've had no luck finding 303 in Canada since Canadian Tire made a deal with Autoglym and dropped 303 and picked up about 2 doz. different products from Autoglym. I usually pick up 303 at a Camping World when we're in the US.

Having said that, I've used both Armor All and more recently Autoglym and frankly don't see a lot of difference. I wouldn't hesitate to use Autoglym if you can't find 303. They make everything from vinyl/rubber protectant to paint remover, so read the label carefully before buying and using. Look for "Vinyl and Rubber Care".

Henry

[ihsolutions]

I remember reading somewhere that Armor All contains petroleum distillates, which is not something you want to use per my understanding. Ever since reading that I have not used it. It's 303 all the way for me (tires, roof, plastic parts, etc).

"It's SPF 40 for your stuff!"