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Old 03-14-2016, 06:27 PM   #1
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No power

Hi everybody, starting to get a little warm outside, but not time to unwinterize, but figured open up the slide room and check everything out! My problem is I dont have complete power through out the camper. I left it plugged in over the winter and the battery in the on position. The only things that has power were the slide room (12V), the microwave and counter outlets, (120V), and the electric tong jack (12V). The lights dont work, the fridge does not work, the AC/heat does not work, outside lights dont work. I tried reseting breakers, checking fuses, unplug and replug in. Im stunned. This is a 2004 Sunline solaris T-264SR. Any input is greatly appricated! Thanks.
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Old 03-14-2016, 10:17 PM   #2
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Did you check and reset all the GFCI outlets?
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Old 03-15-2016, 08:23 AM   #3
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Your tongue jack works because it is wired directly to the battery. I just checked in my 06 264SR and my slide room has a 15amp fuse in the converter. I do know that some other mfgs run the slide room directly off the battery. Check and see if you have 15amp fuse for the slide in the converter. If not double check all your fuses including the 2 40amps.
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Old 03-15-2016, 09:11 AM   #4
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The slide and tongue jack most likely have their own battery connections/fuses due to the high current draw there should be an inline fuse for the other 12 volt stuff generally 30 amp. The heat, fridge needs a 12 volt and probably water heater all need 12 volts DC for the controllers to work. Some where you have a GFI that probably is tripped causing some of the 120 volt AC stuff not to work a plug in heater often will trip a GFI because if it's resistive load.
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Old 03-15-2016, 06:35 PM   #5
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I guess I had a senior moment on my reply this AM. The 15amp fuse in the converter is for lights in the slide. Like mainah said, check all your GFI's but even with one tripped your 12vDC part is still getting 120vAC from its own breaker. You need to recheck your fuses like I said. I am leaning to the 40amp fuses because you should be still getting 12vDC from the battery even with something wrong with the converter.
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Old 03-16-2016, 07:36 AM   #6
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When you say microwave and counter outlets I'm thinking your 120 volt stuff is fine. The counter should have it's own GFI because it's close to water and it works. The outlets have nothing to do with your interior lights they are all 12 volts DC. The jack and the slide work so the battery is good. That leaves you with lack of power to the acc. and lights I sure they are different fuses for each so that leaves you with a complete lack of power to the fuse panel. I don't know your camper but I think you have a sealed box up with the battery and inside that box there should be a large fuse that would protect the converter and the wiring going to it and the fuse panel. It should be in the 30-40 amp range.
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Old 03-16-2016, 06:59 PM   #7
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thanks fors the replies! I personally installed the electric tongue jack, I wired it right to the battery. were the fuse panel is located by the entry door. there is a small box right above it i believe. this is probably were that fuse is located?
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Old 03-16-2016, 07:03 PM   #8
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Quote:
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When you say microwave and counter outlets I'm thinking your 120 volt stuff is fine. The counter should have it's own GFI because it's close to water and it works. The outlets have nothing to do with your interior lights they are all 12 volts DC. The jack and the slide work so the battery is good. That leaves you with lack of power to the acc. and lights I sure they are different fuses for each so that leaves you with a complete lack of power to the fuse panel. I don't know your camper but I think you have a sealed box up with the battery and inside that box there should be a large fuse that would protect the converter and the wiring going to it and the fuse panel. It should be in the 30-40 amp range.
sorry, just reread an now understand what you are saying. The battery is located on the tongue, but there is no fuse inside of the box. there is a big black box mounted on the frame just behind the battery. I will have to look around tommrow
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Old 03-16-2016, 09:07 PM   #9
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I'll ask a few different questions based on what you stated.

You said the slide works, 12V . But what in the slide? I'm going out on limb here and think you mean the slide motor drive to pull the slide in and out. Yes/No?

I'm assuming yes, and if yes then I think you have 2 problems.

1. The power converter itself is not working or it has a dead short pulling it down to zero. That vintage has a power supply type that when over powered cuts the output verses burning it up. Even with no battery, your power converter will create 12 VDC to power the camper inside unless the converter is bad or there is short on the large red main feed wire from the battery.

2. The 30 amp circuit breaker is toast that is located in the front junction box on the A frame header. These have been known to get corroded and stop working. Or the short pulling the power supply down also burn out the auto reset circuit breaker. You can get these at the auto parts store

See here for what is inside that junction box. One breaker for the power inside the camper, the 2nd breaker for the slide drive motor. This is why the slide drive still works assuming you meant the motor




You may find the heavy red power cable is grounded out somewhere which explains the power converter, the auto reset breaker and no power inside the camper, but the jack and slide motor power work as they are direct to the battery. Well slide motor still goes through the red disconnect switch actually, jack most likely not.

Now, heads up!!!! The cover on that junction box is going to be a treat to get off. Dirt gets jammed in the holes and you have a hard time even getting the screws out.

Take a drill bit and by hand twist in and extract the dirt. The tiny Philips screw head is about 1 1/4 to 1 1/2" buried in the cover. Once you dig your way in, you need a long shank very fine Phillips. Think no 6 or no 4 screw. If you get one crusty in there, tap the screw driver semi gently to break the crud in the screw slots and fully engage the screw driver. Push in hard and unscrew. If your lucky, they all come out.

And once you get them all out, upgrade to this for the next time. I "think" I used no 8 x 1" long stainless sheet metal screws






Also used 3M 33 electrical tape to create a seal over the cover joint to help keep moisture out.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 03-17-2016, 08:42 AM   #10
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His jack works John so I'm guessing his battery is up.
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Old 03-17-2016, 08:48 PM   #11
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Tim, I agree his battery is still up at some level to work the jack and the slide motor if that was what worked on the slide.

If the auto reset breaker on the A frame header is toast, the battery power cannot get into the camper. But, the power converter has an issue too as his vintage will run with no battery.

Will see when he reports back. Or he is still cuss'in those tiny screws on the junction box cover....
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Old 03-17-2016, 09:13 PM   #12
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John, I will check out what you had mentioned this weekend. Been busy with work. But yes, the actual slide motor is what works. Even disconnect line voltage, the battery can still slide it. Battery is less then a year old.
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Old 03-17-2016, 09:15 PM   #13
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just wanted to also say, when I typed this issue up, I said JohnB will have a very detailed solution to the problem and will get this camper back up and running.
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Old 03-19-2016, 01:37 PM   #14
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I learned a lesson today. My first attempt was to get the converter box mounted on the back A-frame opened up. There was so much dirt inside that i couldnt get it opened with a philips screwdriver. I ended up having to pry it open with a flat head. Knowing I will just have to replace it. It gets better, I decided to check the 2 30 amp fuses inside on the fuse panel. and guess what, they were blown. replace and got full power restored.
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Old 03-19-2016, 04:30 PM   #15
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Usually when you take out both fuses it's because the battery was hooked up backwards it only takes an instant.
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Old 03-20-2016, 06:38 PM   #16
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Glad you got it up and going.

Now to the 2, 30 amp fuses, Something made them go out. Ideally you can back into that so something is not lurking out there waiting to go again.


Do you recall when it worked right? And then when it did not and what transpired in between? As Mainah stated, was the battery changed between working and not working?


Bummer on the junction box. Not surprised. Ii is not the most water tight box anyway. And then there are those screws....
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Old 03-20-2016, 08:31 PM   #17
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Quote:
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Glad you got it up and going.

Now to the 2, 30 amp fuses, Something made them go out. Ideally you can back into that so something is not lurking out there waiting to go again.


Do you recall when it worked right? And then when it did not and what transpired in between? As Mainah stated, was the battery changed between working and not working?


Bummer on the junction box. Not surprised. Ii is not the most water tight box anyway. And then there are those screws....
I had winterized it around october last year. and havent stepped foot inside since just last week. I remeber everything working because i had the water pump going to winterize. the new battery was already installed. i do recall when i was winterizeing, instead of dumping antifreeze in the fresh tank i disconnected the inlet of the pump and ran hose directly to the antifrezze containter. i had a series of converting fittings to make the hose work with the pump and container. the antifreeze did spill a little at the pump and did end up getting a little wet. i dried it up as best as i could. and i didnt notice any electrical problems. other then that, dont know anything else it could be. just something i will have to keep an eye on, and have fuses handy.
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Old 03-21-2016, 07:12 AM   #18
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I'm guessing they are converter fuses 30 amps is a fair jolt and the pump has it's own fuse. I don't think the antifreeze bothered it. Some thing caused it and it maybe hard to duplicate just keep some fuses around and try every thing maybe you'll get lucky and pop them again and you'll know just what caused it. It is possible the battery being new held enough power to run the jack and the slide, was the battery installed by you or did some one install it for you? A year or so ago a friend called me with no power in his camper both 30 amps were blown he said it was a new battery I asked who installed it he said he did. Well he also said there was a spark so he figured it was connected backwards and turned it around then left it for the season plugged in came back to a dead battery and no lights.
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Old 03-21-2016, 09:22 PM   #19
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I agree, the water pump should not of affected this. And even if it was the pump, taking out 2, 30amp fuses does not fit with the water pump. The 15 amp fuse protecting the pump would of went way before one 30 amp. The power converted is across the aisle from the converter on the T-264SR. I'm assuming your antifreeze spill happened near the pump, out on the entry floor area or under the kitchen cabinet. That larger power or even the DC fuse bus is higher up off the floor then a small spill. A full inch of water soak, maybe, a spill, not likely.

Odds are high, it will show up again, what ever it was. I would crawl under the camper and check the heavy red wire from the battery all the way back until it goes up through the floor for skinned or gnawed insulation. A 4 legged friend may have visited and is a little toasty right about now.

We had a member with a lizard short out his AC control board up in the air duct. Still amazed at that one. And squirrels eat LP rubber gas lines. Ya, just never know...
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