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Old 05-13-2017, 11:34 AM   #1
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looking at T-267SR

Took a quick look at an 04 t267sr and will probably go back for a good look and make an offer. Read the recent thread about the areas of concern on the slide floor underside and will check that out if we return. Are there any other common trouble areas I should concentrate on? Thanks!
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Old 05-14-2017, 04:16 PM   #2
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Hi and Welcome to the forum.

On the camper you looking at, good you found this slide floor rot issue to look for. That is fixable, just know about it going in and you may be able to get some money off if it is soft. If you can do the work as you have a place to do it and the tools, the cost is not so bad. Paying to have it done can be a expensive due to the labor cost.

On the rest of the camper, the biggest issue will be water infection if it has any, where it is located and how much is infected. This issue happens regardless of floor plan. Is the camper at a private sale or at a dealer? The dealer option may allow a pressure leak test called a Seal Tech leak check if they have one to prove at that moment there are no leaks. That does not mean there is no water damage from a prior leak, just no leaks at the time you buy it.

The roof is one of the larger concerns. A roof leak will start there and then spread down to possibly the ceiling and then down the wall wetness followed by under the camper and floor wetness if the leak is large enough and been there long enough. The water just keeps flowing down to where it can get out or cannot go any further.

For sure you should bring or ask for a solid step ladder to get up on and look at the roof. Do not climb on the roof, you can go through it without the right precautions, just look and feel from the side. The front seam of the roof to the siding and the back seam from roof to siding are the worst 2 areas. Look for cracked caulking at the joints and if there are cracks that exist when your looking. Next area is the gutter rails area and look for cracked, dried up caulking there too. Feel the roof and feel for a rubber tire tube bouncing effect. While the roof is flexible and somewhat soft, it is not normal to feel like a rubber tire tube bouncing, it normally feels soft and stiff. And I know that sounds weird, but the budboard make of the roof feels that way, just not like a pure tire tube. If it feels like that tire tube bounce, then odds are high there is a water infection in that area.

Look at the roof's general condition, is it clean, dirty or black with a very large amount of mold/slime. Just dirt happens and is normal. A small amount of mold also happens. Heavy amounts of dirt, mold and a lot of black suggest the prior owner very rarely cleaned the roof. That and lots of cracked caulking is not a good sign. Look at all the roof vent covers, the shower dome and the fridge cover for cracks that exist when you are looking. Cracks can let water in. They may be brittle and need to be replaced, but if they are not cracked, then odds are better water did not get in. It is not a surprise that vents covers and fridge covers need to be replaced in the near future on a 2004 model. Those are maintenance items.

To do a water inspection can be a large task to learn for your first time through this. What I have listed is a good big picture start but for sure not all of it.

We are working on doing a good water check post, but it is not yet created. We have this video which can help, but is somewhat dealer based in some of the attitude he uses. Sad video, early death of a Sunline

There is also this recent post on a water meter which is a start on inspecting a camper for water damage, but it is not yet complete. The water meter may be helpful to you and some of the responses. Moisture Meters For Inspecting a Camper

And there is this post on doing roof caulking checks. This was more made for when you have the camper, but it may help on buying one Rubber Roof Caulk - Inspect and repair 101

Here is a big picture visual and smell leak check on the inside of the camper.

Open every cabinet or draw, cargo hole, entry door, window, roof vent and look for any signs of water staining and sniff for a wet mold/rotted wood stink. It will smell like musty/mildew. If it smells, then the infection has been in the camper for quite a while.

Look at the ceiling and look at every joint from the walls to the ceiling for water staining, any wrinkled wall paper and then the sniff test.

Look at the tile floors and rugged area, again any signs of water staining, extreme shrunk floor tile. Check around the toilet area for soft floor spots and check the entire floor for soft spots. The floor will flex, it is not rock solid like a house, but you can feel the difference between a soft floor and a flexing one.

While the inside can be pristine and no smells, if the roof is in really bad shape, that is a heads up. Just because you cannot see or smell any water damage inside does not mean there is not any. It just has not progressed to be seen inside. Most water infections can take a year or more to show up inside. It all depends on if it is big leak or small one.

Make sure all the appliances work, and the water system if you can. Make sure they have the camper plugged in so you can run the roof AC unit.

Take pictures or things that do not look right and you want to ask us about.

A 2004 camper is new enough it can be in great shape but if it has been neglected on roof maintenance, it can also be in bad shape. I did not want this reply to scare you off, more of help educate on what to look for as you did ask.

Good luck, hope it is a good one as they are nice campers.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 05-14-2017, 07:26 PM   #3
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That rubber roof thread is great, and the eternabond too. Thanks for posting!
I had no idea that pile of poo sealant used on the roofs came out of a caulk tube
If only I seen it half a dozen years ago with my first camper LoL.
Sadly water issues as well as frame failure finally did that one in and now looking for it's replacement.

This one is at a private residence and was used infrequently as a guest house.
Used so infrequently they are selling it.
They say it was never towed, and by the location where parked I believe it.
It was completely covered in a tarp and I was only able to see the inside (looked good)
The slide was extended and I assume was always left that way (read thats not good)
Need to scratch together enough money for a decent offer and will look it over closely, with special attention to the roof and slide
The floor looked good but will be sure to look again including inside storage areas inside and out
Thanks for all the info!
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Old 05-14-2017, 08:29 PM   #4
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Hi again,

The slide floor, by chance did it have a slide topper on the camper? That might of helped prevent some of the slide floor issue. It is truly a hit and miss thing. It all depends on ones luck. Good luck or bad luck.... Even on mine, the front was rock solid, yet the back was toast. It seems more water flowed off the back of the slide then the front, so odds where higher for the back to get infected and I lost...

This might be a unique find. Never towed, well you at least do not have the road damage that comes from a lot of towing. Generally a lot of dings in the front and some battle scares from hitting something or something hitting you..

Good luck and hope it all works out. That is a nice camper.

PS. The tires are probably still original from 2004. Bring a portable air compressor on moving day. And if they are from 2004, you can check the date codes, if you have very far to go at anywhere close to highway speeds, think about replacement wheels and tires before pick up day. I just bought a 2004 T1950 as a project camper. It still had the original tires, Oct 2003 and it had sat since 2010. We brought new rims and tires as we had 3 hours at highway speeds. Odds where not in may favor, the rims where a rust bucket too so glad we brought all new to change before we went. Etrailer has Dexstar rims which I highly recommend of very good quality if you are looking. Still made in the USA if you can imagine that...

John
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Old 06-13-2017, 05:51 PM   #5
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So, to update. I lost out on that Sunline as well as a few other brands while shopping around. Tired of repeatedly missing out tonight I went prepared. Wad of cash in my pocket, diesel fueled and ready, hitch and brake controller on, threw ladder in back and I was off to check out another candidate.

So


Tonight i dragged home a



01 Sunline



T-267SR


Wasnt shopping for that specific model but guess it was meant to be.
1st shakedown starts this weekend for a week that was planned back in February. (Ole Bull SP)
Excited!
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Old 06-13-2017, 05:56 PM   #6
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Oh, and the slide floor was solid. Roof is ready for seams to be resealed.
Thanks for all the information, it was with me and makes me more comfortable with purchase.
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Old 06-13-2017, 07:13 PM   #7
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Congratulations on your new Sunny!!! And glad it worked out for you.

Glad you found one to your liking and let the adventures begin!!!

We like pics, hint, hint... Some time when your are out camping, take a few and show us. We always like to see Sunlines in action!

Thanks

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Old 06-25-2017, 01:09 PM   #8
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1st trip under the belt, casualties were a broken toilet flush valve (already replaced) the front window cover needs to be re rivited where sections join, and the sun is taking it's toll on the top exposed part of the awning. Trip was good, family liked the extra space and I liked the kids having bunks and being out of my way in the morning when I get up. I took one crappy pic when I was setting up, sadly I didn't have time to even wash it before leaving so here it is with years worth of grime and streaks showing LoL
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Old 06-25-2017, 10:21 PM   #9
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Looks good! The outer black frame of the rock guard is what needs to be riveted? Did the old rivets actually pull out?
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Old 06-27-2017, 11:25 AM   #10
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Yes,more pics please. We have an '01 250-SR ! Same colors I think. We had all of our stripes redone last yr. Love the camper and go to lots of Meet and Greets. Hope you can get to one as they are loads of fun !
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Old 06-27-2017, 04:14 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunline Fan View Post
Looks good! The outer black frame of the rock guard is what needs to be riveted? Did the old rivets actually pull out?
Yes, the outer rock guard frame. I think it is piviting on one rivet on the inner side of where the two sections meet but haven't pulled out a ladder to look closely.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mellow Yellow View Post
Yes,more pics please. We have an '01 250-SR ! Same colors I think. We had all of our stripes redone last yr. Love the camper and go to lots of Meet and Greets. Hope you can get to one as they are loads of fun !
Have to wash it before pics! Will keep an eye out for M&G's
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Old 06-28-2017, 06:25 PM   #12
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Glad to hear your first camping trip went well!

And thanks for the pic! Nice looking camper. I see it has the older style Reese DC. While old, that is still a very good anti sway control unit.

Thanks

John
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Old 06-30-2017, 08:35 PM   #13
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Had no idea what those bars were, thanks for the info. Now I can search for setup info
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Old 06-30-2017, 09:07 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enormiss View Post
Had no idea what those bars were, thanks for the info. Now I can search for setup info
Those bars, are weight distribution bars. In this case they are also part of an anti sway system called the Reese Dual Cam. (DC)

This post with pics helps show on to set up the newer system Reese DC hitch. While the DC part and the hitch head are different, it shows and explains the concepts of setting up the hitch and the DC.

Reese HP Trunnion and Dual Cam Hitch setup

The objective of the weight distribution (WD) hitch is to return much of the weight that is lost on the front axle of the truck when you tow on the ball in the back of the truck. We set the hitch up to accomplish this. The WD hitch also helps keep the truck receiver within the ratings for loaded tongue weight. Unless you have an upgraded truck receiver, many truck receivers need to use a WD hitch to stay within the ratings of the truck receiver.

The objective of the DC associated with the anti sway part of the hitch is, to help reduce sway effects on the truck and camper from large cross winds, fast moving large vehicles passing you, other sway inducing effects on the truck and camper. After all the weight distribution is setup, we adjust the DC to lock the WD bars notches into the cam arms on the camper to create detent lock.

If you can post some pictures of what you have (ideally hitched up on the truck) I can help tailor the explanation for exactly what you have. I only have pics of parts of the older hitch and they made it in a few variations which may be different then what you have.

I did some digging and found online the old Reese instructions for your older DC. See here http://www.truckspring.com/installat...ay-control.pdf

Now to the actual WD hitch, need pics of the hitch itself to know what type you have. They made a lot of them and finding older instructions is getting harder each day. Luckily I remembered the Reese Part number of the older DC. 26001 to find them. There is a lot of info on the newer hitches, just not the older ones.

Also is there a sticker on the WD bars stating a rating for tongue weight? The sticker would look something like this.


Or this


Hope this helps

John
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