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Old 04-07-2015, 07:46 PM   #1
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fridge voltage question

On a T-264SR, is the refrigeator 12V or 120V? noticed the light stays on with the power disconnected leaving the battery hooked up. Question 2, does the truck recharge the battery on the camper when in tow and running? or they seperate?
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Old 04-07-2015, 08:03 PM   #2
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Depends.

They all use 12v for controls. The actual heating unit can be 12v, 120v, or propane. They operate on ammonia and heat absorbtion, not a compressor like your home unit. Most likely yours will operate on 120v or propane. Most have an auto change over that if you lose 120v and the propane is on it will continue to run on propane.
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Old 04-07-2015, 08:21 PM   #3
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Depends.

They all use 12v for controls. The actual heating unit can be 12v, 120v, or propane. They operate on ammonia and heat absorbtion, not a compressor like your home unit. Most likely yours will operate on 120v or propane. Most have an auto change over that if you lose 120v and the propane is on it will continue to run on propane.
ok, i have the auto switch that you are talking about and it can run on propane. Can you lave the propane open and run the fridge in tow?
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Old 04-07-2015, 08:37 PM   #4
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That's one of great debates of all time!!!!

Yes, it can run on propane going down the road. The debate is should you. I do, but stop and shut it off before I pull into a fuel stop. We don't normally travel more than 3 hours so I rarely fuel with the trailer in tow. It will stay cold 2-3 hours without running anyway.

As to your charging question, the trailer is wired for it, but your truck may not be. Someone will be along with more details on this I'm sure. 2004 Dodge with factory tow pkg does.
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Old 04-07-2015, 08:49 PM   #5
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That's one of great debates of all time!!!!

Yes, it can run on propane going down the road. The debate is should you. I do, but stop and shut it off before I pull into a fuel stop. We don't normally travel more than 3 hours so I rarely fuel with the trailer in tow. It will stay cold 2-3 hours without running anyway.

As to your charging question, the trailer is wired for it, but your truck may not be. Someone will be along with more details on this I'm sure. 2004 Dodge with factory tow pkg does.
Yea, I know you can run it, but should you is the question, haha. I have a Ford F350 2015 with the factory tow package, 7-pin. So thats something for me to look into
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Old 04-07-2015, 09:27 PM   #6
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I have a Ford F350 2015 with the factory tow package, 7-pin. So thats something for me to look into
Here is a way to test if everything is working correctly on your charge circuit from the truck to the camper.

1. Since you have the 2004 model, turn off the battery disconnect on the A frame header.

2. Plug the 7 wire cord into the truck receptacle.

3. Start the truck. (must do this as Fords have a relay in the charge line, if truck is not running, no power goes to the 7 wire receptacle)

4. Now turn a light on in or on the camper that you know worked when the battery was connected. Can even be the front hitch light on the camper as long as you know the light worked with the battery.

5. If the light lights, then your charge circuit from the truck to the camper is working as it is supplying the power.

6, If it does not work, then there is camper trouble shooting to do. 1st step is the charge fuse. They bury a 30 amp charge fuse in the black junction box on the front of the A frame next to the disconnect switch. This fuse is to protect the truck and camper from a short on either.

If you have to get into that junction box, let us know. There is a trick to it and a fastener conversion to occur after the 1st time opening it...

The fridge "must" have 12 VDC to run. Once past the 12 volts, then it can run on 120 VAC or LP. 12 VDC runs all the controls. The LP or 120 VAC creates the heat to make the boiler tube work that creates cold in the fridge.

On towing with the fridge on, those on the other side of the debate often use freezer blocks and put them in the fridge so they can tow cold without the fridge on LP.

PS. Many Ford Super Duty trucks come prepped with the charge circuits working on the truck if you have the OEM receiver on the truck from new. If you own a GM, well... you might have to hunt up the big charge fuse they give you with the towing package to plug it in the fuse box under the hood.n I have had both...
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Old 04-07-2015, 09:47 PM   #7
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thanks guys, have a little playing around to do and will report back
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Old 04-08-2015, 11:55 AM   #8
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A point of clarification on my charge test reply.

When I said, check a light inside or on the camper, I meant any light in or on the camper other than a DOT light.

DOT lights, (turn signals, clearance lights, stop lights) are always powered by the truck and not the camper battery. They are on a different wiring circuit in the 7 wire cord then the 12 volt charge line is. .

Point: While your DOT (turns signals etc) may work when the truck is running, that does not mean the charge line to the battery is working. Need to test the charge line off of devices that normally only run on camper 12 volts (battery or power converter)
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Old 04-08-2015, 02:27 PM   #9
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A point of clarification on my charge test reply.

When I said, check a light inside or on the camper, I meant any light in or on the camper other than a DOT light.

DOT lights, (turn signals, clearance lights, stop lights) are always powered by the truck and not the camper battery. They are on a different wiring circuit in the 7 wire cord then the 12 volt charge line is. .

Point: While your DOT (turns signals etc) may work when the truck is running, that does not mean the charge line to the battery is working. Need to test the charge line off of devices that normally only run on camper 12 volts (battery or power converter)
Will do,thanks. tommrow hopefully
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Old 04-09-2015, 09:46 AM   #10
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tested

Its very muddy at my home so I dont want to drive my truck in the yard to hook up the cables yet. Impatiently, I got a 12V tester that hooks to ground, and the probe goes on a postive wire. Tested it on my truck and lit up. So truck is equipped (12V full time line). Then I cut the battery off on the camper, and got my booster. Hooked black (ground) to the frame rail, and red to the probes ground side. Then plugged probe postive side to the postive that co-inlines with the trucks 12V full time line side. Which i assume is a universal system. So I also assume that the fuse on the camper is good to be recieving power, correct? Still when i get a decent day, i will take my truck back in the yard and try it out.
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Old 04-09-2015, 11:16 AM   #11
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Your test procedure is correct of how to apply power. Jump power to the pin in the 7 wire that aligns with the truck charge line and have the ground connected. If you use a test wire in place of the tester, (that can draw some current) then you should be able to fire up a light bulb and mimic the truck being plugged in. I do not know how much current your tester can handle.

Oh, and we have muuuuuuddd here bad too. Been raining the last 3 days and still raining today. Nothing like Ohio clay to get stuck in....

Did I read your note right, your F350 is live on the 7 wire receptacle all the time even with the engine off? If so, that is a change. And need to watch that if you are plugged in the truck over night. A problem in the camper can drain the truck and the camper battery then. My 05 F350 has a relay, the truck has to be running to be live at the charge line. My 2003 GM Suburban, was live all the time.
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Old 04-09-2015, 12:01 PM   #12
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Your test procedure is correct of how to apply power. Jump power to the pin in the 7 wire that aligns with the truck charge line and have the ground connected. If you use a test wire in place of the tester, (that can draw some current) then you should be able to fire up a light bulb and mimic the truck being plugged in. I do not know how much current your tester can handle.

Oh, and we have muuuuuuddd here bad too. Been raining the last 3 days and still raining today. Nothing like Ohio clay to get stuck in....

Did I read your note right, your F350 is live on the 7 wire receptacle all the time even with the engine off? If so, that is a change. And need to watch that if you are plugged in the truck over night. A problem in the camper can drain the truck and the camper battery then. My 05 F350 has a relay, the truck has to be running to be live at the charge line. My 2003 GM Suburban, was live all the time.
Correction, Live with the ignition on. Off when ignitiion is off
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Old 04-09-2015, 09:17 PM   #13
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Correction, Live with the ignition on. Off when ignitiion is off
OK got it. Ford did not change anything
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