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Old 08-20-2017, 06:31 PM   #1
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2003 T-330SR furnace issue

Does anyone know how the gas valve comes out , I can't figure it out..
The problem is the heater is trying to ignite and after 3 tries it shuts down , I hear the ignitor ticking and I'm assuming the gas valve is not opening ..
Any info would be great..

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Old 08-21-2017, 07:06 AM   #2
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Anyone??

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Old 08-21-2017, 05:25 PM   #3
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There are two things that have to happen before the gas valve will open one is air flow (sail switch) the other is over temp switch must be closed ( most likely is). Beyond that is the control board. It needs a good flow of air to close the sail switch have you tried it plugged into the house/campground? A low battery can cause issues.
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Old 08-21-2017, 05:30 PM   #4
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There are two things that have to happen before the gas valve will open one is air flow (sail switch) the other is over temp switch must be closed ( most likely is). Beyond that is the control board. It needs a good flow of air to close the sail switch have you tried it plugged into the house/campground? A low battery can cause issues.
I have it plugged in , it always stays plugged in as I have it as a seasonal at a campground...the blower is blowing strong cold air, that's why I'm assuming it's the gas valve and it was working a few weeks ago then I had to go give the gas A good tap and it worked again , now the shot to the gas valve isn't working

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Old 08-21-2017, 05:44 PM   #5
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The circuit board opens the gas valve after the safety have been satisfied as Mainah explained. It could be gas valve but I find they rarely fail. If the furnace is dirty it won't ignite, or the circuit board could fail to supply power to the gas valve. Either way the furnace probably needs to come out to bench test. You didnt say brand or model but alot of boards aren't accessible without pulling the furnace.
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Old 08-21-2017, 05:50 PM   #6
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The circuit board opens the gas valve after the safety have been satisfied as Mainah explained. It could be gas valve but I find they rarely fail. If the furnace is dirty it won't ignite, or the circuit board could fail to supply power to the gas valve. Either way the furnace probably needs to come out to bench test. You didnt say brand or model but alot of boards aren't accessible without pulling the furnace.
Gary G
Sorry it's atwood and I've checked as far as having power going to the solonoids on the has valve

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Old 08-22-2017, 05:11 AM   #7
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If you're sure you have power and ground to the gas valve, then the circuit board should be ok. you can pull the valve out with the burner assembly. Youll need to unfasten the burner from the chamber, disconnect lp line and wiring. Check to make sure the orifice in the burner is not plugged also. If you're unsure of this, get professional help. Don't take chances with your safety.
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Old 08-22-2017, 07:04 AM   #8
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If you're sure you have power and ground to the gas valve, then the circuit board should be ok. you can pull the valve out with the burner assembly. Youll need to unfasten the burner from the chamber, disconnect lp line and wiring. Check to make sure the orifice in the burner is not plugged also. If you're unsure of this, get professional help. Don't take chances with your safety.
Gary G
I am ok with doing it myself , just wish I could find the correct way to remove it all...i disconnected the gas valve the other day but was unsure how to remove it so I just put it back together...

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Old 08-22-2017, 07:05 AM   #9
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The gas valve should open with a fairly good "clunk" just before the burner lights. They a pretty dependable.
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Old 08-22-2017, 07:07 AM   #10
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The gas valve should open with a fairly good "clunk" just before the burner lights.
If that is the case then it's definitely not opening ...i hear the solonoid click and I have power there but no action from the gas valve

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Old 08-22-2017, 02:29 PM   #11
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Hi,

I am on bad connection and about out of signal but this may help.

These 2 posts have many of my 2004 Atwood Hydroflame furnace which should be the same as your 2003 model. It shows how the gas valve coming out of the furnace.

You said you hear the igniter clicking, this means the safeties are met or it would not try and ignite even and yes the gas valve makes a loud clunk.

If you pull the burner out, you can bench test the valve with hot wiring 12 volts. Be careful not to bounce the ceramic insulator on the igniter

Scroll all the pages of these 2 posts, the pics are in there and can help the other helpers see what you have. I may not be back on line for a while

Furnace Ignition Fault

Atwood Furnace

Hope this helps

John
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Old 08-22-2017, 02:35 PM   #12
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Hi,

I am on bad connection and about out of signal but this may help.

These 2 posts have many of my 2004 Atwood Hydroflame furnace which should be the same as your 2003 model. It shows how the gas valve coming out of the furnace.

You said you hear the igniter clicking, this means the safeties are met or it would not try and ignite even and yes the gas valve makes a loud clunk.

If you pull the burner out, you can bench test the valve with hot wiring 12 volts. Be careful not to bounce the ceramic insulator on the igniter

Scroll all the pages of these 2 posts, the pics are in there and can help the other helpers see what you have. I may not be back on line for a while

Furnace Ignition Fault

Atwood Furnace

Hope this helps

John
Thanks I'm gonna check this out now so when I go back up to camp it will be burnt into my memory because I have no cell service at all up there

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Old 08-22-2017, 03:57 PM   #13
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Try not to get in above your pay grade propane gas can go boom.
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Old 08-22-2017, 04:03 PM   #14
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Try not to get in above your pay grade propane gas can go boom.
I totally understand that, but I do most of my own work on everything I own I'm pretty handy not the suit and tie job kinda guy...if I don't feel I can do it i would not even attempt it ...
I usually just ask alot of questions

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