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Old 08-22-2017, 05:15 PM   #21
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I hear you I was and basically still am in the fixit game and after all these years I'm pretty comfortable with anything up to 480 triple phase!
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Old 08-23-2017, 08:24 AM   #22
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I had a the same issue with a unit I looked at in May. The gas valve did not open even though the trailer was plugged into shore power. The igniter would come on but no gas. I got checking the power to the furnace and it was only 12.5 volts. Should be up around 13.5V if the converter is putting out enough juice. I replaced the weak converter and presto the gas valve on the furnace worked fine.
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Old 08-23-2017, 09:09 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by sparksolaris View Post
I had a the same issue with a unit I looked at in May. The gas valve did not open even though the trailer was plugged into shore power. The igniter would come on but no gas. I got checking the power to the furnace and it was only 12.5 volts. Should be up around 13.5V if the converter is putting out enough juice. I replaced the weak converter and presto the gas valve on the furnace worked fine.
I'll have to check that before I go any deeper with changing the gas valve..

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Old 08-27-2017, 10:35 PM   #24
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I'm an electrician by trade so I work on alot of furnaces and boilers..not on any RVs so I had the basics to check...just getting that gas valve out is what gets me
Hi,

I'm back from camping, yeh!!!!

By chance, do you have a clamp on DC amp probe? (they do make them) If the coil is pulling current, then the control board is working and so is the valve coil but the valve may be corroded stuck. If you do not have one, OK no problem get the VOM out.

An ohm check on the coil can help too, obviously if an open circuit on the coil , it's toast. As to what ohms should that coil be, check the ohms on the Atwood hot water heater. The Atwood furnace gas valve and the HW heater valve coils are darn close to the same. Since you are an industrial electrician see this. Go to page 25. It talks about the ohms reading on the dual coil setup what is good and bad. This is a link to the 2003 Atwood service manual.
http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/hflamefurn04.pdf

The 03 manual says the valve will work down to 10.5 volts and draw no more then 0.48 amps at the lower voltage. 10.5 on the battery is pretty darn close to dead.

The furnace wiring diagram is on page 10

And here is the 2007 manual. It also has all your other Atwood units in there too. http://manuals.adventurerv.net/Atwoo...nuals-2007.pdf

Bad grounds on the coil can be a culprit too.

If you need to do a main tank regulator check for pressure drop, set point and regulator lock up, this post can help. If you do not have a manometer, you can make one.

http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f7...cks-10981.html

Let us know how you make out. The controls on these furnaces or any of the other appliances are right out of the late 70's technology. I feel right at home on the troubleshooting with any of the controls in the camper.... OK, I'm dating myself... Not really super hi tech, but they do work and work well when everything is not corroded or worn out.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 08-28-2017, 06:58 AM   #25
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I'm going back to camp in 2 days and I will report back when I return

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Old 09-01-2017, 01:10 PM   #26
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Maybe the issue ???


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Old 09-01-2017, 03:15 PM   #27
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I'm no expert so you might want a second opinion but I think it's probably fubared!
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Old 09-01-2017, 03:31 PM   #28
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I'm no expert so you might want a second opinion but I think it's probably fubared!
Yeah just went for a hour and half ride 1 way to camping world and they didn't have it in stock , will be in on Tuesday

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Old 09-01-2017, 06:00 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by sthill View Post
Maybe the issue ???
That is "an issue" and yes replace it as I 'm thinking the gas mixing is not right.

However that does not explain the gas valve not working or at least it was thought it was not working. I would do the ohm test on the coils as the manual I linked stated and also hot wire 12 volts DC to it to make sure the valve works before putting the new burner in.

When you where trying to get the furnace to light, did you smell raw LP coming out the exhaust? While it might not ignite with the burnt out screen, the smell one would think is still there, if the valve was opening.

We never got the early part of what you saw or smelt just asking how to get the gas valve out as it would not fire off but you heard the igniter clicking. You might have 2 issues as the same time.

Hope this helps and keep us posted. My camper is about as old as yours and I use the furnace a fair amount. I have not had the burnt out screen yet. At least that I know of it.

John
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Old 09-03-2017, 09:47 AM   #30
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That is "an issue" and yes replace it as I 'm thinking the gas mixing is not right.

However that does not explain the gas valve not working or at least it was thought it was not working. I would do the ohm test on the coils as the manual I linked stated and also hot wire 12 volts DC to it to make sure the valve works before putting the new burner in.

When you where trying to get the furnace to light, did you smell raw LP coming out the exhaust? While it might not ignite with the burnt out screen, the smell one would think is still there, if the valve was opening.

We never got the early part of what you saw or smelt just asking how to get the gas valve out as it would not fire off but you heard the igniter clicking. You might have 2 issues as the same time.

Hope this helps and keep us posted. My camper is about as old as yours and I use the furnace a fair amount. I have not had the burnt out screen yet. At least that I know of it.

John
Responding quick in town for a little while , there is 2 problems, the burner and gas valve...there is no smell coming out or gas ...

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Old 09-03-2017, 08:53 PM   #31
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Responding quick in town for a little while , there is 2 problems, the burner and gas valve...there is no smell coming out or gas ...
OK, got it. Yup, that adds up right about now. You found the burn't up screen while hunting for the lack of gas valve flow.

Let us know what you find.

Thanks

John
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Old 09-17-2017, 12:16 PM   #32
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OK, got it. Yup, that adds up right about now. You found the burn't up screen while hunting for the lack of gas valve flow.

Let us know what you find.

Thanks

John
Ok so i was at it again this weekend , changed the gas valve and the burner fired up the furnace and I hear it light ...sweet thought I had it ...think again...
It fired up was blowing hot air and then shut down...it tried to light 3 times and each time I heard it light up and shut down ..then i got the light on the circuit board 3 flashes with. 3 sec pause...
Ignition lockout fault...
Now I am at a loss and don't know what to do ..
Any other ideas would be helpful..hunting season is coming and I need this heat..the 2 electric heaters will not keep this camper warm enough in the winter months!!

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Old 09-17-2017, 01:34 PM   #33
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Make sure the electrodes are positioned correctly over the burner. If they don't sense the flame is lit the board will shut off the gas flow. Also light a couple stove burners to see if the flame drops as the furnace tried to light. You may not have enough flow. Make sure the intake and exhaust are not plugged with anything and the blower wheel that feeds the intake air is clear. A wasp nest in there will cause havoc.
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Old 09-17-2017, 01:45 PM   #34
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Make sure the electrodes are positioned correctly over the burner. If they don't sense the flame is lit the board will shut off the gas flow. Also light a couple stove burners to see if the flame drops as the furnace tried to light. You may not have enough flow. Make sure the intake and exhaust are not plugged with anything and the blower wheel that feeds the intake air is clear. A wasp nest in there will cause havoc.
Gary G
I cleaned out everything I could when I had the burner and gas valve out..
The blower seems to be spinning free and clear..
I'm assuming the electrode is positioned correctly , was very gentle with it when I put it all back together

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Old 09-17-2017, 05:25 PM   #35
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How long does the burner stay lit before you hear it go out? If you take the circuit board to a dealer they should be able to put it on a tester to see if the flame sensor circuit is working.
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Old 09-17-2017, 05:50 PM   #36
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How long does the burner stay lit before you hear it go out? If you take the circuit board to a dealer they should be able to put it on a tester to see if the flame sensor circuit is working.
Not very long, I hear it light feel the hot air then it's off and does that 3 times before I get the ignition lockout fault

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Old 09-17-2017, 06:00 PM   #37
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Sounds to me that the circuit board is not sensing the flame. So either the electrodes or the circuit board itself is faulty.
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Old 09-17-2017, 06:04 PM   #38
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Well I'm gonna have to check again when I get up Thursday night...this is driving me nuts...this camper has been trouble free for the last 5 years that I've owned it...

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Old 09-18-2017, 06:00 AM   #39
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Dinosaur boards, goto their website visually find your board they are the best.
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Old 09-18-2017, 10:36 AM   #40
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I'm thinking the same thoughts as ggrvguy is. Here is a recap of the list with some added context.

1. Make sure the burner area is clean. And as far into the heat chamber as a flash light can see. Sounds like you did this.

2. The spark gap on the electrode is supposed to be in the 1/8" distance range. Do you recall this? Also make sure the porcelain insulator is not cracked.

3. The flame sense has to be working right. This could be where your issue is. Remember the basic electricity rule of thumb that it takes 10,000 volts to jump an inch. The flame sense circuit works on a millivolt signal feed back coming from the heated electrode. When the flame is burning, it heats the metal electrode and sends this millivolt signal back to the PC board for a flame sense feedback. While the ignition voltage can jump and burn through a semi bad connection, the flame sense feedback may not make it back through a rusted or bad connection. Check the wire connection on the electrode, is it a good connection? And check back at the PC board.

4. Assuming you made it through the 3 above, it sort of points to the PC board having issues. If the flame sense feedback is not working, it will go into ignition fault all the time which sounds like what you have going on.

Here is something to "listen" to. While outside, when the burner fires off, does it stay burning "all" the time until the gas valve clunk shuts off? Meaning, the gas valve is working, the igniter is working, the roaring sound of a correct burn is working, but all the burning stops when the gas valve shuts back down. If a good burn stops and starts with the gas valve, then the flame sense may not have been made and the control board shuts the burner back down. If the burner is sputtering during the entire burn cycle then something may be wrong in the electrode or burner area not allowing a correct burn.

You need to sort out if the burn is good or not and then if the burn is good, this point to the flame sense may be the problem.

Hope this helps and report back findings.

John
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