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Old 01-28-2007, 04:03 PM   #1
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Ray and Lynn from PA
What Hitch and Sway Control Do You Prefer

We aren't picking up our new Sunline 195SR until March so we have the time to decide what kind of hitch is the best set up for our TT. The dealer that we bought it from will hook us up for $450. That includes a Reese weight distribution hitch and a single friction bar. We are familiar with the Friction sway control as its the same as we had on our popup. I've been reading up on these and it seems people like the dual cam hitch setup. I believe that includes a sway control built in and you can back up with it attached. I am leaning toward something like this because it was always a pain to have to remove the friction say contral every time we would back up into a campsite. But if this is equally as effective for the size of our TT, we'll stick with what our dealer wants to install. Also is there a huge cost differenc between the two? The TT weighs 4,730 as it sits. Is there anything else we should be asking for? Thanks for any input!!
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Old 01-28-2007, 04:42 PM   #2
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Hi Ray and Lynn,

I've used the same Draw Tite hitch and sway control since 1996 and it has worked great.

Good luck in your decision. You are lucky to have one of 22 very rare Sunline's.

Jon
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Old 01-28-2007, 06:07 PM   #3
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I have a Reese WD hitch and a Reese dual cam sway control, both do a great the job for me.
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Old 01-28-2007, 06:40 PM   #4
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I have the equalizer and am very happy with it, weight and sway in one.
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Old 01-29-2007, 04:26 AM   #5
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Good Morning,

My personal opinion on sway control is to upgrade to the dual cam since your getting the reese weight distrubition hitch. I do know what the friction bar is supposed to do, but it is also a matter of "whether you have it tight enough", you must remove it for "most" backing up. You have a lot of hard earned money invested in your rig, and even with great insurance, you currently "can't" replace your Sunline with another one. Yes, it's a few bucks more, but tell your dealer to upgrade your hitch and forget about the friction sway control. I am not bashing friction bars as I used one for 5 years, BUT it was on a 1987 T-1660 Sunline with a loaded weight of 2660 lbs.

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Old 01-29-2007, 07:32 AM   #6
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I've got a Reese dual cam knock-off made by Valley Industries and love it. The trailer tracks true right behind my truck. Typically I don't take it off until the trailer is safely parked. Set-up is a snap - even my wife has done it!
I used a friction control on a pop-up a few years ago (we toured with the pop-up while leaving the Sunline behind) and saw an immense difference in sway control too, but I think you'd be better off with a dual cam or equivalent device on a larger trailer. Adding a dual cam to your Reese W/D bar shouldn't be too difficult to do.
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Old 01-29-2007, 07:54 PM   #7
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After doing a lot of research on WDH's and Anto Sway Devices, we decided to go with the Equal-I-Zer hitch. The Equal-I-Zer provides both weight distribution and four point sway control. We have towed over 6,000 miles with this hitch and have been very happy with it. Check it out on the Equal-I-Zer website.
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Old 01-29-2007, 09:58 PM   #8
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Ray and Lynn

I can't find your camper. That model number seems different. So I can't help on the tongue weights/length of the camper to help guide you better and I do not know what truck you are using. These are all factors to help make the decision. But in general;

The Dual Cam is superior to the friction sway bar. Not a little bit, but a lot a bit. And yes it does cost a little more. The friction sway bar can be $85 and the HP Dual cam is $175 in raw part cost not mounted. The $90 difference is not much but the performance is many times fold. See here, I did not make this up.
http://www.reese-hitches.com/sway_co...htm#Dual%20Cam The dealer may charge more to install the DC, maybe. But it is still better system. The words over kill, and don't need it, do not help much when comparing the little cost to what you paid for that nice camper and bad towing conditons get thrown at you

A properly balanced TT with good tongue weight, 12 to 15% of the GVW should not sway with no anti sway device just driving down the open road on a claim day no body around. Regardless of which anti-sway system, it is a must to have your TT balanced right and your weight distribution (WD) setup correctly.

The dual cam does offer the benefits of not having to take the sway bar off, yes but that is not the justifying reason. When towing bad situations get thrown your way, camper hit a rut on the side of the road, the jerk pulls out in front of you and makes you swerve, the tour bus fly’s by you at 80 MPH, the bad down hill turn, etc. the DC will be there to help keep you straight better than the friction sway. Hands down given the same situation. There is no argument. Again for $90 is component price cost. You can even call Reese Technical service free and ask that exact question. Which is better?

I'm not bashing the friction sway; it has its place on low tongue weight campers where the DC will not work.

I will pass this along as well. A lot of dealers do not know the proper way to set up the Reese DC. I'm not saying ALL, but most I have found. Most do not take the time to optimize the setup and even if they do set up any WD hitch with the camper empty the day you hook it up, after you load it with gear, it needs adjustment again to be optimized in setup.

I can help you if you need to on how to optimize the Reese HP DC. Once explained to you, it is not that hard and then offers good anti sway and is easy to use. The same goes for any brand WD hitch. The famou "just take up a link' story some dealers give you does not do justice on the proper way and reasons on how to set up your WD hitch. Regardless of what brand you buy, educate your self on the proper way to setup and adjust the hitch.

You can see below some pics of mine on my 2004, T2499. Sunline changed the tongue frame in 2005 so the new ones will be slightly different. It was also mentioned about the Equal-I-zer brand hitch. Make sure it is that exact brand name by Progress Mfg. They are a good hitch as well. A lot of people nick name any brand WD hitch an equalizer hitch.

Hope this helps and glad to help more if needed.

John

Pic on truck:


Close up of setup on 2004 T2499.


Top view:
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Old 01-30-2007, 06:54 AM   #9
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Thanks for the Information!

We will definately purchase the Reese DC or the Equalizer. Our dealer doesn't carry the Equalizer brand but a dealer down the road from him does. I am going to read as much as possible about the Reese DC as I have a feeling our dealer may not have the expertise in this area. Thank you JohnB! I will be asking you more questions for sure. I don't know what our tongue weight is. There are no brochures on our TT as there were only 22 made. It is 2 foot longer than the 195 and has a slideout. The weight inside the medicine cabinet says 4,730. We have a V8 4Runner with towing package rated to tow 7,000. Thanks again for the information!
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Old 01-30-2007, 07:45 PM   #10
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Ray and Lynn

Glad to help if I can, just ask.

Here are some things to sort thru as you research the Reese DC and Equal-I-zer. Like was said both are good hitches. Personally I prefer the Reese HP high performance trunnion style hitch with the HP DC better do to the mechanical action of the DC over the high constant friction system of the Equal-I-zer, but both will serve you well when set up properly.

Here is a heads up. Tongue weight. You really need to know this before you buy either hitch. And ideally you need to know or estimate the “loaded” with camper gear tongue weight. And know if filling the fresh water tank to tow with will add or subtract from tongue weight.

On the Equal-I-zer they make the hitch heads and spring bars in certain sizes. If you estimate too light, you have to re-buy the entire hitch. That is just the way they make them.

On the Reese Trunnion style system, the HP hitch head, DC, snap up brackets are all rated to handle up to 1,700# tongue load. They offer 600,800, 1,200 and the monster 1,700# bars that fit that hitch. If you make an error and say buy 800# bars, and find you have a 1,000# tongue, then you only have to upgrade the spring bars to go to 1,200# bars.

You can also ask your dealer if they will upgrade the bars/hitch if you find you are too light. But ask that before buying.

Regardless of brands you need to know which one to get. When Sunline was in business you could call them, ask what is the tongue weight with full propane, battery and options for your camper VIN number. And then what is it with filled water? Then ask what would they think the tongue weight would be if I added 1,000# of camping gear to it? Sunline would give you these numbers based on their weighing at the factory and knowing how the TT was made.

Since they are not there to call, have to use plan B. The next best way now is to have your dealer weigh the tongue itself on a tongue scale with a battery and full propane. And then ask them to fill the fresh tank and get that weight too. In the price of a new camper this is not much work for them to do.

It is a very good idea to buy yourself one of these tongue weight scales. http://www.sherline.com/lm.htm I have one and they work well and you know exactly where you stand in your own yard as you load your camper. Cost ~ $120 delivered to your door. Every dealer should just give you one on a new camper and explain how to use it. It plays a big part in helping to balance out your rig.

Once you know the scaled tongue with and with out water, now you have to estimate where your tongue weight will land when you load it.

It is not unheard of for a tongue to gain 350 to 550# or more of tongue weight after loading. It all depends on the TT layout. But you would add this to the known scaled weight to size up spring bars.

If you need help with this, just tell us about the layout. Is it like any of the models on the Sunline site? If so which one is closest so we can go find it.

Point in all this, unless you know your tongue weight and a fair estimate where it will be loaded, you could buy a spring bar set too light or way to heavy.

The absolute best way to do this is to load the camper the way you camper with it, and then weight it. Then there is no guessing. But that is not allways doable as you do not own it yet.

The worst that can happen is, you buy an 800# system and you end up with a 900# tongue once loaded, now your hitch is overloaded. And do not buy a 1,200# system for a 750# tongue either. The ride will be so stiff it is not pleasant.

Since Sunline is now out, your dealer should need to help here get you actual scaled weights. My dealer looked up the “dry” weight in the catalog, saw 750# listed and gave me 800# bars. He told me I would be fine. Lots of safety factor. I know to never trust that again. My loaded tongue weight was 1,200# no water and 1,400# with water.

After researching this to death and contacting Sunline, I re-balanced my camper and upgraded to 1,200# bars. Now have 975# (14.5%) loaded no water and 1,150# (16%) with water. But it took work to get there.

Hopefully I can help at least 1 person not go through this.

PS. Another reason to know your loaded tongue weight is to check the receiver on your truck that it is rated in weight distributing mode to handle that tongue weight.

Good luck

John
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Old 01-31-2007, 03:20 PM   #11
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JohnB,Nice pictures and thanks for the link to the tongue scale page. Chris.
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Old 01-31-2007, 04:42 PM   #12
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Ray & Linn,

As several folks have said, a dual cam or Equal-i-zer are best because they offer much more sway control than a friction. I have and favor the Equal-i-zer. You can get one for less than that $450 and it is a big improvement over just a friction sway control.
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