Sunline RV Forum
Sunline User Photos

Go Back   Sunline Coach Owner's Club > Technical Forums > Towing and Tow Vehicles
Click Here to Login

Join Sunline Club Forums Today


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 01-23-2018, 08:27 PM   #1
Senior Member
 
Thomascine's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Virginia
Posts: 638
SUN #8893
Thomascine is an unknown quantity at this point
Towing with a 2002 GMC Envoy

Good evening,

Time to start thinking about getting our Sunny ready to tow.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB View Post
Does your Envoy have 4 wheel drive or 2 wheel drive?
I have a 4 wheel drive. It actually has 4 different settings: 2HI, A4WD, 4HI, 4LO.

Is yours the shorter one or the XL longer one?
I have the shorter one.


By any chance do you know the rear axle ratio? If not take a picture of all the RPO codes in the glove compartment and we can figure it out. There is a sticker there with a boat load of 3 digit number codes, one for just about every item in the truck. It's a GM thing and helpful.
I looked this up a while back to be sure and I believe the code indicates that it is the middle ratio = 3.73 which is about right according to the sticker.

Do you know the ball height of the camper? Means with the camper on flat ground, the distance from the ground up to the top of the ball coupler with the camper parallel to the ground or level if the parking spot is level. I suspect this camper had a low ball height. Maybe 16 or 17" and that can affect which WD hitch can fit and not hit the ground.
About 16 inches.
Thanks for all the help.

Tommie
Attached Images
File Type: jpg TV Information2.jpg (144.3 KB, 15 views)
File Type: jpg Tow Rating.jpg (126.1 KB, 11 views)
File Type: jpg Glove Box Codes.jpg (50.5 KB, 15 views)
__________________

__________________
1987 Sunline T1550
2002 GMC Envoy SLE, 4.2L I6, 4WD, 3.73 Axle Ratio, 5750 GVWR

"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones you did do..." Mark Twain]
Thomascine is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-23-2018, 11:41 PM   #2
Moderator
 
JohnB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 9,385
SUN #89
JohnB is an unknown quantity at this point
Tommie,

You have done really well!! Hands down you have been doing some great digging and research. Wow!!! Good for you sorting through all these towing numbers.

Up until a year ago we had the Chevy version of your truck. A 2003 Trailblazer LT, 4 x 4, the shorter one and we bought new. It's still in the family... They are a great vehicle.

Let's look at the towing pieces of your truck and how they stack up against your camper. I typed this out so you can see where it all comes from. You can adjust as needed when you know actual weights.

Truck Empty Weight: From your door sticker you have a 1,056# payload against a 5,750# GVWR. This means the truck weighs, 5,750 - 1,056 = 4,694# GVW with no cargo as a good estimate.

Camper loaded TW estimate The non optioned T1550 has a dry GVW of 1,950# with a 230# dry TW. Sunline created a 11.8% dry TW which is good as a start for stable towing. The TW with that floor plan will rise when filled. Going to a higher end, if filled the camper to capacity and ended up with 15% TW on a full camper weight that is, 3,000# * 0.15 = 450#

Starting with 230# dry TW, adding LP gas (assuming it has 1, 20# cylinder) and battery is approx. 301#. With cargo in side, maybe 375 to 400# might be a loaded tongue weight. Maybe a little more or less, don't know until you weigh it.

Let's assume the camper has a 400# loaded TW as a place to start. This is a good estimate to start with. It would be 13.3% loaded TW if you loaded to 3,000# and the 15% is at 450#.

Truck Pulling Performance First we need to make an estimate at what cargo you will add to the truck. I'm going to estimate at 500# for 1 adult, 1 child, camping gear that would go in the truck and 50# for part of a WD hitch. You can adjust this to actuals.

Your GCWR is 10,500# - 4,694# empty truck weight, - 3,000# fully loaded camper - 500# truck cargo = 2,306# extra pulling capacity. This extra pulling capacity is about 22% and is your reserve power factor for the large frontal area of the camper and hills. This looks good.

Truck GVWR check Now let's make sure we are not over the truck GVWR with the camper hitched and truck cargo. A 4,694# empty truck weight + 500# truck cargo + 400# loaded TW = 5,594#

Your GVWR is 5,750# - 5,594# GVW = 156# remaining truck weight capacity. This is not a lot, but it is under and is acceptable. Just watch you do not accidently overload the truck with gear. This also assumed the truck was not using a WD hitch. The truck was carrying 100% of the loaded TW.

Truck Receiver Check From your receiver picture, your truck hitch capacity is 400# in weight carrying mode and 912# in weight distributing mode. You are right on the edge of receiver capacity with a 400# loaded camper TW.

Rear Axle Capacity The only rating left to check is the rear axle capacity check. The door sticker shows a GAWR-RR of 3,200#. I have to see if I can track down the loaded rear axle weight estimate with your cargo and rear overhang on the truck. I found this which helps some of the info but the rear overhang info it listed as TBD. https://www.thecarconnection.com/spe...02_4dr-4wd-slt.

Maybe when you get a moment you can measure your rear overhang on your truck. I need the distance from the center of the rear tire, straight back to the end of the 2" receiver pin box where the trailer hitch would go. To do this, place a board or other straight edge on the ground behind the truck with the edge lined up to the end of the 2" receiver pin box. Have the board hang out to the side of the truck. Then use a tape measure and find the distance from the center of the rear tire to the edge of the board at the 2" pin box. I will use this to show how much added weight the rear axle will load up with a 400# TW in weight carrying mode. It will be a lot higher then the 400# of TW due to the long lever effect.

Truck and camper line up So short of the rear axle check, your numbers line up OK. Your close on the GVWR, but you can watch that and manage to it.

Other towing items Next topic is towing mirrors and a brake controller. Do you have them yet? Need any help with either?

A WD hitch And last but not least, do to need a WD hitch? As you can see above, a number of things add to this decision. You are right on the edge of needing one with a loaded camper. With your camper empty and not much in the truck, you most likely will be able get by without a WD hitch. The issue will come when you load the camper and put some needed camping gear in the truck and then you may need a WD hitch.

We will hold off for the moment on a hard line decision needing a WD hitch until ether we can sort out the rear axle check or you can get fully loaded rear axle weights. I will say this, even at a 375 to 400# loaded TW, your truck with the soft rear suspension will ride smoother and feel less bobbing up and down with a WD hitch in place that is sized and adjusted correctly.

Since you are so close, I will show you "some" WD hitches I tracked down that are options if you need to use one. In the case of your camper, you do not want one way too big for it. Having a large excess load capacity spring bar may hurt the camper A frame and create a real rough ride in the truck. You need a WD hitch capable of the loaded TW but not lots over. I found several WD hitches that are 250 to 400# and then several in the 400 to 600 lb ragnes. The ideal would be a 300 to 500# and that would cover this setup very nice. I'm still looking at a few others to see if they are good match. A WD hitch rated above 600# I feel is too much for the camper A frame.

One thing to point out, with your 16" ball height that is low. The WD hitch has to be high enough up on the A frame so it will not drag the ground. This sort of eliminates many of the round bar WD hitches as they hang down pretty far from the tow ball area and can bump when the truck back end bounces or goes into a small hole/depression. It will take a lot more measuring of the round bar hitch brand specific to see if they would work. 16" is almost a no go on a round bar hitch.

Reese. They have 2 light weight models. Reese - Light-Duty WD
It is a fairly new product and both have integrated anti sway in the hitch. This is a trunnion bar hitch. They have lifetime warranties.

The Reese Steadi Flex 250- 400# rated WD hitch. https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Dist...ese/66557.html

The Reese Steadi Flex 400-600# rated WD hitch
https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Dist...e/RP66558.html

The Equal-I-zer WD hitch. https://www.equalizerhitch.com/how-equalizer-works This model has been around a long time. It also has integrated anti sway in the hitch. This is a trunnion bar hitch. They have lifetime warranties.

Their 200-400# WD hitch https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Dist...EQ37040ET.html

Their 400-600# WD hitch https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Dist...EQ37060ET.html

The Husky TS WD hitch. This is fairly new and they only offer 1 in this series in the smaller series. This hitch has integrated anti sway built in. It is a trunnion bar hitch. They have a 1 year warranty.

The Husky Centerline TS WD hitch 400 - 600# https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Dist...y/HT32215.html

The Camco EAZ Recurve WH hitch. https://www.eaz-lift.com/product-pag...00lb-hitch-kit This is a new hitch for them and is a round bar hitch but the WD bars are on top and not on the bottom. They have a 5 year warranty.

They have a 400# model but it seems to be special order and may take 3 - 4 weeks. Some dealer may have this if this is the one picked
Eaz Lift 48750 Recurve R3 Trunion Bar - 400 lbs.

They have a 600# model that is readily available
Eaz Lift 48751 Recurve R3 Trunion Bar - 600 lbs.

You can look on Craigslist for sometimes good deals on used ones in good shape. As long as they are not all rusted up and not abused, they should be OK. If you find one, post or PM pics before you buy we can look at it. I picked online stores I have bought from in the past with a positive experience and to give you a price reference. Feel free to shop around just remember look at the freight as this is all steel they are shipping. Some are free and others not.

Ideally you know your fully loaded TW before you pick. I would estimate the 400# would be good for your setup and is where I would start. The 600# is on the big side and has other concerns we can get into if you have to go this way.

As to the brand, all the ones I listed are good. For me it would be a toss up between the Reese and the Equal-I-zer.

This is a lot to absorb I know. Look it over and ask questions.

Hope this helps

John
__________________

__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR - Fern Blue, 2004 T1950 - Fern Blue, 2004 T2475 - Nutmeg
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
JohnB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2018, 07:34 AM   #3
Senior Member
 
Thomascine's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Virginia
Posts: 638
SUN #8893
Thomascine is an unknown quantity at this point
Thanks JohnB!

I think my head is about to explode! I will take a look at these. I am not sure what the trailer shop carries or if they would install something that they did not sell. I can always ask. I just finished talking to Amy and she said she can help me with the trim on Saturday so maybe I can start working on the seals this weekend.

Quote:
Other towing items Next topic is towing mirrors and a brake controller. Do you have them yet? Need any help with either?
Right now, all I have are strap on towing mirrors.

Brake controller - I do have one. It is a low-end model (CURT 51110 Venturer Brake Control) but better than nothing. I added the pig-tail about a year ago. I just have not mounted the brake controller in the Envoy but it should be ready to go.

Thanks,
Tommie
__________________
Thomascine is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2018, 12:00 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
Thomascine's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Virginia
Posts: 638
SUN #8893
Thomascine is an unknown quantity at this point
Quote:
Starting with 230# dry TW, adding LP gas (assuming it has 1, 20# cylinder) and battery is approx. 301#. With cargo in side, maybe 375 to 400# might be a loaded tongue weight. Maybe a little more or less, don't know until you weigh it.
I am glad this came up now and not later. I was looking at a dual propane tank setup the other day. I may have to rethink some of my plans. Since it is "only" an additional 20#, I may still add it or I may just wait until after our first or second camping adventure and then decide on it.

On another note, I have a friend that is considering selling their 2000 Ford F150 Triton V8. It was the actual vehicle used to pick up the Sunny from Maryland and brought it back to VA. So much to consider.

Quote:
Truck Pulling Performance First we need to make an estimate at what cargo you will add to the truck. I'm going to estimate at 500# for 1 adult, 1 child, camping gear that would go in the truck and 50# for part of a WD hitch. You can adjust this to actuals.
2 adults (the kid is 22 yo) approximately 285# combined weight.

Thanks,
Tommie
__________________
Thomascine is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2018, 01:51 PM   #5
Moderator
 
JohnB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 9,385
SUN #89
JohnB is an unknown quantity at this point
Hi Tommie,

Sorry, didn't mean to overload you... I took the time to help explain what to look for so you can better understand. All those vehicle checks are listed in the fine print in the truck owners manual and other towing information pamphlets, but if you have never been through it before, it is hard sometimes to figure out what to even look for. Once through it, it does not take that long to check each item to find the weak areas.

The WD hitch and your trailer shop. You can ask them if they have a small WD hitch that will be in the 400# TW max range. You will need to tell them you have a 16" ball height camper and ground clearance of the WD hitch is a concern. If they are a Reese or Equal-I-zer dealer they may be able to provide one of the ones I linked. Same for the Husky or EAZ Lift. And you could ask, if you bring the WD hitch, can they mount it and adjust it? It is a somewhat common request as sometimes folks buy a used camper and a WD hitch comes with it. The new owners do not know how to set it up and the shops offer this set up service. Just ask and see what they say.

Also once the decision is made you really need one and which brand you want, there are a few things to check and make sure the right things are ordered. Some of those hitches need a tow ball added and they all need to be checked that the WD shank that comes with it is the correct drop length for your camper and truck.

Whatever happens, do not let someone install a 750# or 1,000# TW rated WD hitch on your small camper as that is what they have in house. They are too big for your small camper.

It sounds like you have some towing mirrors and a brake controller. Good, they will get you started and if in time you find you need an upgrade, it can come later. The biggest thing is what you have is setup correctly. The trailer shop should be able to help with the setup. Just let them know in advance.

On your 2nd LP tank, adding a 2nd 20# LP tank will add about 38# of gross weight to the camper and about ~ 35# will show up as loaded TW. (3# goes to the trailer axle as the tank is so close to the tow ball) There is the 20# of propane gas and then about 18# of steel cylinder.

Hope this helps and ask away on something that does not makes sense or you need a little more explanation on why.

John
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR - Fern Blue, 2004 T1950 - Fern Blue, 2004 T2475 - Nutmeg
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
JohnB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2018, 02:06 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
Thomascine's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Virginia
Posts: 638
SUN #8893
Thomascine is an unknown quantity at this point
Thanks JohnB.

I have read it 4 times so far and each time something sticks out that did not stick out before. This is totally new to me so it may take me a little bit to take it all in. I had to look up how to measure the rear overhang. I am a visual person so pictures help me. I printed it out and will get the measurement.

I appreciate all the time you put into explaining everything. Much appreciated!

Thanks,
Tommie


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________
1987 Sunline T1550
2002 GMC Envoy SLE, 4.2L I6, 4WD, 3.73 Axle Ratio, 5750 GVWR

"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones you did do..." Mark Twain]
Thomascine is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2018, 02:14 PM   #7
Moderator
 
JohnB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 9,385
SUN #89
JohnB is an unknown quantity at this point
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomascine View Post
On another note, I have a friend that is considering selling their 2000 Ford F150 Triton V8. It was the actual vehicle used to pick up the Sunny from Maryland and brought it back to VA. So much to consider.
HI Tommie, just a heads up.

A 2000 F150. They had 3 different sized engines pending which one in the F150 line up. A 4.2 V6, A 4.6 V8 and then the 5.4 V8. Do you know which one?

Also a caution not knowing the background of the truck. Your down south now and these things are a lot better than those us up north who live in the "rust belt". The salt on the roads in the winter up here do a job on older vehicles. Sometimes we are lucky and can get a used vehicle from down south up here, but not always. They are amazingly better.

An older vehicle that had to live in the rust belt for some part of its life can have a number of issues. Rusted brake lines, fuel lines, transmission lines, frames, rear axle dust shields, rear differential cover, fuel tank or pump and the list goes on...

Just being a little cautious to have it checked out by your local mechanic to give you an assessment. Even if you have to pay him to do it. Your friend may not even know as right now there are no issues. But the mechanic check can tell you things that need it now and may need in a year or so. I just had a good friend buy a used 2000 era 2500HD up north and what looked great on the outside, it was a problem underneath the truck...

The F150 could solve your WD hitch issue as pending which F150 it would not need a WD hitch. Hopefully it does not come with other issues through. Also if this will be your daily driver and you are going to sell your Envoy, none of those older trucks were great on fuel mileage. It will be worse then your Envoy. You buy theses older trucks for work, and not a lot of daily pleasure. I know, I have a 2005 in the barn that is a beast of a tow vehicle, but it is not my daily driver any more...it has a drink'in problem.

Not trying to talk you out of your friends truck, just more to think through as you sort this out. I also do not know the mileage or condition of your Envoy. About 2 years ago, we rebuilt the entire front wheel drive (4 x 4) on my wifes 2003 Trailblazer (100K miles) along with a fuel pump rust out, fan clutch, rear axle oil seals. I'm glad we do our own work....

For your check list, on your Envoy before a lot of towing is done there are some checks that should be done to make sure all is in good shape. Towing seems to aggravate things sometimes. All oil fluid levels should be checked and added as needed. Engine, transmission, front 4 x 4 differential case, 4 x 4 transfer case, rear axle, power steering, brakes. The fan serpentine belt and brake pads are good to check also.

Pending how many miles and when the last time it was done, again in time, all those oils should be changed. Towing creates a lot of heat that is not normally there. For sure start out with them all topped off, but be thinking ahead in the future when was the last time all those oils where changed? While the engine gets changed often, the transmission and front and rear differential casing and transfer case do not.

Before I forget, I found last night in your Envoy truck manual (download from the web) on page 4-51 (the page before that towing chart you posted) it says this on the transmission.

Quote:
You should use THIRD (3) (or, as you need to, a lower gear) when towing a trailer. Operating your vehicle in THIRD (3) when towing a trailer will minimize heat buildup and extend the life of your transmission.
It seems the overdrive clutches in the smaller SUV's are not heavy enough to be used for towing so they have to put the truck in 3rd. It is common thing on smaller vehicles. Just pointing in out

Hope this helps

John
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR - Fern Blue, 2004 T1950 - Fern Blue, 2004 T2475 - Nutmeg
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
JohnB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2018, 02:31 PM   #8
Senior Member
 
Thomascine's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Virginia
Posts: 638
SUN #8893
Thomascine is an unknown quantity at this point
It’s actually Amy and she takes really good care of her vehicles. It is the V8 5.4 4x4. Old blue is what she calls it. I wouldn't be using it as a daily vehicle. I would keep my Envoy. I kinda like it. It took some getting use to after driving Escape for so long. It still sickens me of the work I put into the Escape (hitch, wire harness, brake controller pig tail, auxiliary transmission oil cooler) a lot of work and cussing but it just did not do well on inclines with the Sunny empty. Sold it to my son and his girlfriend so at least it is still in the family.

On the 3rd gear towing warning, yep saw that a while ago. Hopefully I won’t forget when I get behind the wheel.

TV maintenance - The brakes, terpentine belt, shocks, struts and transmission fluid change were done last year, not all at the same time but all last year. New tires and alignment in November 2016. Oil is change about every 3000 miles. I have done my best to make sure the Envoy is ready for the job. ? - Will the Envoy need an auxiliary transmission oil cooler or should there already be one installed?

Thanks,
Tommie


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________
Thomascine is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2018, 02:53 PM   #9
Moderator
 
JohnB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 9,385
SUN #89
JohnB is an unknown quantity at this point
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomascine View Post
. I am a visual person so pictures help me. I printed it out and will get the measurement.

I appreciate all the time you put into explaining everything. Much appreciated!

Thanks and glad to help Tommie,

On the pictures... next time, ask away if I have a pic, I most likely do. I forget to add sometimes. Here are some pics to add to our discussion to help explain better.

When we talk about a "round bar WD hitch" and how far down it hangs, see here.

This is on a fellow members T2499. This is a 18" tall ball height camper. See how far down at the hitch ball area the bottom of the hitch is. This is a Reese Round bar hitch.


Here is my neighbors EAZ Lift round bar hitch. His ball height is around 20". You can see there is a 6" wood block under the tongue jack to see as something to compare too. There is approx 7 " ground clearance on a 20" ball height camper.


Yours being a 16" ball height, that round bar hitch hanging down will not be very far from the ground.

See here now on trunnion bar hitches. The WD bars are closer to the frame.

This is an Equal-I-zer WD hitch. WD bars very close to the frame. Most all of the ones I linked will be close like this.


Here is a trunnion bar WD hitch on my flat bed trailer. This is a 18" ball height camper. You can see how far up the WD bars are in comparison of the first round bar WD hitches I posted above.


When I was talking about checking the WD shank length so it will get down far enough to your camper, see here mocked up on our old Trailblazer. All those holes you see in the hitch shank allow the hitch head go up and down the length as needed so we can tow a trailer level. Have to make sure the one buy will go low enough or high enough pending the setup. They sell all different length WD shanks.


I was helping them explain his setup and I just happen to have a Trailblazer in the garage.


Rear Overhang. See here on my camper/truck. In my case the rear overhang is 65" from rear axle to the tow ball. In your case, just go center of rear axle (rear tire) to the end of the 2" hitch box (pin box) on the truck reciever. I'll add the hitch part




Hope this helps

John
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR - Fern Blue, 2004 T1950 - Fern Blue, 2004 T2475 - Nutmeg
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
JohnB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2018, 03:40 PM   #10
Moderator
 
JohnB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 9,385
SUN #89
JohnB is an unknown quantity at this point
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomascine View Post

TV maintenance - The brakes, serpentine belt, shocks, struts and transmission fluid change were done last year, not all at the same time but all last year. New tires and alignment in November 2016. Oil is change about every 3000 miles. I have done my best to make sure the Envoy is ready for the job. ? - Will the Envoy need an auxiliary transmission oil cooler or should there already be one installed?
Good on the transmission change and the rest of the maintenance. Good for you!

A heads up though on the 4 x 4 parts. The front differential casing (axle) has been known to leak over time on these vintage vehicles. It caught me off guard. We had a noise in the front end that started. I thought for sure it was a wheel bearing. Nope... After much testing we concluded it had to be the front differential gear case and must of had a bearing going bad in side.

The truck all apart in the barn...


The differential gear housing coming out of the truck. The hex rusty fill plug is in the top of the housing at around 1:00 location


The inside.


Point is, that gearbox leaked itself out and we never had any oil marks on the garage floor. And after doing a web search, oh my goodness, there a lots of these repairs on the early 2000's vehicles. Many broke the gear casing when they froze up due to lack of oil. I was lucky, we caught it before it went totally dry.

To find that fill plug when it is in the vehicle... you can see it at the drivers side front wheel. Turn the front tires fully to the left. Using a flashlight you can see the fill plug. Then with a 1/2" drive real long socket extension and ratchet, the plug will come off. It locks up tight in the housing. That gear case now gets checked for oil every engine oil change. In the near future have yours checked along with the rear axle and the transfer case.

As a side line, we really lucked out. The differential gear case was not the noise... It did get totally rebuilt though and we dodged a bullet that would of left us stranded if and when it would let go. It ended up being a constant velocity joint on the 4 x 4 drive shafts to the front wheels. Naturally to change those parts, you do all new wheel bearings and drives shafts at the same time. The parts were costly. We had about $850 worth of parts in the repair. And that was with no labor.

Amy's truck. Cool! Sounds like she keeps it in top shape. Great!

On the Envoy and an Aux tranny cooler. Let me check around. I think when you get the factory towing package with the rear receiver, the aux cooler comes with it. I'll be back to you on this.

John
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR - Fern Blue, 2004 T1950 - Fern Blue, 2004 T2475 - Nutmeg
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
JohnB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2018, 07:29 PM   #11
Member
 
BenB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Ohio
Posts: 74
SUN #7990
BenB is an unknown quantity at this point
Here is what I found that may fill in some blanks.

I now own the above pictured Trailblazer and I am way to familiar with the trans cooler lines. Hopefully yours are in better shape if you live outside the salt belt, I had to replace mine due to rust through before winter, you may want to inspect yours. The exact point of failure on mine was close to the transmission the lines are sleeved with a heat sheild at that bend it rusted though. While the rest of the lines looked bad, but I think the water and salt collected under the sleeve and made that spot worse. At least GM was smart on these and used coated brake lines, mine are all in good shape. It would take more than one hand to count all the vehicles I have replaced rusted brake lines on.

That being said my TB doesnt not have and extra auxiliary cooler other than the standard one in the lower radiator tank. It does have a factory hitch and I couldn't find in my search that there was a "tow package" option. I had a co-worker who had a 2006 TB SS with the 6.0L V8 and it did not have an extra cooler, he added one. I am not sure if GM ever had one on this truck platform.

Adding an aux cooler can be done and the parts are not that expensive and shouldn't take too much labor for a good mechanic.


Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk
__________________

2006 Sunline T-264SR, 1998 Coleman Mesa
2002 Chevrolet Avalanche 2500, 8.1L, 4X4
DirecLink Brake Controller
BenB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-25-2018, 09:21 AM   #12
Moderator
 
JohnB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 9,385
SUN #89
JohnB is an unknown quantity at this point
Hi Tommie,

I searched also on your Envoy and everything I can find points to all Trailblazers and Envoys of the time came with the towing receiver and the 7 wire plug installed. And that the trans cooler portion only used the main radiator. I did not see this in official GM print, but there is no RPO code to add a towing package or receiver. Some folks have added an aftermarket trans cooler however the main radiator was supposed to cover the ability the truck had.

The only issue is they did not give the vehicle an actual transmission gage in the dash, so you can see that the trans pan temp really is on the transmission. They have a fault message if the transmission gets real hot but while that helps, it really is about late when it comes up. The 3/4 ton GM trucks do give you a real gage that works. But the 1/2 ton pickups and smaller never did. At least on the older ones. I do not know if the new ones have it even yet.

If someday you wanted to really know, I am fairly sure an OBD2 gage can be plugged in and it will display many of the system variables. Have to check the the GM code for trans temp is available. I added one of these OBD@ gages on my F350. While Ford does give you a gage in the dash, it is sort of useless... no graduated numbers and it had a time at temp feature to not be very live in data. I added a Scan Gage II https://www.scangauge.com/ and now I can see what is really happening. They sell them on Amazon and other places. You can install it yourself, it is just plug in. It can be cheaper in some cases then hiring out adding a hard wired trans temp sensor.

It plugs in under the dash in the OBD2 port and I can move it from truck to truck if wanted. I have it set for Trans Temp, Radiator Temp, Slip on the Torque Converter and HP. I have changed the Slip to be Volts after I had my alternator go out... They do not give a volt gage in the truck either... The HP one I changed too to RPM. You can change the 4 readings as you want. There are other brands too. Just this one would read the Ford transmission temp code. Not all will. They are useful if you do a lot of towing.





They are not a must have, but a nice to have. Like with anything camping, it seems the first 1 or 2 years of getting set up to RV you are always buying something... eventually it does slow down...

Hope this helps

John
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR - Fern Blue, 2004 T1950 - Fern Blue, 2004 T2475 - Nutmeg
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
JohnB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-25-2018, 08:48 PM   #13
Senior Member
 
Thomascine's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Virginia
Posts: 638
SUN #8893
Thomascine is an unknown quantity at this point
Thanks BenB and JohnB. I will plan to have an auxiliary transmission oil cooler installed in the Spring.

Thanks again,
Tommie
__________________
Thomascine is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2018, 07:26 AM   #14
Moderator
 
Sunline Fan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Michigan
Posts: 5,813
SUN #123
Sunline Fan is an unknown quantity at this point
I love my scangauge too. I used to have one in my daily as well, but since it was my dad's, he finally wanted it back lol. They aren't a must have, but you get addicted to it quick. It'll give you instant fuel economy numbers, so you can really pay attention to your driving style and make changes for better economy.
__________________

__________________
2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9461.2 (as of 10/01/16)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
Sunline Fan is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Towing a TT - Info for those new to Towing JohnB Towing and Tow Vehicles 21 05-31-2018 09:05 PM
Ballpark figure on towing, MPG while towing Photokit Towing and Tow Vehicles 21 01-01-2014 09:14 AM
2002 Solaris T-2363, Western NY, $7800 Bobo Classifieds Archive 5 06-19-2008 06:43 PM
Can I put 16" wheels on my 2002 T320SR? kendoo3 Modifications 8 08-21-2007 02:23 PM
2002 Solaris T-2753, West Chester, PA, $10,000 chuckjohnson66 Classifieds Archive 1 07-04-2007 11:00 AM



» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Sunline RV or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:37 PM.