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Old 06-16-2018, 07:57 PM   #41
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Updating this post, I bought 2 fenders from ICON Direct. The freight for 2 was the same as 1 so I have a spare.

This fender fit my camper. Icon PN FS2245 http://www.icondirect.com/sunline-ta...-skirt-fs2245/

It was hard sorting out from their online dimensions that this would fit my camper. They give the outside dimensions and what touches the camper is what really needs to be right. Since this fender was made to a fender someone sent them on their Sunline, Sunline may have tweaked the design slightly as time went on with this style fender. The differences are in the lower gold siding curve and the thickness of the lower part of the fender that has the last screw in it. I was able to trim slightly the new fender and it then fit well.

Here is how they are shipped. It came quick and in good shape.


Here is fitting it up. I used butyl tape to seal this to the camper, I did not get a pic of that but did want to mention it.


And here it is mounted. I used small stainless washers with stainless screws. The washers was to help spread the plastic stress out some to help not crack at the screws which does happen over the years. Also hand tighten the final torque. Do not use a drill clutch stop. Odds are high it will be too much torque. You can use the drill to get the screw close to touching, then hand tighten.


I also did a repair to the door trim parts as I could not find a door trim assembly to fit the camper. I did a separate post on this as it may help others fix their ABS parts. See here: http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f7...air-18665.html

So today I finished up this repair from the tire failure...




I skimmed over a lot of the fender and underbody repair process, if someone needs more on this let me know. I have a lot of pics of the process just have not uploaded them.

The new tires are doing well so far. I am up to a little over 500 miles and no complaints. There has been a fair amount of work and expene to recover from what a tire failure can do to a camper. I'm sure this would be in the $1,000's if I did not do the repair myself. (just the repair and not including the tires) A labor intensive repair and the parts that were bought were not cheap either.

Thanks for looking and learning with me.

John
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Old 06-18-2018, 08:25 AM   #42
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Looks great, John! Never would know you had the damage you did.

I know I can be a hoarder, but I'd plan to keep a piece of your old metal for color matching, if you ever would need to have paint matched in the future. Easy to take a cutoff piece rather than the whole trailer.
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Old 06-18-2018, 09:21 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunline Fan View Post
Looks great, John! Never would know you had the damage you did.

I know I can be a hoarder, but I'd plan to keep a piece of your old metal for color matching, if you ever would need to have paint matched in the future. Easy to take a cutoff piece rather than the whole trailer.
Thanks Jon,

Yes, I have kept the beat up parts. I had to hammer them back into somewhat of a working shape to use as a template to cut the new ones.

Started like this


Then this


Then this


Test fit old


Test fit new


I'm glad Sunline used rough surface siding on the lower parts of the camper. It helps hide some of the imperfections that present themselves to the lower siding, (rock ding, hit something, something hit it...)

Will hang onto the parts at least until I no longer have the camper. That could be a long time...

Thanks

John
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Old 06-20-2018, 04:42 AM   #44
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Hi John
Sorry to hear about your tire luck. Glad everyone is ok.
I'm really surprised that the TPMs didn't pick anything unusual up. You would of thought the tire temperature would have gone high enough to give you a warning.
What to do. Can't trust tires much anymore, and now the TPMs are failing you.
You need to wear an orange triangle on your ass.

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Old 06-27-2018, 03:37 PM   #45
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Looks good John. You do nice work.

I have a pair of fender skirts coming from Icon Direct on Friday. Hopefully it will be an easy swap out. I’m going to wait until they come so I will be sure to get the proper stainless screws. I assume you used #8’s?
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Old 06-27-2018, 08:22 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jim44646 View Post
Hi John
Sorry to hear about your tire luck. Glad everyone is ok.
I'm really surprised that the TPMs didn't pick anything unusual up. You would of thought the tire temperature would have gone high enough to give you a warning.
Hi Jim,

Sorry, I just saw your post.

The failure I had is the "one" type that a TPM would not sense beforehand.

I was looking often at the tire temps and the pressure. Both were normal. In this case, the outer tread separated from the tire underway. There was no heat build up as the pressure was at 80psi cold at the start of the trip and even rose above 80 once a few miles were underway. Which 80 psi is what these LT E load range tires have. Since they were not under inflated, I did not get high heat from them. And since the pressure was above the low limit fault setpoint, I did not get a low or high pressure alarm either.

This was an instantaneous separation of the tread underway. No slow pressure decay or large temperature rise that the TPM was made to find for many of the tire problems. A tire spin test at the start of the season would of showed the problem. This damage I am fairly sure was their last year, just not to the extent this spring. Live and learn, do the out of round spin test....
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Old 06-27-2018, 08:27 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnybgood View Post
Looks good John. You do nice work.

I have a pair of fender skirts coming from Icon Direct on Friday. Hopefully it will be an easy swap out. I’m going to wait until they come so I will be sure to get the proper stainless screws. I assume you used #8’s?
Hi John,

Thanks for the good words.

The screws, yes they are no. 8's is what Sunline used and I replaced them with. Can use 1" long or 1 1/2" long. I have a boat load of 8 x 1 1/2" lg so used them in the wood areas except the lower gold siding on mine as there is nothing behind it on the slide campers. Just sheet metal. The non slides have the floor outer frame at the bottom of the gold siding in the years they were gold on the bottom.

No, 10's will work too if you have them. No. 6 is too small in my opinion.

Let us know how yours comes out.

Thanks

John
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Old 06-28-2018, 08:17 AM   #48
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John...what is a tire spin test? Heading out west again and our tires have close to 10,000 miles on them.
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Old 06-28-2018, 08:14 PM   #49
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John...what is a tire spin test? Heading out west again and our tires have close to 10,000 miles on them.
Hi Pam,

With 10K miles on your trailer tires, and your heading out again to gain maybe that much more, a spin test could help.

In your case you have a single axle so the same tire damage that happens often on tandem or triple axle is not as agarvated. The tandem and triple axle really scrub hard in turns and this can aggravate certain tire damage.

But to your direct question, what is and how to do a tire inspection and a spin test? This link will take you to Tireman9's blog where he talks about tire inspection and the spin test. RV Tire Safety: How do I inspect my tires? There is even a pic in the spin test area of my failed Denman ST tire he cut up and inspected for me several years ago.

I will add some more of my own findings here. See this post of mine which shows more pics of me doing a spin test along with a video. Scroll down in this link to where pics of tires show up. The spin test is there on my last failure. I found that internal damage by doing the spin test.
http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f7...tml#post143469

Here are the basics of a spin test.

What are you trying to accomplish? A spin test checks the tire for not spinning true round. Tires when made new are very accurate out of the tire mold and should spin perfectly round. A tire that has internal damage starts failing internal to the tire just like it sounds and you can see it when the damage gets large enough if you go looking. This means a tire will not spin true round anymore and that's a problem. A tire in this failing out of round condition should be changed right then and there when you find it. It will fail, the unknown is when.

How do a spin test, simply?

First you will need to safely jack up the camper or have other means to get one tire off the ground so you can spin it by hand. On multiple axle campers, you can drive up on a ramp where one tire is on a ramp to have the other hang free or jack up the camper. On a single camper you have to jack up one side of the camper or if you have enough equipment, both sides at the same time. Ideally lift the camper to have the tire off the ground on a flat hard surface area. Concrete, black top etc. This hard flat surface makes the process easier. The tire only needs to be just enough off the ground to be able to spin by hand and a little more clearance (1/8" to 1/4" clearance).

When the tire can be spun by hand, you are looking for 2 directions of out of round.

The tire tread spin direction. This direction is the normal running direction where the tread touches the road. Like this


Find a sharp edged board or other object that you can place across the face of the tire tread. This sharp edge needs to come almost in contact with the tire face. If it touches the block can move. If it is "just" missing the tread face the tire can spin and not kick the block.

Mark the outside of the tire where you are starting with a piece of chalk or marker or use the tire valve as the starting point.

By hand slowly spin the tire and look at the very close gap from the sharp edge to the tire face. That small gap should stay the same for a complete turn. A flashlight can help sometimes light up the gap.

If the tire has a "bump" or "hump" sticking out of the tread it will hit the block and tumble it. Once you find that spot you have to move the block away to just about touch/clear the high spot. Once past the hump, the gap will be a lot larger to the tread. Look at that new gap as it should stay the same until the hump comes around again where it almost touches. Mark the areas of the hump and retry and confirm the problem. That hump area is the start of a tire failure.

Here is the harder part, how much hump is it before I have to change the tire? I do not have lots a data to state what the minimum hump is. However I can safely say if you have 1/8" hump or larger that is a problem. Even 1/16" hump that comes and goes as the tire spins tells a story.

If the hump happens to be close to 180 degrees of the tire, it is not beyond impossible the tire was mounted to the rim wrong or the rim is bent the hump can be any part of 180 degrees. If this happens, it will take more investigation to tell if the rim is bent. Or the tire is mounted grossly wrong. Using the wood sharp edge block as a "feeler" you can point the edge to the rim OD and spin the rim to see if the rim is rounding out of round. Same for a grossly mounted wrong tire. Just point to a circular feature on the side wall of the tire. It should follow the rim for roundness.

Side wall bulges. This is the other direction for the inside and outside side wall of the tire. Put a large block of wood or other object up against the sidewall and spin the tire. If the black moves away and the gap increases in a certain spot then the side wall may have a bulge starting. Repeat to do the inside and outside side wall.

Again a bent rim can create an out of round spinning test of the side wall. Check the metal rim itself to see if it spins true using the feeler method talked about above.

This pic shows a side wall spin test.


If Steve needs help in sorting this out, feel free to have him reach out to me.

Hope this helps and have a good trip.

John
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Old 06-28-2018, 08:56 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by johnnybgood View Post
They are Hankook Dynapro HT
235/65R16C

Apparently a fairly odd size.

Those are "Euro-Metric" commercial tires Like our LT.


have you confirmed the actual load on the tires on your trailer? What are the scale numbers?

What about the load capacity of the tires?


Sometimes checking the tire pressure can result in the valve core getting stuck poen. Do uou have metal valve caps with internal "O" rings?


Lots of stuff in my blog on Trailer application.


TPMS will not warn about tread separations which is what you had. I cover, with video, how to do a "Free Spin" inspection that all trailer owners should do annually or every 2,000 miles which ever is first.


You can check my blog for my email and we can communicate faster that way if needed.


What was the original tire size on the RV?
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Old 06-29-2018, 07:22 AM   #51
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John,

Thanks for this post. I will do the spin test as you describe. I did not realize this was something a backyard mechanic can do. With only 2 tires between me and disaster I need to do everything I can to make sure they are good.

Thanks again,

Steve
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