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Old 02-08-2010, 11:07 AM   #1
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This hitch looks ideal

Anyone familiar with this Husky WD hitch/sway control? It looks like it ought to be a winner.

http://www.go-rv.com/coast/do/catalo...42&pageNum=428

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Old 02-08-2010, 01:06 PM   #2
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I first of heard of this hitch at the Buttonwood M&G last year where Husky put a brochure into the bag of freebies.

I too thought it merited a second look, but I've been very satisfied with the Equal-i-zer. The Reese DC and Equal-i-zer are what most members are using because they have been around the longest time. I am not aware of anyone that has this hitch. I would suggest carefully comparing the features and construction to Reese and Equal-i-zer as they are known high quality and high performance products.

I'd like to know how the compression cylinder is constructed and if it is leak proof. Reese and Equal-i-zer are purely mechanical and in theory nothing can break or disable the system.

Henry
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Old 02-09-2010, 08:52 AM   #3
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It's an interesting looking hitch, but I'm completely happy with our Reese DC hitch so I'd have no reason to look elsewhere. I'd be interested to know what is in the cylinder to provide that much pressure to control the sway. I'm not an engineer, but it would seem to me that the cylinder would have to exert an immense amount of pressure on the trunnion from that location to control any sway. I'm not knocking the product in any way, I'd just be interested to know.
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Old 02-09-2010, 09:47 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2beagles
I'm not knocking the product in any way, I'd just be interested to know.
Me, too. I'm going to an RV show this weekend in Richmond and will be doing some comparison shopping.
A coupla guys over at RV.net gave it a ringing endorsement. Another was, as you, skeptical of those cylinders and was leery of a new product with no track record.
I guess the cylinders are either shock absorbers as on a car, or they house coiled springs.

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Old 02-09-2010, 11:46 AM   #5
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Do you happen to know how the price compares to the Reese HP Dual Cam or the Equalizer ? Just curious

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Old 02-09-2010, 01:45 PM   #6
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For my application - $743

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Old 02-09-2010, 04:40 PM   #7
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Old 02-09-2010, 06:57 PM   #8
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Teach, Coast is not the cheapest place to get something that you can get somewhere else. They are probably the first choice supplier for just about any RV dealer and most I've been in have a display of at least some Husky products. Buying most anything from an RV dealer elevates the price, but I've not been able to find another source for that hitch so it may be Coast got an exclusive; they're certainly big enough.

The link Mike gave you is the hitch I have, but I got it at RVSupplyWarehouse. Note that the Reese can be bought separately with or without DC sway control. The first item on this page is the complete package at $509 so you don't need to add the second item. The Equal-i-zer I have is the third item and that is also an all-in-one hitch with built in anti-sway. Click on each hitch to see the weight ratings and the higher prices for the heavier models. These are fair prices for both of these products.

I suspect you'll need the 1000 lb. model, but JohnB will be along eventually and can confirm that. You may need to upgrade your receiver to handle that weight.

Let us know if you are interested in Reese or Equal-i-zer as there are members that can point you in the right direction for a reliable supplier as well as help with the setup.

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Old 02-09-2010, 07:03 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by henryj
Teach, Coast is not the cheapest place to get something that you can get somewhere else. They are probably the first choice supplier for just about any RV dealer and most I've been in have a display of at least some Husky products. Buying most anything from an RV dealer elevates the price, but I've not been able to find another source for that hitch so it may be Coast got an exclusive; they're certainly big enough.
Henry,

I believe Husky Towing Products is a division of Coast Distribution. There may be a few places that can beat them on price, but I don't think it'll be as many as with other products not owned by Coast.

Jon
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Old 02-10-2010, 08:01 AM   #10
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Looking at the pictures, my feeble brain can't see how the Eual-i-zer prevents sway.
The cams on the Reese add to my confuzzion. I guess I need to see them in person. I was an auto mechanic for over 10 years, so with things mechanical, a look-see will do the trick.

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Old 02-10-2010, 12:05 PM   #11
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The Equal-i-zer has designed built-in friction not to be confused with the shock absorber type add on bars. The friction occurs at the metal to metal contact points where the wd bars rest on the A-frame brackets and where the wd bar pivot points are located on the hitch head. Friction is exerted by downward pressure as a result of weight transfer. In fact Equal-i-zer depends on a reasonable amount of weight transfer as a result of proper installation to enable this anti-sway feature. The theory is really very simple and the beauty of it is that it really does work. The bar/bracket contact is never greased, but the pivots on the hitch head are.

There are advantages and disadvantages to both Reese and Equal-i-zer although in the end they both have sway control far superior to any add on system that RV dealers often sell. Blue Ox also makes a superior product. I bought Equal-i-zer before I got to know JohnB . The DIY installation is simpler with no critical measuring and no holes drilled in the A-frame... and they have a better website... but I do give a bit of an edge to Reese DC for antisway.

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Old 02-10-2010, 03:57 PM   #12
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The Reese Dual Cam sway control uses the tongue weight of the trailer to prevent sway. There are detents at the end of each trunnion bar which rest on top of the round cams. Much of the tongue weight is pressing on these cams. When the trailer tries to sway from side to side, the system forces the detents to remain centered on the cam thus prevent sway from getting started.

Both the Reese DC and the Equalizer use the trailer weight passively to control sway. Both systems have the advantage of having all parts visible for inspection at all times.

The Husky system actually seems to use a centering force as does the Reese DC. Two springs (or whatever) pushing against each other to keep the tongue (and trailer) in a straight line.

The only thing that concerns me is that you can't see what is in the canister at the end of each trunnion bar. If whatever is in there breaks, you would not know it.
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Old 02-10-2010, 09:29 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by awellis3
Looking at the pictures, my feeble brain can't see how the Eual-i-zer prevents sway.
The cams on the Reese add to my confuzzion. I guess I need to see them in person. I was an auto mechanic for over 10 years, so with things mechanical, a look-see will do the trick.

Teach
Hi Teach

I see Steve and Henry posted here on this. Can you now visualize how these work?

If not I can do a pict – O - gram post pointing how each brand creates friction to help control the effects of sway acting on the TT and TV. It's late and I'm pooped from dealing with the snow or I would do it up tonight, but I can do up a post on Thursday if you would like. Let us know.

None of these hitches we are talking about here "prevent" sway. They act to stiffen the connection between the TT and the TV to help retard the force effects of a sway event having a negative impact on the TV/TT. They all use friction as there main element of operation. And since most are patented, they each have to create a different mouse trap to create the friction. Some do a better job then others in creating the friction force high enough to hold a particular TT and TV stable.

There are hitches that actually work to prevent sway from starting and they are in what we call high end hitches. They change the actual rear overhang problem associated with towing on the ball some 48 to 65” behind the rear axle. They actual go after the root cause of the problem of towing on the ball and change the mechanical principal. The brands of these hitches are The Hensley Arrow, the Propride Hitch and the Pullrite Hitch. All very good hitches and all have a level of things to work thru.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 02-11-2010, 06:41 AM   #14
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Anyone use a Pullrite hitch? The concept seems to make sense.
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Old 02-11-2010, 07:35 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Collins
The only thing that concerns me is that you can't see what is in the canister at the end of each trunnion bar. If whatever is in there breaks, you would not know it.
They're coiled springs in the cylinders.

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Old 02-11-2010, 10:52 PM   #16
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Hi Teach and others following along

See if this helps explain some of the basics on how these friction type hitches work. Like I mentioned earlier, due to patents each hitch manufacture had to come out with something new to compete against the next guy.

All of these 6 types of hitches use friction as a key element in creating a stiff connection at the tow ball. It cannot be too stiff or the TV could never make a turn or something would bend all up when you did turn. The TV plays a large role in the ability to hold against the effects of sway against the TT. Length, height and weight of the TT play a role in this too. The larger the TT, the larger the sway effect can be. None of these hitches are a fix all to sway. They are however a very important part of an anti sway program.

Since these are friction type hitches lets first talk a little bit about friction. There are 2 types of friction.

Static friction is where 2 objects are at rest and resisting forces acting upon both objects trying to move in relation to each other.

Kinetic friction is where the 2 objects still have friction between them, however the 2 objects are sliding in relation to one another.

The forces acting on a system in static friction build evenly until they reach a maximum breakaway amount of force, then we have sliding friction as the objects are now moving. The force to keep an object sliding is less then the breakaway force that broke the object free and into motion.

Next are a few things to realize in the world of friction. I’m going to quote a text book here:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Statics and Strength of Materials by Irving Levinson
From a practical point of view, three laws describe the retarding force of friction. These laws state that when one solid object slides over another the frictional force is:

1. Proportional to the pressure force between the bodies
2. Independent of the area of contact
3. Independent of the sliding velocity
And there is a simple formula used to determine the forces which is:

Coefficient of Static friction = Force (max)/ Normal force

Or in simpler to understand terms, The coefficient of static friction between 2 objects X the force holding (Normal Force) an object at rest is = to the amount of force to breakaway and start sliding (Force (Max).

OK so what does all that means in regards to a sway control part of a WD hitch ? Simply that to prevent 2 parts from sliding against each other you either have to increase the coefficient of friction between the 2 parts OR increase the amount of force holding the 2 parts together. By either change it will increase the breakaway force between the 2 parts before sliding friction starts to occur. By changing one or both we can change the holding power of these anti sway hitches. Also to note, each principal employed creates a different level of friction and therefore holding power against the effects of sway.

Alright enough of this star wars stuff…. I get accused of that some times… . Lets look at some hitches

Here is the basic: A friction sway bar. It creates a stiff sliding bar on the side of the hitch to stiffen up the pivot connection between the TV and the TT. It is a brake lining type material pad being squeezed by a clamp bolt against a plated steel bar. Standard Brake material against steel is approx. 0.4 for a static coefficient of friction. That stays constant and you tighten the screw clamp to gain more force. You can add up to 2 sway bars, one on each side to make the TT,TV connection stiffer. The force is limited by how tight you can crank the screw. The friction sway bar has been around a long time and many hitch manufactures make them. Husky, EAZ lift, Reese, Drawtite to name only a few.


Here is fairly new product on the market by Reese. This came out we believe to compete against Equal-I-zer made by Progress Mfg. It is called the Reese SC hitch. Here they have installed brake pad material under the WD bar. This may be higher friction material then standard brake lining. It might be 0.4 or maybe up to 0.6 for a Coef of friction against steel. The force here comes from the hitch performing WD and can get quite high when the tongue weights are high. There are 2 pads one on each L bracket on each side of the hitch. Reese claims there are 4 more points of friction in the hitch head by the trunnion lugs pivoting. I think this is marketing hype. The tow ball also provides friction…


The next we have the Blue OX Sway Pro hitch. This hitch uses metal on metal coef of friction which is 0.8 for mild steel with no grease. Grease derates it to 0.05 to 0.1. The force comes from tightening up the trunnion pivot bolts and the WD bars pulling up on the hitch head. The more tongue weight and WD tension, the more friction can be generated in the hitch head to create a stiff connection. They also use WD bar chain guards to help hold the WD bar from swinging which reduces some effects of sway with this design.


Next we have the Equal-I-zer made by Progress Mfg. This hitch uses metal on metal coef of friction which is 0.8 for mild steel with no grease. Grease derates it to 0.05 to 0.1. The force comes from tightening up the trunnion pivot bolts and the WD bars pulling up on the hitch head like the Blue Ox. Don't know who copied who. However it has the added benefit of more friction being generated by metal on metal at the L brackets. They have true 4 points of friction generations. Here higher tongue weights and WD create higher friction forces and a much stiffer TV to TT connection.


Here we have the new Husky Centerline hitch. This hitch uses metal on metal coef of friction which is 0.8 for mild steel with no grease at the L brackets like the Equal-I-zer does. This friction force increases with tongue weight and WD adjustments. They also include a spring loaded force against a blunt surface of the WD bar trunnion. When the WD bar pivots it is met by resistance of the spring. I have no values on the spring force to help sort out how effective that is in resisting sway forces. And I can’t seem to find a different spring pack per hitch size. Just larger WD bars according to the parts list. So from a 500 to 1,400# hitch it seems to use the same spring system.


Next we have the Reese Dual cam. This hitch uses metal on metal coef of friction which is 0.8 for mild steel with no grease. It has V shaped WD bar that rests on a cam lobe where the friction is created. This one has a different twist to it. We have a constant friction holding force when the TV, cam and WD are in the straight ahead position. As sway forces act on the side of the camper and push on the hitch, the WD bar raises up on the cam. This raising up generates more force and then applies more holding force the higher up the cam it goes. It helps compensate for the loose due to sliding friction. None of the other hitches above have this feature. There friction is constant and once it turns into sliding friction the holding force starts to go down slightly where the DC force goes up. The holding force does rise with higher tongue weights and WD settings. Due to the cam feature the WD bar has to push uphill so to speak agasint the cam which adds higher degree of force until the breakaway point is reached then a flat sliding WD bar agasint a flat L bracket.



You can see the cam and WD shape in this pic as I was explaining how to adjust the cam


Also to not loose track of is dirt, grease, snow, and rain. Any of those can change the Coef of friction between the 2 mating surfaces. We get exposed to many of these and more while towing.

The key in all this is, which hitch can produce the higher friction to be the most effective? The Reese DC and the Equal-I-zer are very close to each other from my point of view. Regardless of which hitch one has, the hitch must be set up correct to work the best it can. And there is no one perfect fits all in TT applications. The are pro’s and con’s to each. Also to remember the TV and TT play a large role in this. A 1 ton long bed crew cab Dually towing a T1550 Sunline is a lot different then a short wheel base 1/2 ton SUV towing a 32 foot heavy slide TT. The hitch cannot fix it all. The hard part is sorting out which hitch is good enough for your size TV and TT. None of these hitch manufactures will rate them like that.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 02-11-2010, 10:58 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB
Quote:
Originally Posted by Statics and Strength of Materials by Irving Levinson
From a practical point of view, three laws describe the retarding force of friction. These laws state that when one solid object slides over another the frictional force is:

1. Proportional to the pressure force between the bodies
2. Independent of the area of contact
3. Independent of the sliding velocity
John, this quote reminds me of my grandparents. Three of the four retired from Ford and two of the four retired from the metallurgical and materials analysis dept in the Sci Lab. My grandpa keeps telling me how he has all these books about metallurgy and that I should take some classes on it...
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Old 02-12-2010, 08:25 AM   #18
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Thanks, John, I got it now.
My take: 1) The Reese and the Husky hitches exert force to re-center the trailer (spring pack and bar trying to return to level and in the detent) but the Equal-i-zer doesn't.
2) Reese requires drilling the frame. The other two don't.
3) Once the Reese is set up the first time, it is good-to-go. The other two must have the friction points on the sway bar set each time you hook up.
4) Any friction point will wear eventually and loose its CoF value. The Reese is less susceptible to this and the Husky's washer stack can be serviced (but it still depends on friction at the WD bar).

Seems my decision will be between the Husky and the Reese. Going to a RV show today to do some pricing and haggling.

Oh, one more question: Why are the shanks so long? Seems as if the closer the ball is to the bumper, the better.

Thanks much for all the help,
Teach
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Old 02-12-2010, 11:42 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by awellis3

Seems my decision will be between the Husky and the Reese. Going to a RV show today to do some pricing and haggling.

Thanks much for all the help,
Teach
Teach, I'll type more later, you almost have it all but there are a few opinions yet to think thru. While your out haggling... look at the Equal-I-zer while your there. I would not drop it off the shopping list just yet.

And if you can do this and not have the thing fall on the floor from the display stand…. Don’t hurt yourself, Once the weight is off the unit, on the Husky grab the end of the WD bar back by the L bracket and pull it away from the side of the A frame like you are unhooking. This will compress the spring pack. Get a feel for how many pounds of force you are pulling at the end of the WD bar. 20#, 50# , 300#??? That will give us some idea of just how effective this centering device actually may or may not be. I have my doubts but have no spring values to confirm or deny.

More later

John
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Old 02-12-2010, 06:26 PM   #20
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A very good read, John. And I always thought those sway bars were more like shock absorbers; never looked at one up close I guess.

I would suggest moving, or just post it again, to the sticky on towing that is at the top of this forum. There's lots of information here for everyone that is then also easily accessible and especially for reference to new members.

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